Affordable Watches

[satyanash 14473]

Throwback to my first ever mechanical watch, a reissue of the HMT Pilot Limited Edition. HMT (Hindustan Machine Tools) was an Indian government-subsidized watchmaker known for making affordable, reliable mechanical watches starting in 1961. They were manufactured completely in India, with an in-house HMT 0231 movement developed in collaboration with Citizen and licensed from the latter's 0201 Parashock movement. HMT watches were absurdly popular in India even through the quartz crisis, due to import tariffs keeping out foreign watchmakers. But in 1991 those tariffs were lifted, and soon after a new watchmaker named Titan flooded India with cheap quartz watches mass-produced in Chinese factories. HMT couldn't compete, and despite releasing their own short-lived quartz lineup, they suffered massive losses and eventually went out of business.

Today's generation in India is completely unaware of HMT for the most part. This watch was a gift from my in-laws, who live near the last remaining HMT factory in Bangalore and were able to acquire this piece when they were selling off existing stock after the factory closed for the final time. It sold for 3663 rupees, or $48.84. 36mm diameter with a domed acrylic crystal. Not the fanciest watch, but it holds a good deal of sentimental value.

(apologies for the sasquatch arm 😬)

 

[Guest]

On 1/4/2023 at 12:34 PM, Celery Man said:

New watch day

Lulz. Have the same Casio. Come to find out, it has a rep for being a "terrorist" watch:

https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-disptach/casio-f-91w-the-preferred-watch-of-terrorists

[Dignan 355]

This thread inspired me. I posted a Casio I bought a couple of weeks ago on Amazon. Was about a $100 watch. After posting on this thread and reading through it I decided to return it to Amazon and get something that I have always wanted. Shipping says it should get here today. Seiko Samurai Prospex SRPF03. I can't wait.

[huge 3793]

On 1/8/2023 at 3:05 PM, tx 3 putt said:

post pics 

I’m stuck on a blue Tudor Pelagos 42mm with a black rubber band 

Love my OG Pelagos that I bought from a sanctimonious SOB.  Best part about them is that they really dont show wear.  Titanium is legit.

[tx 3 putt 76862]

Very very eye catching ….

 

https://momentumwatch.com/products/sea-quartz-30-42mm-black

$195

[Dignan 355]

Well, it came in today. Happy.

[AeroHorn 749]

15 hours ago, satyanash said:

Decent but very overpriced. For $500 you can get a Max Bill, for $700 you can get a C63 Sealander... that's the quality you should expect in that price range.

Thanks Satya. I know absolutely nothing about watches except that there is a pricy watch called Rolex. The only time I have worn a watch (besides Apple watch now) was during my undergrad days in India (good old HMT). This question was for gifting a watch to a relative.

[AeroHorn 749]

Edit: Didn't read your post before replying. Everyone had HMT and I remember by dad had a Citizen watch.

Their website looks like it is stuck in 1990s too. Official Web Site of HMT Watches by HMT Limited | Buy online

 

[satyanash 14473]

13 hours ago, AeroHorn said:

Edit: Didn't read your post before replying. Everyone had HMT and I remember by dad had a Citizen watch.

Their website looks like it is stuck in 1990s too. Official Web Site of HMT Watches by HMT Limited | Buy online

HMT is stuck in a bygone era. In the '70s and '80s crowds of people would line up outside HMT showrooms with recommendation letters from politically connected friends/relatives in order to be able to buy watches. Obviously that's no longer the case, people have other options now that the Indian economy isn't closed off to the outside world anymore. The HMT ABD still has a supply of previously manufactured 36mm cases and 0231 hand-wound movements that they're sloooooowly assembling and selling off through their broken website (which does not ship outside of India) and a few showrooms scattered around Bangalore. Their prices for the original Janata, Pilot, Kohinoor, Jhalak, and Vijay models are cheap as ever but the QC is more hit or miss than it was after the layoffs and factory closings. They're also making and selling some quartz and automatic models in larger 40mm+ cases with imported off-the-shelf Miyota movements.

Sometimes, for a large enough group order they'll make and sell custom 'limited edition' versions of their watches according to customer-given specifications. That's how the Pilot 'White Dial' Limited Edition first came into being back in 2013. There are also a ton of crappy fake HMT watches with repainted dials and cannibalized movements floating around on eBay for ~$15 a pop.

[Constant 6723]

Pre-ordered this Hoffman 40 mechanical panda. 

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Two brands I can definitely recommend I the $750-850 range are the Direnzo DRZ04 and the Orion Hellcat.

I also highly recommend the Formex Field on the adjustable strap - sub-$1000.

Another microbrand I like for under $1k is the Straum Opphav.

Finally, if you like a cushion case, I love the Duckworth Prestex. I think it's sub $750.

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Another watch I would highly recommend although I don't own one yet is the Delft Watch works Oostsport. One of the owners of the brand has another line of watches that are much higher end. But he's a fantastic watchmaker and this is a great looking watch.

About $800

[satyanash 14473]

On 1/17/2023 at 8:59 PM, Constant said:

Pre-ordered this Hoffman 40 mechanical panda. 

Let us know how it ends up. I'm usually leery about Chinese-made Kickstarter watches with bold marketing claims but this one does seem more legit.

 

[satyanash 14473]

I will add there's nothing wrong with making watches in China, as long as they're honest about their product.

Quote

Precision: -20/+40 seconds per day

Stuff like this for example. Losing ~30 sec. per day is not tremendously precise, it's standard for the cheap Miyota 2036 movement they used. It's cool that you can upgrade to a Seagull though.

Edited January 19, 2023 by satyanash

[Constant 6723]

16 hours ago, satyanash said:

Let us know how it ends up. I'm usually leery about Chinese-made Kickstarter watches with bold marketing claims but this one does seem more legit.

 

Yeah, I’m not expecting anything super special, but the look just caught my eye right. Ultimately saving up for my next holy grail-  the moonwatch. 

[Prepuce of Doom 21052]

1 hour ago, Constant said:

Yeah, I’m not expecting anything super special, but the look just caught my eye right. Ultimately saving up for my next holy grail-  the moonwatch. 

Find a MoonSwatch in the meantime. 

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Trafford working on a bracelet...looks pretty good.

[satyanash 14473]

On 1/20/2023 at 12:00 AM, Prepuce of Doom said:

Find a MoonSwatch in the meantime. 

Or a Bulova Lunar Pilot, the other true 'moonwatch'. Going for ~$300 on Jomashop right now.

[Celery Man 20929]

I've really just been wearing my speedy since the pandemic started. I bought that Casio F-91W to wear while cycling, which opened the door for other watches to hop on my wrist and I'm remembering how much I love this Stowa Flieger 36. On the edge between this thread and the other, but I paid $750 for it used and they're talking about Pateks in the other thread so I'll call it affordable.

 

It had been keeping shitty time (2012 watch never serviced) so I had it serviced alongside my pogue, but still hadn't put it back on. At about -3 seconds a day. Time seems to move quicker when this big white second marker is just smoothly sweeping along the outer edge of the dial.

Edited January 22, 2023 by Celery Man

[HoustonHorn 1062]

I've really just been wearing my speedy since the pandemic started. I bought that Casio F-91W to wear while cycling, which opened the door for other watches to hop on my wrist and I'm remembering how much I love this Stowa Flieger 36. On the edge between this thread and the other, but I paid $750 for it used and they're talking about Pateks in the other thread so I'll call it affordable.
 

It had been keeping shitty time (2012 watch never serviced) so I had it serviced alongside my pogue, but still hadn't put it back on. At about -3 seconds a day. Time seems to move quicker when this big white second marker is just smoothly sweeping along the outer edge of the dial.

Gorgeous watch! I've kind of been considering sun $1k as affordable. I realize it varies from person to person, but that's a great watch at $750.

[Constant 6723]

Think my next purchase will be this khaki field bronze. 

[satyanash 14473]

Bulova Lunar Pilot was just re-released in a smaller size, 43.5 mm / 50mm lug-to-lug (original is 45 mm / 52mm lug-to-lug). MSRP is $895 but of course that will come down. Dial is unchanged but the watch as a whole looks slimmer. Some welcome news for small-wristed guys like me 😄

[Bevo&Pevo 5120]

Here is my Direnzo and Orion.  

Edited February 10, 2023 by Bevo&Pevo

[T’Boo Ted Marshall 2731]

Looking at a regular wear sport watch ~$1k
Movado, Tissot and Hamilton are the 3 I have narrowed it down to.
I’m familiar with Movado, but not the other 2.
Any feedback?

[Slacks 6819]

11 minutes ago, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

Looking at a regular wear sport watch ~$1k
Movado, Tissot and Hamilton are the 3 I have narrowed it down to.
I’m familiar with Movado, but not the other 2.
Any feedback?

Hamilton has lots of nice options. I dig the Jazzmaster Maestro as a lower cost IWC Portugeiser type.

[gsoda3 3245]

The Tissot le locle is one of my favorite watches and it's not expensive. It's gorgeous.

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Here is my Direnzo and Orion.  

Love both of those!

[huge 3793]

My biased opinion is that no one with any taste or sense should own a Movado.

 

[T’Boo Ted Marshall 2731]

My biased opinion is that no one with any taste or sense should own a Movado.
 

Good thing I got a Hamilton

[huge 3793]

4 hours ago, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

Good thing I got a Hamilton

100% approve of Hamilton

 

Hamilton >> Tissot >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Movado>>>>Invicta

[Sam Lin 3550]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Diesel

[satyanash 14473]

21 hours ago, Sam Lin said:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Diesel

They run the weirdest fucking watch ads I've ever seen.

[Sam Lin 3550]

Look at this sweetness. Who doesn't want a 61mm diameter watch??

https://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Daddy-Quartz-Stainless-Chronograph/dp/B07TFKDR9C

 

 

Way to go Dallas!

[Goofyboy 3268]

Just got this in. It’s my daily now.

[Prepuce of Doom 21052]

Figured this might catch someone's eye around here. 

Pre-order now: https://www.borealiswatch.com/products/pre-order-borealis-sea-storm-mk2-gmt-version-bg1-coffee-bezel-no-date?variant=42012853797020

I have one of their watches and a couple of rubber straps - quality stuff and reasonably priced. 

I just ordered this. 

Edited February 21, 2023 by Prepuce of Doom

[Bevo&Pevo 5120]

Traska is having a spring release in March.  50 buck deposit (will apply to watch purchase) will get you on a list to buy.  

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Traska is having a spring release in March.  50 buck deposit (will apply to watch purchase) will get you on a list to buy.  

Traska makes some nice watches. People sleep on microbrands but there are some great smaller brands out there.

[Superhero 8826]

On 1/22/2023 at 6:30 AM, Celery Man said:

I've really just been wearing my speedy since the pandemic started. I bought that Casio F-91W to wear while cycling, which opened the door for other watches to hop on my wrist and I'm remembering how much I love this Stowa Flieger 36. On the edge between this thread and the other, but I paid $750 for it used and they're talking about Pateks in the other thread so I'll call it affordable.

 

It had been keeping shitty time (2012 watch never serviced) so I had it serviced alongside my pogue, but still hadn't put it back on. At about -3 seconds a day. Time seems to move quicker when this big white second marker is just smoothly sweeping along the outer edge of the dial.

I want a Flieger so bad, but will probably go the Laco route instead of a Stowa. I thought I liked the A face, but the B is growing on me.

A: 

[Constant 6723]

On 2/19/2023 at 12:04 AM, Goofyboy said:

Just got this in. It’s my daily now.

Have it in navy blue as my work watch. Hard to beat it. 

[Prepuce of Doom 21052]

1 hour ago, Superhero said:

I want a Flieger so bad, but will probably go the Laco route instead of a Stowa. I thought I liked the A face, but the B is growing on me.

A: 

Not sure if you ever wear your watch to bed and need to be able read it through a squint in the dark, but the second face looks too busy to easily read in the dark unless only parts of it have lume. 

[Celery Man 20929]

Whole thing would have lume. Flieger B should theoretically be the easiest watch to read in the world while in the dark and disoriented, but A does look cleaner at a glance.

[Txslnghrns 1352]

Ordered the Mido Commander Gradient and should be delivered today. Thought the smoky face that allows you to see into the movement was a cool concept. And apparently Mido has a fantastic reputation for watch making.

[Superhero 8826]

I ordered the Laco Flieger watch last night. it’s not going to win any points for being original but I like it nonetheless. A lot of people bag on the Miyato movement. Is it really that bad?

 

[satyanash 14473]

11 hours ago, Superhero said:

I ordered the Laco Flieger watch last night. it’s not going to win any points for being original but I like it nonetheless. A lot of people bag on the Miyato movement. Is it really that bad?

The 821A is one of Miyota's cheap basic movements. It has a loud and rattly rotor, plus it's indirect seconds drive so the seconds hand can pick up a stutter after a little bit. But it's accurate and solid, which is what's important at the end of the day.

Pilot watches used to have hacking for precise time measurement - very important for a pilot to be able to time their flight runs with accuracy. The 821A did not have hacking up until a couple of years ago but it does now, so if you're buying brand new from their website you'll get hacking. If you're buying grey market though you may get an older non-hacking one.

[HoustonHorn 1062]

I really can't say enough good things about Direnzo watches. Really well made and fantastic design. I posted the DRZ04 Mondial before, but this DRZ03 Eclipse is just as good. Love how the Eclipse is actually implemented into the dial and not just a name.

If you're looking for a sub-$1000 watch that's high quality and something a little different, definitely worth looking into.

[Bevo&Pevo 5120]

X2 on Direnzo.  

[Bevo&Pevo 5120]

Anyone interested in a Bernhardt?  I recently got a white dialed Omega, so it is time for this white to go.  250 american dollars and I'll ship it or deliver it.

 

[GhostOfTomJoad 9323]

Thoughts on Alpina? This is apparently a gift option for my service anniversary. I'm a sucker for a sunburst blue dial and this is a classic, clean look IMO. Just don't know enough about the reliability of their products. The bit of research I've done is that they're not well known by the masses or even many watch enthusiasts, they're more of a "if you know, you know" brand.

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Thoughts on Alpina? This is apparently a gift option for my service anniversary. I'm a sucker for a sunburst blue dial and this is a classic, clean look IMO. Just don't know enough about the reliability of their products. The bit of research I've done is that they're not well known by the masses or even many watch enthusiasts, they're more of a "if you know, you know" brand.

I like Alpina, but no experience owning one. There's a guy on YouTube who is a big fan, Pete McConville. A watch channel worth...drumroll...watching.

[Patricio Swayze 17058]

I might be thinking about another affordable watch. Because why not.

Hoping to find a diver that has a vintage look. Prefer automatic, but doesn’t have to be.I also prefer coin bezels. Wanting something like these Rotary and Ollech & Wajs watches. Suggestions?