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Correct but John Towers was a real piece of work. In WW2 the air advocates (both Army and Navy) were convinced that every weapon should be a plane and nothing else was needed.
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Had more fun this afternoon. Thought I would get a quick start on resealing the unit. My use of sealant earlier made removing the screws a huge issue. I am never putting them back in. I was VERY surprised I didn't round off the head on at least one of them and quickly ordered new ones. No way those will survive another removal with sealant. And I'm changing what I said above - there are are plenty of places to leak versus a sealed unit. The flange has six screws and then there is a compartment on the flange with four more. The compartment holds a resistor which measure the float level and they put a bolt thru the bottom that you add the wire to the gauge. Basically 11 points that could leak in addition to the two gaskets.
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Not so much a book about the Pacific war but Nimitz and his Admirals is excellent view of what Nimitz went thru directing the victory. He had lots of trouble with his air admirals thinking they were the only people fighting the war and of course with MacArthur
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Unfortunately no The British have their own methods and they don't use tangs. The sending unit is not a fuel pump but a float to send a signal to the fuel gauge. The fuel pump is behind the passenger seat. (In college I once drove home whacking it every few minutes for 200 miles). They just used old fashioned cork gaskets. Which actually work or the new fuel resistant viton gaskets. Which makes it frustrating since there are not many places to leak. I sealed the screw holes so I guess the next step is try again. The real issue is I can't really see where the leak is - so it is harder to repair.
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Not going to look it up but I think there is something in the retirement plan that makes this count as a full season
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No oil leaks - good news. bad news is I still have fuel leak around sending unit that started all this. Luckily I ordered new gaskets.
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BMW Owners used to do this and may still do it. Around 2001 I thought I had won an M5. They listed the first name and city. I had moved to Austin but they listed my first name and old city which caused me to jump around figuring out what city I listed for registration. Someone else in the old city got a nice car
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Got lucky. Just adding fully tightened lug nuts and no leaks overnight Sent windshield off to be replaced
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I may get lucky on the diff leak. Someone posted on the forum that the seals may not be seated yet. And that makes sense based on what I am seeing. The solution is to tighten the lug nuts on the brake drum. I had no leak until I put it on a jackstand and the tire rim has nothing inside it. Basically everything happened when the lug nut were removed. Going to tighten them back and see if anything leaks out for a few days before opening up the rear axle
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And horribad defense by Giants on the TD
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I'm happy with them but they have some red tape. They wouldn't go forward without a picture of the VIN. Old cars don't have it. I have a metal plate with a serial number held on with screws. I was like - you didn't need anything to prove the serial number when you issued the policy - so I could make up anything. I can also order a new plate with any serial number I want or just photoshop the existing one.
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Absolutely moved to single 12V and reversed polarity so negative is now the ground. Screw that "positive earth" junk.
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Absolutely. The leaks are minor and I can get to both easily. Really wondering why the rear diff did not leak until I raised that side of the car to work on fuel sending unit. It's been a while since I took physics but I think I remember fluid running downhill and away from where the leak it Windshield is not difficult but will be a real pain. There are L shaped brackets in each corner with screws behind the chrome. Those screws haven't been touched since 1962 so getting them out is fun. And (since I did this to my glass in early 1980's) if you put them back in and tighten too much you will hear a nice crack which tells you to order a new piece of glass. It's about 1200 for glass and labor and Haggerty is paying for it
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And of course I ran into some issues. It's a 63 year old British car. Amazingly the leaks never showed up when they had the car up north. They put over 200 miles before I picked it up and I have driven it since Labor Day. Noticed a small puddle. Gas. The seal around the gas gauge sending unit is weeping. Talked with the garage and then added more sealant so we will see. While looking at it saw another small puddle. Rear diff oil is also in play. They did all new seals but the quality of seals is lacking. Luckily it looks very easy to pull the rear and add some sealant around the gasket. The garage and I discussed a new windshield since the 60 year old one has a chip. Decided to call it patina and not worry. Last Friday morning heading to meet friends for breakfast. Just got on interstate and a random rock sees the car and KERPOW! Now need a new one. Luckily the windshield is very easy to remove from the support. Not easy to replace the glass. I did it back in college and will not do it again. Major pain to line up interior brackets and new glass. However Haggerty will pay for the garage that did the restoration to do the glass so sending the windshield back to them. GRRRR...
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Alabama Back-Stabbin' Thread of All-Conquering Glory
AUinHsv replied to RDCanecutter's topic in Cloak Room
Wonder if it will reach the levels of insanity if the 1986 election where courts ruled the second place finisher could be put on the ballot instead of the winner. That was the sane part of that campaign
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