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Mojo Hand

By Mojo Hand
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Antidean
Antidean

My son searches river and creek beds for arrowheads, he's found several hundred. He's quite good at finding them. Built this for him to store and show off some of his better ones. Made it wi

Antidean
Antidean

Needed a table for our foyer.  Built this from soft maple.  

heso
heso

This is my first go at anything more substantial than cutting boards and construction lumber garage shelves. Simple storage for tools / miscellanea for the basement. The top 4 drawers have the div

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gsoda3

gsoda3 3358

Posted
Posted
On 11/5/2018 at 10:21 PM, drt said:

Baltic birch ply from Europe is pretty much the best ply you can buy.  No voids so it's very consistent thickness, one face is typically clear so it looks nice, plies are all oriented across each others grain so it stays flatter, and all plies are actually birch instead of having softwood species mixed in the middle layers (helps hold screws and joinery).  Chinese knockoffs aren't as good.

If you're just talking the birch plywood from home depot, it typically has a less busy grain pattern in the veneer layer than Oak (looks better painted, and if staining doesn't look like cabinetry from the 80s).  All that stuff has a paper thin layer of whatever hardwood it's named after, the rest of the plies are a mishmash.

where would you get it from?  

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Spaulding Smails

Spaulding Smails 1610

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Echoing what others have said, Fine Lumber and Dakota are the best for finish grade plywood and lumber in Austin.  Houston Hardwoods and Mason's Mill in H-Town are legit.  We actually buy a ton from Mason's Mill and have it shipped in for larger projects.  They're cheaper even when factoring in delivery on larger orders, plus they have more knifing capabilities than most.  

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retsevlys

retsevlys 408

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Posted

Last year I made my dad some tap handles for his homebrew kegerator.  He alternates his brews, so I wanted to make them where he could write what the beer was on the tap.IMG-4007.jpg

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I'm not really liking this, as it hides the beauty in the grain.  I initially cut four handles, and I'm trying to see what I can do with the fourth.

IMG-4954.jpg

IMG-4955.jpg

What do y'all think?

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gsoda3

gsoda3 3358

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On 12/17/2018 at 9:44 AM, davidg said:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Plywood-Project-Panels/Birch/N-5yc1vZc7hmZ1z11dkr?storeSelection=6586,6838,6512,6506,6828

 

ETA:  Houston Hardwoods will have it and also give you an exotic wood boner

in austin, but thanks.  i usually go to austin fine lumber but i'd never seen it there, i suppose it's special order.  and is that pricing right?  $295 for a 3x5 panel?  

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davidg

davidg 4057

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, gsoda3 said:

in austin, but thanks.  i usually go to austin fine lumber but i'd never seen it there, i suppose it's special order.  and is that pricing right?  $295 for a 3x5 panel?  

That's an 1.5" thick Birch countertop.  Not specifically plywood.   Looking closer, HD has some birch plywood 2' x 4' panels but it isn't specifically baltic birch.  I would suggest going and looking there or Lowes and seeing if those panels will meet your needs.  If not, contact AFL and ask them about true baltic birch panels.

 

ETA:  It looks like AFL has BB in 4x8 and 5x5 panels

https://www.finelumber.com/solid-panel-inventory

 

Edited by davidg
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elfenix

elfenix 34658

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This slab had some really nice burl on one end and bookmatched pretty well.   On my phone it shows up much closer to the true redder color than my laptop.  Weird.  The burl area has a 3d effect as you move over it.  The crusty old sawmill guy even stopped his saw and dusted this slab off to take a better look at it.  
I put around 10 coats of wipe-on poly on it so it should hold up against water rings should some asshole put his drink on it.


Not really. Laptops tend to have garbage screens whereas phones (particularly high end ones) have pretty high gamut and accuracy.
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Updawg

Updawg 2378

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Follow up to my previous post about installing recessed lighting in my kitchen. A picture of my kitchen from when I moved in my house five years ago popped up on my phone today.

2012 vs 2018. Did everything myself except the granite installation.63cea327804d826e8078094cea114053.jpgb4f4830562ba0cf9e642035cf7cf6ef0.jpg
Looks good. How did you paint the cabinets
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AUinHsv

AUinHsv 583

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On my 1960's house I redid the cabinets similar to his. Mine were black and I wanted white. The doors were sprayed with like 4 coats of oil based white and I did the rest with small rollers. Again four coats. The small rollers made it look like sprayed. I would not do it this way again. Took way too long. With hindsight I would mask everything and use spray gun inside the kitchen. The time to mask would have been less than using those rollers. Spraying the doors was quick - the hardest part was changing the cabinet knobs from a handle with two screws to a single screw knob. Had to fill a hole and sand a lot to make it smooth. Plus I had a ton of doors. The previous owner put about 20 small cabinets around the top at the ceiling. Each door was about one foot and it took a while just to remove them and put them back.

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Okie State

Okie State 3887

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Looks good. How did you paint the cabinets

A shitload of work. Removed the doors and drawers so I could do them separately from the boxes. Wiped down, scrubbed with Krud Kutter, wiped down again, and lightly scuffed everything with scour pads. Masked off everything around the boxes and rolled/sprayed them. I started out using mini foam rollers, but ended up just rolling the primer and spraying the finish coats using a Wagner sprayer. Rolled/sprayed the doors and drawers in my garage. Primed with Zinsser BIN to block out any remaining grease. Painted with a paint called Cabinet Coat sold at Benjamin Moore stores. It was expensive, but dried super fast and had a nice hard finish. 

 

I also had to fill/sand holes from previous knobs because they were all misaligned. That took a long time, but was worth it.

 

Also also, I used a router to remove the center panels from a few doors and replaced with glass. YouTube videos showing how to do that.

 

I think it turned out pretty good, but took me forever.

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RMac5

RMac5 1552

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On 12/30/2018 at 6:17 PM, Okie State said:

Follow up to my previous post about installing recessed lighting in my kitchen. A picture of my kitchen from when I moved in my house five years ago popped up on my phone today.

2012 vs 2018. Did everything myself except the granite installation.63cea327804d826e8078094cea114053.jpgb4f4830562ba0cf9e642035cf7cf6ef0.jpg

That looks fantastic! 

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Anastasis

Anastasis 23699

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Probably a stupid electrical issue here, if somebody has some thoughts. 

End of run receptacle not working, but has worked in past. The immediately preceding receptacle that it wires to works fine.

I am getting nothing when I test the end of run hot.

I get voltage on both hot posts on the preceding receptacle.

I get continuity on neutral and ground, no continuity on hot and ground (I believe this is expected). 

I had to put everything back in the wall and step away for something else, but going to jump back into this tomorrow. What other diagnostics should I be running. I plan to check continuity between hot and hot on the two receptacles first thing.

Am I missing something stupid and obvious. Its 12g yellow wire throughout. This is an interior island, there is no chance of rodents or anything getting into to wall in this location. 

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Anastasis

Anastasis 23699

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Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, MAGS® said:

I would remove receptacle and test wires from behind.  Could just be bad receptacle, not common but does happen.

I was testing at the wires with the end of run receptacle removes I also tested the receptacle when it was as removed at it’s good. 

Edited by Anastasis
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Anastasis

Anastasis 23699

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Screw terminals are tight. Fight thing checked. Not using the stabs in the back. All the plugs are on a gfci at the front of the chain. It’s a relatively new gfci and tests good. All the other plugs in the chain work fine and trip the gfci when tested.  It’s possible that there is a splice in the line behind the wall, but that would be a pretty stupid install since they are about 3’ apart. 

Im going to pull both the receptacles this afternoon run continuity tests at lines. 

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

Posted
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16 minutes ago, Anastasis said:

I think I found the issue. There was another receptacle wired between the two, on the other side of the island, under the counter and out of sight. That receptacle appears to need replacing. doh. 

Whew, I was getting ready to just tell you to start sticking a fork in each receptacle till you found the dead one....

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Anastasis

Anastasis 23699

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Posted (edited)

So I am just going to turn this page into electrical questions this weekend.

After I replaced receptacle above, all worked fine.  Went ahead and replaced all the other receptacles on that run.

Then went about changing out a receptacle in the living room has not worked since we moved in.  The impacted circuit feeds an outlet along the ground, which then goes to an outlet above the fireplace. Found out why there was a problem pretty quickly. Eek.

AA85-DE60-BD42-41-E4-A156-7-E1-DDA92-EF8

F3-BC0-C0-F-8789-4902-A6-DB-9-DE9-CF77-D

F3-BC0-C0-F-8789-4902-A6-DB-9-DE9-CF77-D

 

This looks like they tried to direct wire all three into the receptacle using the screw and the push hole in the back.  It is my understanding that these should be pigtailed, and then run to the receptacle. Is it acceptable to pigtail two of the cables and use both screws in the receptacle, or should I pigtail all three together and just run a single black and single white to the receptable.  The grounds are already pigtailed.

 

Edited by Anastasis
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