krevo

Fuck.

Another reason why I dont care for see thru casebacks. If you dont mind me asking, how much did they charge you to press fit a piece of sapphire into a steel ring?

Just heard that Seiko is officially discontinuing the SKX line of watches as of early this year. The plan on replacing them with a rebranded Seiko 5 line with 27 different model/colorways. That's a bummer. I've only got one but I'll probably pickup another midsize 013 before they start going up in price online.

L Majors in Tarrytown carries IWC

Got my 16610 serviced last week and picked it up on Friday. Feels great to have it back on the wrist.

Whoever negged me for this...fuck you. Were fucking garbage.

Can anyone bring me up to speed on the Tudor models that are being built with in house movements as opposed to ETAs? Seems like a lot of people are offloading their recent Tudors with ETA to get the same watch with the inhouse movement. I really want the blue Pelagos, and a Black Bay.

Zero sense of panic my ass. Everyone knows people are panicking. After watching that game on Saturday - I feel like we're taking another L this year just due to bad tackling.

Just saw you mentioning looking for a solar diver. That Citizen ProMaster solar model was on Amazon last week for $105 down from $160 or whatever it normally runs at. I picked one up.

There is a tool they use thats like a little press with rubber grommets on both sides (to fit the size of the crystal/gasket and the caseback. Crystals are usually just press fit with that tool. Should be a quick job.

I'm in the same boat. My 28 year old 16610 stopped working and I'm assuming its the mainspring, as the hairsprings usually last forever. It's completely original and I don't want to change anything on it - so I'm probably going to just have it serviced with a reputable watchmaker. I dont want the bracelet or case rebrushed/polished or really anything other than the repair.

How much did it run you? I remember it was like 300-500 back when I bought my watch. I've heard its now up to over a grand. I don't want a full service because I heard they'll replace my dial and stuff.

I honestly don't care if knocks Hurts out of the game. There would be nothing better than beating OU and with their starting QB on the sideline. Yes I'm petty as fuck.

https://imgur.com/a/R5nhJV6 is it visible from this link?

Its like this around the entire yard. Everywhere there is a border, the grass is dead 1-2ft back from it.

@cactusflinthead @Okie Lite in Zapata Need some help. My mom's got a half acre lot in an old neighborhood. Has St Augustine lawn with two massive legacy oaks in the backyard and multiple oaks in the front. There are landscaping beds all around the entire property. I go out today to look at her lawn and notice that the st aug is dying back from the perimeter of every inch of the yard. If there is a fence, a flowerbed border, a tree, etc - any "boundary" within the entire lawn there is no grass around. It almost looks like someone walked the entire perimeter of the yard with glyphosate and put it down heavy 3ft off the entire fenceline but I know for a fact that's not happening because they don't have a lawn service, pest control service, and my dad doesn't use anything like that in the lawn ever. In the middle of the lawn - the grass is actually pretty healthy and they keep it properly irrigated so it's growing pretty well still this late into the year. I'll update the thread with pics - but imagine a perfect 1-2ft border of dirt around the entire property line with healthy grass growing right up to the edge of it.

Bump.

Is such a thing even possible? Waiting lists for the Nautilus and Aquanaut are years. He either had a PP or an AP on the list of next watch to buy. Can't remember. Swear it was a Nautilus.

Should've bought the PP.

lmao

The first good rain we get in the next month - I'm going to aerate and put down about 2-3 yards of sand. It might look ugly for a bit as the bermuda growth slows but I'll be overseeding perennial rye anyway so.

where are you located? if in central texas - you've got at least another month of growing season left imho. I've heard the only time you don't want to sand level is within the dormant period but I'd bet with some of these hybrid bermudas it wouldn't matter if you did. I would aerate and then sand level at the same time but you don't have to. Masonry sand is best because it usually doesn't have any rock in it and its coarse. It's also cheaper for bigger loads than play sand.

Still sour as fuck from that loss Saturday. The secondary played poorly and the defensive play calling was bad in the most critical times. Don't understand how the fuck we didn't get into the end zone in those first 7-8 attempts but whatever. I feel like this game would've immediately put us in the spotlight if we had pulled it off. On a positive note - I'm still so happy we actually compete in big games against good teams vs how we would've performed in this game a few years back.

Have you ever tried the soil conditioning/wetting tablet sprayers they use for golf course greens and hard slopes that don't hold water? They sell them on Amazon and I've seen a few people trying them for localized dry spot to help at least keep the grass green and growing during drought conditions and in place of manual soil conditioning.

I think I kinda missed the mark on the lbs of nitro I was giving it via "spoon feeding" liquid applications. I've also got some areas that are just really problematic where the roots are still very shallow. I kind of stressed it this year in hopes the roots would seek out water but found the areas that struggled were hitting a barrier of rock about 2-3" beneath the soil. Seems like my only hope is continual biannual aeration, and humic/sand top dressings.