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Posted (edited)

Not sure the best place to post this. I’m looking for a way to have some organization of my tools. I was thinking a box on wheels for the saws, drills, and other large power tools. But damn everyone wants $100+ for a plastic box with wheels. I found a $70 on Walmart that also has 2 smaller tackle box like tool boxes that ride on top of the big box, but I don’t think those smaller boxes will be useful. Probably going to grab a bag with dividers for the hand tools. 
Anyone have any recs for portable tool storage that are decent priced?

Edited by UT_OB1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I’m adding some drawers to replace doors and shelves under my garage workbench. I’m using the half- half-half method from YouTube and it’s my first time to ever use a dado head. I used the panel saw and miter saw from work to break down 1 sheet of 1/2” and 1 sheet of 1/4”. I have the first drawer dry fit to prove my engineering and will build the rest tomorrow. I don’t care if all y’all woodworkers laugh, I’m a toolmaker/gunsmith, not a cabinetmaker. 
image.thumb.jpeg.4ceb3bdd2d82102c8905dc18b61e6b97.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.facd77660f4f1313f8d7d492320ffbca.jpegIMG_2408.thumb.jpg.39e627ae72f4e9c3abfd481455bea450.jpgIMG_2394.thumb.jpg.4bc264a2585cd4e32dd50e84e718105e.jpg

Edited by Shoxthemonkey
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  • 2 months later...
Posted
22 hours ago, DallasHorn26 said:

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Built this entry table. I used Peruvian walnut, read oak and a third wood that I can’t remember for the top and coated with a poly. The base is just box store lumber painted and stained. I may refinish the top at some point since seems like the topcoat is a little uneven.

Great work!

Posted

French door question. I noticed some light coming through the bottom and top of our doors. I thought it might just be worn weather stripping, so I replaced the center ateop. But upon closer inspection, there is a decent sized gap at the bottom where the doors meet. 

I believe these doors were probably installed by the previous owner. Can I do something with the door threshold to seal it, or is this an astragal problem or what?

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Posted
3 hours ago, hookem2010 said:

French door question. I noticed some light coming through the bottom and top of our doors. I thought it might just be worn weather stripping, so I replaced the center ateop. But upon closer inspection, there is a decent sized gap at the bottom where the doors meet. 

I believe these doors were probably installed by the previous owner. Can I do something with the door threshold to seal it, or is this an astragal problem or what?

20250310_101412.jpg

Typically the threshold weatherstripping continues on the secondary door beneath the astragal.  Maybe they cut it back because it was dragging?  I'm guessing you could pull both doors off the hinges and affix new threshold weatherstripping to both doors, then cut to length to narrow the gap.  It looks like there's a multipoint bolt that drops into the threshold from the astragal, so you may have to modify the new sweep to go around that.  Assuming both doors have standard grooves, those replacement threshold weatherstrippings are super easy to install.  It takes 10X as long to get the doors off the hinges as it does to actually install the weatherstipping.

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Posted

I took delivery on this custom vanity an hour ago, and I am realizing now that I am pretty disappointed in how it turned out with respect to the inspiration image I sent the carpenter.

The color of the stain doesn't necessarily bother me per se, but the prominent wood grain makes it look rather rustic, when this tiny powder room is probably the most formal room in my house. The cabinets have a noticeable gap as well. 

Can someone take a guess at what type of wood this is? Is there anything that can be done to make it look a little less country? I guess I could paint it, but I'm annoyed as I paid extra for stain grade wood. 

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Posted
11 minutes ago, harpercollins said:

I took delivery on this custom vanity an hour ago, and I am realizing now that I am pretty disappointed in how it turned out with respect to the inspiration image I sent the carpenter.

The color of the stain doesn't necessarily bother me per se, but the prominent wood grain makes it look rather rustic, when this tiny powder room is probably the most formal room in my house. The cabinets have a noticeable gap as well. 

Can someone take a guess at what type of wood this is? Is there anything that can be done to make it look a little less country? I guess I could paint it, but I'm annoyed as I paid extra for stain grade wood. 

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Looks like plain sawn White Oak which is very grainy.  It would have to be stripped down, but I'm a big fan of the Rubio Monocoat products.  It's expensive, but it doesn't need to be sprayed on, and provides a low sheen in several different colors.  Link below and an image attached.  

Trimming out the drawer fronts with the Shaker style trim may dress it up some too.  

https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/

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Posted
20 hours ago, harpercollins said:

I took delivery on this custom vanity an hour ago, and I am realizing now that I am pretty disappointed in how it turned out with respect to the inspiration image I sent the carpenter.

The color of the stain doesn't necessarily bother me per se, but the prominent wood grain makes it look rather rustic, when this tiny powder room is probably the most formal room in my house. The cabinets have a noticeable gap as well. 

Can someone take a guess at what type of wood this is? Is there anything that can be done to make it look a little less country? I guess I could paint it, but I'm annoyed as I paid extra for stain grade wood. 

IMG_2474.jpeg

IMG_2473 Large.jpeg

That's not even close to what you sent the carpenter. I would have him refinish it. 

Posted

Well, it's not walnut like the link.  Might even be pine.  Is the grain raised at all?  Depending on the type of hinges, the gap needs to be there for the doors to not hit each other when opening.  Though that gap does look wide.  

Posted
22 hours ago, harpercollins said:

I took delivery on this custom vanity an hour ago, and I am realizing now that I am pretty disappointed in how it turned out with respect to the inspiration image I sent the carpenter.

The color of the stain doesn't necessarily bother me per se, but the prominent wood grain makes it look rather rustic, when this tiny powder room is probably the most formal room in my house. The cabinets have a noticeable gap as well. 

Can someone take a guess at what type of wood this is? Is there anything that can be done to make it look a little less country? I guess I could paint it, but I'm annoyed as I paid extra for stain grade wood. 

IMG_2474.jpeg

IMG_2473 Large.jpeg

That is a huge miss by the carpenter.  It does not match that room at all.  

Posted

It's oak.  This particular stain makes the grain stand out more than it would have if they applied the same stain as your example.  I think you can salvage it.  You've got the right idea but strip it down first.

Posted
4 hours ago, BHMCruiser said:

That's not even close to what you sent the carpenter. I would have him refinish it. 

Damn.  Just saw the link.  That's a full inlay in that image.  WAY more expensive to build, but would definitely look awesome in that powder bath.  

@harpercollins not sure if he gave you shop drawings to approve or if you paid him in full yet, but that's a big miss on several fronts if that's what he was supposed to build.  The image you sent is probably a $2,500 vanity from a good cabinet maker.  

Posted

I paid $1250. My friends and I have all used him before and been happy with his work. I reached out to let them know I wasn’t happy with it and why. They apologized and said they would get back to me.

Realistically what are my options? Should I just paint it? Or return it and risk burning a bridge? I’m disappointed with more than the species. It just doesn’t look very well done— super blotchy with visible planing marks. Drawer mechanism seems wonky too.

I honestly don’t consider myself super picky, and I definitely bear some responsibility for not asking more questions and drawing up a contract. (In retrospect I think I was reluctant to do anything that would slow it down because i ordered it in October and it took several follow up texts to get any movement on it all.)

Posted

Man, that really sucks.  With the additional context, I say.... screw those guys.  Go full no-lube on them.  Six months and you got that?!?!  When I first replied, I figured you had a trim carpenter do it for $500 or something over a few days without any shop drawings.  Or maybe it was a relative or buddy.  But, $1,250 and six months!?!?  I'd ask for a full refund or replacement.  That's blasphemy.  

I owned a high-end luxury remodeling company for 12+ years with our own in-house millwork / cabinetry shop.  We cranked out some awesome stuff.  What you got was a DIY hack-job that I bit my lip about because I was trying to be nice.  If someone who claims to be anywhere near a cabinet shop sold you that, I'd be demanding a refund.  

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Posted

 

 

Nailed It!: 17 Biggest Baking Fails On The Show

 

Seriously though, I'm sorry that happened to you.  I'd be honest with the guy.  If he's done good work for you before, then he HAS to know that this isn't right.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Re-staining is a bitch - damn near impossible to get all of it removed and then it acts as the foundation for the new stain so you never really know what the final "mixed" color looks like, not to mention it will mix different on different parts of the wood depending on the level of stain you left there. Basically, it ends up splotchy and more grainy looking. Only option I'd do sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, paint which is a fuckton of work in and of itself and would waste the oak (you may as well have used pine or alder). 

I say you get your money back or have them remake it. It looks like they use the minwax walnut stain - I recognize it from my early days of woodworking when I was too cheap for anything good. Feel for ya, man - hope they make it right b/c they goofed bad.

Thinking a bit more about this... That level of splotchyness makes me think this is pine where they didn't use any pre-conditioner prior to staining. Oak is usually way kinder to stains than that.

Edited by dieucla98
  • Like 1
Posted
On 3/13/2025 at 12:50 PM, harpercollins said:

 

 

IMG_2473 Large.jpeg

 

4 minutes ago, dieucla98 said:

It looks like they use the minwax walnut stain 

That's exactly what it looks like.  I can smell it.

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Posted

I can’t fathom charging someone for a build and not having them approve a physical sample of the wood/finish combo.

Hell when I make something for my wife I show her a sample of the finish on an off cut from the project before I commit to anything. 

Also, it looks like the floating panels of the doors are birch and not oak. And I’m not 100% convinced the rest of it is oak. The splotchiness and what looks like grain reversal in some places. Maybe pine, maybe poplar. I’d love to see the end grain of the drawers. 

At the very least the still visible milling marks and inconsistent sanding are the wrong choice for the stain used. The rustic milling isn’t necessarily bad in and of itself if you like that look, but it needs to have a better dye/stain combo to avoid the harsh splotchiness. But more specifically, it’s not remotely close to the refined (actually planed smooth and sanded properly) look in the inspiration piece. 

Did you or the builder specify actually using walnut? IMO there isn’t a better looking wood than walnut with a thin oil finish (what is pictured in your sample). 

All that said, what you got wouldn’t look terrible in a rustic house, but it’s a far cry from the level of finish in the inspiration. 

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Posted
4 hours ago, heso said:

 

Hell when I make something for my wife I show her a sample of the finish on an off cut from the project before I commit to anything. 

 

you might be pussywhipped

Posted

They're not wrong - Walnut is really pricey these days and yes, you can get something close to the look for cheaper. What you got was not that. 

I'd have gone alder plus a darker tone Rubio monocoat but with two coats. Alder won't have the lovely variation Walnut has but it takes stain wonderfully and Rubio is amazing. And alder is cheap (Rubio is not...). 

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Posted

For those in Austin looking to get into woodworking or expand their shop, check out Assmbly - it's a hacker space and they have some kick ass tools. 12" Laguna jointer, 15" powermatic planer, 2 sawzstop, a resaw, 3 band saws, drum sander, huge CNCs, etc etc... It's a bit of a process to get access but it only costs $100/month.

I just went this weekend for my first squaring sessions and was able to square up a decent amount of maple in just over an hour. Using my own jointer, planer, and table saw, that would have taken 3 hours plus with all the setup time and just the inefficiency of my tools vs there's. Highly recommend it - great for beginners (tons of lessons) and seasoned woodworkers. They also have a metal shop and other tools not related to woodworking as well. 

https://asmbly.org/space/woodshop/

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Posted
16 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

you might be pussywhipped

Because I don’t mind adding 1% to the time of building something to make sure she’s happy with something she’s going to look at every day? 

I know I fucking hate when I’m looking at something I made and all I see is “I wish I would have made it lighter/darker/warmer”. Why would I not take the extra time to make sure someone else doesn't feel that way? 

I guess it’s a luxury of doing woodworking as a hobby rather than a profession. I can waste time on perfectionism instead of having to worry about profit. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Jkwellborn said:


What planer do you have?

I have an old dewalt 733 that I kind of hate but it gets the job done and it was free. The raising/lowering mechanism is gummed up and it takes an absurd amount of effort. It also has way more snipe than I would like to deal with, both in depth and length up the board. If I really need to minimize snipe I run some scrap pieces with it to take the snipe.

There is a long list of tools to buy before replacing it so it’ll never end up getting replaced before it dies. When I do I’ll probably go with a 735 and get a helical cutter for it. 

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Posted
I have an old dewalt 733 that I kind of hate but it gets the job done and it was free. The raising/lowering mechanism is gummed up and it takes an absurd amount of effort. It also has way more snipe than I would like to deal with, both in depth and length up the board. If I really need to minimize snipe I run some scrap pieces with it to take the snipe.
There is a long list of tools to buy before replacing it so it’ll never end up getting replaced before it dies. When I do I’ll probably go with a 735 and get a helical cutter for it. 

I bought a 735x setup on sale a while back with a bunch of Home Depot pro rewards and gift cards. I think I spent $200 of my own money. Need to try the stupid thing out. I’ve been so damn busy haven’t messed with it. I’ve tossed around getting a Byrd for it, but damn, they’re as much as the planer.
Posted
On 3/24/2025 at 5:10 PM, Jkwellborn said:

@Heso, have you tried putting a chamfer on the ends of the material before you run it through the planer? One of the YouTube people I watch does it on pretty much everything.

I’ll have to give that a try. Who do you like watching on YouTube?

Posted
I’ll have to give that a try. Who do you like watching on YouTube?

John Malecki, Blacktail Studios, Woodworking for mere mortals (he explains a ton of stuff and nothing is really fancy, but Hess Woodwork or Hess carpentry and woodwork (I forget the channel name) is my favorite. He doesn’t necessarily have a bunch of fancy tools. Most of the channels you watch use a ton of Woodpeckers, Festool and things like that. He really doesn’t.
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Posted
On 3/25/2025 at 7:34 PM, dieucla98 said:

This guy is bad ass but his content is light: https://www.youtube.com/c/PedullaStudio

I thought it sounded familiar, looking at his channel I’ve seen a few of his videos.

16 hours ago, Jkwellborn said:


John Malecki, Blacktail Studios, Woodworking for mere mortals (he explains a ton of stuff and nothing is really fancy, but Hess Woodwork or Hess carpentry and woodwork (I forget the channel name) is my favorite. He doesn’t necessarily have a bunch of fancy tools. Most of the channels you watch use a ton of Woodpeckers, Festool and things like that. He really doesn’t.

I know some of those. Never heard of Hess, I’ll check it out. 

Posted

I’m getting started on a project I’ve been mulling over for a few years. I want to make a travel bar in a briefcase. Somewhat inspired by antique pistol cases where you’d have a box for your pistol and all of the implements and tools, I want to have a case where I have everything I need to make an old fashioned and a Manhattan as well as play music.

I finally came across a briefcase with the right feel to it. A little more beat up than I’d prefer but the style and the price were right.

The briefcase:

e1da53b42a9dda0bde65d69cbf16d2ea.jpg
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Plan for the layout of the case:
71af4491e12ebe18a3b007198971c096.jpg

And the current status, measuring things to
Make sure it’ll all fit.

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The fabric in this picture is some chocolate brown pig suede that I’m going to reline the inside with.

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