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Xminus6

Certifiably Surly
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Everything posted by Xminus6

  1. I've heard that fiber tape is actually worse for joints because it will flex enough along the joint to cause cracks since sheets will tend to shear along the joint rather than pull apart (which is where fiber tape is strongest). I thought it was mostly used for patches. I also don't like the texture fiber tape imparts. Sure you're going to mud over it but for beginners it'll likely transmit that crosshatch pattern through the final surface or might be exposed after sanding. Paper tape is also really cheap compared to fiber if you're doing a lot of sheets. I use fiber for patches and a huge cheap roll of paper tape for joints, not that I've hung many complete sheets in a while. I literally have the same roll of paper tape from when I re-drywalled my whole bedroom in my last house 10 years ago.
  2. You can definitely use a damp sponge to smooth it. But he’s better off just learning to use the knives to smooth it out. It’s easier and faster. Using a damp sponge is good when you’re trying to feather a patch into something like a textured surface. That’s the only time I’ve used a sponge. Here are the general steps: 1. Lay some mud in the joint before the tape. 2. Run the tape over the joint with the mud in it. Then scrape over that tape to embed it in the mud and squeeze the extra out from under it. Scrape that extra back into your pan. 3. Run a narrow strip of mud over that tape with a 4” knife. 4. Let that dry and then use progressively wider taping knives to apply multiple coats over the original. The way you feather the edges is to apply slightly more pressure to the side of the knife further away from the joint. So you want to leave the middle slightly higher than the outside. The way it looks smooth is to use thin coats and wider coats so the difference in height is spread out over a wider distance. After each coat dries you can scrape it down with a knife. 5. Sand. How many extra widths of knives you use is dependent on how smooth you want the finish to be. For a garage I’d just use a couple passes. Use a quickset mud for the first layer and to top the tape. Then use a smoother all-purpose mud for the successive coats. It’s easier to work, feather and sand.
  3. Oh, an FDM (extruded melted plastic) printer would be fine then. The most well-known reliable one out there now is the Prusa i3 Mk III. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/
  4. Prusa is close. I think something like the Dremel is probably a little more robust. If you need extreme detail but don't mind a small build volume you could look into SLA printers, which use a different process but print things that are incredibly detailed. You have to handle the emulsion carefully and clean the printed parts and cure them with UV/sunlight, but they print things in much more detail than FDM printers.
  5. Our public library has one too. I'm not sure how people would reasonable use that. To print anything of any size at all it takes hours. Can't imagine I'd go there and load up a file and just come back later in the day but I suppose it's nice to have in case. There are so many cheap ones available now that make it a pretty low-risk endeavor. The Monoprice Mini can be had usually for around $100. Slicers and CAD software are free. So you're only into it for the printer and filament.
  6. The funny thing with 3D printers: After unboxing it, the first thing you’ll print is a cat figurine. Then next 10 things you’ll print are objects to fix what’s wrong with your 3D printer.
  7. Creality are interesting because they do indeed give you a lot of machine for the money but the quality control is often not great. There are some general dangers involved when using a 3D printer because it has a heating element that draws a lot of current. I've only heard of a few fires caused by 3D printers, but there are true stories of them out there. I know some people who have CR10s and love them and honestly my Monoprice doesn't have the greatest QC either. There are also very robust machines that cost a lot more for smaller build volumes, but they're backed by well-known corporations and probably tested to Consumer Safety standards. Dremel has a 3D printer that they sell that's basically a RepRap clone. I will say, when your 3D printer is working, it feels like magic or a (slow) Replicator from Star Trek. But when things go wonky on them it's incredibly fucking frustrating. They haven't really reached the point of being like an appliance. There's always a chance that something gets messed up on your machine (clogged nozzle, bed gets warped or out of level, extruder gears stripping) then you'll feel like chucking the whole thing in the garbage.
  8. His mom looks like she's around the same height as Herman.
  9. They're not too terribly sensitive. The filament should be kept as dry as possible when not being used. So people keep the rolls in ziplock bags with desiccant or even put then in dehydraters if they've been out in the open for a while. Although I don't take many precautions with my filament and it's fine. Might be slightly better if I dry them out but it's not disastrous to have it sitting out. Places with more humidity may have more issues though. Depending on what type of plastic you're printing it may be beneficial to have a hotter ambient temperature. When printing ABS people will enclose or box their printers since ABS needs higher temps to prevent warping. For other plastics they can just be out in open air. You don't need to worry about a special table. They're generally pretty robust. The machines themselves benefit from bracing and rigidity but the table or surface isn't that important unless the printer is physically tilting while printing. It's more important that the printer itself is square, level and plumb than the surface it's sitting on. My other printer recommendation of someone is willing to jump right in is the Prusa Mk III. It's the Toyota Camry of 3D printers right now.
  10. Probably the easiest/cheapest way to get into it is with a Mini printer. Monoprice has a Mini version of my Maker Select Plus. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15365 You can find a refurb on their site or catch it on sale for less than $150 bucks usually. It’s the cheapest way to figure out if you’ll enjoy/need/use FDM 3D printing. Obviously it has a small build volume but it’s a fairly reliable and accessible first printer. The next step is to see if you want to learn to design your own parts using something like TinkerCAD or Fusion360. It’s relatively easy to pick up but it might take more time for people who aren’t familiar with design in general. You can also search for things/parts that you might find useful on sites like Thingiverse which is a free repository of 3D Object files that you can just upload and print. You’ll see a lot of reviews online of people printing little dolls and figurines and other shit like that. I tend to only print practical things, so I don’t find those reviews all that interesting. For instance, I just designed and built a dust collection adapter for my miter saw to connect to a shop vac hose. I’ve been doing small projects here and there with my printer over the past couple years but am considering upgrading to a much nicer printer with a large build area. Ask any questions you might have and I’ll do my best to answer them.
  11. True, Oregon has been cleaning up in the absence of USC, UCLA, and Cal.
  12. Yup. We should be dominating the Southwest. We're the closest "big football" school that's playing well. USC might count but they're horrible now and their game environment isn't comparable. We're also the closest cultural fit for kids from the Southwest. I think we're just starting to tap into the whole region effectively.
  13. I’ve got plenty of family that went to Ivies (3 to Harvard, 1 to Yale, 2 to Penn). I haven’t noticed it being some magic ticket to an upper echelon of society. A couple of them really struggled after school too. It’s not that different than other schools honestly.
  14. The Analyst job doesn't affect his buyout from his previous contract like a coaching position would.
  15. Why is the apostrophe after the 12?
  16. Yeah, his family realized that they had told them bald-faced lies during their recruitment.
  17. Pretty sure the guy is a Longhorn. On OB someone looked up his name in the alumni registry and it matches with the name of the police report. Fucking nut job.
  18. I live 50 miles from the stadium and I’m not even sure I’d go if someone gave me free tickets.
  19. Yes. I really like the Orange/White opposed lighting scheme. I think the graphics department deserves a lot of credit and budget going forward. I like the LED wall/ceiling setup as well but I hope they’re looking to constantly improve as other schools start to copy our graphics.
  20. Plus he'll probably bang McVay's wife.
  21. Two of my cousins were Tennis captains for Harvard. The sister is now married to Jim Courier.
  22. Mahico isn’t a Ketch sock. I’ve conversed with him pretty extensively about stuff in Hawaii. Plus, he’s shown videos of himself anyway and other folks have met up with him in Hawaii.
  23. God damn FSW, take some pride in your craft. The lighting card bouncing around constantly, The voiceover sounds like an AV club student in middle school. The repetitive music. Painful.
  24. I'm much further South and the smoke is very intense here as well.
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