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Steel Shank

Burnt Ends
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Posts posted by Steel Shank

  1. Quote

    Looch: I think Scott Woodward is walking into a clown show in Baton rouge. I think he's fully eyes wide open more so than anyone would be. Which is even more just blows your mind that he left for that.  He knows exactly what's he walking into and still left. He knows what he walking into and it's a clown show. That's just frustrating.

    47 National Team Championships

    Men's Basketball (1) 
    1935*
    Boxing (1)**
    1949
    Football (3)* 
    1958, 2003, 2007
    Men's Golf (5)
    1940, 1942, 1947, 1955, 2015
    Men's Indoor Track (2)  
    2001, 2004
    Women's Indoor Track (11) 
    1987, 1989, 1991, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 2002, 2003, 2004
    Men's Outdoor Track (4) 
    1933, 1989, 1990, 2002
    Women's Outdoor Track (14) 
    1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 2000, 2003, 2008
    Baseball (6) 
    1991, 1993, 1996, 1997, 2000, 2009

    Overall NCAA-Sponsored Championships * (Division I only , through 2014-15 season)
    1. UCLA 112
    2. Stanford 107
    3. Southern Cal 100
    4. Oklahoma State 51
    5. Penn State 46
    t6. LSU 43
    t6. Texas 43
    t6. Arkansas  43

     

    If LSU is a clown show, what does that make aggy?

  2. On 4/13/2019 at 1:45 PM, Leamas said:

    I use different products at different stages and on different sections of the car. I've been washing and detailing cars for myself (mostly Hondas) and family members (also Hondas, but also a 5 series, an A4, an S5, and a Panamera) for around 9 years. I've modified what I've done by watching youtube and reading best practices on general car care and detailing-specific forums. Generally, I detail the interior of the car on one day (2-3 hours) and then tackle the exterior on another day (4 hours for a full detail every 3-4 months and brief 1.5-hour cleans every 4-6 weeks). I take my time and try to enjoy the process because I treat it as a hobby. Like most hobbies, it can be as expensive and time-consuming as I want it to be. Specialized tools and products make the work go faster and might improve the final results to some degree of noticeability, but they cost more and you certainly can get by with "generic" products. Short summaries of what I do are below.

    Stages

    1. Interior: vacuum, plastic and vinyl clean, leather seat clean, vacuum again, and windows clean.
    2. Exterior: wheels and tires clean, rinse, pre-soak, rinse, contact wash, rinse, contact dry, clay, rinse, wax, and finishing touches.

    Products List

           1. Interior:

    • Plastic and vinyl cleaner: Meguiars D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner diluted at 4:1
    • Leather seats cleaner: Chemical Guys SPI_103_16 Sprayable Leather Cleaner and Conditioner in One
    • Brush (seats): Chemical Guys Acc_S95 brush
    • Brush (everywhere else): Vinyl & Leather Scrub Brush and Detail Factory blue brush
    • Detailer: Meguiars D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax (despite the name, I use it as a detailer and not a wax)

           2. For wheels:

    • Cleaner: Meguiars D14301 diluted to 4:1 or 2:1 depending on the amount of filth
    • Inner wheel barrel: EZ Detail Brush Big
    • Face and spokes: Chemical Guys Acc_G09 short handle brush
    • Lug nuts: Detail Factory orange brush
    • Tire dressing: Meguiars D17001 Hyper Dressing diluted to 3:1 and a Meguiars foam applicator

           3. For the rest of the exterior:

    • Rinse: Ryobi 1600 psi electric pressure washer
    • Foam cannon: Dusichin foam cannon
    • Shampoo: Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash
    • Mitt: Meguiars Microfiber Wash Mitt (2)
    • Detailing Brush: Detail Factory orange brush
    • Clay: Meguiars Mirror Glaze Detailing Clay (Mild) C2000
    • Pre-wax: Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax
    • Wax: Meguiars G6107 white wax paste for my white car and Meguiars M2611 Mirror Glaze for cars of other colors
    • Quick Wax Spray: Meguiars G17516 Ultimate Quik Wax

    Comments

    For a long time, I used a garden hose when I washed at home and that worked fine. But my flow rate would be tied to what's available from the tap, which delivered water from a city-owned water supply through the water main at ~40-60 psi. The pressure washer is more efficient and saves on water consumption. The Ryobi uses 1.2 gallons per minute, which is close to what I would get using a low-pressure spray gun at the local self-service bay. The typical flow rate from my garden hose uses 20 gallons per minute. The greater your water pressure, the faster and more effective it'll be at blasting stuff off the car without your need to touch it.

    Cleaning the wheels takes time. Do it first to get it out of the way and to let the subsequent rinses remove any brake rust that gets on the car. Dress the tires at the end, if you want.

    The pre-soak is important to minimize swirls and marring that happen later on from all the times you have to wipe or buff the paint. I've used various foam cannons and this one has had acceptable results. I spray the foam from bottom to top because you want each panel to get a spread of clean soap. I rinse from top to bottom because you want the dirt to flow off the car. Sometimes, you're going to get swirls no matter how careful you were. If swirls appear, I use a pre-wax to fill in the swirls before I use the wax paste or spray. The pre-waxing and waxing take up a lot of time. I only apply the paste once every 3 months or so and I use the faster spray in-between. I have found no solution for the swirls on my gloss piano-black pillars.

    For the contact wash, I use two buckets: one for rinsing equipment and mitts and one for soap and water. I put a grid guard in each. I use one wash mitt for the top half of the car and a second mitt for the filthier lower half. Sometimes I use a sponge for bugs, fallout, or thick traffic film. I dip the brushes and mitts in shampoo before I make contact with the car to help agitate every little bit of dirt. I use the small detail brushes on and around emblems, badges, trim pieces, headlights, and small crevices (like vents). I have a brush for each part of the car, so I don't accidentally mix and cross contaminate them.

    I use a lot of towels. They come in so many brands that I don't remember which ones are good, but it probably doesn't matter so long as they are microfiber and you clean them after each wash. Also, I use different towels for the wheels, windows, seats, dash, and to buff off wax and other products, so it'd help to designate colored towels for different jobs.

    I haven't used a blower to dry. I plan ahead and sometimes take off a work day just to wash my car. I've never detailed the engine bay but would imagine it's not much different than a brush/spray job.

    You need to lighten the fuck up.

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