Woodworking, DIY, and home repair thread

Okie State · June 5, 2020

Fucking this.

Seems like I spend an inordinate amount of my time fixing other people's fuck ups.

Anastasis · June 5, 2020

On 5/26/2020 at 5:06 PM, deadshank said:

What happens when you get in a shooting war with your neighbor?

Doubles as a shooting bench.

Anastasis · June 5, 2020

2 hours ago, Okie State said:

2 hours ago, Anastasis said:

Fucking this.

Seems like I spend an inordinate amount of my time fixing other people's fuck ups.

Don't get me started. From door pans construction crews didn't install correctly, to unaddressed wood rot, to just be basically lazy with simple shit. Next house will be a new build so I at least have someone to yell at.

ROFL BOX · June 5, 2020

Shed.

utee94 · June 5, 2020

8 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Shed.

word

ROFL BOX · June 5, 2020

9 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Shed.

Would you believe I got my Shaggers² wrong? That was supposed to be directed at @Austinvines who I had met with in the early evening yesterday, not to @Anastasis .

utee94 · June 5, 2020

I just thought you were praising sheds, which would be appropriate for this thread.

Back in February, during the BeforeTimes, I had TuffShed come out and install a new 8x10 shed on the side of the house. The first part of that project was actually moving my fence and gate up about 14' toward the front of the house, to have room for the shed in the backyard. That was previously just some front/side yard on our corner lot that we weren't really using, so it's much better use of the space in the backyard, so the shed is tucked away but I can't actually see it from anywhere in the main part of the backyard.

Anyway, that shed became my tool storage and workshop, I custom built-in a ton of pegboard and workbenches, and there's room in the center for a lawnmower and edger (if I ever get one, right now I have a yard guy). And that meant I cleaned out the garage and can now get two cars back into it, plus it's all just a lot cleaner and more organized.

Pretty cool build-out on the inside of the shed, and the kids helped me paint the whole interior over a couple of weekends which was fun for them. I'll post some pictures one of these days.

Gil Bang · June 10, 2020

I just thought you were praising sheds, which would be appropriate for this thread.
Back in February, during the BeforeTimes, I had TuffShed come out and install a new 8x10 shed on the side of the house. The first part of that project was actually moving my fence and gate up about 14' toward the front of the house, to have room for the shed in the backyard. That was previously just some front/side yard on our corner lot that we weren't really using, so it's much better use of the space in the backyard, so the shed is tucked away but I can't actually see it from anywhere in the main part of the backyard.
Anyway, that shed became my tool storage and workshop, I custom built-in a ton of pegboard and workbenches, and there's room in the center for a lawnmower and edger (if I ever get one, right now I have a yard guy). And that meant I cleaned out the garage and can now get two cars back into it, plus it's all just a lot cleaner and more organized.
Pretty cool build-out on the inside of the shed, and the kids helped me paint the whole interior over a couple of weekends which was fun for them. I'll post some pictures one of these days.

You’re in the trust tree here. You can say “Mexican”.

utee94 · June 10, 2020

1 minute ago, Gil Bang said:

You’re in the trust tree here. You can say “Mexican”.

Ha!

But actually, he's not. He's a really skinny old white dude with a long white beard. Like a super-skinny Santa Claus.

He does pretty much everything-- lawnmowing, brush-clearing, bed-clearing, and he trims trees better than every professional service I used before I found him, but also costs half as much. He's awesome.

NorthLoop · June 15, 2020

wrong thread

Edited June 15, 2020 by NorthLoop
ooops

ROFL BOX · June 15, 2020

1 hour ago, NorthLoop said:

wrong thread

Yeah, "got wood" is for that other thread.

chikin23 · June 21, 2020

Found a few laminate planks (floating floor) that have slightly popped up. Would applying some glue on the seam keep them down?

Jkwellborn · June 21, 2020

Don’t they normally staple those?

chikin23 · June 21, 2020

Don’t they normally staple those?

It was installed before we moved in. Appears to be a tongue and groove click system from what I can see.

Dewey · June 21, 2020

8 hours ago, chikin23 said:

Found a few laminate planks (floating floor) that have slightly popped up. Would applying some glue on the seam keep them down?

No, the system is called "click and lock", very similar to tounge and groove, but different in that they lock together without the need of glue or nail. I can't tell without picture, but they usually pop up with they have been installed too tight to the wall, house shifts a bit and they buckle, or it was a poor install to begin with, doesn't take.much to mess up an edge and they don't properly lock in place. Or it could be that moisture got under them

Its a bit of a hassle to fix, but not all that bad, probably the hardest part is finding the floor at various stores, they don't keep the same product long enough. Hopefully you have some leftover, in which case you carefully remove the damaged section and patch in the new. Whats hard about that is finding the end, where you can take out a small section, you can end up chasing it down the hall and clear across a room.

Its been.more than a minute since I've had to deal with that stuff, I'm sure YouTube can help.

Edited June 21, 2020 by Dewey

chikin23 · June 21, 2020

No, the system is called "click and lock", very similar to tounge and groove, but different in that they lock together without the need of glue or nail. I can't tell without picture, but they usually pop up with they have been installed too tight to the wall, house shifts a bit and they buckle, or it was a poor install to begin with, doesn't take.much to mess up an edge and they don't properly lock in place. Or it could be that moisture got under them
Its a bit of a hassle to fix, but not all that bad, probably the hardest part is finding the floor at various stores, they don't keep the same product long enough. Hopefully you have some leftover, in which case you carefully remove the damaged section and patch in the new. Whats hard about that is finding the end, where you can take out a small section, you can end up chasing it down the hall and clear across a room.
Its been.more than a minute since I've had to deal with that stuff, I'm sure YouTube can help.

Does this picture help?

Jkwellborn · June 21, 2020

That looks a lot like my kitchen tile.

Dewey · June 21, 2020

That's a bit too close to really tell, but looks like a poor install. Either the end of the tounge was damaged when installed, or the groove was damaged or had the tiniest of particle in it, making it impossible to "lock"

kmac30 · June 29, 2020

We got a table that we’re using as a desk. I’m going to install an outlet so I can limit wires hanging around.

Reason for the post, I’m debating drilling a hole in the middle of one of the legs to run the wire to absolutely hide it. I have a 24 inch drill bit, but I’m a little nervous about blowing out the side and ruining the table. Has anyone done this? Is it a bad idea? Should I just use clear zip ties and run the wire up the back corner leg that should be pretty hidden?

Enchubben · June 29, 2020

3 hours ago, kmac30 said:

We got a table that we’re using as a desk. I’m going to install an outlet so I can limit wires hanging around.

Reason for the post, I’m debating drilling a hole in the middle of one of the legs to run the wire to absolutely hide it. I have a 24 inch drill bit, but I’m a little nervous about blowing out the side and ruining the table. Has anyone done this? Is it a bad idea? Should I just use clear zip ties and run the wire up the back corner leg that should be pretty hidden?

Wouldn’t it be easier to use a large staple or glue or something else less permanent behind the leg rather than go inside it? I’m sure you can find some sort of small hooks or something to keep the wire hidden that won’t require drilling through the middle of the leg.

Jkwellborn · June 29, 2020

They make wire stuff for offices. Order some. Or get wire looms and clips.

AUinHsv · June 29, 2020

I would not drill out the center of a weight supporting leg. Someone leans on it and it collapses.

Onboard 2.0 · June 29, 2020

2 minutes ago, AUinHsv said:

I would not drill out the center of a weight supporting leg. Someone leans on it and it collapses.

I disagree. I see hilarity ensuing...

Goofyboy · June 29, 2020

I used zip ties. Easier and easily cut to change out or add wires.

ROFL BOX · June 29, 2020

2 hours ago, Goofyboy said:

I used zip ties. Easier and easily cut to change out or add wires.

Can't be easier than the clear clips that Enchubben showed.

Granted, the doublestick whatever rarely holds as long as you want it to.

Okie State · June 29, 2020

I was hoping he'd buy a specialized $1K tool made for drilling out desk legs to run wires through.

kmac30 · June 30, 2020

Ok. I was just asking. Probably go something simple. Thanks for the input

Spaulding Smails · June 30, 2020

I'm late to the game, but I was going to suggest buying this to drill out the table leg. To make sure it's perfectly straight and whatnot.

https://www.elitemetaltools.com/tool-shop/products/jet-egh-2180-elite-21x80-large-spindle-bore-clutch-lathe-892250?sku=892250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8aGj3uCp6gIVDtvACh1_bwK3EAQYASABEgIp0fD_BwE

kmac30 · June 30, 2020

Great addition. Just ordered. I’ll update when finished.

Okie State · June 30, 2020

I wasn't talking shit. Just thought it was a good excuse to buy a new tool that you'd never use again.

AUinHsv · June 30, 2020

38 minutes ago, kmac30 said:

Great addition. Just ordered. I’ll update when finished.

Harbor Freight probably has one for less

kmac30 · June 30, 2020

I wasn't talking shit. Just thought it was a good excuse to buy a new tool that you'd never use again.

Hard to pass up. Save $10k? No brainer.

BayouBill · July 1, 2020

22 hours ago, Spaulding Smails said:

I'm late to the game, but I was going to suggest buying this to drill out the table leg. To make sure it's perfectly straight and whatnot.

https://www.elitemetaltools.com/tool-shop/products/jet-egh-2180-elite-21x80-large-spindle-bore-clutch-lathe-892250?sku=892250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8aGj3uCp6gIVDtvACh1_bwK3EAQYASABEgIp0fD_BwE

Free shipping!

Shoxthemonkey · July 9, 2020

My Grandfather's 50's Craftsman tablesaw has been sitting in one of my outbuildings for 35 years. I pulled it out to make some more space for other junk and decided to get it running again. I bought new arbor bearings and grabbed a motor from our assortment at work. It took the better part of last weekend to get all of the mud dauber shit and rust off of it. I rattle-canned the base and added new casters that matched the originals. It turned out pretty good. It has a bit of blade wobble and I'm not sure if that is from the arbor or the cheap ass DeWalt blade I put on it. I'll check it with an indicator and turn/face the arbor if it's crooked. I'm looking for some batwing extensions to make it friendlier for plywood ripping but I haven't found any that don't cost more to ship than to purchase. I'm looking forward to making some picture frames from the large lot of walnut, maple and oak lumber that my Dad left behind.

I welded up a bracket to hold a vintage Craftsman safety switch. Maybe Grandpa would have died with all of his fingers if he had installed one of them 50 years ago.

AUinHsv · July 9, 2020

Was not going to mention the lack of anything resembling a safety guard or similar stuff.... My dad built his own table saw back then. Made a stand from plywood, attached a motor etc. Can't remember if he had switch or just plugged the motor in

Shoxthemonkey · July 9, 2020

Yeah, it's far from finished. I'm retrofitting a newer style blade guard from a later Craftsman saw. The original guard for this model is cumbersome and hard to find.

Mcmaster has some belt guards that are easy to modify. Already on order.

fattyflattie · July 10, 2020

Avatar checks out.

Okie State · July 12, 2020

Replaced the disintegrated particle board cabinet floor under my kitchen sink. Will paint this with exterior paint and add a drip tray in case I get another slow drip.

Onboard 2.0 · July 12, 2020

Just now, Okie State said:

Replaced the disintegrated particle board cabinet floor under my kitchen sink. Will paint this with exterior paint and add a drip tray in case I get another slow drip.

I just refreshed my under cabinet shelves. I used an enamel cabinet paint. It dries hard, and things don't stick to it like they can to latex.

Okie State · July 12, 2020

I just refreshed my under cabinet shelves. I used an enamel cabinet paint. It dries hard, and things don't stick to it like they can to latex.

I might do that too. I have some leftover Insl X Cabinet Coat that I sprayed all the cabinets with a couple years ago. Not sure if it's still good though. If not I have some SW Emerald exterior.

Onboard 2.0 · July 12, 2020

2 minutes ago, Okie State said:

5 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

I just refreshed my under cabinet shelves. I used an enamel cabinet paint. It dries hard, and things don't stick to it like they can to latex.

I might do that too. I have some leftover Insl X Cabinet Coat that I sprayed all the cabinets with a couple years ago. Not sure if it's still good though. If not I have some SW Emerald exterior.

Those enamels just dry harder than a latex.

Okie State · July 12, 2020

Yeah I can't stand when a Latex stays tacky. I've had pretty good luck with Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and their Emerald exterior. I also like their Urethane enamel which I used for my front and back doors. The Cabinet Coat is definitely nice though. It dries fast and cures to a hard coating.

capnamerca · July 14, 2020

Home construction question for the group. I'm starting a project to finish out part of our walk-in attic space - home theater and golf simulator room woot. The space is above the garage, and has a high roof line situation (about ~16-17'). I'm going to be putting in a ceiling around 11-12' depending on final height requirements for the golf sim (and golf swing). There's a single front-facing window, above which is an interesting brace - pictures below. The brace runs vertically, and attaches to the front wall as well as the center roof beam. I *think* this is a sort of anti-sway or anti-torque bracing for when the house was still mid-frame, and possibly not needed anymore (I can move the low-voltage wiring with ease). Two questions:

1. Do you agree or disagree with my diagnosis?

2. I'd like to either remove it, or relocate it, as the bottom is in the way of where I want the eventual ceiling to be. I'm happy to replace it higher up if it's serving a current functional purpose. Thoughts?

Edited July 14, 2020 by capnamerca

davidg · July 14, 2020

If you remove it, what's the worst that could happen? Your garge upstairs fall down? Put me in the you might want to contact an engineer/architect and ask that question.

capnamerca · July 14, 2020

10 minutes ago, davidg said:

If you remove it, what's the worst that could happen? Your garge upstairs fall down? Put me in the you might want to contact an engineer/architect and ask that question.

I mean, there's a reason I'm asking questions before I do anything ...

drt · July 14, 2020

Without seeing the rest of the framing, no idea. But I'd guess it has the effect of shortening the unsupported span of the ridge beam, meaning removal would involve more than you'd think. Call an engineer, ours in Centex is cheap for a quick question like this ($150) and you don't have to worry about your house collapsing.

drt · July 14, 2020

NVM, after a quick google you have a ridge beam there, meaning the 2x6 is spec'd for the load and unsupported length is highly important. You can't remove the support without engineering around it. An actual engineer can tell you how, if it's possible.

Onboard 2.0 · July 14, 2020

Wrap it with 1 x material or rough hewn beam skin material, make it a decorative element in the room, and call it a day.

You definitely have a ridge beam situation, but I'm not sure what support that kicker is giving you. Any force/load it's receiving from the ridge beam would seem to want to force the end wall out of plane (maybe not). It definitely shortens the beam span by several feet. I'm an architect so I know a little about lots of structural issues so I always keep my engineers number handy.

Man, 24" roof rafter spans..... Eventually you may see nice little divet/swales form between the rafter spans, and typically a ridge beam, with what looks like an LVL (laminated veneer beam) is 2 members not one with (2) 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 support posts at each end.

capnamerca · July 14, 2020

Appreciate the insight here, all. I'll probably have someone come look at it; drt mind dropping me a PM with your guys' number? I'm actually more interested at this point in making sure it's done right, since I"m finishing out that space it just makes it harder to fix something in the future.

Onboard, you've got the right plan; I've got no issues furring around it when the time comes, just wanted to see what my options are.

Dewey · July 15, 2020

You said you're putting a ceiling in at 11 or 12', where does your top plate sit? Same as the header height at the window? What type of ceiling? I wouldn't move that brace until you have a temporary brace up, then remove, a little more fram work, cut that brace to fit further up the wall.

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