Woodworking, DIY, and home repair thread

[Dbeasy 15526]

One thought. Think about how you want to keep snakes and rats from living under that.

[Okie State 3887]

One thought. Think about how you want to keep snakes and rats from living under that.

I added metal landscape edging around the inside perimeter of the deck before I finished it. I'm sure the bastards will still find a way in though.

[Spaulding Smails 1610]

1 hour ago, Okie State said:

Thanks. I'm a financial analyst so I have no idea what I'm doing and making it up as I go. I'm using asphalt shingles on the roof and cedar shake for siding. At least that's the plan as I've never installed either so we'll see how it goes. It will have a simple painted door on the front and shutter for a window on the back. I also want to add some low voltage lighting inside and maybe one or two on the front.

The girls are already loving it and it's not close to finished so that makes it worth it.

That's awesome.  Shingles should be super easy.  Possibly put down some felt paper first with a slap stapler if you have one.  Cedar shingles should be pretty easy to install and will be a nice touch.  Send more pics as you continue working on it!

[Okie State 3887]

Will be using felt under the shingles and some kind of wrap under the shake. I love working on stuff like this and learning new things as I go. It's small enough that I can do it myself and take my time.

I had to tarp it tonight and wait for the shingles and cedar to come in, but hopefully I can get it finished up within the next few weeks. Will post pics as I progress.

[Okie State 3887]

Still waiting on the shingles and cedar to come in. Finished the inside with the exception of some trim. I decided to leave the front open to get some air flow. Seemed like it would be hot as hell all closed in. Plus I was worried about building a door that would hold up to the weather without warping. I'll probably buy a heavy duty canvas tarp and cut it into some shades that can be opened or drawn shut on the front so it's almost like a tent.

[NateHitch 1282]

That looks badass man, nice work! Such a good feeling to break out the tools and build something

[Okie State 3887]

Quarantine has given me some time to finally work on this again. Finished the cedar shake. All that's left is the asphalt shingles and it should be good to go.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

12 minutes ago, Okie State said:

Quarantine has given me some time to finally work on this again. Finished the cedar shake. All that's left is the asphalt shingles and it should be good to go.

Your shingle instructions are on the bundle wrapper.  5" Offset, do NOT go with a "racking" (brick layout) method.

Use felt with plastic caps, drip edge nailed on the proper sequence, starter strip trimmed so the edges don't line up with the first course edges & it wouldn't hurt to buy a high profile ridge cap from a specialty supplier (i.e. "real" roofing house vs. Depot or Lowe's) that is designed to work on a steep slope ridge.

[Okie State 3887]

Your shingle instructions are on the bundle wrapper.  5" Offset, do NOT go with a "racking" (brick layout) method.

Use felt with plastic caps, drip edge nailed on the proper sequence, starter strip trimmed so the edges don't line up with the first course edges & it wouldn't hurt to buy a high profile ridge cap from a specialty supplier (i.e. "real" roofing house vs. Depot or Lowe's) that is designed to work on a steep slope ridge.

Thanks for the tips. Surprisingly I think all of that was my plan. Shit takes me forever but I'm a perfectionist.

[Mrs Whiggins 13050]

That is lovely. Very nice work.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

20 hours ago, Okie State said:

20 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Your shingle instructions are on the bundle wrapper.  5" Offset, do NOT go with a "racking" (brick layout) method.

Use felt with plastic caps, drip edge nailed on the proper sequence, starter strip trimmed so the edges don't line up with the first course edges & it wouldn't hurt to buy a high profile ridge cap from a specialty supplier (i.e. "real" roofing house vs. Depot or Lowe's) that is designed to work on a steep slope ridge.

Thanks for the tips. Surprisingly I think all of that was my plan. Shit takes me forever but I'm a perfectionist.

Forgot to remind this as well:  Drip edge goes OVER the felt on the rakes (angled L & R edges) & drip edge goes UNDER the vapor barrier for the eaves.  Get a 2" x 2" minimum & if you want the best, get a custom bend that is 4" on the deck x 2" on the face.  If you want to paint the drip edge, go with a custom fab shop that will make you some drip edge out of "Paint Grip".

What region do you live in?

[Okie State 3887]

I already bought galvanized drip edge for all around. I had been reading up on how to install correctly. Think it's 2x2. I live in Katy.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

If your Drip is from Lowe's / Depot, you ...could... return it.

@deadshank might be able to make you some custom if you're interested.  I'll let him speak to that endeavor.

[Okie State 3887]

I like the way you think, but at the end of the day it's still a playhouse. I've already gone overboard with materials so I'll just stick with what I have. I'd imagine most playhouses don't even have drip edge at all. I've probably spent twice what I originally budgeted for this thing.

[Okie State 3887]

The thing is built like a tank. I keep telling my wife it needs to stand up to hurricane force winds.

[Okie State 3887]

Is Deadshank in the Houston area? I need an opinion on fixing/tearing down the piece of shit patio cover the previous owners put on my house. I'm thinking it's probably a tear down, but would prefer not to sink a ton of money into it if I didn't have to. We plan to be in this house for 3-4 more years unless I get laid off in the meantime.

[deadshank 24654]

2 hours ago, Okie State said:

Is Deadshank in the Houston area? I need an opinion on fixing/tearing down the piece of shit patio cover the previous owners put on my house. I'm thinking it's probably a tear down, but would prefer not to sink a ton of money into it if I didn't have to. We plan to be in this house for 3-4 more years unless I get laid off in the meantime.

I have to get a draw from you prior to offering an opinion.

[Incredulity 11861]

3 hours ago, Okie State said:

The thing is built like a tank. I keep telling my wife it needs to stand up to hurricane force winds.

The hurricane picks it up and deposits it intact 5 miles away. Upside down in a tree of course.

[Orale 1176]

I want to build a covered patio onto the back of my house that is higher than the roofline of my house which is fairly low. My thought is to install a wide large capacity gutter onto the house eave and then a basically free standing patio structure that is two feet taller than the house roof. Hopefully the large gutter would divert heavy rain flows from the patio. Dumb idea? 

[ROFL BOX 6654]

6 hours ago, Orale said:

I want to build a covered patio onto the back of my house that is higher than the roofline of my house which is fairly low. My thought is to install a wide large capacity gutter onto the house eave and then a basically free standing patio structure that is two feet taller than the house roof. Hopefully the large gutter would divert heavy rain flows from the patio. Dumb idea? 

It can be done, however we need to consider the supporting components for the part that extends (floats?) over the existing house roof.

What town do you live in?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

6 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

It can be done, however we need to consider the supporting components for the part that extends (floats?) over the existing house roof.

What town do you live in?

Wouldn't that just be the roof deck, and cornice overhanging the beam supporting the rafters ?   You could let the cornice overhang above the existing roof a couple feet.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

Well, TBF we don't really know how far over the existing roof he wants this new dealio to extend plus what direction he intends the slope to run.

1 ft? 6 ft?

& YES, a large gutter would be a good idea, however in theory a common 6" K style with a 3×4 downspout is going to do everything needed.

Avoid large, oversized gutters if you can because they are only made in 10 ft. runs, require more labor & are prone to having issues @ each if the connections.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

1 minute ago, ROFL BOX said:

Well, TBF we don't really know how far over the existing roof he wants this new dealio to extend plus what direction he intends the slope to run.

1 ft? 6 ft?

& YES, a large gutter would be a good idea, however in theory a common 6" K style with a 3×4 downspout is going to do everything needed.

Avoid large, oversized gutters if you can because they are only made in 10 ft. runs, require more labor & are prone to having issues @ each if the connections.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

I'd be cantilevering new roof rafters up, and over the existing roof about 12" min- 24" max. (depending on the overhang of his existing cornice that could mean a 24"-48" cantilever of new roof rafters, and I'd run the slope away from the house 1/4: min.

[capnamerca 581]

Just wanted to chime in here and give thanks for being raised in a family of generally handy people. I'm no master craftsman, but I put together two shelves in the laundry room today at the request of the wife, made entire from "shit I had laying around the garage," and they look damn good. The goal is to be functional, but they're well thought out, strong AF, and cleaned up nice with a bit of caulk afterwards. As I jokingly texted my dad, they're even "about 92% level."

Love seeing everyones projects on this thread. Keep it going. I'm soon to start converting my walk-in attic to a golf sim room and theater. That's a much bigger project lol. I have what I need to get started, but i'll rapidly need to go to HD so I'm waiting until there's a BIT more clarity on CV19 before I really dig in. It should perfectly align with the weather getting balls hot again (neat).

Edited April 12, 2020 by capnamerca

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

This has been one of the projects over the the Covid 19 season:

The 2 original sets of rear sliding doors, and sidelites on the house never had a roof over them, so they were already beginning to suck when we bought the house.  The beams were a bit undersized, so they were starting to sag a bit. With a bit of time on my hands the last few weeks, I finally got around to replacing them with new French style doors, and fixed sidelites.

I bought the new French doors as returned items, so I got both of them for what one set would have cost.

Then a glass vendor I work with had 4 pieces of insulated glass left over from a project. I got all four for just about what one of them would have cost.

I field built sashes, and frames for the insulated glass panels.

I ripped out the existing sets of sliding doors, and repaired all the rot I found in the sills.  The rear wall of the house was supported at 4 points (one at each corner of the 10' wide sliding glass door openings). The center wall section between the original sets of doors had the most point load, and actually settled about an 1" over 30 +  years.

Using French style doors allowed me to add (2) sets of additional posts to each set of doors, so the load gets divided into 4 smaller loads.  New oil rubbed bronze hardware.  I think the whole thing ended up costing around $3,800.  Retail would have been $6,000 for materials, and add another 25% or so for labor.

 

The original sliders are the set to the right.  

Edited April 12, 2020 by Onboard 2.0

[Okie State 3887]

Just need a ridge cap and a few trim pieces and I'm finally done with this thing.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

Any generic 3Tab will be split within 2 or 3 years.  That slope is probably a 20:12 or something like that & it is gonna stress that for a ridge cap.

Get a single bundle of high profile ridge cap from whatever "real" roofing wholesaler is closest to you.  Probably gonna cost $ 50; make sure the person @ the counter knows you have a crazy steep slope going on.

Looks good otherwise.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

On 4/11/2020 at 7:38 PM, Orale said:

 Dumb idea? 

Let's get back to this idea.

Not really dumb, not exactly a wise move.  Unless we have photos or something sketched out, I won't know exactly how to advise.  Some thing it's easier to do because there's less interference from the existing roof, & while that's true it also adds extra labor for the floating portion AND extra labor for closing in the high side.

Where do you live?

[Okie State 3887]

Any generic 3Tab will be split within 2 or 3 years.  That slope is probably a 20:12 or something like that & it is gonna stress that for a ridge cap.

Get a single bundle of high profile ridge cap from whatever "real" roofing wholesaler is closest to you.  Probably gonna cost $ 50; make sure the person @ the counter knows you have a crazy steep slope going on.

Looks good otherwise.

Agreed on a generic ridge cap cracking. I actually did a ton of research on that and decided to just do metal. I wanted a piece of copper, but the price and availability isn't realistic. Decided to just go with galvanized to match the drip edge. That's actually what they used on the one that gave me inspiration for this project and while I wouldn't do it on my house, I think it works on a playhouse. We'll see.

[Orale 1176]

7 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Let's get back to this idea.

Not really dumb, not exactly a wise move.  Unless we have photos or something sketched out, I won't know exactly how to advise.  Some thing it's easier to do because there's less interference from the existing roof, & while that's true it also adds extra labor for the floating portion AND extra labor for closing in the high side.

Where do you live?

San Antonio. I'm thinking something like this,  

[Orale 1176]

Derp. Having issues with the image host. I'll post some photos in a bit.  

[Gil Bang 26176]

20 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Any generic 3Tab will be split within 2 or 3 years.  That slope is probably a 20:12 or something like that & it is gonna stress that for a ridge cap.

Get a single bundle of high profile ridge cap from whatever "real" roofing wholesaler is closest to you.  Probably gonna cost $ 50; make sure the person @ the counter knows you have a crazy steep slope going on.

Looks good otherwise.

I'm not a roofer, but I'd do the ridge in metal.  Copper would look very cool there. 

[Okie State 3887]

I'm not a roofer, but I'd do the ridge in metal.  Copper would look very cool there. 

I tried and failed with my plan to install an off the shelf one today. Will try to rig something up and maybe get a custom bent piece at a later date.

[ROFL BOX 6654]

Copper looks great right up until it turns green.  There are copper COLORED parts available, but on a per unit price, that's pricey.  Since you're in the HOU, again, @deadshank could prob. bend you something in their shop.

[deadshank 24654]

13 hours ago, Okie State said:

15 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

I'm not a roofer, but I'd do the ridge in metal.  Copper would look very cool there. 

I tried and failed with my plan to install an off the shelf one today. Will try to rig something up and maybe get a custom bent piece at a later date.

 

21 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

Copper looks great right up until it turns green.  There are copper COLORED parts available, but on a per unit price, that's pricey.  Since you're in the HOU, again, @deadshank could prob. bend you something in their shop.

What do you want?  We could probably scrap something together for you.

[deadshank 24654]

We got the flim, the flam, the flim flam and we have the one that goes "fweeeeeeeeeee!"

Want me to box it up?

[Spaulding Smails 1610]

On 4/12/2020 at 4:15 PM, Onboard 2.0 said:

This has been one of the projects over the the Covid 19 season:

The 2 original sets of rear sliding doors, and sidelites on the house never had a roof over them, so they were already beginning to suck when we bought the house.  The beams were a bit undersized, so they were starting to sag a bit. With a bit of time on my hands the last few weeks, I finally got around to replacing them with new French style doors, and fixed sidelites.

I bought the new French doors as returned items, so I got both of them for what one set would have cost.

Then a glass vendor I work with had 4 pieces of insulated glass left over from a project. I got all four for just about what one of them would have cost.

I field built sashes, and frames for the insulated glass panels.

I ripped out the existing sets of sliding doors, and repaired all the rot I found in the sills.  The rear wall of the house was supported at 4 points (one at each corner of the 10' wide sliding glass door openings). The center wall section between the original sets of doors had the most point load, and actually settled about an 1" over 30 +  years.

Using French style doors allowed me to add (2) sets of additional posts to each set of doors, so the load gets divided into 4 smaller loads.  New oil rubbed bronze hardware.  I think the whole thing ended up costing around $3,800.  Retail would have been $6,000 for materials, and add another 25% or so for labor.

 

The original sliders are the set to the right.  

This is damn fine work.  And, it looks like you didn't even fuck up your wood floors!  You saved a shit ton of money and the work is excellent from what I can see.  

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

9 minutes ago, Spaulding Smails said:

This is damn fine work.  And, it looks like you didn't even fuck up your wood floors!  You saved a shit ton of money and the work is excellent from what I can see.  

Much obliged. Don't look to closely, but it's pretty clean.  Yeah, saved a boat load of cash to spread out over a couple other projects.

 

 

[deadshank 24654]

On 4/12/2020 at 4:15 PM, Onboard 2.0 said:

This has been one of the projects over the the Covid 19 season:

The 2 original sets of rear sliding doors, and sidelites on the house never had a roof over them, so they were already beginning to suck when we bought the house.  The beams were a bit undersized, so they were starting to sag a bit. With a bit of time on my hands the last few weeks, I finally got around to replacing them with new French style doors, and fixed sidelites.

I bought the new French doors as returned items, so I got both of them for what one set would have cost.

Then a glass vendor I work with had 4 pieces of insulated glass left over from a project. I got all four for just about what one of them would have cost.

I field built sashes, and frames for the insulated glass panels.

I ripped out the existing sets of sliding doors, and repaired all the rot I found in the sills.  The rear wall of the house was supported at 4 points (one at each corner of the 10' wide sliding glass door openings). The center wall section between the original sets of doors had the most point load, and actually settled about an 1" over 30 +  years.

Using French style doors allowed me to add (2) sets of additional posts to each set of doors, so the load gets divided into 4 smaller loads.  New oil rubbed bronze hardware.  I think the whole thing ended up costing around $3,800.  Retail would have been $6,000 for materials, and add another 25% or so for labor.

 

The original sliders are the set to the right.  

I don't see stainless steel or copper door pans installed in the rough opening prior to installation of doors.  

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

26 minutes ago, deadshank said:

I don't see stainless steel or copper door pans installed in the rough opening prior to installation of doors.  

You roofers... always worrying abut water !!  You wouldn't see them here. I cleaned up the mess, and patched & repaired the bad sub flooring. There's now a screen porch roof extending out from that existing rear wall (built in '07), so water hasn't been an issue.  I didn't think they were necessary.

One detail I didn't get correct is the new side lite heads, and sills don't align with the door heads, and sills.  Because I was able to purchase  4 left over insulated glass panels for what 1 new panel would have cost ($250 for all 4 as opposed to $1,000 for 4 new units), I made the decision that wasn't a huge deal to me. If I was designing that for a client I would have specified they all align, unless there was some other reason I'd not require it.

[deadshank 24654]

24 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

You roofers... always worrying abut water !!  You wouldn't see them here. I cleaned up the mess, and patched & repaired the bad sub flooring. There's now a screen porch roof extending out from that existing rear wall (built in '07), so water hasn't been an issue.  I didn't think they were necessary.

One detail I didn't get correct is the new side lite heads, and sills don't align with the door heads, and sills.  Because I was able to purchase  4 left over insulated glass panels for what 1 new panel would have cost ($250 for all 4 as opposed to $1,000 for 4 new units), I made the decision that wasn't a huge deal to me. If I was designing that for a client I would have specified they all align, unless there was some other reason I'd not require it.

Roofing AND flashing, home chicken.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

1 minute ago, deadshank said:

Roofing AND flashing, home chicken.

Pffffft.... flashing......

[ROFL BOX 6654]

12 hours ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Pffffft.... flashing......

[Okie State 3887]

What do you want?  We could probably scrap something together for you.

Deadshank is helping me out with this by the way. Really appreciate it.

[Okie State 3887]

Well, update on this. Deadshank is making me a custom ridge cap and then I'm finished...or so I thought.

Dumbfuck neighbor hired dumbfucks to cut down one of the oldest and best trees in the neighborhood that shaded my backyard. Said dumbfucks dropped large branches from the tree on the playhouse. Have been on calls all morning so I haven't had a chance to assess the damage yet. Still standing, but I'll no doubt have to replace at least some or all shingles. I'll be irate if the cedar was damaged.

[dingleberryswitzer 2724]

7 minutes ago, Okie State said:

Well, update on this. Deadshank is making me a custom ridge cap and then I'm finished...or so I thought.

Dumbfuck neighbor hired dumbfucks to cut down one of the oldest and best trees in the neighborhood that shaded my backyard. Said dumbfucks dropped large branches from the tree on the playhouse. Have been on calls all morning so I haven't had a chance to assess the damage yet. Still standing, but I'll no doubt have to replace at least some or all shingles. I'll be irate if the cedar was damaged.

You might want to check your HOA rules. Mine has a rule saying we need permission to cut a tree over a certain diameter.  too late to save the tree, but they might fine him.  

[ROFL BOX 6654]

Depending on the tree & other regs, the CITY may also have rules against all of that (without proper permitting, of course).

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

[Okie State 3887]

Yeah I actually don't see anything in my HOA rules which is surprising. We're in unincorporated Fort Bend so I'm pretty sure anything goes here. I like my neighborhood overall, but the street behind us has some trashy people who make dumbass decisions like this. Looking forward to moving in a few years.

[Jkwellborn 7006]

Doesn’t his homeowners cover that? Or the tree services insurance?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

2 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:

Doesn’t his homeowners cover that? Or the tree services insurance?

His neighbors homeowners should cover it. He shouldn't have to deal with the tree guys, that's his neighbors issue.  Lots of those tree guys running around without liability insurance.