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Posted

 

 

 

 

 

I assume that breezeway connects house and garage.  If you haven't already, recommend completely sealing that chamber on the house end to prevent rodents from using that as an expressway into your house.  I know its buttoned up already, but since you haven't caulked and painted yet, still feasible with the least amount of pain.  Speaking from experience...  

It does and we did. That was actually a big reason why I decided to do this. Little assholes were running rampant in our attic after we first moved in. I was able to block some of the holes to slow them down, but no way to access everything until I pulled the ceiling down. Hopefully I didn't miss anything.

 

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, MAGS® said:

I assume that breezeway connects house and garage.  If you haven't already, recommend completely sealing that chamber on the house end to prevent rodents from using that as an expressway into your house.  I know its buttoned up already, but since you haven't caulked and painted yet, still feasible with the least amount of pain.  Speaking from experience...  

And make sure your home owners insurance carrier knows you've attached your garage to your home....  They can deny claims based on that undisclosed info I believe. 

Posted

Had a patio cover installed about 6 months ago and starting to see some pot holes in the concrete. These are the biggest ones, there's 3 more but they aren't too bad. Don't have much experience with this, is this normal? I want to seal it when it gets cooler. Can I fill them with something or should I call the patio cover guy? 65e0902bbd39b29c836fb7672127b980.jpg

Posted

A neighbor was going to burn a bunch of big mesquite so a buddy and I salvaged it, made a solar kiln and a router sled to process it and are now making some live edge tables. This one I put on an old base I got off of craigslist. I need to get some pictures of the other two we have in the works.

A lot of work but fun.84293c2e2e34e6670d4defc97e617ad5.jpg

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Posted
13 minutes ago, Ten Bears said:

A neighbor was going to burn a bunch of big mesquite so a buddy and I salvaged it, made a solar kiln and a router sled to process it and are now making some live edge tables. This one I put on an old base I got off of craigslist. I need to get some pictures of the other two we have in the works.

A lot of work but fun.84293c2e2e34e6670d4defc97e617ad5.jpg

Really nice. I like the repurposing of the base and salvaged wood

Posted

This slab had some really nice burl on one end and bookmatched pretty well.   On my phone it shows up much closer to the true redder color than my laptop.  Weird.  The burl area has a 3d effect as you move over it.  The crusty old sawmill guy even stopped his saw and dusted this slab off to take a better look at it.  

I put around 10 coats of wipe-on poly on it so it should hold up against water rings should some asshole put his drink on it.

Posted
13 hours ago, Ten Bears said:

A neighbor was going to burn a bunch of big mesquite so a buddy and I salvaged it, made a solar kiln and a router sled to process it and are now making some live edge tables. This one I put on an old base I got off of craigslist. I need to get some pictures of the other two we have in the works.

A lot of work but fun.84293c2e2e34e6670d4defc97e617ad5.jpg

That is bad ass.  Would love to see the solar kiln and sled router set up when you have some time.  

Posted

Here's a shot of the kiln with three front panels off. 8 x 12. You are supposed to set the pitch angle to your latitude so I went with Austin lat of 30. I wish I had gone a little steeper to better catch the winter ray's because sun in the summer isn't much of a problem. With a full load I was seeing 160 f. With a small load it was more like 180 lol.ca6a96cebc24183b3b0535047ea990b1.jpg

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Posted

Plumbing issue:

New to me house. House 20 years old.  Full remodel in last 5 years

pedastal sink

2 handle faucet 

closest bathroom to water heater

faucet won’t get hot water.  Water flows out at apparent normal pressure.  I can feel the water get just barely lukewarm then it pulses cold.

never seen anything like it.  Anyone?

 

 

 

Posted

A couple of wild card thoughts.  Turn off supply to hot water heater and see what happens. That will eliminate weird piping and weird faucet having problems. Assuming the cold side of faucet is fine - otherwise your pipes are reversed

Posted
4 minutes ago, Ten Bears said:

Only that one faucet not getting hot but the rest are?  Weird.  I assume you have the valve under the sink open fully?

Yes,

one of the first things I checked.  Its very weird(obviously).  If it was a hot line blockage, I would think the flow would be restricted.  

 

It very much does seem like there is a mixing valve.  But, it is just a simple two handle faucet on a pedestal sink.

Posted
On 9/6/2018 at 6:01 PM, Onboard 2.0 said:

Really nice. I like the repurposing of the base and salvaged wood

I repurposed your mom and she resalvaged my wood several times last night.

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Posted

Here's our 3 legged table that is done except for the finish. Put some bloodwood bowties in which I regretted because they are hard af and took forever to sand down flush. That is probably why they laughed at me when I bought the bloodwood board at Woodcraft.

Also a better pic of the kiln.f17b2e8cbaea35bd671943f3718decfd.jpg0855647d7d34d41486fbb9dccb00bd2c.jpg6aa4c49d7ff54b0f787a57ed5fad5658.jpg

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Posted
40 minutes ago, Ten Bears said:

Here's our 3 legged table that is done except for the finish. Put some bloodwood bowties in which I regretted because they are hard af and took forever to sand down flush. That is probably why they laughed at me when I bought the bloodwood board at Woodcraft.

Also a better pic of the kiln.

Looks great - nice work.  Wish I had the time to do something like that.  I have a slab of Pecan that's been sitting in my garage for a few years.

Posted
12 hours ago, Ten Bears said:

Here's our 3 legged table that is done except for the finish. Put some bloodwood bowties in which I regretted because they are hard af and took forever to sand down flush. That is probably why they laughed at me when I bought the bloodwood board at Woodcraft.

Also a better pic of the kiln.f17b2e8cbaea35bd671943f3718decfd.jpg0855647d7d34d41486fbb9dccb00bd2c.jpg6aa4c49d7ff54b0f787a57ed5fad5658.jpg

Show em the end result and they will regret laughing. I’m of the opinion that the extra effort of the bow tie’s was well worth it, and it compliments the piece exceptionally well.

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Posted
19 hours ago, Incredulity said:

Yes,

one of the first things I checked.  Its very weird(obviously).  If it was a hot line blockage, I would think the flow would be restricted.  

 

It very much does seem like there is a mixing valve.  But, it is just a simple two handle faucet on a pedestal sink.

Try switching the supply lines and see if you get the reverse result. That probably means the mixer valve is messed up.

Posted
1 hour ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Does the hot water line have lower pressure than the cold water line? I'm assuming there is some sort of check valve in there to prevent backflow, but if that is broken it could be causing a problem.

there is no noticable difference in pressure between just cold or just hot handles being open.

 

  I did confirm last night that closing the hot valve completely stopped flow when valve was closed. So the valve is functional.

 

 

Posted
6 hours ago, AUinHsv said:

Undo the hot supply from the faucet and then open the shutoff valve with it aimed in a bucket to see if the temperature problem is before or after the faucet.

So.....spoke with former owner.

The house is built with recirculating hot water that he never used.  Says he didn’t like it.  That sink, though near water heater is at end of loop.

 

probably should have been disclosed, but I am not going to freak out.  

 

Off to research the recirculation system.

Posted
8 hours ago, Incredulity said:

So.....spoke with former owner.

The house is built with recirculating hot water that he never used.  Says he didn’t like it.  That sink, though near water heater is at end of loop.

 

probably should have been disclosed, but I am not going to freak out.  

 

Off to research the recirculation system.

Well damned if that isn't Deja Vu. Had a similar problem to yours after I replaced a water heater.  No hot water was being delivered to fixtures.  I cut off the recirc pump. Problem solved, other than a 3-4 minute lag in hot water at the master bath now.  Not sure what the issue is with that, maybe a pressure "bubble "of some sort in the line is created ??  Definiteley report back with your findings. 

Posted

I am pretty sure that the sink is drawing water from the cold end of the recirculating loop.  Cant find anything on the consequences of closing the loop by removing pump.  I assume that sink would be longest to hot water without modifying hot water piping.

 

Posted

Take a picture of the piping at the water heater. Most likely they removed the check valve when they took out the pump, or the check valve is bad. Sometimes the check valve is integral to the pump, although most residential models don't have this. But either way you have a direct cross connection where the recirc line ties into the cold supply for the water heater. Without a check valve it will typically show itself at the closest fixture.

Full disclosure, I'm a commercial plumber so I'm not as familiar with residential practices. And I didn't stay in a Holiday inn Express last night.

Posted

I'm looking for a large butchers block for the kitchen to serve as chopping board, pastry kneading surface, whatever.

 

It needs not be a thick massive single plank, and not particular on the wood type, but needs to be dimensionally 80*60 in socialist units.  and of course food-grade.  type of wood doesn't matter - even bamboo is fine.

 

problem is retail blocks are typically 40*30 in size.  tried looking at home supplies store for raw construction wood but the planks aren't proper dimension. 

 

assuming I did find such a thing, and can plane or sand it myself...what should of treatment should I give it?  teak oil or something? and I don't have any equipment to join pieces together.  could I find some lumber mills or what?

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, 52-80 said:

I'm looking for a large butchers block for the kitchen to serve as chopping board, pastry kneading surface, whatever.

 

It needs not be a thick massive single plank, and not particular on the wood type, but needs to be dimensionally 80*60 in socialist units.  and of course food-grade.  type of wood doesn't matter - even bamboo is fine.

 

problem is retail blocks are typically 40*30 in size.  tried looking at home supplies store for raw construction wood but the planks aren't proper dimension. 

 

assuming I did find such a thing, and can plane or sand it myself...what should of treatment should I give it?  teak oil or something? and I don't have any equipment to join pieces together.  could I find some lumber mills or what?

 

Try the guys who build flat beds for hauling equipment on big 18 wheel vehicles. Those beds are often hardwood butcher block design, and they don't charge what a cabinet shop would.  I know a couple designers around here that have done that from time to time.

I'd be going with maple if at all possible, because of the density.

If you're cutting on it simply keep it oiled.

Posted

Can't help with assembly as I bought our black walnut island top from a place in Vermont. I did finish sand it myself though before sealing. I used this oil on it before eventually sealing with Waterlox since we don't cut on it.

 

http://www.howardproducts.com/product/cutting-board-oil/

 

Edit: Googled and it does say Waterlox is food safe once fully cured. So if that's the case, I'd use it for less maintenance.

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