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Build.Me.A.Smoker question or Attn Paco & Squib


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Not sure if they made it over, but I'm building a smoker, and I have a question:

How do I cope pipe to a semispherical shape? Pipe is 20" casing (firebox), round shape is the end of a 500 gal propane tank.

Asking for a friend.

 

 

I found an online template maker for any pipe, any angle, but not for coping to a hemispherical shape (end of propane tank).

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I don't think it is going to be as easy as you make it sound. Care to elaborate some?

I'm thinking a (semi-) circular hole in the tank and cope the casing to mate that would be the cleanest build, but I'm not exactly sure how to do that.

Or I could just cut the tank in semi-circular shape, insert the casing, and then mark and trim it. That may be the way to do this. Is that what you meant? Am I overthinking this?

Gracias baboso,

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I eyeballed the fuck out of it. I had a square going on the end of the tank, so it was a matter of projecting vertical lines down the end, which was still janky as hell. I'll try to find some pictures of the layout.

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If you can tell by this picture, I only had to lay out a horizontal cut, and then a radial? cut along the bottom. Once those lines were laid out I was able to eyeball some blue tape from the top line down to the smiley face cut.

That's a lot of words to say no, I don't know how to lay out a circle on the end of a propane tank.

So now I'm thinking...can you position the firebox piece as close as possible to the end of the tank. Take a yardstick, hold it against the side of the firebox, and sliding it against the curve of the tank make a mark. Keep the yardstick level with the world as you slide it. Does that make any sense?9285209957d0acb3c54bc9896134db70.jpg

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Awesome Paco, glad you made it over. Like you mentioned I was thinking of setting the casing on some pipe stands up next to the tank and using a straight edge to trace / mark my end cut there.

 

I'll get some pics up once I have some meaningful progress to show.

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  • 1 year later...

Finally got around to it. For various reasons I'm turning this over, and since I have access to a fork lift it made sense to cut the firebox first while still upside down (hope these pics show up).

PmE9GRm9SpcAZQ_FB0D-9R5pYlKyfouoc-NPdkcU

 

Instead of a straight edge I used a piece of 1/4" tubing I had laying around stuck a piece of soapstone inside it.

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bgtxSMN1FMjBFqMoa6jlu48_7f3crvnZswxjITlS

lDpKod8g7EMc0uK80UrdUG0NMk3iXkBoTA1e2Ox5

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  On 4/20/2019 at 2:36 AM, DCA_HORN said:
So I'm sure there are smoking physics that I'm too much of a novice to understand but why not just cut off the end and weld a circular plate and attach the firebox to that?
I thought of that. Honestly I just wasn't willing to make such a big cut right off the bat.



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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  On 4/20/2019 at 4:25 AM, luke duke said:

 

It’s the diameter in question, not the length.

http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html

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I don't trust that calculator, the firebox on the 1k gal smoker I use is 75% too small according to that.

 

 

We'll know soon enough...

Edited by GringoSalado
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  On 4/20/2019 at 9:56 PM, luke duke said:

 


I don’t trust it 100% either, but I do think that the diameter of the firebox should match the diameter of the pit for optimal results.

 

Expand  

Not that I disagree but that would be a 41" firebox. The 20" casing and the propane tank were free/I already had those. So I welded them together.

 

  On 4/21/2019 at 3:17 PM, drt said:

This should be moved to Hobbies and you should post more pics.

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I'll have more pics this week.

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  On 4/23/2019 at 4:01 AM, luke duke said:

I get it. See if it works.

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I was pretty fucking confident until you assholes criticized my firebox. But if it doesn't work as configured now modifying it to a square 41" firebox will work with the current design, as you'll see. So provided I live to finish it we'll get to see how well, if at all, it cooks. Hoping for a cool thread so thanks for all the comments.

More pics

20190419-111006.jpg20190419-124748.jpg20190423-112421.jpg

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My next question is about the counterweight. Unfortunately no pics but I tacked a piece of angle at a 45° to the center of the lid, and measured out 1/2 the width of the lid to find the equilibrium moment, or some fucking thing I'm not an engineer,  of the weight of the lid. IOW if you put 165 lbs (lid weight) at that spot the lid would, in theory, be in balance. But of course you don't want that, you want the lid to stay closed, and open. So I just picked an arbitrary amount to place my counterweight completely above that point.

My counterweight of choice is a forklift propane tank. I didn't post this is "shit you heard in a bar" but a drunk redneck from Tyler I was talking to at my local place swore up and down that a small propane tank filled with sand would be sufficient for even a 48"* 500 gal pit.

So then I calculate the weight of my lid (165 if I recall correctly), and calculate the weight of my forklift propane tank filled with sand, and decided I'd better extend it out horizontally for more leverage because it was only going to be like 95 lbs. full of sand.

-----------------------------------------------------

tldr

I guess my question is how the fuck do you design/position your counterweight.

 

 

 

* Also wedded to a 48" door as this thing is meant for whole hogs.

Edited by GringoSalado
wtf
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The firebox is also supposed to be mounted where it is butted up against the end of the cooking chamber and the top of it should be in the exact middle of the cooking chamber.  I think that end of your pit is going to be much hotter with the way it is underhung.

Edited by kevwun
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  On 4/24/2019 at 2:31 PM, kevwun said:

The firebox is also supposed to be mounted where it is butted up against the end of the cooking chamber and the top of it should be in the exact middle of the cooking chamber.  I think that end of your pit is going to be much hotter with the way it is underhung.

Expand  

That's sort of by design, tha warming cabinet is going over the firebox.

 

Edit:  the top of my firebox is 7" below the bottom rack.

 

welding-i-have-no-idea-what-im-taliking-

Edited by GringoSalado
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Warming cabinet mocked up, not quite square in the pic.

20190424-113221.jpg

Like DCA Horn upthread you might be thinking "wtf, why not just make a square firebox under the warming cabinet" and that's cool because I'm thinking it too. But I really wanted a round firebox. This started out in my head as a reverse flow w/ round firebox to cook 2 or 3 pigs because that's what's on the menu and I had this tank and a bunch of casing. But I also need some ribs capacity (also on menu) so I added the warming cabinet. I'm hoping to actually cook baby backs in there. We'll see if it works.

 

My counterweight didn't work for shit, no amount of weight was going to keep the door open. So I managed to mock it up w/ the door open:

20190424-113208.jpg

Since my first two versions were too short to keep the lid open I threw a few things and then over corrected on my third try. Fucking thing is like 10 feet in the air when the door is closed but it works, it now holds the door open, just barely, but it's empty (haven't added any sand to the tank). 

The door is still pretty heavy when it's about half way open, but it isn't very heavy when closed. So if I add a bunch of weight to make it easier at 1/2 open I don't think it is going to stay shut very good. I'm not sure if there is any way around that, so something to think about when you decide to cut a 165 lb door.

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Here is how Lonestargrillz does their counterweights.  I like it.  The square tubing is packed with something to make it heavier.  Not sure what it is, but it is packed tight and doesn't move at all.  I don't have a picture of the side view, but the mounting brackets are sloped toward the back of the pit to make it lighten the load as soon as you open the door.

244fc3fbfe9e463b4c87ef1b37ce6617.jpg

Edited by kevwun
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Gringo, you should take a look at the size of the box in the pic above and in the pics Luke posted of the Klose pits. Large fire boxes. You are at a stage that you can make an adjustment in the size that will be a whole lot easier than doing it later. Might slow you down a bit, but later on you'll be glad you did. This is coming from a guy who wishes he had a larger box on his pit.

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  On 4/25/2019 at 4:06 PM, kevwun said:

It's easier to work with the fire in a square one because there's more room.

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I'm the opposite, I like the natural air gap at the bottom, but I grew up cooking on Oylers. Every square box I've used needed some janky tray to elevate the wood.

 

I'll have some more pics later

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  On 4/25/2019 at 3:56 PM, Steel Shank said:
Gringo, you should take a look at the size of the box in the pic above and in the pics Luke posted of the Klose pits. Large fire boxes. You are at a stage that you can make an adjustment in the size that will be a whole lot easier than doing it later. Might slow you down a bit, but later on you'll be glad you did. This is coming from a guy who wishes he had a larger box on his pit.

Esto. You’re at a point where you can change relatively easily. The firebox does look a wee wee.
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Trying to tapa talk a pic of the maiden cook, fingers crossed.

Props to the dude up thread who predicted the hot spot.

Empty the top cabinet rack was only 20 degrees cooler than the hottest tank rack, but when loaded (2 pigs & 15 or so ribs in tank plus 60 racks in the cabinet) that grew to 40 deg.

No problem whatsoever in making or holding a temp. No lid related injuries.

I give it a solid B at this point I guess. Pigs and ribs should be off soon, I'll grab some more pics856b8bfcc38a7f8ee43f1e5852fb4b33.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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