Okie Lite in Zapata

Randy Lemmon, he must be one of those master gardeners who doesn't know shit about turf. That fertilizer schedule is wrong and is nothing but a waste of time and money. Heres your fertilizer basics.--Do not fertilize when the soil temp is below 60 degrees. Warm season grasses need to be close to 75% greened up and the lows at nigh staying above 60 degrees for fert. to be effective. Mid Feb and mid March are still to cool and there's no reason to fertilize 4 weeks apart. Also. if you have ever applied phosphorous or potassium your middle and last number on your bag, chances are you only need nitrogen, your first number. So if you have applied 10-20-10, 32-3-8 or 18-24-12 or anything in those areas you won't need anything but nitrogen. Ive seen hundreds of soil samples from all the OSU extensions and phos. and pot. stay in the soil for long periods. The herbicide schedule is close but wrong, . You need two apps of pre m at the start of the year. The apps should be 8 weeks apart and this is what's recommended by the chemical manufacturers. On the fungicides, just keep an eye on your shit and dont just apply them. These warm season grasses are hearty and generally dont need fungicides. Watering, water deep and infrequently. Water once or twice a week (depending on temp) and when you do, soak the fuck out of the grass 1-1.5" at a time. If you have irrigation have your last zone done cycling at sunrise or drag your hose around in the evenings and try to have it dry before sunset. Dont water at 9pm and have your turf wet all night, that can cause fungus and other diseases. From OKC to Austin, here's what most greens keepers, and weed control companys--Tru Green's, Scott's and most independent chemical applicators do. Here's a schedule company's dont want you to see or understand. Because if you did your yard would be pretty damn good and you might not need them. Theres a window of time to apply everything correctly but for DIy'ers here's some good general times/dates. This is a warm season turf (Bermuda, Tif, Zoysia, St Augustines) turf schedule. January 15th Preemergent and IF your grass is completely dormant and has weeds apply round up as needed to kill any winter weeds. March 15th Preemergent and a broad leaf herbicide killer as needed. No round up because you will be getting some green up in your turf. May 1st Fertilize a slow release high nitrogen 40-0-0 or 46-0-0 July 1st Fertilize a slow release 32 -0-0 or 28-0-0 with 5 or 10% FE September 15th Fertilizer a winterizer 5-0-20 October 15th Preemergent and a broad leaf herbicide as needed

Almost 5,000 yards in 3 seasons and he averaged a little over 9 yards per carry. Great numbers, glad we got him.

You can put a pre emergent down now and that will help control the summer annual weeds this spring/summer.

St Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia work well in semi shade areas but these grasses still need 4 or 5 hours a day of sunshine to thrive, at least that's in Zapata because I can not get any St Augustines to grow behind my shop and under my lemon/orange trees and this area gets 3-4 hours a day of sunshine. Anastasis mentioned large groupings of live oaks and deep shaded areas so my recommendations was for Fescue, I figured these areas he mentioned didn't get the minimal needed amount of sunshine for a shade tolerant, warm season grass to thrive.

I would not do a raised tree ring, wouldn't want the moisture up on the bark risking fungus, disease or insects. IMO on the patios/slabs, I would not do any building under the drip line of those oaks, that keeps the roots safe. You want something that looks nice and clean that only needs to be fucked with a few times a year. Thats going to be tough. One suggestion that I can make is a ground cover/Ivy. It would fill in the shaded areas and once it met the bermuda it would not invade. When it needed maintenance or got to tall you can mow the shit down. If you didn't want it climbing up the trees you could pull it off and I would keep it from climbing. Thats all I know for low maintenance and zero water that gets rid of the dirt under the trees. I have NEVER seen Zoysia live in the shade. Its stated as being shade tolerant but its not. Seen it dozens of times, save your money. Fescue is the only grass for the shade but like you said it burnt up in August. Did you water it everyday? It needs water every day when its over 100.

https://www.delish.com/cooking/recipe-ideas/a21630747/meatball-zucchini-boats-recipe/Meatball Zucchini Boats, these are damn good and different. We use the no sugar added Ragu Simply Pasta Sauce, theres still carbs from the tomatoes but used sparingly its ok. From the recipe/directions we changed from adding the Ragu in with the meatballs to putting it inside the boat along with filling up the boat with mozzarella, that allowed better carb control. Then we placed the meatballs on top the sauce/mozzarella and baked.

Yep, lots of winter weeds because of all the rain this fall, shit is breaking loose everywhere. Yes, the winter weeds will die off when it gets hot but by that time the warm season grass is greening up and getting choked out by the weeds, so the winter weeds finally burn up but your turf is weak where the winter weeds were and the summer weeds start kicking in. Weeds now aren't indicative of spring/summer weeds. However if its a wet spring and summer the weeds will be bad.

Pretty good stuff and can be bought at any Site One location also, Im pretty sure its Pendimethilin but the Lesco Pendi at Site One may have a little higher rate than the box stores and also has some fert in it so its pretty kick ass right now for any cool season grasses some may have.

October is usually a good month to apply the fall pre m but soil temps and location are very relevant also. Scotts is pendemethilin which is a good pre m but a pre m with Prodiamine/Barricade is a little more effective. The pendi should have been effective if applied correctly, not sure of the application rate on the bag but how many pounds did you apply and do you know the sq ft of the turf treated? You need to do 2 applications of pre m to control your summer weeds. You can do one now and then do another app in 8 weeks. Again location/soil temps matter. IF your turf is warm season and 100% dormant now you can hit it with some glyphosate and be done with the weeds. If your not 100% dormant there's other options to fry the winter weeds it just gets expensive.

Got a great RB out of Katy TX https://247sports.com/player/deondrick-glass-87041/

Agreed, fuck ou had the best O line they ever had and also caught a lot of breaks in 2018 with the Big 12 being down, besides Texas who drastically improved and WVU staying about the same from 2017 to 2018. ISU had a frosh QB We were way down at QB and receivers. ou caught Tech's starter injured. TCU QB injury. Obviously none of the above matters but they rode a good wave and won 4 close games by 7, 5, 1, and 3 points with arguably the best QB they ever had. Doubt they can replace a mayfield/murray anytime soon and I don't think their D will improve much. The Big 12 should be improved next year and ou could loose 2-4 games pretty easy in '19.

Don't forget, cars, booze, blow, hookers and clothes also get paid for.

Dudes in Norman, everything is paid there if you win. Hell, I'm sure he's got more $$ than his original signing bonus now.

Is the escalator pay determined if the recruiting classes are ranked higher? 🤔 Fuck Holder lol

Depending on your location, yes its time for a Pre em. If you have weeds popping now (winter weeds) you need a fall Pre em.

Is it to early for Big Game Riley?

Fuck ou, still hoping for a plane crash.

I agree on Ewok but there’s never been and never will be a dick Stoops doesn’t want in his bag or mouth.

He’s not going to take a hit for any reason. One big hit/sack and I think he folds.

Fuck yes

Defense has played their asses off the 2nd half. Offense has to get going.

GD it

That would be a dumb debate, have you ever been to SE Oklahoma?

I wonder how many 20+ yard runs we've had against us this year? Fuck.

Exactly, hoping Spencer is as advertised.