Pergola/Roof Gable -- Overall Home Improvement

[Spur08 384]

Well, we just refinanced so it looks like we'll be in this house for a bit longer.  One of the commitments I needed to make was to improve things around the house, update master bath, pantry, and probably build either a pergola or a covered roof cable thing.  The last one is what I want to focus on for this thread.

 

Has anyone done this recently?  Did any particular factor play part in you choosing a pergola vs. a gabled roof extension?  My patio is approximately 30" x 15"...maybe a little larger.  I haven't decided if I want the entire patio covered or not, but we get a bunch of sun in the evening that just bakes the backyard.

 

I'm in far N DFW if that matters

[Dbeasy 15529]

[C-Man 27690]

Here's my two cents. We have a pergola. Wish we had a completely covered back patio area. We get a ton of sun and I would also like to be able to sit out there from time to time when it's actually raining.

[Brew 3049]

This is what we did, pictures aren’t close up on it but it gives you an idea. This one is 30x14 and we put in pine tongue in groove ceiling, recessed lights in boxes, fans, power outlets, full roof and gutters, and roll down blinds. It gets significantly more use than if we would have put in a pergola because we can use it mid day and in the afternoon sun.

[Dbeasy 15529]

This is what we did, pictures aren’t close up on it but it gives you an idea. This one is 30x14 and we put in pine tongue in groove ceiling, recessed lights in boxes, fans, power outlets, full roof and gutters, and roll down blinds. It gets significantly more use than if we would have put in a pergola because we can use it mid day and in the afternoon sun.

Flat pitch roof? Who built it?

[Brew 3049]

1 hour ago, Dbeasy said:

Flat pitch roof? Who built it?

No, the roof has a slope from the middle our to the sides. They used some composite material (not sure what) to create a slope from the center out to both sides. Then it has a rubber membrane over the top of that. A local wood guy did it, but I’m a good ways from most of you guys.

[Spur08 384]

1 hour ago, Brew said:

No, the roof has a slope from the middle our to the sides. They used some composite material (not sure what) to create a slope from the center out to both sides. Then it has a rubber membrane over the top of that. A local wood guy did it, but I’m a good ways from most of you guys.

That was actually a question I had.  Do you mind sharing what you paid for it?  Maybe it's the angle, but it looks smaller than 30'.  I actually went out to measure mine to reconfirm and it definitely is ~~32' x 15'.  Anything you would have changed after-the-fact?  If I go gabled roof, I think it would need to have more of a pitch so that it doesn't look funny w/ the surrounding roof design/structure.

[Brew 3049]

9 hours ago, Spur08 said:

That was actually a question I had.  Do you mind sharing what you paid for it?  Maybe it's the angle, but it looks smaller than 30'.  I actually went out to measure mine to reconfirm and it definitely is ~~32' x 15'.  Anything you would have changed after-the-fact?  If I go gabled roof, I think it would need to have more of a pitch so that it doesn't look funny w/ the surrounding roof design/structure.

The coverage area is a little less than 30 feet, the outside post edge to post edge is probably in the 25 range. Here Is a picture looking up as well as one of the material on top. You can’t see the pitch very well, but it is pitched from the center out. I’ve probably got about $18k-$20k or so in it, but I had it put on it’s own breaker so it is wired for the fans, recessed lights on a dimmer, and multiple plugs. The boxed in roll down blinds you can see in the picture behind the hanging lights were also not cheap. I don’t think I would change anything if we did it again. Battling the carpenter bees is a pain in the ass, but other than that it has been solid.

[Not that Bob 743]

How do you keep the shades from flopping around in the wind?

[Brew 3049]

There are tall planters at the base of each post now. If it’s windy we just roll them down behind them where they are butted up against the post behind the planter. The braces on the posts also help keep them from flying around. We usually just don’t roll them down if the wind is blowing very much, so we don’t have to worry about it. They generally only get rolled down when we’re eating out there or hanging out and the sun is on that side of the house. I’ve seen others that snap into a base that would be mounted on the posts as well.

[Brew 3049]

Doubled.

Edited July 24, 2019 by Brew

[Skipper 6406]

Before I became a poor from storm damage I was planning to get bids this summer on something like this for my patio.   Curious if anyone has ever done it.  Either something like this or a covered patio as posted above is likely my next project after the emergency fund recovers.

 

 

[Jkwellborn 7007]

I’d like to shake the mans hand that built the first pergola. He was probably building a covered porch and just said fuck it.

[BradInATX 9208]

Going to piggy back on this thread. I'm going to throw a structure up next to the pool. I have no idea what to even call it, but it's basically an 18x8 pergola with a roof, two sides walled off with planks, and two sides open with roller shades or curtains (TBD). Outdoor living room with TV, bar, fridge etc that can close all the way up.

Anyway, my only option due to a bunch of logistics is to put it on an existing concrete pad that's at least 10 inches thick and probably more.

Any issue with using the Simpson 4x4 bases that are meant to go on concrete and using redhead concrete anchors to secure them? I know code is to dig and bury, but my backyard is pure limestone and even if it was possible logistically (it's not), I'm not doing all that. I'm going to put angle braces on all of the structural cross beams, and the whole thing is going to be pretty damned heavy by the end. I don't think shear will be an issue, but I also don't want to tear up my slab. Any thoughts?

Edited March 9, 2021 by BradInATX

[deadshank 24654]

18 hours ago, BradInATX said:

Going to piggy back on this thread. I'm going to throw a structure up next to the pool. I have no idea what to even call it, but it's basically an 18x8 pergola with a roof, two sides walled off with planks, and two sides open with roller shades or curtains (TBD). Outdoor living room with TV, bar, fridge etc that can close all the way up.

Anyway, my only option due to a bunch of logistics is to put it on an existing concrete pad that's at least 10 inches thick and probably more.

Any issue with using the Simpson 4x4 bases that are meant to go on concrete and using redhead concrete anchors to secure them? I know code is to dig and bury, but my backyard is pure limestone and even if it was possible logistically (it's not), I'm not doing all that. I'm going to put angle braces on all of the structural cross beams, and the whole thing is going to be pretty damned heavy by the end. I don't think shear will be an issue, but I also don't want to tear up my slab. Any thoughts?

You don’t want to go into your concrete with your posts but you want water, cable and electricity supplied to your new outdoor living area for your TV, bar and fridge?
 

Is that service already underground?  
10” thick concrete is closing in on structural slab and far beyond typical concrete flatwork.  How do you know the concrete is 10” thick?  
 

If you have to bore under the concrete to run your utility service and then bore the concrete for service risers and plumbing then boring for properly installing your corner posts should be considered.  
 

All of this assumes your proposed structure is built away from the main house and detached. 

Edited March 10, 2021 by deadshank

[BradInATX 9208]

1 hour ago, deadshank said:

You don’t want to go into your concrete with your posts but you want water, cable and electricity supplied to your new outdoor living area for your TV, bar and fridge?
 

Is that service already underground?  
10” thick concrete is closing in on structural slab and far beyond typical concrete flatwork.  How do you know the concrete is 10” thick?  
 

If you have to bore under the concrete to run your utility service and then bore the concrete for service risers and plumbing then boring for properly installing your corner posts should be considered.  
 

All of this assumes your proposed structure is built away from the main house and detached. 

 

Structure will be detached but relatively close to the house.

I know the concrete is at least 10" thick because I can see it, it's on a hill. Hard to describe, but it's definitely at least that deep.

I can run water and electricity where I want it to come into the structure from existing pipe and electrical without burying anything. The previous owner has a PVC spigot right behind where I want it as well as two outlets. We're talking single digit feet. They'll come in the "back" side of the bar which is one of the sides that has a full wall. I'm pretty sure they had the same idea as I do and prepped for it, but never got to it. So that's not really a concern. The TV is all through Roku via WiFi.

So given all that, nothing will have to come through the slab. 

Honestly I think the structure will be heavy enough not to move around with the wind. We're talking 1,200+ lbs of lumber alone. But, best practice seems like it would dictate anchoring it, just trying to figure out if that's going to create risk to the slab itself.

[deadshank 24654]

16 minutes ago, BradInATX said:

 

Structure will be detached but relatively close to the house.

I know the concrete is at least 10" thick because I can see it, it's on a hill. Hard to describe, but it's definitely at least that deep.

I can run water and electricity where I want it to come into the structure from existing pipe and electrical without burying anything. The previous owner has a PVC spigot right behind where I want it as well as two outlets. We're talking single digit feet. They'll come in the "back" side of the bar which is one of the sides that has a full wall. I'm pretty sure they had the same idea as I do and prepped for it, but never got to it. So that's not really a concern. The TV is all through Roku via WiFi.

So given all that, nothing will have to come through the slab. 

Honestly I think the structure will be heavy enough not to move around with the wind. We're talking 1,200+ lbs of lumber alone. But, best practice seems like it would dictate anchoring it, just trying to figure out if that's going to create risk to the slab itself.

If you’re seeing 10” of concrete at the edges then you might be looking at a grade beam bearing the load of the flat work at the edges. 
 

I think erecting a covered pergola with the only mechanical means for keeping it pegged to ground in the form of Simpson 4x4 bases is a bad idea.   1200 lbs of lumber is nothing for high winds to turn your structure into an umbrella blown by the wind. 

But it may just work. 

[BradInATX 9208]

1 hour ago, deadshank said:

If you’re seeing 10” of concrete at the edges then you might be looking at a grade beam bearing the load of the flat work at the edges. 
 

I think erecting a covered pergola with the only mechanical means for keeping it pegged to ground in the form of Simpson 4x4 bases is a bad idea.   1200 lbs of lumber is nothing for high winds to turn your structure into an umbrella blown by the wind. 

But it may just work. 

 

Would you do it with or without the Simpsons, if you were to say fuck it and do it?

[deadshank 24654]

14 minutes ago, BradInATX said:

 

Would you do it with or without the Simpsons, if you were to say fuck it and do it?

I'd cut the concrete, dig out bell footings in the dirt below, put the posts in plumb, mix concrete and pour in place.  

I would not use #2 treated yellow pine 4 x 4's as they dry, twist and have knots that can be compromised by loads borne.  4 x 6 are better; however, I really like milled heavy cedar and raw cedar posts.

Check out www.lucascedar.com out of Willis, TX.  They have more than just cedar.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2021 by deadshank
I say "fuck it" and "do it" a lot.

[deadshank 24654]

Rough cedar posts.  Heavy, Non-rotting mofos.   Didn’t use concrete.   Just dug with an auger on a tractor, hole cleaned with a post hole digger, post set and plumbed, back filled hole and tamped in back fill with a piece of rebar and a 2x4.   Moisture from rain set the soil back to near concrete form. 

[deadshank 24654]

We later framed out the roof structure and sheeted it with Galvalume U panels for the lid.