Colombia

[iodeac 138]

Agree with all your points.  We were constantly blown away by how cheap everything was.  A full course meal with drinks and appetizers cost basically nothing, souvenirs were cheap too.

Agree about the countryside, we loved it. It was so much fun pulling into the paradores and buying bread, soda, crazy snacks, almohabanas, all that kind of stuff.

It's crazy to me that Medellin has such a better infrastructure than the capital Bogota with its 8 million people or so. 

While we were there we heard a lot of commentary about how Venezuelans coming into the country had increased crime.  It was very common in Bogota to see Venezuelans pulling these huge carts at night, collecting trash where they would go sell recyclable stuff later.  I was on Reddit Colombia the other day and someone had posted a video of a Youtuber from Canada, who basically did everything touristy you weren't supposed to do, and ended up getting a gun pointed at her in Santa Marta.  I still feel like as long as you're aware of surroundings, don't hold your cellphone out in front of everyone, travel with people you know, etc then you should be fine.

Still considering another trip, this time to Bucaramanga in late February

[grazinhorn 472]

Wow, what a fun trip - just got back from a long "weekend" in Bogota.  We didn't have enough time to get out of the city, but we had a blast.  Wife and I flew down from DC for four days - enough time to explore the city a little, hit some highlights, eat like crazy, and chill some.  A few brief highlights/notable takeaways:

• Realizing a local guide we met was born the day Escobar was killed - she was 28 (?) and had never lived a day in Colombia with Pablo Escobar alive.  Things are and have been changing so much for the better.
• Hearing said young lady say she could climb Monserrate in 45 minutes "with effort".  I hauled my ass up there in 50 - seeing as I live at 1,000 feet I was ok with that
• Drinking beer in the shade on top of Monserrate on a clear day
• Appetizer, 2 entrees, 3 glasses of wine and 3 beers at a pretty nice restaurant for $45
• Lunch for 2 on the street near the universities for $2.50
• La Ciclovia (70+ miles of city streets closed for bikes, or just about anything else)
• Watching a cab driver manage 4 mounted cell phones in crazy traffic (dudes hustle)

I'm sure I'm forgetting some other noteworthy things, but the point is - it was great.  We decided on a whim - cheap flight, a few days to spare, what the hell...  and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.  I'd also love to see more and get around to other cities and such, but even if you just have a few days and happen upon cheap tickets - think hard about going.  It's safe enough, and with just a few pointers it's even more comfortable.

It's a big world, but I'd like to go back someday.

[midtown 3345]

Never met anyone that hasn't been blown away by their trip to Colombia.   Impressed at those who walked up Monserrate.   We walked down it which was nice because it was a constant fantastic view. 

How's the covid scene in Colombia?   Masks, vaccination requirements etc?

If I find a cheap flight I might head down.   Directly to Medellin and then to the coffee region.   I think Bogota and Cartagena are on time visits.  Although I would like to make it over to the National Park near Santa Marta

[iodeac 138]

Never met anyone that hasn't been blown away by their trip to Colombia.   Impressed at those who walked up Monserrate.   We walked down it which was nice because it was a constant fantastic view. 
How's the covid scene in Colombia?   Masks, vaccination requirements etc?

If I find a cheap flight I might head down.   Directly to Medellin and then to the coffee region.   I think Bogota and Cartagena are on time visits.  Although I would like to make it over to the National Park near Santa Marta

With regard to wearing masks, everyone wears them, whether inside or outside. I felt safer there than here in NC and we both tested negative before coming back to the US, as did my other friend who came back a week later.

Enviado desde mi SM-G973U mediante Tapatalk

[iodeac 138]

Wow, what a fun trip - just got back from a long "weekend" in Bogota.  We didn't have enough time to get out of the city, but we had a blast.  Wife and I flew down from DC for four days - enough time to explore the city a little, hit some highlights, eat like crazy, and chill some.  A few brief highlights/notable takeaways:

• Realizing a local guide we met was born the day Escobar was killed - she was 28 (?) and had never lived a day in Colombia with Pablo Escobar alive.  Things are and have been changing so much for the better.
• Hearing said young lady say she could climb Monserrate in 45 minutes "with effort".  I hauled my ass up there in 50 - seeing as I live at 1,000 feet I was ok with that
• Drinking beer in the shade on top of Monserrate on a clear day
• Appetizer, 2 entrees, 3 glasses of wine and 3 beers at a pretty nice restaurant for $45
• Lunch for 2 on the street near the universities for $2.50
• La Ciclovia (70+ miles of city streets closed for bikes, or just about anything else)
• Watching a cab driver manage 4 mounted cell phones in crazy traffic (dudes hustle)

I'm sure I'm forgetting some other noteworthy things, but the point is - it was great.  We decided on a whim - cheap flight, a few days to spare, what the hell...  and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.  I'd also love to see more and get around to other cities and such, but even if you just have a few days and happen upon cheap tickets - think hard about going.  It's safe enough, and with just a few pointers it's even more comfortable.
It's a big world, but I'd like to go back someday.

So jealous. I think about our trip every day and I feel like I have to get back again sometime this year. How much were your flights if you don't mind me asking?

Glad you got a great view of Monserrat, we saw it at night which was pretty cool too. It was a little chilly so we opted for agua de panela. Glad you enjoyed your trip, it's a great city.

Enviado desde mi SM-G973U mediante Tapatalk

[Chopper 17230]

6 hours ago, iodeac said:

So jealous. I think about our trip every day and I feel like I have to get back again sometime this year. How much were your flights if you don't mind me asking?

If you look at flights.google.com and input your cities, when you look at the calendar it will populate the lowest price available so you can choose your departure dates. You can score round trip flights right now from IAH, DFW or AUS from $220 and up. Flights to Bogota are generally the least expenisve. Once you're in Columbia regional flights are inexpensive because there's a lot more airlines on a particular route than you'd think. Avianca, LATAM, Wingo and Viva Airl all fly from Bogota to Medellin, for example. Prices start around $70, and that's round trip.

Edited January 29, 2022 by Chopper

[grazinhorn 472]

I am in Virginia and generally flying out of DC, just FYI.  Our tickets were right around $340 apiece, which included upgrading to assigned seats to ensure we could sit together.  In retrospect that was unnecessary because neither flight was full, but it was convenient.  No checked bags but that was fine.  Also, these were nonstop flights, which was a little hard to come by on this route.

[choripan 790]

4 days (really, two half-days and two full days, counting travel) in Medellin with *NO* wife and kids starting tomorrow. Visiting my best friend from childhood/undergrad who was a whoremonger there for a few years before shacking up with a 22yo hottie. Tomorrow night, I've insisted on doing the Poblado/Lleras thing because I'm a tourist and it's my first time, and I'm with a buddy I did 75 cent bottles and jager bombs with for many years. Sunday and Monday are wide open, though. My Spanish is somewhere between B1 (DELE exam late last year, holler!) and B2 (been putting in 5-10 hours a week in class since then), so I can converse but would not be a good poster on shaggyvaca.com.

Key goals are (i) hang with my guy, (ii) do it up and pack as much in as I can, and (iii) "scout" Medellin for my family. For background, my wife is a prof and can research anywhere during the summers. I work remotely and make my own schedule. Kids (5&4) have been in Spanish immersion childcare since they were 12 months old and are bilingual. Last summer, we lived in Barcelona and this summer we'll be in Madrid. We are looking for somewhere with less of a time difference that is not fucked by a crazy rainy season in the summer.

Here are things I'm thinking of:

- Half day tour out of town to visit a pueblo and horseback ride in the hills/mountains

- Tour on bike to hit up a bunch of neighborhoods. This seems like a way to spend like 30-60 minutes in a variety of neighborhoods and then later drill down on those that look like prospects.

- Find an intercambio and hope to meet a local or some locals to show me around

- Comuna 13 tour

- Generally, just hang and walk around with my buddy and (sometimes) his girl

Is there anything that's can't miss? If so, I want to incorporate it because I might never go back.

Thanks for any recs!

[iodeac 138]

Did you take the DELE exam just out of curiosity? I think I'm around a c1 but don't care enough to take the exam and find out for sure.

I'm jealous of your trip. We spent a long weekend in Cartagena with some good friends from Bucaramanga a few weeks ago and I already can't wait to go back.

As far as Medellín, I really enjoyed walking around Guatapé and we climbed El Peñol which has a really nice view at the top. Make sure your order a bandeja paisa at least once

[Mo Horn 8832]

Bumping this thread. My adult son and I were planning a trip to the galapagos, but tur a variety of reasons that's now not going to happen. We are now planning on going to Colombia. Probably 3 or 4 days in Bogata and 3 or 4 in Medellin. Read thru these pages and appreciate all the info so far. Any specific restaurants we should visit? We'll do a lot of small local places, but always looking for a nice meal or two. Other than what's already here, any other must dos or sees? We both speak Spanish, so language is not an issue. 

[RollLeft 5044]

16 minutes ago, Mo Horn said:

Bumping this thread. My adult son and I were planning a trip to the galapagos, but tur a variety of reasons that's now not going to happen. We are now planning on going to Colombia. Probably 3 or 4 days in Bogata and 3 or 4 in Medellin. Read thru these pages and appreciate all the info so far. Any specific restaurants we should visit? We'll do a lot of small local places, but always looking for a nice meal or two. Other than what's already here, any other must dos or sees? We both speak Spanish, so language is not an issue. 

From what i here the answer is a bunch of hookers and cocaine

[midtown 3345]

I'm not sure there is 3-4 days in Bogota.  I would carve off at least one if not two somewhere and go to the coffee region.  

[Mo Horn 8832]

6 minutes ago, midtown said:

I'm not sure there is 3-4 days in Bogota.  I would carve off at least one if not two somewhere and go to the coffee region.  

Thanks for the suggestion. I saw others say the same in the thread. We were looking at a day trip out of Bogata. Maybe to Chizinga National Park for a day hike, so not every day will be in Bogata proper. Our plan is to get in Friday evening and fly to Medellin on Tuesday. If we do one day trip, then we'll really only have 2 days in Bogata. We will do the same in Medellin. 

[Mo Horn 8832]

Just made reservations for the 12 course menu at Leo in Bogata. Currently the 48th ranked restaurant in the world. Most of our meals will be pretty simple, but a great chance to have a great meal at a great price, since everything is so inexpensive. 

Edited May 25, 2023 by Mo Horn

[conVINCEd 21469]

Go see the really tall palm trees.  Good day trip.

[Mo Horn 8832]

For those who have spent time in Medellin, is it best to go with a guide to Comuna 13, or can we just wander the streets and food places?  We are fluent in Spanish, so language isn't an issue? If it's best to go with a tour, any recommendations? 

[midtown 3345]

19 hours ago, Mo Horn said:

For those who have spent time in Medellin, is it best to go with a guide to Comuna 13, or can we just wander the streets and food places?  We are fluent in Spanish, so language isn't an issue? If it's best to go with a tour, any recommendations? 

I think its fine during the day.  Just like the mercados etc.   Not so much at night.  We did a walking tour around the central district and our guide was very clear not to come back at night.

[DefinitelyNotHollywoodColt 12301]

20 hours ago, Mo Horn said:

For those who have spent time in Medellin, is it best to go with a guide to Comuna 13, or can we just wander the streets and food places?  We are fluent in Spanish, so language isn't an issue? If it's best to go with a tour, any recommendations? 

We went without a guide and had an awesome time exploring that neighborhood. We have little ones so the idea of trying to listen to a guide and learn something is a luxury we didn't have, so I'm certain we missed a lot of cool context around the community. But a guide isn't necessary to have an enjoyable day there IMO.

[Mo Horn 8832]

I'm in Bogota right now with my son and this was our lunch. 

[Mo Horn 8832]

Did the hike to La Chorrera waterfall today. Spectacular. 

[MidTexHorn 822]

My boss is down there right now too, banging his 25 year old smoking hot girlfriend. He's 60 something. I'd say maybe you'll run into him, but I doubt he ever leaves his hotel room. Can't say that I blame him.

 

Edited October 30, 2023 by MidTexHorn
double posted

[Mo Horn 8832]

I have had food in multiple countries all over the world, but I have never had a dining experience like I had tonight. We ate at Leo, which is the 43 ranked restaurant in the world. We had the 12 course tasting, which is an homage to food from all over Colombia. I tasted tastes that I have never tasted before. Absolutely amazing dining experience. Here is what we had. 

[Bolero88 277]

9 hours ago, Mo Horn said:

I have had food in multiple countries all over the world, but I have never had a dining experience like I had tonight. We ate at Leo, which is the 43 ranked restaurant in the world. We had the 12 course tasting, which is an homage to food from all over Colombia. I tasted tastes that I have never tasted before. Absolutely amazing dining experience. Here is what we had. 

Is that in Bogota?

[grazinhorn 472]

We had an amazing experience at Leo last year - what a trip.  Oh, and yes - in Bogota.  A few random pictures I could find at a moment's notice:

^^^

Every course had a unique set of utensils

[Mo Horn 8832]

I have pictures of every course but just opted for posting the menu. I loved the unique utensils. We're flying to Medellin today for the rest of the week. 

[Mo Horn 8832]

I have been in Medellin on a few hours, and have only walked to a restaurant from our hotel, and I can already tell why so many of you rave about this city. Edited to add pics of dinner. Chicharones, Paisa Bandita, Ajiaco, and limeade with coconut. 

Edited October 31, 2023 by Mo Horn

[grazinhorn 472]

Looks awesome!

[Mo Horn 8832]

Wandered a bit this morning and then did a walking tour this afternoon of Comuna 13. What an awesome place. Finished with a plate of trucha a la plancha. 

[Mo Horn 8832]

Our last day here. Heading back to reality sucks. Didn't realize Medellin had such an impressive botanical gardens. A nice oasis in the middle of the city. One last dinner of patacones, sancucho, and mazamorra. The boy had mondongo.

 

[ousuxndallas 65]

Bumping this up.  I started a company down in Medellin, visited for the first time back in November and headed there again soon.

People are amazing, as everyone here has said.  Food was decent.  Only got to spend 3 nights there - next trip is for a week.  I'll be heading there about 3-4 times a year, and am planning (eventually) to see San Andres (everyone there told me that's the best beach area).  Bogota - most say to skip it.  They all like Medellin better, lol.

 

[Mo Horn 8832]

6 minutes ago, ousuxndallas said:

Bumping this up.  I started a company down in Medellin, visited for the first time back in November and headed there again soon.

People are amazing, as everyone here has said.  Food was decent.  Only got to spend 3 nights there - next trip is for a week.  I'll be heading there about 3-4 times a year, and am planning (eventually) to see San Andres (everyone there told me that's the best beach area).  Bogota - most say to skip it.  They all like Medellin better, lol.

 

Went in October and definitely liked Medellin better than Bogata, however Bogota has some good things and good places to eat. Not sure I'd want to spend weeks there, but happy we visited. 

[iodeac 138]

There's not a lot to do in Bogotá if you don't live there imo. Just catching up on this thread and jealous of all the food pics. I'm really missing Colombia lately so I have to make some plan this year to get back down there. I might try to get my friends to run the half marathon in Bucaramanga in October

[midtown 3345]

Definitely getting the Colombia fever again.  Need to look at RE in Medillin soon.  I'm 4 years out of being able to expat out of the US.

Agreed on Bogota.  Once you've seen the tourist sites like Oro Museum and Monserate and the likes it's just a giant metro