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ROFL BOX

Burnt Ends
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Posts posted by ROFL BOX

  1. Did anyone notice the full front entrance was cleared back in an arc & the vid cuts out before he actually goes up & down any aisles? 

     

    Shit, if that's their gig, I should bring my 14.1 hh Paint in there & walk around.  Has an equal % chance of crapping on their floor, just like that Watusi.

  2. I'm thinking it's a 75% or better chance that you have a shingle color called "Weathered Wood".  All mfg.'s state to not mix differing lot #'s or production runs & I will bet you Bob Stoops pussy with BarrySwitzer's fingers stuck in it that the co. who installed your roof didn't save any leftovers from your prior job.

    Maybe whomever came out is doing you a solid with the repair price; either way, look @ the underside of the roof deck from the attic & you'll see where the new piece of wood is located & from the outside, you'll probably spot the new shingle.  It's really that simple.

    • Like 1
  3. Why not a cordless?  The beauty of never having to worry about cutting through (or nicking) the cord is a major benefit.

    I have the Milwaukee cordless in both M18 & the smaller M12 & use the hell out of them.  A few years prior to that, I got the DeWalt corded version; all are good options, IMO (& no, I never did damage the cord).

    Also, what's with the Rigid hate?  Provided you register it, the warranties are the best out there.

  4. Re: what Twice said about an air mattress, since you're car camping I'd go with an insulated pad  & put that on top of a roll up air mattress.  Maybe even layer that with one of the bulky / inexpensive square sleeping bags under you or a blanket you won't mind out in the camping environment.

  5. @deadshank is correct in his breakdown.

    Assuming the hole is no more than 4" x 4", you still should do it proper & cut back rafter to rafter (L to R) & then maybe a total vertical cut of 12".  I'd prob. go one step further & add a bonus 2x4 to each side of the existing truss so there's a bit more bite for the nails & it's stiff enough.

    The shingles should be removed probably 2 courses above the hole & saved where possible for reuse; remove shingles below the hole to facilitate the full 12" decking removal & replacement.

    The price Dead listed is also pretty accurate.  You're essentially buying 1/2 a day of labor + parts.

    Or, you could FlexSeal that shit & eventually it will end up on one of our FB roofing pages where we can ridicule you.

    • Like 1
  6. Real wood is actually easier to remove vs. Masonite because Maonite will fold up into smaller chunks whereas real wood comes off typically in longer pieces.  Bits of masonite will also come apart vs. larger splinters of wood.

     

    Not a great difference in time / effort, but I like real wood better on a demo.

     

    Your mileage may vary.

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