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Everything posted by HoustonHorn
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BT is a very useful club for certain holes in tournaments. It goes an especially long way that most people don't realize. It has terrible accuracy, I think worse than the EM and you'll get where more holes need extra carry. But since you can carry 5 bags since you are in a Masters clan, I'd definitely keep it as one of the options.There aren't really any rules so if it works for you then definitely use it. In this tournament I use it on 3 and 9 for the distance. I've seen others use it on 1 as well. On it goes further than my TH6 because I can't go all out on the drive for to the bunkers. So in that instance I pick up a lot of distance using the BT. I use it on 3 also with my little account because my EM 4 doesn't go as far. Congrats on making the cut. Hopefully you play well in this round and make the weekend. Scores seem lower so will be interesting to see where the cut line falls. I have a - 21 on a brand new account with baby clubs (e.g. I haven't even gotten the BT yet) and a -25 on my alt account. I'm so close to getting drops on every hole that I hope I can get some in the weekend round and get to -28 or better. If I can get a Top 3 I'll move that account up to Pro. Haven't played my main account yet. If I get Top 10 I'm going to move up to Expert in tournaments with that account. I should probably be playing Expert in that account anyways but since I hadn't ever had a Top 10 until last tournament I didn't feel like I was ready.
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FYI, tournament chests can have quite a few cards if you make the weekend round. This week is the Summer Major which has increased prizes. Today is the last day for qualifying.
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No, you get cards from every tour. You only need to grind those tours to get the club in the first place. Stuck grinding T6 even though I've closed out through 7 trying to get a Thor's Hammer. It's frustrating.
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Yep. In my main account I get killed going to lower tires because it still knows my high trophy count (4250) and I play his in not familiar with against replays of great players. The holes are so easy that there are a lot of holes outs and you have to be really really close on shootouts. It's a pain in the ass.
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Watch the videos and spend a few bucks on the golf clash notebook (Android) or golf clash caddie app (ios). It's easier to learn now in the lower winds before you get to T8+. I have put together a bunch of helpful videos on Google sheets. Email me at HoustonHornGC@gmail.com and I'll send it to you. I also put a lot of tournament information in there like guides and walk through. Also, if you're thinking about joining our clan we can use the help. Currently 17th and the top 20 get promoted to Masters. Need all the points we can get. Also, anyone else interested in joining let me know. Fun team and good information /tips for improving.
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He'll yeah man, come join us. Laid back and we can use the points. We're in a dogfight to move up to Master I. Can use all the help we can get. If I can get my fake Facebook account reinstated I think I can give you some coins, if you Facebook. Anyways man, it's a streaky game. I go through the same swings. Got within a coyote wins if closing T10 then dropped all the way to 0. Finally closed it out, but it's nothing for me to be up or down 3-400 trophies in a day. It'll turn. Anyways, would love to have you on the team. BabaBooey!
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Regarding clubs. Driver Distance becomes increasingly important as you move through the tours as you will need to be able to reach Par 5s in two in 1v1 play. Most 1v1 ends in a birdie or eagle and not being able to reach the green is a big deal. So distance and topspin are very important. Secondarily, accuracy and curl are also important as the drives become more difficult. Ball Guide is 3rd so you don't have to guesstimate the roll out. Backspin is last, but can be important for tournaments and specific shootouts but is otherwise useless. The TH has the best backspin of the Top drivers and is very useful in certain situations. I use it instead of the Apoc as much as possible in T10 for one specific shootout hole that is about 50x easier with the TH than having to use a Sniper. Later tours the driver is used in a lot of shootouts (T11+). Wood Distance for the same reason as above. That's why the Sniper is pretty limited until it reaches level 7. There's just too many holes that require more distance for the second shot. However, from that point forward it will be your main wood because it has a great ball Guide. Topspin is also important in this consideration. After distance and ball guide, curl and backspin are also important to control longer shots. Accuracy is low priority, but the Sniper has a 100 rating so even misses have a chance of going in (mostly because the ball guide lets you know you are going to be near the hole and because you may be slightly off on your wind adjustment). Being around the hole a lot means you'll get more lucky drops with less than Perfect shots. Long Iron With the long iron, you want to be able to control the ball, so backspin is key along with the ball guide so you have a better idea of where it will stop. Distance is next because there's the potential (especially in lower level clubs) for there to be a significant gap between the wood and the long iron. Nothing more frustrating than not be able to put the target where you need it because there's a gap between your clubs. Curl and TS are nice, but not really that important except in limited uses such as rough bumps or to get around trees. Topspin is nice because you can hit rough bumps. Accuracy is not real important because putting is so easy, so if you make the right wind adjustment, you should be fine. It will impact shootouts if you don't hit perfect though. Short Iron Ball guide is the most important. You should have a shot at holing out with a short iron and knowing where the ball is going after applying spin is the most important thing. Backspin is second so you can control how far the ball rolls. If you have a lot of backspin, you may be able to spin back into the hole if there isn't enough green before the pin to land and roll to the hole and trying to judge backspin perfectly so that it is rolling perfectly at the hole can be tough. Usually I try to play 1-2 BS with the ball guide on a thorn about 1 square short of the hole. IF there isn't a lot of room to roll out (pin is on the front of the green), then you have to judge the spin so that the ball doesn't just stop too quickly short or alternatively be bouncing as it reaches the hole reducing the chance of it going in. Accuracy is very nice to have because if you are slightly off on your adjustment and hit a non-perfect shot, you might have a chance to go in because the ball won't be too far off line. TS is good so you can hit rough bumps - this is where the Thorn falls a little short at lower levels and you may need to switch to a Hornet for the extra TS in some cases. Curl is basically useless. Wedge Ball Guide, Ball Guide, Ball Guide. I'll repeat it again. The ball guide is far and away the most important attribute by a mile. Topspin is good so you can get the ball on the ground while chipping and avoid the wind as much as possible. Accuracy is about the same as Topspin as far as importance. You will miss perfect on some chips and having high accuracy means those shots may still go in. BS is nice to have but really not too necessary except for some specific downhill/side hill chips. Distance is useless and curl is less than that. Rough Iron Distance (and TS) is critical. You will need it to get back into a hole if your drive is in the rough. TS increases distance and also still allows you to hit rough bump shots. Backspin is good for controlling the ball after it lands and Ball guide so you know where its going. Accuracy is good to have because you will not hit perfect most of the time, especially if you are over powering. So it limits damage in that respect. It's also less important than the other factors because for chipping because even at the highest levels, you are most likely going to miss the chip if you don't hit perfect. Curl is good because you are off line and you may need to curl in order to go down the fairway instead of across it or to avoid trees. Sand Iron See Rough Iron. Basically the same. Distance is a little less important (until you get the spitfire) because on a lot of holes, you won't be able to get close to the green if your drive goes into the sand. So in a lot of cases you are just trying to get where you have a wedge/short iron to maximize your chance of holing out a longer chip and/or short shot. Backspin is a little less useful as well but nice to have. It's probably behind accuracy though because the swing meter is going much faster so the more accuracy, the less off line you will be if you hit good or great. Curl is the same as the rough iron - helps you keep in the fairway when you may be hitting "across" the fairway. Obviously not all the clubs have everything, so you have to pick and choose what best suits your game and the courses you are playing. If you struggle hitting perfect or single greats (just slight off perfect), then accuracy may be more important until you get that aspect more consistent. For me ball guide is really the most critical aspect although there are a few instances (like the Goliath over the Grizzly) where I make exceptions. I'll probably start using the Grizzly more once I am off T10 because I use it for a couple of the shootouts and depending on the ball, the Grizzly just doesn't have enough distance to hit the shots.
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As an aside, I posted my first -30 in tournaments this week. Finished 2nd in rookie and 7th in Pro. Shot - 30 in both.
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Club accuracy from the rough iron and sand edge is a little overrated really. It probably isn't going unless you hit perfect in which case accuracy doesn't matter. Ball guide is more important because it let's you know where the ball is going if you hit perfect. Distance from the sand keeps you in holes from fairway bunkers. Same with the rough. Otherwise you are kind of guessing. With EM, the lack of accuracy can hurt you. But I found that my accuracy improved a lot once I knew how to adjust for the wind, especially in T6+. Then you at least know you are aimed properly and can minimize the chance to hit in the rough even with a "great" shot. I'll try to list out the best attributes for each type of club in another post.
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I say this based on the following. From my alt account. Malibu has better distance and better accuracy. Top spin is OK, but really it isn't going to make up the difference in the distance. Until you get the Spitfire, you are likely out of the hole if you hit in a fairway bunker. Accuracy is what it is. If you don't hit perfect, you aren't going to go in the hole and who cares if you miss by and inch or 6 inches. This can change some with later clubs but since I want a SW to save from censor bullets I want ball guide. Malibu is the clear winner. Firefly is a pretty good club at low levels and will be fine until you get the Rapier or Endbringer. That's what I use right now. You will need to switch to the Thorn at some point to get backspin. Topspin is great for wedges but becomes less useful with the short irons unless you are playing a rough bump. Stay in the fairway first and foremost. But you need to work on hitting perfect. You will have to learn how to hit the EM because you're going to need the distance. I used the reaper for a while and just switched to the BB level 8, lvl 9. It's a good club until you get the Grizzly/Goliath leveled up.
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Houston is the Home of Texas' First Drive-Thru Strip Club
HoustonHorn replied to Vic Mackey's topic in Lulz
Least surprising news ever? -
Fud, where you at man? Busy?
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I don't know man. I just tested it out on some matches and I can't discern a difference. If you can record your screen and show it I would consider asking Play Demic about it. I was in T6 for all of the shots. The different meter speeds in the different tours is the only thing I can think of as changing the speed.
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Different balls also vibrate more or less in overpower.
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Pretty sure that's not the case. Searched and the most thorough answer on reddit golf clash says no. The swing practice on golf clash notebook doesn't differentiate by tires if the same club. But different club types vary and the tour you are playing on makes it vary. Higher tours are faster. The penalty for missing is impacted though. Overpower makes it go faster and swing wider. Different balls go different speeds as well.
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Are you talking about the swing arrow? Accuracy doesn't have anything to do with the speed of the meter. It affects the size of the rings in the target. Now if you miss Perfect, then it won't miss by as much because a single great right is about a ring, double great right is 2 rings, good is crap. So accuracy only matters if you don't hit perfect. The ball you use and the overpay can affect the swing arrow speed. But not accuracy.
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Pretty solid list. A lot of the decisions rest on which club cards you are getting. The Hornet is fine for a short iron compared to the Thorn, but eventually you'll move to the Thorn. The Firefly is a very good club for chipping and if you get cards is definitely a good go between from the Dart to the EndBringer. Horizon and Guardian both can be extremely useful in tournaments. Goliath is a great club because of the distance. There can be a gap between your wood and your shorter Long Iron which makes it difficult to hit shots because neither club hits it into that "red" zone. The Goliath solves that issue. Its really between it and the Grizzly for longer term use. I have been using the Goliath for a long time now. About to switch to the Grizzly for the ball guide. My B52 is getting leveled up pretty nicely on my main account and that will take over eventually.
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Not necessarily. I have Android so it just runs as an overlay. I believe if you are playing with an iPad you can do the same thing. On an iPhone, I think it doesn't allow the overlay so that may be an issue (or an opportunity to buy an iPad). I did hear that the new iOS will allow overlays on phones though, but I don't know when that is released.
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DRIVERS The EM will continue to be your main driver due to its distance. The accuracy sucks, but get better at hitting perfect. Also, there are likely very few times you'll actually need Overpower, so unless you need it, don't use it and you'll find that you're more consistent hitting Perfect. Keep upgrading the QB as well as it has some definite uses. The others can be slow played. The Big Topper has some very specific uses in tournaments and is very helpful in those cases. In the Highlands tournament a lot of people are using it on Hole 8. Up for you to decide if its worth it. WOODS There are three main woods you need to upgrade - The Viper, The Sniper, and the Big Dawg. You will primarily use the BD because of the distance needed to reach par 5s. So get good with it because the lack of BG sucks and takes practice. The Viper should be your second option if you are playing a hole where you can reach it in 2 without the BD. The sniper lacks so much distance at first it really only becomes viable at Lvl 6+ but should be upgraded and used as soon as possible over the Viper. It will be your main wood for a long time. One strategy for something like the Sniper is to not upgrade until you can get it to a higher level (5 or 6) when you hopefully have a better bankroll. But that carries risks because you will be paying for all the upgrades at once and that may be prohibitive if you are short on coins. LONG IRON It kind of depends on what becomes available. I used the Backbone almost exclusively in my main account because it upgraded early and often. On my second account I was able to get a lot of Grim Reaper cards early and used it for a while and just switched to a BB mostly because of the TS for rough bump shots. If you are getting a lot more Saturns than BB, they are interchangeable. I'd go with whichever you pick first and not worry about the other one. You'll stall out on the Grim Reaper because its an Epic and you won't get cards that often. Probably at level 4 or 5 and the BB or Saturn will quickly become the go to. As far as a little longer term, The Goliath is nice because it is longer and bridges the "gap" that can occur if you are using a shorter long iron. But it really is tough to use until about level 6 or 7. The Grizzly is very nice for the ball guide. SHORT IRON Thorn. You can approximate with the Hornet if you are getting more cards for it than the Thorn, and the Hornet does have more Topspin for rough bumps in tournaments. But all things being equal, the Thorn is the better club. I know the accuracy isn't as good, but honestly that only matters if you don't hit perfect and with a short iron, the ball isn't going in if you don't hit it perfect (assuming you are set up properly and adjust correctly). If you don't do those things, not hitting perfect is going be a crapshoot as to whether it goes in no matter what club and what accuracy. Nearly everyone plays the Thorn until they switch to the Falcon way down the line. WEDGE Its the Endbringer and everything else is fighting for 2nd. The Firefly is a good option early on if you get the cards - I'm still using it in my little account at Level 4 and it has a great ball guide and topspin which is what you want on chips. I will switch to EB when it gets to level 3 or 4. In the meantime, the Rapier will upgrade faster and is a really good option once the Firefly stalls out as far as upgrades since it is an Epic. But honestly, the FF is good enough until you get the EB leveled up some imo. I wouldn't upgrade anything else. ROUGH IRON Go for distance. You aren't likely to knock it in with a rough iron and even on chips its a crapshoot because the needle speed is higher. And you are most likely going to need the distance if you hit in the rough off the tee in order to stay in the hole. I used the Machete but hated it and hated that I didn't have a better option. Razor, Off Roader are good options at low levels to get distance. The Nirvana is a top 5 club in the game and you should switch to it as soon as you get it. SAND WEDGE Malibu and Spitfire. You'll use the Malibu for quite a while until the Spitfire gets to level 4 (when if finally has some backspin). Then the Spitfire because it has more distance, which again will keep you in holes if you hit in the bunker off the tee. Spitfire is a great club.
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Everyone makes a push at the end, so unless you have a big team willing to do the same, that final week is tough. I have 9 clubs in my baby account that need to be upgraded (some of them probably could upgrade multiple times) because there's no use. I know what I'm using and will continue to use so no reason to waste money right now. Coins are king early on when you have a limited bankroll. The Down in One is fine at the beginning because none of the other clubs have a developed ball guide, so there's not a big difference and it is very accurate. The problem comes up when you get to Tour 6+ when the wind starts picking up and you still have no ball guide it becomes a complete guess on distance and aim. The best way to minimize wind impact on chips is to get it on the ground and get it rolling. You have to be able to judge the time in the air and guess the impact that will have on the ball before it starts rolling and also know the distance it will roll out. The EB is great because there are guides on YouTube that show how to use it. Jared A and Iceman both have Endbringer videos to show how to use it and it has awesome accuracy (especially as you move up a couple levels) which increases the odds of it going in even if you don't hit perfect. Check them out, the EB is a great great club. Definitely learning to play by feel (not using the ring method) and how curl works is a huge learning experience that pays off. I used the basic ball on both accounts through T5 exclusively and still use it most of the time on T6 and T7 on my baby account. They use the gems to open up chests faster to get upgrades. I've spent a lot getting gems so I could do that, which is why my main account has pretty high clubs (all basic clubs maxed out, most rare either maxed out or at Level 8 with just a few hundred left to max out, and most Epics at Level 5 or 6). That's with less than 6000 games, but its been costly. I don't really spend money on my baby account and waiting for chests is a real pain in the ass and you end up playing a lot of games where you win, but don't get a chest because its full. In any event, sounds like you are on the right track and continuing to improve. I definitely suggest that as you get more into T6 and T7, that you start learning the ring system for wind adjustments. It becomes increasingly important as the wind gets higher and the players improve. You'll find that winning shootouts requires a lot of precision and "guessing" means you are at an immediate disadvantage in the shootout. You can still do well playing by feel, but its just much more difficult. Plus the winds in the lower tours let you get used to making "easy" adjustments compared to the higher winds which become more difficult. For instance, there are 10 rings, so if you are using a Sniper and the wind is 12mph, you may have to adjust 14 rings or so, which means adjusting the ring twice. The time is already tight so unless you are practiced at it, it becomes difficult. It also becomes more likely you'll hit the max/min lines and/or jump to different clubs without meaning to. You are welcome to join the team and it would be a huge help in getting to Masters. I'm also assembling a lot of information (how to guides, videos, shootout holes, tournament guides, streamers, etc) from a variety of sources and make that available to anyone on the team.
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Always liked that Rado does their own thing and always liked the Captain Cook. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
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So we're moving up to Expert III this week. We're going to need more players if we're going to keep moving up so anyone interested in joining is welcome. Newcomers and experienced players alike. Relatively active clan and I'm trying to consolidate information I come across that's helpful so if you're relatively new then there's a resource to learn the game and provide tournament guides. Clan is Bababooey! Just say you're from the internets. The only rules are don't be a "You're good" spammer in matches and don't use the Down in One as your wedge.
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Mullet - wrote this last week, but thought it was lost. Was going to post something else and my this post showed up. Seems like 700 was an initial barrier for my first account as well. We're currently in 3rd in Expert II so should move up to Expert III next week. Will be interesting to see if we have enough to get to Master I. Not sure what the points look like. We have plenty of room so happy have you if it works out. The delta once we move to Expert III and Master I is the 5th bag and 5 or 10% more gems - not a huge difference. You still get +3 trophies for each win. At 700 points you're probably playing Tour 6/7. That's when the winds start getting high enough that it pays to start understanding the wind adjustments, especially for shootouts. If you don't mind spending a few bucks, the Golf Clash Notebook app is the biggest thing you can do to improve your game, period. Its not even really close, other than being more consistent hitting perfect. Even if you don't end up learning the ring method (which I highly suggest as well and is quickly becoming a necessity in tournaments), and simply eyeball it, at the very least you know how much to move the target based on the amount of wind. As clubs change accuracy with upgrades, the adjustment for wind also changes. And there's just too many combinations to remember. Once you get your clubs mostly upgraded, they don't change very often so you start to learn generally what the adjustment is. I know its about 2.2 mph/ring for an EM8 (although I now have an EM 9 which I barely use since I got my TH 6). So if the wind is 6.6, I would adjust 3 rings. But its very different for each club and since you are in the middle of upgrading your clubs - assuming most are in the 4-7 range, the upgrades still come relatively quickly. So its nearly impossible to remember each adjustment. This is a killer when you play shootouts on higher tours because you won't win those consistently unless you get within 3 yards and 2 is ideal. If the wind is less than 5mph, it may not make a big difference, if the wind is 10mph, its a huge difference and the margin of error on a "guesstimate" is going to make you inconsistent on shootouts. If you guess right and hit a good shot, you'll probably win. But if you take out the guesswork, then it comes down to simply hitting "Perfect". I've got a lot of issues with Golf Clash/PlayDemic, but one thing they did absolutely right is make it easy to be a good to very good player and be competitive in 1v1. Then you get to a shootout, or you are in tournaments, and you find out that there are literally hundreds of thousands of players just as good as you are. If you're in a shootout and somebody rotates the screen to make the full wind adjustment, and you aren't doing that, you are at a huge disadvantage. You may not see it a ton in the tours you are playing now, but you'll start seeing it soon enough and its alot easier to learn when the adjustment is 1-5 rings than when its 7+ and especially anything 10+ (which it will be a lot with the Sniper) which you'll start seeing regularly in T8+.
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I've had really good luck with the location at 183 in Westlake. While not on the level of the top-end places, it nearly always above average. Every other one I've tried has been inconsistent and B-level. I think I need some bbq for lunch. Maybe Roegels.
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