Just got back to Midland from our trip to Ireland. Had a great time, drank way too much, etc. Had surprisingly warm weather for the entire trip, only really rained once while in Galway. We were actually slightly disappointed the weather wasn't a bit more typical since we were really looking forward to avoiding the Texas heat, but it's hard to complain about 75 and sunny even if the pubs are a bit stuffy at that temp. A few deviations from the itinerary that I posted up above, including spending first night south of Dublin in the Glendalough region which was really cool. Some favorite moments and recommendations below, as well as a few things that weren't quite what we hoped.
1) Galway was an absolute blast. What a fun town. My favorite night of the trip was the night it rained as we were wandering around down by the river so we ran over to the Crane pub and found an unbelievable trad music session upstairs with about 15 locals playing. Not touristy, just the real deal. We stayed in an apartment a block away from all of the action.
2) Probably a tie for our favorite night was seeing LCD Soundsystem at Malahide Castle north of Dublin. Took the DART train from the city center (very easy), stopped in Malahide (which is a cute little town) for some nice seafood before the show, then walked over to the castle grounds. Weather was gloriously sunny, upper 60s with a light cool breeze, grass was green and comfortable, shitters were clean and well maintained, they had people patrolling the grounds picking up trash. If ACL Fest was like this, I'd go more often. Just an all around perfect evening with, as James Murphy said, "the longest fucking sunset I've ever seen."
3) Driving was an experience. Took me 24 hours to get used to it, but was fine after that. The roads are shockingly narrow when out in the countryside and in the older parts of the cities. Driving in Cork on many streets that were two way but were narrower than any one way street I've seen in the States was interesting to say the least, but I figured it out and grew to enjoy it. My wife was stressed out with the roads though and she really didn't enjoy our driving days. Traffic jams in the middle of nowhere due to tractors and sheep crossing are a real thing.
4) Stayed at an AirBNB above the Dame Tavern in Dublin (right across the lane from the more famous Stags Head Pub) and really enjoyed that experience. The Dame wasn't too touristy, more of a locals old man pub, which we all loved. There was a large balcony/patio overlooking the Stags Head and the street below which was great for late night drinking as the pubs shut down. On summer weekends they have street concerts right out front which would be a lot of fun. Showers in the place were Irish "quirky" to say the least, but overall a fantastic stay.
5) Our biggest splurge stay of the trip was at the Pax Guest House in Dingle. Check out the pics and reviews on Tripadvisor, they're 100% accurate. Place is unbelievable, view is mindblowing, and the breakfasts can't be beat. Very impressive operation.
6) Dingle on the whole was a bit of a let down for me. We all enjoyed it, but it just felt overwhelmingly touristy to me and I just wanted to get away from all of the Americans by the time we left. I think I'd enjoy it more in the off season. That said, there are some really cool old pubs and great seafood here and we did have some good times. One of the best meals of the trip was a pretty pricey bowl of amazing seafood stew at Doyle's.
7) Favorite meal of the trip was probably a tie between the aforementioned seafood stew at Doyle's in Dingle and a ridiculous seafood feast at Klaw in Dublin. Klaw is a total hole in the wall, maybe 15 seats total. We crammed into a small table that was literally half hanging into the kitchen. You walk through the kitchen, barely skirting a very hot stove, grill and various boiling pots of seafood, to get to the bathroom (no way they could get away with this in the States). Their Dublin Bay prawns cracked in half and lightly grilled in some butter were mindblowing - one of the best things I've ever eaten.
😎 Made a fairly last minute decision to spend first night in Glendalough rather than Dublin and glad we did. It was a beautiful leisurely drive there through the Sally Gap on Old Military Road which helped me get my left-side driving legs under me and we enjoyed hiking around the national park.
9) Cliffs of Moher are indeed spectacular, but I could've done without the stop. It's one of those have to see it things, but after 15 minutes it's just some really impressive cliffs and we were ready to move on.
Happy to answer any questions that folks have. I may update this post with pics if I ever get around to uploading them.