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Okie Lite in Zapata

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Everything posted by Okie Lite in Zapata

  1. Turnovers and shitty tackling, also piss poor play calls didn't help.
  2. Was that also not P.I.??
  3. How was that conclusive when the OSU players foot was blocking the view of the elbow?
  4. Stay with the call OSU ball
  5. 3 plays 55 yards, I really thought our defense might do better this game, WTF was I thinking. Hubbard is looking rested.
  6. I see it every day in warm season grasses in mature landscapes. Especially next to privacy fences with big trees in the yards, the problem is shade. Id like to see some images that are more at a distance but I'm pretty certain shade is the problem.
  7. God Damn what a shit show.
  8. Take that shit to politics you fucking cunt. This is football dick head.
  9. That's where your dick goes. Or tongue
  10. Your going to have to zoom in if you want identification. Looks like maybe nut sedge and I see some Dallis grass I think.
  11. I wouldn't use clippings or leafs they will break down and you will have a low spot that will need top soil. I would level with top soil now and plant your sod or seeds. Your late for your first pre m but go ahead and do one now, it will help some. Post some pics of your grass and we can tell you what it is.
  12. Bermuda is a lot hardier than St Augustines and will hold up better for your situation. Sure it's ok to seed those areas with Bermuda seed but when your sons soccer obsession fades IMO having 2 varieties of warm season grasses mixed together looks like shit.. If you choose to seed those areas, find hulled Bermuda grass seed and sow it an inch or so and keep it watered/moist, not saturated. Also you will want your night time temps staying above 60 before you plant.
  13. Not sure where in this country pre needs to be applied on January 15th. That is incorrect. Anywhere south of I 40 is pretty close. Summer weed seeds will germinate when the soil temp 2" down hits 55 degrees, very easy to get a few warmer/sunny days end of Jan or Feb and the soil temp busts 60 degrees. If your pre m is not down and watered in thoroughly you will get summer weeds. DFW soil temp hit 59 degrees on 2-4-19 and hit 62 on 2-6-19. January 15th was perfect timing from DFW to Austin.
  14. After a quick search from what i seen HD and LOW's are very expensive. I would order this one. Active ingredient Prodiamine and .58%, that's the highest rate I could find. https://www.pestrong.com/281-barricade-048-dg-prodiamine-granular-50-lbs.html
  15. All your warm season grasses are going to hold up very similar to most traffic.
  16. Theres a gardening thread ongoing here on the hobbies forum.
  17. Thats yellow slime mold, you guys must have had tons of rain. If it drys out and gets warm it will die, if not pull the shit up and throw it away. Its not harmful, great pics, I have never seen it that thick on any plant.
  18. Randy Lemmon, he must be one of those master gardeners who doesn't know shit about turf. That fertilizer schedule is wrong and is nothing but a waste of time and money. Heres your fertilizer basics.--Do not fertilize when the soil temp is below 60 degrees. Warm season grasses need to be close to 75% greened up and the lows at nigh staying above 60 degrees for fert. to be effective. Mid Feb and mid March are still to cool and there's no reason to fertilize 4 weeks apart. Also. if you have ever applied phosphorous or potassium your middle and last number on your bag, chances are you only need nitrogen, your first number. So if you have applied 10-20-10, 32-3-8 or 18-24-12 or anything in those areas you won't need anything but nitrogen. Ive seen hundreds of soil samples from all the OSU extensions and phos. and pot. stay in the soil for long periods. The herbicide schedule is close but wrong, . You need two apps of pre m at the start of the year. The apps should be 8 weeks apart and this is what's recommended by the chemical manufacturers. On the fungicides, just keep an eye on your shit and dont just apply them. These warm season grasses are hearty and generally dont need fungicides. Watering, water deep and infrequently. Water once or twice a week (depending on temp) and when you do, soak the fuck out of the grass 1-1.5" at a time. If you have irrigation have your last zone done cycling at sunrise or drag your hose around in the evenings and try to have it dry before sunset. Dont water at 9pm and have your turf wet all night, that can cause fungus and other diseases. From OKC to Austin, here's what most greens keepers, and weed control companys--Tru Green's, Scott's and most independent chemical applicators do. Here's a schedule company's dont want you to see or understand. Because if you did your yard would be pretty damn good and you might not need them. Theres a window of time to apply everything correctly but for DIy'ers here's some good general times/dates. This is a warm season turf (Bermuda, Tif, Zoysia, St Augustines) turf schedule. January 15th Preemergent and IF your grass is completely dormant and has weeds apply round up as needed to kill any winter weeds. March 15th Preemergent and a broad leaf herbicide killer as needed. No round up because you will be getting some green up in your turf. May 1st Fertilize a slow release high nitrogen 40-0-0 or 46-0-0 July 1st Fertilize a slow release 32 -0-0 or 28-0-0 with 5 or 10% FE September 15th Fertilizer a winterizer 5-0-20 October 15th Preemergent and a broad leaf herbicide as needed
  19. Almost 5,000 yards in 3 seasons and he averaged a little over 9 yards per carry. Great numbers, glad we got him.
  20. You can put a pre emergent down now and that will help control the summer annual weeds this spring/summer.
  21. St Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia work well in semi shade areas but these grasses still need 4 or 5 hours a day of sunshine to thrive, at least that's in Zapata because I can not get any St Augustines to grow behind my shop and under my lemon/orange trees and this area gets 3-4 hours a day of sunshine. Anastasis mentioned large groupings of live oaks and deep shaded areas so my recommendations was for Fescue, I figured these areas he mentioned didn't get the minimal needed amount of sunshine for a shade tolerant, warm season grass to thrive.
  22. I would not do a raised tree ring, wouldn't want the moisture up on the bark risking fungus, disease or insects. IMO on the patios/slabs, I would not do any building under the drip line of those oaks, that keeps the roots safe. You want something that looks nice and clean that only needs to be fucked with a few times a year. Thats going to be tough. One suggestion that I can make is a ground cover/Ivy. It would fill in the shaded areas and once it met the bermuda it would not invade. When it needed maintenance or got to tall you can mow the shit down. If you didn't want it climbing up the trees you could pull it off and I would keep it from climbing. Thats all I know for low maintenance and zero water that gets rid of the dirt under the trees. I have NEVER seen Zoysia live in the shade. Its stated as being shade tolerant but its not. Seen it dozens of times, save your money. Fescue is the only grass for the shade but like you said it burnt up in August. Did you water it everyday? It needs water every day when its over 100.
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