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Mojo Hand

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  • 4 weeks later...

I brought this up briefly earlier, but does anyone have experience hanging floating shelves on a porcelain tile backsplash? I also only have one stud available so would need to use some anchors. The more I research this project, the more confident I feel that I will fuck it up.

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1 hour ago, hookem2010 said:

I brought this up briefly earlier, but does anyone have experience hanging floating shelves on a porcelain tile backsplash? I also only have one stud available so would need to use some anchors. The more I research this project, the more confident I feel that I will fuck it up.

I haven't tried this but I wouldn't trust a hollow wall anchor to hold a floating shelf mount unless you know for certain the load will be light. Even with two studs, I keep the load light on any of our floating shelves. Floating shelves are just a very awkward distribution of weight.

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Got a new toy. Works so damn well - it's going to save me hours of time squaring wood up and has me excited to launch more projects.

Half way put together here but you get the idea - produces dead 90 after a two passes.

PXL_20240716_021307230_MP.thumb.jpg.3c97ab0e37e4311b02b795504e2f586b.jpg

PXL_20240717_145022976_MP.thumb.jpg.991b02ae1c281c82f4ae85b83c60b5e3.jpg

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23 minutes ago, dieucla98 said:

I haven't tried this but I wouldn't trust a hollow wall anchor to hold a floating shelf mount unless you know for certain the load will be light. Even with two studs, I keep the load light on any of our floating shelves. Floating shelves are just a very awkward distribution of weight.

Is there any specialized anchor that would be sufficient? The shelves are pretty heavy by themselves. I've also struggled to find anchors of adequate depth, as I believe I would need 3/4" for the 1/4" tile + 1/2" drywall(??).

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2 hours ago, hookem2010 said:

I brought this up briefly earlier, but does anyone have experience hanging floating shelves on a porcelain tile backsplash? I also only have one stud available so would need to use some anchors. The more I research this project, the more confident I feel that I will fuck it up.

I've got some experience there.  It can be done, but i's gonna be tough.  We've had luck with these for heavy applications, but have only used them in drywall.  I don't see why they wouldn't work through tile.  How thick are the tiles?

https://www.wingits.com/products/master-anchor-super-duty-fastener-with-offset-faceplate/

You'll need to use a diamond-tipped drill bit and go very slow with a pilot hole.  And, don't over-tighten the anchor.  Get it just snug enough where the bracket won't move, but if you tighten it too much, you can crack the porcelain.  Use a good floating shelf bracket like the one below and try to do an anchor ever 6" OC, and you should be fine.

https://www.ultrashelf.com/collections/floating-shelf-brackets

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Tiles are 1/4". At the hardware store I only ever see the diamond-edged hole saw bits, which is what I thought I need to go with. Is that correct? And the mounts you linked look pretty much like the ones that came with the shelves.

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7 minutes ago, hookem2010 said:

Tiles are 1/4". At the hardware store I only ever see the diamond-edged hole saw bits, which is what I thought I need to go with. Is that correct? And the mounts you linked look pretty much like the ones that came with the shelves.

Yeah.  Most of them are hole saw style, even for small diameters like what you're doing.  It may be worth a trip to a tile supply store to get a good bit or two.  Some of the cheap ones you find on Amazon and Home Depot / Lowes get dull very quickly.  

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33 minutes ago, hookem2010 said:

Is there any specialized anchor that would be sufficient? The shelves are pretty heavy by themselves. I've also struggled to find anchors of adequate depth, as I believe I would need 3/4" for the 1/4" tile + 1/2" drywall(??).

Can you just carve out a hole in the tile big enough to fit the anchor + head against the drywall instead of against the tile? That could open you up to some of the more heavy duty options out there and you don't have to worry about cracking the tile when you tighten the screw down. Having a small gap between the shelf and the anchor where the tile is carved out shouldn't weaken anything too much I don't think.

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Got a new toy. Works so damn well - it's going to save me hours of time squaring wood up and has me excited to launch more projects.
Half way put together here but you get the idea - produces dead 90 after a two passes.
PXL_20240716_021307230_MP.thumb.jpg.3c97ab0e37e4311b02b795504e2f586b.jpg
PXL_20240717_145022976_MP.thumb.jpg.991b02ae1c281c82f4ae85b83c60b5e3.jpg

Nice. Is that the 8”? I wanted one pretty bad, but couldn’t justify/afford one. Went with a benchtop. Still in the box.
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3 hours ago, Jkwellborn said:


Nice. Is that the 8”? I wanted one pretty bad, but couldn’t justify/afford one. Went with a benchtop. Still in the box.

6" version, too cheap for the all out splurge. Also, during the odd time I need wider planks flattened, I'm planning on using the planer trick where you essentially hang the board on a sled and pass it through.

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6" version, too cheap for the all out splurge. Also, during the odd time I need wider planks flattened, I'm planning on using the planer trick where you essentially hang the board on a sled and pass it through.

I need to get all my stuff out and going. I’ve gotta get my shop straightened up because I need to build some stuff.

Any of yall ever mess with epoxy?
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1 hour ago, Jkwellborn said:


I need to get all my stuff out and going. I’ve gotta get my shop straightened up because I need to build some stuff.

Any of yall ever mess with epoxy?

Yeah, like, bar-top epoxy and resin clear-coat?  I had a nice piece of live edge black walnut that I coated and then turned into my dining room light fixture.  I think I posted some pics at the old joint.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a couple of months ago our main garage door broke.  The metal piece that went across the top of the door that the opener was attached to pulled out and ripped out several screws along the way.  I called a garage door repair guy, who took one look and said can't fix it, has to be replaced, and quoted me $1,800 for a new door and opener.  Told them I would get back to them.

This past weekend, I got to thinking...  If all that happened was that those screws pulled out, I could probably just get the piece back in place, drill some new pilot holes and put in some new screws.  90 minutes by a rank amateur and $4.27 at Home Depot later, I once again have a fully functioning garage door with more screws now than it had before to minimize the chance of it happening again.  Shame on me for not investigating before calling a professional, but the professional can kiss right off with his quote.

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On 8/6/2024 at 6:25 PM, SurlyGator said:

So a couple of months ago our main garage door broke.  The metal piece that went across the top of the door that the opener was attached to pulled out and ripped out several screws along the way.  I called a garage door repair guy, who took one look and said can't fix it, has to be replaced, and quoted me $1,800 for a new door and opener.  Told them I would get back to them.

This past weekend, I got to thinking...  If all that happened was that those screws pulled out, I could probably just get the piece back in place, drill some new pilot holes and put in some new screws.  90 minutes by a rank amateur and $4.27 at Home Depot later, I once again have a fully functioning garage door with more screws now than it had before to minimize the chance of it happening again.  Shame on me for not investigating before calling a professional, but the professional can kiss right off with his quote.

From the pro's perspective, he can't risk the insurance claim if he "fixes it" like you did and it breaks and you sue him.  So from his POV it's a full replacement.  But yeah, what you did works fine for a while, maybe even a long while.  I got 3 extra years out of a door before, but eventually it will get out of whack.  Just look out for it and be careful.  Garage springs are one of the most dangerous things out there, and flexed metal is a good way to get it to unspring.  But if you are careful and stay on top of it, it should be fine

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20 hours ago, fattyflattie said:

I do pretty much everything except fuck with garage springs.  I’ve done it, I don’t need to do it anymore.  

I fixed one once before I knew how dangerous it was.  Told a guy back then, that I think is maybe handier than Norm Abrams even, and he gave me a scolding.  Never again.  I watched videos of them failing and no thank you

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Don’t know if this is the right thread for this but I’ll try. 
 

I built a tree fort (deck) for my kids. I want to put a ~150’ zip line starting about 15’ in the air. No clue which brand to buy. This will be for 10-13 year olds (to 40 year old for em :) ). I do want one with a seat or loop / foot stand.  Max weight of 250 is plenty. Most of the Amazon ones I see are easily 300 lb if not 400 lb. Any recommendations?

 

 

DEF89AFD-512F-4A2A-A856-B040B0626423.jpeg

Edited by UT_OB1
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19 hours ago, UT_OB1 said:

Don’t know if this is the right thread for this but I’ll try. 
 

I built a tree fort (deck) for my kids. I want to put a ~150’ zip line starting about 15’ in the air. No clue which brand to buy. This will be for 10-13 year olds (to 40 year old for em :) ). I do want one with a seat or loop / foot stand.  Max weight of 250 is plenty. Most of the Amazon ones I see are easily 300 lb if not 400 lb. Any recommendations?

 

I bought a 200 foot zip line four years ago for our ranchito and it’s been great.  Rogue Series from zip line gear.  It was $600 without the tensioning kit that I realized I needed after the purchase.  

I watched a shit ton of YouTubes for the zip line math.  Tested it out with a bucket full of rocks and first one too slow, second one too hot and crashed into the tree.  Also bought extra bungee cord brake so kids are slowed down twice before the actual no-shit brake gets hit.
 

 

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Vanity light installation question. I'm replacing a super dated fixture and was going to use the same light I had placed in another bathroom, as seen below. However, it mounts onto just the little metal strip that fits in the outlet box, or whatever it is called.

Unfortunately, as you can see, it is not aligned with the bathroom counter and this sort of mount does not allow me to shift it the couple inches to the side I need to in order to center.

For other vanity lighting with longer bases/covers for the wiring portion, do they typically come with a mounting system that would allow me make that 2-3" shift? The previous light was definitely centered, and I believe it came with some sort of mounting plate that I guess allowed the light to not be centered directly over the outlet box.

20240918_102651.jpg

IMG_20240918_103015.jpg

Edited by hookem2010
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On 9/16/2024 at 7:08 PM, UT_OB1 said:

Don’t know if this is the right thread for this but I’ll try. 
 

I built a tree fort (deck) for my kids. I want to put a ~150’ zip line starting about 15’ in the air. No clue which brand to buy. This will be for 10-13 year olds (to 40 year old for em :) ). I do want one with a seat or loop / foot stand.  Max weight of 250 is plenty. Most of the Amazon ones I see are easily 300 lb if not 400 lb. Any recommendations?

 

 

DEF89AFD-512F-4A2A-A856-B040B0626423.jpeg

If those are your kids, I'm pretty sure that immamac has been fucking your wife. 

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