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Average cost of a new roof

Nueces River Rat
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Nueces River Rat

Nueces River Rat 5796

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My roof is 15 years old and I'm doing some budgeting right now towards replacing it.   It's the original roof and I guess it's done well considering all the jazz about 20 to 30 years of life for a roof is void down here because of the heat and other weather extremes.

What am I looking at on average per square foot for your typical asphalt shingle roofing job?   Mind you I live on the gulf coast and for that reason it has to be windstorm certified for insurance purposes. 

I was hoping to avoid this considering we are planning on moving in five years, but after every heavy rain even we've had the last year or so, I find more of my asphalt on my driveway and gutters as the shingles are losing  it.   This is one thing that will add value back to the house,  so I might as well get it done.  

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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GAF Timberline with GAF Timbertex hip / ridge trim, GAF Prostarter, 6 nails per shingle, replace all penetration flashings, Rhino 20 synthetic felt, GAF Stormguard peel and stick in valleys, new pre-finished step flashing and 2" x 2" drip edge and certified windstorm engineer's inspection:  budget $300 / square.  Prolly get it done for $275 / square.  All assuming normal pitch and no goofy architectural features or low-slope roofs.  

You could sub out all CertainTeed products in lieu of the GAF products and be in the same spot.  

GAF and CertainTeed are on approved materials list as they have provided all of the required engineers' wind uplift reports to TDI and their requirements have been met.  

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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2 minutes ago, deadshank said:

GAF Timberline with GAF Timbertex hip / ridge trim, GAF Prostarter, 6 nails per shingle, replace all penetration flashings, Rhino 20 synthetic felt, GAF Stormguard peel and stick in valleys, new pre-finished step flashing and 2" x 2" drip edge and certified windstorm engineer's inspection:  budget $300 / square.  Prolly get it done for $275 / square.  All assuming normal pitch and no goofy architectural features or low-slope roofs.  

You could sub out all CertainTeed products in lieu of the GAF products and be in the same spot.  

GAF and CertainTeed are on approved materials list as they have provided all of the required engineers' wind uplift reports to TDI and their requirements have been met.  

I'm sorry, but what are these "goofy architectural features" you so flippantly allude to ???!!!! ............ Sir.....

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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1 minute ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

I'm sorry, but what are these "goofy architectural features" you so flippantly allude to ???!!!! ............ Sir.....

Turrets, dead valleys, chimneys in valleys, window pans, gambrel roofs and anything you put on paper. 

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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Just now, deadshank said:

Turrets, dead valleys, chimneys in valleys, window pans, gambrel roofs and anything you put on paper. 

I get the dead valleys and chimneys in valleys.  Window pans ?  you mean when a roof is cut in to to allow a window to work ?  Hate that detail about 99% of the time, it can look like a mistake by the architect.

Not a fan of a gambrel roof ?  Love 'em.  Detailed correctly they're one of the most beautiful roofs out there IMO.  What issues do you see with them ?

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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Just now, Onboard 2.0 said:

I get the dead valleys and chimneys in valleys.  Window pans ?  you mean when a roof is cut in to to allow a window to work ?  Hate that detail about 99% of the time, it can look like a mistake by the architect.

Not a fan of a gambrel roof ?  Love 'em.  Detailed correctly they're one of the most beautiful roofs out there IMO.  What issues do you see with them ?

The window pan you describe is what I mentioned.  

I, too, love standing seam gambrel roofs to get around height restrictions.  Standing seam copper over a slate roof is awesome.  We do them all of the time.  

The goofy architectural stuff comment was meant only for NRR's request for an average cost per square.  Those details I described as "goofy" drive up "per square" budget pricing and most re-roofing contractors either don't know how to do them correctly and butcher them or exclude them from their bids.  

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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Just now, deadshank said:

The window pan you describe is what I mentioned.  

I, too, love standing seam gambrel roofs to get around height restrictions.  Standing seam copper over a slate roof is awesome.  We do them all of the time.  

The goofy architectural stuff comment was meant only for NRR's request for an average cost per square.  Those details I described as "goofy" drive up "per square" budget pricing and most re-roofing contractors either don't know how to do them correctly and butcher them or exclude them from their bids.  

Gotcha....  Love a copper roof, but damn they're pricey. Slate's $1,200-$1,500 a square around here (Buckingham slate).

I always try to get the homeowners have me meet with the roofer, and GC before he begins work to make sure everyone is on the same page.  I'm doing a lot of renovations additions right now on old homes (20's-50's) so roofing details are really critical at those now to old intersections.

 

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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Posted
Just now, Onboard 2.0 said:

Gotcha....  Love a copper roof, but damn they're pricey. Slate's $1,200-$1,500 a square around here (Buckingham slate).

I always try to get the homeowners have me meet with the roofer, and GC before he begins work to make sure everyone is on the same page.  I'm doing a lot of renovations additions right now on old homes (20's-50's) so roofing details are really critical at those now to old intersections.

 

Yep. That transition from slate or any other steep slope to standing seam gambrel has to be done right at framing.  It's super simple (essentially a 2x4 on end to make a 3.5" tall wall) but most can't grasp the concept until they do it once and then they finally get it.  

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6655

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18 hours ago, Nueces River Rat said:

My roof is 15 years old...

words

words

words

 ...so I might as well get it done.  

What's your zip code?

& Yeah, the $$ DeadShank quoted isn't too terribly far off, however as he will attest, every roof is different & unique,  even if it's an identical design to the house 1 block over.  If you can wait it out & are in most of the urban areas of Texas (especially the MetroPlex), the odds of having hail are greatly in your favor.
That said, you (& everyone reading this) should examine your policy as more & more, we're seeing ACV only for a 20 year (3 Tab) roof that is 15 years old or more & for 30 year roofs, 25 years & up they are also not paying depreciation.  Also, learn & know your deductible.  The new Texas law coming 01 Sept. makes it 100% illegal to have a contractor eat your deductible.

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Nueces River Rat

Nueces River Rat 5796

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2 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

What's your zip code?

& Yeah, the $$ DeadShank quoted isn't too terribly far off, however as he will attest, every roof is different & unique,  even if it's an identical design to the house 1 block over.  If you can wait it out & are in most of the urban areas of Texas (especially the MetroPlex), the odds of having hail are greatly in your favor.
That said, you (& everyone reading this) should examine your policy as more & more, we're seeing ACV only for a 20 year (3 Tab) roof that is 15 years old or more & for 30 year roofs, 25 years & up they are also not paying depreciation.  Also, learn & know your deductible.  The new Texas law coming 01 Sept. makes it 100% illegal to have a contractor eat your deductible.

78410

And  yes I've read up on some of these details and believe me I would love to have a weather assist, but we don't get the hail with ordinary thunderstorms like the DFW area gets nor do I really want a tropical system to have to do the deed if you know what I mean.    We were lucky Harvey didn't do a whole lot of damage in my zip code, but it sure did a few zip codes over.   Nope, I want my remaining five years in this area to be hurricane free.  

Slowly more insurers are coming back to this area and writing windstorm coverage which is a good thing because TWIA is the biggest bundle of red tape BS.  BUT many won't touch you if your roof is over a certain age or shows big time wear and tear or will adjust your policy accordingly.   

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Nueces River Rat

Nueces River Rat 5796

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11 hours ago, deadshank said:

GAF Timberline with GAF Timbertex hip / ridge trim, GAF Prostarter, 6 nails per shingle, replace all penetration flashings, Rhino 20 synthetic felt, GAF Stormguard peel and stick in valleys, new pre-finished step flashing and 2" x 2" drip edge and certified windstorm engineer's inspection:  budget $300 / square.  Prolly get it done for $275 / square.  All assuming normal pitch and no goofy architectural features or low-slope roofs.  

You could sub out all CertainTeed products in lieu of the GAF products and be in the same spot.  

GAF and CertainTeed are on approved materials list as they have provided all of the required engineers' wind uplift reports to TDI and their requirements have been met.  

Thanks for this.   The numbers you posted are pretty much what a few Google searches spit out.    I assume my pitch is pretty normal for a  2500 sq foot one story custom home built in the 2004 with none of those special features that would require some sort of up charges or whatever.   Anyhow I am going to try to stretch it out as long as I can, but I think I'll have to act before too long especially if we get into another long term wet pattern and more of my roof ends up on the driveway and gutters.   If I have to spend 8k to add another 10 k or more value back to the house for a future sale, I might as get it done and avoid the longer term consequences and of course having a new roof is a good sales point.   It helped us when we sold our first home in 2004 when had the roof from that 80's built home replaced a few years before we sold it.   

Edited by Nueces River Rat
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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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9 minutes ago, Nueces River Rat said:

Thanks for this.   The numbers you posted are pretty much what a few Google searches spit out.    I assume my pitch is pretty normal for a  2500 sq foot one story custom home built in the 2004 with none of those special features that would require some sort of up charges or whatever.   Anyhow I am going to try to stretch it out as long as I can, but I think I'll have to act before too long especially if we get into another long term wet pattern and more of my roof ends up on the driveway and gutters.   If I have to spend 8k to add another 10 k or more value back to the house for a future sale, I might as get it done and avoid the longer term consequences and of course having a new roof is a good sales point.   It helped us when we sold our first home in 2004 when had the roof from that 80's built home replaced a few years before we sold it.   

Where is your place?

nevemind.  I saw it upthread

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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4 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

FYI, compared to Houston or Drip, total prices per square are a bit more than what  Shank mentioned; seeing $ 325 & up for any basic 6 nail shingle & then add an engineer's cert. on top of that.

Engineer certification ?  Has to be inspected and signed off on ?

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Bevo

Bevo 13898

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18 hours ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Gotcha....  Love a copper roof, but damn they're pricey. Slate's $1,200-$1,500 a square around here (Buckingham slate).

I always try to get the homeowners have me meet with the roofer, and GC before he begins work to make sure everyone is on the same page.  I'm doing a lot of renovations additions right now on old homes (20's-50's) so roofing details are really critical at those now to old intersections. 

 

Are the Boral cement shakes less than slate? I guess the better question is are there slate substitutes that can save the homeowner money? I know with tile there are lighter products available so that you don't need to re-engineer the roof.

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6655

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14 minutes ago, Bevo said:

Are the Boral cement shakes less than slate? I guess the better question is are there slate substitutes that can save the homeowner money? I know with tile there are lighter products available so that you don't need to re-engineer the roof.

There are steel products available - stone coated & other finishes - that have the appearance of slate but don't have the weight, so they won't need that added structural engineering.  If you have any kind of an HOA restriction, it would be advisable to check with them prior to going this route or even examining the products.  No sense in doing 3 days worth of research just to find out your neighborhood busybodies are going to say "NYET".

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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33 minutes ago, Bevo said:

Are the Boral cement shakes less than slate? I guess the better question is are there slate substitutes that can save the homeowner money? I know with tile there are lighter products available so that you don't need to re-engineer the roof.

I'm sure dead shank can chime in better than me, but in my time as an architect there have been any number of faux slate products over the years, and 99% of them have failed.

I'm not familiar with the Boral brand, but Boral is a pretty solid company. If it hasn't been in the field a min. of 10 years I won't specify an exterior material. For roofs I'd stretch that out to 15-20 years before I'd specify it.

Vande Hey Raleigh makes a concrete and ceramic roof tile. They've been around for a while so I'm assuming they last. At $1,200 and up a square for real slate the faux slate products seem to come in around the $500-$700 a sq. price range.

Da Vinci males a faux slate roof product, but I think it's a polymer/plasticine matrix product.

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Bevo

Bevo 13898

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2 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

There are steel products available - stone coated & other finishes - that have the appearance of slate but don't have the weight, so they won't need that added structural engineering.  If you have any kind of an HOA restriction, it would be advisable to check with them prior to going this route or even examining the products.  No sense in doing 3 days worth of research just to find out your neighborhood busybodies are going to say "NYET".

Do you like this route? At some point, I want to build a small cabin in Whitefish, MT and want to keep the price reasonable as it is a vacation home but I want it to have a nice finish out.

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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7 minutes ago, Bevo said:

Do you like this route? At some point, I want to build a small cabin in Whitefish, MT and want to keep the price reasonable as it is a vacation home but I want it to have a nice finish out.

I haven't seen any of these that were very durable looking. They seem like something you'd see on a mobile home.  Your results may vary.

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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4 hours ago, Bevo said:

Are the Boral cement shakes less than slate? I guess the better question is are there slate substitutes that can save the homeowner money? I know with tile there are lighter products available so that you don't need to re-engineer the roof.

Boral extruded concrete tile (shake is one of the profiles) will be less than slate.  You will have a weight problem at close to 1000 lbs per square dead load just for the tile and before accessories.  There are lightweight extruded concrete tiles by Boral but I don't know if they are good for freeze / thaw zones like MT.  

In any case, your assembly and flashing details will be more important than the tiles themselves.  Bad roofers make good products underperform.  

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Bevo

Bevo 13898

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18 minutes ago, deadshank said:

2 different companies.  1 roofing and the other home building / remodeling. 

Located in Houston. 

Thanks. PM me with the company names. I have family in Houston (Memorial). If they need work, I'll have them give you a call.

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6655

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4 hours ago, Bevo said:

Do you like this route? At some point, I want to build a small cabin in Whitefish, MT and want to keep the price reasonable as it is a vacation home but I want it to have a nice finish out.

Honestly, I'd go with Cedar Shake or a Snap Lock for a premium product or a Dimensional / Architectural for a more cost efficient product.  Overall, you're gonna want to go with something that fits the aesthetic of the area & IMO, none of the stone coated steel fit that description.  Plus, it will be much more difficult to get a specialist in that area, someone who knows the in's & outs of a stone coated whatever.  You -might- get someone who has good experience in slate; ask for examples of their copper work for flashing, chimneys, skylights, roof to wall joints, pipe penetrations, etc. & when they send you photos, post them here for critique.

 

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Dbeasy

Dbeasy 15596

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I posted in the other thread and then found this. I’m also trying to get a rough estimate for a 3564 sq ft one story house with high arches. Roof is 16 years old in sugar land. I’m selling it and buyers wants some sort of roof credit. I don’t understand what $300/ square means.

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Dbeasy

Dbeasy 15596

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A square = 100 sq. foot.  They want a credit to replace a roof that will cost $300 a square (100 sq. ft.).  

Thanks. My $300 reference is to the above posts, not what buyer is asking for. They haven’t provided a number. I’m trying to roughly estimate what the number would be for a roof for the house described above.
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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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2 hours ago, Dbeasy said:


Thanks. My $300 reference is to the above posts, not what buyer is asking for. They haven’t provided a number. I’m trying to roughly estimate what the number would be for a roof for the house described above.

Gotcha, that number is usually based on material or material, and labor costs.  It goes u0p or down based on the complexity of the roof, and the material selected.

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Incredulity

Incredulity 11876

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11 hours ago, Dbeasy said:

I posted in the other thread and then found this. I’m also trying to get a rough estimate for a 3564 sq ft one story house with high arches. Roof is 16 years old in sugar land. I’m selling it and buyers wants some sort of roof credit. I don’t understand what $300/ square means.

Tell them to fuck themselves the roof condition is reflected in the asking price.

 

or

 

offer $5k credit

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6655

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For what reason do they think they are entitled to a new roof?

If it is a common "Dimensional" shingle that is 16 years old, it still has approx. 46+ % of it's anticipated life left.

If it simply looks old, a professional cleaning could be done to knock the algae off & get it back to looking 3 to 5 years old.

Can you screenshot a fairly tight Google Maps image & delete street names, then post that here?

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Bozo_Casanova

Bozo_Casanova 26851

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bumping this thread with new questions for @deadshank @ROFL BOX and @atx_roofer and @CHAD BRISCOE the hailstorm in Austin last week kicked the shit out of all three cars and apparently the roof. A guy from Phoenix roofing who went door to door over here got up on the roof and told me i had 20-30 impacts per square and to file a claim because I should expect a full replacement. So, I'm filing a claim. 

I've been checking out prices and it looks like the price of asphalt replacement for a roof like mine (~2K ft, 4/12 pitch, 12 slopes) is somewhere between 6-9K, or $3-$5/sf. Meanwhile a metal roof company my neighbor works for (Green knight) gave my an estimate for $16500 for a 26 Guage tier 2 kynar if I want to go that route.  

Questions
1) Should I have a roofer out there to argue with the insurance adjuster?

2) What is a tier 2 Kynar and is 26 guage good enough for the hail/wind here?

3) I've never done this before - do I get the check from insurance net of the deductible, or do I pay the roofer the deductible and the insurance company pays them the rest?

4) Is the price for a metal roof good? 

5) I don't see a line item in the estimate from the metal roof guys to remove the old roof, but there is an estimate for underlayments and so forth. WOuld they remove the old roof and does it matter?

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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12 minutes ago, Bozo_Casanova said:

bumping this thread with new questions for @deadshank @ROFL BOX and @atx_roofer and @CHAD BRISCOE the hailstorm in Austin last week kicked the shit out of all three cars and apparently the roof. A guy from Phoenix roofing who went door to door over here got up on the roof and told me i had 20-30 impacts per square and to file a claim because I should expect a full replacement. So, I'm filing a claim. 

I've been checking out prices and it looks like the price of asphalt replacement for a roof like mine (~2K ft, 4/12 pitch, 12 slopes) is somewhere between 6-9K, or $3-$5/sf. Meanwhile a metal roof company my neighbor works for (Green knight) gave my an estimate for $16500 for a 26 Guage tier 2 kynar if I want to go that route.  

Questions
1) Should I have a roofer out there to argue with the insurance adjuster?

2) What is a tier 2 Kynar and is 26 guage good enough for the hail/wind here?

3) I've never done this before - do I get the check from insurance net of the deductible, or do I pay the roofer the deductible and the insurance company pays them the rest?

4) Is the price for a metal roof good? 

5) I don't see a line item in the estimate from the metal roof guys to remove the old roof, but there is an estimate for underlayments and so forth. WOuld they remove the old roof and does it matter?

Responses:

  1. Is there anything to argue about?  Keep stormchaser roofers away from your property.  They chase storms, maximize your claim, minimize the roof they give you, typically do bad to just OK work and are all about the "business" and not about "the roofing product."  Let the dust settle and don't be the first to react.  Get a local guy that is a roofing company first and sometimes does storm work.  @ROFL BOX is a good, local example for a contractor that gets roofing instead of only selling roofs for insurance dollars.
  2. "Tier 2" Kynar refers to premium Kynar colors (ie. regal blue, brite red, hartford green, brandywine in the McElroy Metals line up www.mcelroymetals.com ). Tier 1 colors are the standard colors and the "normal" price colors.  Tier 3 colors are pre-weathered Galvalume, leadcoat (lead coat in color only and not real lead-coated copper, silver metallic, copper penny metallic, Texas silver metallic and champagne metallic).  Kynar refers to the factory applied paint finish over G90 steel.  26-ga. is OK but we never use anything thinner than 24-ga.  Don't get sucked into thinking that 22-ga. (even thicker) may be better because it is more expensive and very few people carry it.  Further, .032 aluminum is a great product for salt air environments but even pricier yet.  A metal roof, be it standing seam or exposed fasteners, can be great for wind; however, it is only as good as it is installed and the fastening pattern. Regarding hail, a metal roof will dent in hail.  Many insurance carriers will try to "save you money" by offering a "cosmetic damage waiver" which basically means your give up your right to a replacement metal roof if it gets whacked by hail.  The thing make look ugly but it is not compromised, retains its structural integrity and remains watertight.  Don't fall for the "savings" bit as the savings in minimal.
  3. You get a scope of loss with an accompanying dollar figure which can include all or part of your roof and dollars for other collateral damage.  Your scope of loss needs to be analyzed and the dollars sorted to what is damaged.  You will get say $25,000.00 total scope of loss.  You have a $5,000.00 deductible.  The insurance company will pay you $20,000.00 to fix up your place.  They will give you say $12,000.00 to start.  You get ALL of the work done FOR AT LEAST $25,000.00 and you will get the balance of $8,000.00 ($12K + $8K= $20K; $20K + your $5K deductible = $25,000.00).  
  4. I have no clue about local pricing.  Make sure to check the additional flashing details for head and side walls, pipe penetration flashings, how your gutters and downspouts will be treated, etc.  The devil is in the details.  You may get a low price as a leader and then pay dearly for the non-included detail work.  Also, get a copy of their workmanship warranty prior to signing on the dotted line. Get names and addresses for references.  If nobody has heard of  them or can verify their bona fides then they are just chasing insurance dollars and don't know a damn thing about roofing. Also, call their suppliers.  
  5. Absolutely have the existing roof removed down to the wood deck.  Repair / replace any rotted, delaminated or otherwise unsuitalbe wood deck substrate.

Good luck!

@ROFL BOX , get off your donkey and get to work!!

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6655

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Posted

Re: "layover", since metal is considered a "fitty year solution", meaning in a perfect scenario you won't need to replace the roof for 50 years, why wouldn't you want a good look @ the condition of your decking before "locking it up" for a looong time?

Additionally, penetrations like skylights, flashing such as roof to wall joints & chimneys are a shitload harder to get right if there is a layer of shingles to fuck around with.

Also, I was out visiting with@Bozo_Casanova on Wednesday & found a lot of damage that was missed by the adjuster (his claim was approved, so this will be a supplement, i.e. request that added stuff gets included & the price for his repair work probably made a $ 3,500 leap forward).

Added: if you live anywhere the shots are listed for this next pic, contact me. These are hail hits from Thursday, 15 Apr 21.

RestorationEmail/yahoo.comc45dd433b3ed38416ef140b284a11a54.jpg

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6655

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/16/2021 at 7:34 AM, CooterBrown said:

Just paid for a new roof out of pocket on WED and was fearful I was now going to get a free roof yesterday. No hail here though.

And you didn't let me check it out... why?

Edited by ROFL BOX
To bid the work
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