Cowboy Boots

[MillerEP 30446]

Yeah supposed to have a big grand opening with live music and drinks:
https://c4c5h4b3jv11qq3kf399hf3c-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/20190306_RetailGrandOpeningEmail_18.jpg

[4th&Five 41506]

16 hours ago, Godzillatron said:

I’m enough of a Luddite I’d like to try on before I buy. Tecovas brick and mortar opening this weekend on South Congress.


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it's been open all week.  been twice.

[TwiceHorn 31431]

So, have any of you guys buying Tecovas ever worn a B-width boot? 

In my younger days, I wore B-width boots more because of a "low-volume" foot, rather than narrow side-to-side. Regardless, a standard D-width in all the American bootmakers was too wide and I couldn't compensate by going down in size.  And insoles aren't really a solution in western boots.

Today, though, the D or medium width in a lot of shoes doesn't seem to be as wide as it used to be (Asian influence I believe).

Also, I'm old and I think my feet have "spread."

And yes, I could just order some and see, but I fear that "on my own," I might decide to keep a pair of boots that don't fit and come to regret it later.

[TwiceHorn 31431]

On 3/11/2019 at 11:07 AM, Masshole Horn said:

I ended up getting both the Dan Post Black waterproof boots and Red Wing 1155 Pecos.  Breaking them in is going slower than I've encountered in the past.  What do y'all do for breaking in boots that need it?

Red Wings just take time.  Greasing em up with sno-seal or mink oil or similar and "wearing em dry" can help.  Some advocate soaking them in water and wearing em dry.  I accept that that doesn't hurt the leather if conditioned after, but have always worried that it's doing funky shit to the insoles and counters and whatnot.  The Posts seem to have a "membrane" like Goretex, so I would be even more concerned about soaking techniques.

Overall, I think it's the stiff soles of Red Wings that make them slow to break in, and there isn't a hell of a lot you can do about that.

[Masshole Horn 769]

2 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

Red Wings just take time.  Greasing em up with sno-seal or mink oil or similar and "wearing em dry" can help.  Some advocate soaking them in water and wearing em dry.  I accept that that doesn't hurt the leather if conditioned after, but have always worried that it's doing funky shit to the insoles and counters and whatnot.  The Posts seem to have a "membrane" like Goretex, so I would be even more concerned about soaking techniques.

Overall, I think it's the stiff soles of Red Wings that make them slow to break in, and there isn't a hell of a lot you can do about that.

Thanks. They're getting there; thick socks and bick 4 seems to be doing the trick. I'm definitely gonna pass on the full dunk method.

[housious 468]

On 1/24/2019 at 12:13 PM, MAROON said:

Well hell.  Just placed an order for this boot, based on this thread.  Been looking at them for awhile, finally pulled the trigger.

Hope they fit.  I have a hard time getting boots to fit due to a really high instep. 

Damn. These look nice. Really nice. Think I might have to get myself a pair.

[baboso 6054]

3 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

So, have any of you guys buying Tecovas ever worn a B-width boot? 

In my younger days, I wore B-width boots more because of a "low-volume" foot, rather than narrow side-to-side. Regardless, a standard D-width in all the American bootmakers was too wide and I couldn't compensate by going down in size.  And insoles aren't really a solution in western boots.

Today, though, the D or medium width in a lot of shoes doesn't seem to be as wide as it used to be (Asian influence I believe).

Also, I'm old and I think my feet have "spread."

And yes, I could just order some and see, but I fear that "on my own," I might decide to keep a pair of boots that don't fit and come to regret it later.

I'm an 11B by measurement.  The Tecovas 10.5 I bought fit well and felt good straight out of the box.

[TwiceHorn 31431]

1 minute ago, baboso said:

I'm an 11B by measurement.  The Tecovas 10.5 I bought fit well and felt good straight out of the box.

Thank you.  I'm about the same, or historically have been.  Maybe worth a shot.  Did you get western or roper?

[baboso 6054]

Roper.  The Earl in chocolate calf.  Thinking about getting another pair in bourbon calf.

[Kennythetiger 9374]

Any recommendations for a mail-in boot repair place?  I lost my guy in Manhattan, KS where I have been going since my college days.  He just up and retired, no notice given.  Next closest is Denver, but I'm not planning a trip there for several weeks yet.  Their same-day service switched to overnight, which usually requires a weekend stay.

[billfromlaketravis 11444]

Do the boot shafts on Tecovas Cartwright look short to y'all? It seems like Tony Lama and Luchesse Western boots have a higher shaft. 

The hype on Tecovas jeans is for real. Very comfortable and fit well. They're a little too wide at the bottom of the leg, but they're supposed to be boot cut. I had mine tapered, no big deal. 

[TwiceHorn 31431]

3 minutes ago, billfromlaketravis said:

Do the boot shafts on Tecovas Cartwright look short to y'all? It seems like Tony Lama and Luchesse Western boots have a higher shaft. 

The hype on Tecovas jeans is for real. Very comfortable and fit well. They're a little too wide at the bottom of the leg, but they're supposed to be boot cut. I had mine tapered, no big deal. 

Shaft height varies.  12" to 14" is pretty standard for western boots, but it's down to preference.  Or are you saying they are less than 12"?

[billfromlaketravis 11444]

1 minute ago, TwiceHorn said:

Shaft height varies.  12" to 14" is pretty standard for western boots, but it's down to preference.  Or are you saying they are less than 12"?

I guess they're closer to 12'' then. 

[DoobieWah 1432]

On 4/10/2018 at 10:51 PM, solamente73 said:

I really want a Nolan in chocolate but not offered;

 

I think they do.

[Irwin F Fletcher 3550]

New Cartwright Tecovas arrived the other day to go along with my pair of Dukes and old Pecos Red Wings.

I think I might need an intervention as it probably won't be long before I get the urge to pull the trigger on their lizard boots.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Looked several places for some boots down in Old Mexico. Mostly small shops as we were in mostly small towns. Apparently a size 12 american is huge down there. Didn't find anything decent with leather soles and a non extra pointy toe down there. Looks like I may be ordering some Tecovas in the future. A 12D Lucchese in a standard toe is too narrow for me, while the next widest size is too lose. The square toed ostrich Luccheses I have fit great. Most other boots fit well in a 12D, Anderson Bean, etc. So how do the Tecovas compare? Also, are the soles pegged in the arch? One row or two rows of pegs? Wooden pegs, brass pegs, or a combination? These things make a difference.

Edited March 21, 2019 by NotActuallyALonghorn

[Grimas 669]

1 hour ago, Irwin F Fletcher said:

New Cartwright Tecovas arrived the other day to go along with my pair of Dukes and old Pecos Red Wings.

I think I might need an intervention as it probably won't be long before I get the urge to pull the trigger on their lizard boots.

Dammit - your picture made me remember how much I loved my 30+ year old old Red Wings that got destroyed by my pup last year...  Can you even buy them anymore (and if so, are they the same quality)? 

[tomahawk dunk 321]

2 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Looked several places for some boots down in Old Mexico. Mostly small shops as we were in mostly small towns. Apparently a size 12 american is huge down there. Didn't find anything decent with leather soles and a non extra pointy toe down there. Looks like I may be ordering some Tecovas in the future. A 12D Lucchese in a standard toe is too narrow for me, while the next widest size is too lose. The square toed ostrich Luccheses I have fit great. Most other boots fit well in a 12D, Anderson Bean, etc. So how do the Tecovas compare? Also, are the soles pegged in the arch? One row or two rows of pegs? Wooden pegs, brass pegs, or a combination? These things make a difference.

I have some 3 plus year old Anderson Beans square toe in 15D. Went to the Tecovas store yesterday and bought the Cole in Chocolate Caiman in 15D. The Tecovas are significantly more comfortable. 

[Red Five 40821]

2 hours ago, Grimas said:

Dammit - your picture made me remember how much I loved my 30+ year old old Red Wings that got destroyed by my pup last year...  Can you even buy them anymore (and if so, are they the same quality)? 

I don't think you can. Mine are 25 years old and look 25 years old. 

[Godzillatron 292]

New Cartwright Tecovas arrived the other day to go along with my pair of Dukes and old Pecos Red Wings.

I think I might need an intervention as it probably won't be long before I get the urge to pull the trigger on their lizard boots.

Your picture highlights the issue with Tecovas for me - as much as y’all rave about the boots the uppers are a huge turn off me. I don’t want anything garish but at least some contrast and personality.


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[Irwin F Fletcher 3550]

I get where you're coming from, but I've never tucked my jeans inside my boots so noone ever really sees the uppers when I wear them.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

The way the do their uppers is probably a way to save on costs. First, they are slightly shorter than traditional boots. Less material, lower costs. Second, they are not sewn through like most nicer boots. The lining leather has no seems poking out inside and the little stitching they have doesn't go through the lining. They tout these inside out uppers as a good thing on their website, but if you compare most nicer boots with cheaper work boots you will only see this in cheaper boots. Whether or not this effects the longevity of them I don't know. They also talk about a cork footbed under the foot. This usually means that the Goodyear welt is attached to fabric that is then glued to the insole (not the semiremovable bit of foam and fabric, but the innermost layer of structural leather). This is opposed to the traditional and more expensive method of stitching the welt directly to the insole. The glue method obviously doesn't last as long and is harder to repair if something happens, but having a cork filler doesn't automatically mean they use the glue method. I'd have to have a pair in hand to deconstruct to say for sure. Regardless, they are obviously good boots and get good reviews from virtually everybody, and I'd have to tear them apart along with other boots in the same price range to really determine how they are made and whether or not they are better.

[Austinvines 316]

I’ve got a D width foot but a narrow heel. I haven’t worn boots since I had a pair of Justin ropers 20 years ago and lost 18 years ago. I went to the Tecovas store and tried on several pair (bourbon lizards). The 9.5s fit but the heel in the left boot slides up enough to where I could probably sling it off if I worked on it. The right fits fine.

Would moleskin or something like it applied to the inside be a suitable fix?

After leaving, I walked up to Allen’s and found a pair of Lucchese’s that fit great but were $1,000 more than the Tecovas.

[baboso 6054]

Heel slippage is normal until the boot breaks in to your foot.

[Llano Estacado 1257]

Your picture highlights the issue with Tecovas for me - as much as y’all rave about the boots the uppers are a huge turn off me. I don’t want anything garish but at least some contrast and personality.

*I don’t wear skinny jeans or skinny chinos.*

My black Tecovas I can’t wear with 2 pairs of slacks (gray and black) I normally would because the upper flares too much. Other boots fit under the same pants just fine, not even imprinting.

[TwiceHorn 31431]

38 minutes ago, baboso said:

Heel slippage is normal until the boot breaks in to your foot.

This is true, but that also implies a pretty tight instep (a bitch to get on/off).  If he can almost sling it off his foot, it doesn't fit right.  Heel slippage should be due to the stiffness of the sole, not the fact that your foot moves up and down in the boot because it's too wide or long.

A really proper-fitting western boot will be the most comfortable, and not just because it isn't rubbing/pinching your heels or toes or whatever.  When it's just right, your foot is "caught" over the arch and there isn't any tendency to slide forward or back and there isn't a ton of weight on the ball of your foot, so it doesn't feel like wearing a hard, leather soled shoe.  And that type of fit tends to mean that it is pretty difficult to get on and off at first, and, until the sole breaks in, slips a little at the heel.

If you have never had a proper fitting boot, getting one will be a revelation, most likely.

Edited March 22, 2019 by TwiceHorn

[TwiceHorn 31431]

56 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

The way the do their uppers is probably a way to save on costs. First, they are slightly shorter than traditional boots. Less material, lower costs. Second, they are not sewn through like most nicer boots. The lining leather has no seems poking out inside and the little stitching they have doesn't go through the lining. They tout these inside out uppers as a good thing on their website, but if you compare most nicer boots with cheaper work boots you will only see this in cheaper boots. Whether or not this effects the longevity of them I don't know. They also talk about a cork footbed under the foot. This usually means that the Goodyear welt is attached to fabric that is then glued to the insole (not the semiremovable bit of foam and fabric, but the innermost layer of structural leather). This is opposed to the traditional and more expensive method of stitching the welt directly to the insole. The glue method obviously doesn't last as long and is harder to repair if something happens, but having a cork filler doesn't automatically mean they use the glue method. I'd have to have a pair in hand to deconstruct to say for sure. Regardless, they are obviously good boots and get good reviews from virtually everybody, and I'd have to tear them apart along with other boots in the same price range to really determine how they are made and whether or not they are better.

Yep, I have no doubt that the "corded" shaft is a cost-cutting measure.  I have never owned corded shaft boots, so I don't know if any stitching is supposed to come through the lining, but it is on regular, stitched boots.  Last  time I was in a western store, I noticed that a number of the cheaper boots (including, I think, shockingly some Lucchese 1883 or whatever their low end model was/is) had multi row stitching that didn't go through the lining.  Weird looking.

There is a video on their site showing their construction methods to some degree.  I believe you can see both pegs and brass nails being used in the arch.

https://player.vimeo.com/video/141478656

I'd be real interested in your comments and observations on that.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

3 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

Yep, I have no doubt that the "corded" shaft is a cost-cutting measure.  I have never owned corded shaft boots, so I don't know if any stitching is supposed to come through the lining, but it is on regular, stitched boots.  Last  time I was in a western store, I noticed that a number of the cheaper boots (including, I think, shockingly some Lucchese 1883 or whatever their low end model was/is) had multi row stitching that didn't go through the lining.  Weird looking.

There is a video on their site showing their construction methods to some degree.  I believe you can see both pegs and brass nails being used in the arch.

https://player.vimeo.com/video/141478656

I'd be real interested in your comments and observations on that.

I'm not all up on industrial level bootmaking, but it at least appears they are sewing the welt to the insole. Not the traditional channeled grove method that the best boots are made with, but decent enough. It looks like their method leaves a gap where they have to insert some sort of filler. That's where the cork comes in. It's also cheaper than leather. 

 

As far as their logging process goes,  I'm less concerned about what material they are using compared to how they are making the holes. They are basically drilling the holes, compared to the traditional method of using an awl. A drill removes material, while an awl just pushes it out of the way. With an awl and lemonwood pegs, the leather swells back up around the pegs and holds them in. The pegs also swell when they get wet, making them more secure in all weather conditions. When you drill the holes that can't happen no matter what material the pegs are made of. The pegs at this point are practically cosmetic and they are relying mostly on the strength of the glue to hold them together.

[billfromlaketravis 11444]

On 3/21/2019 at 3:09 PM, Irwin F Fletcher said:

New Cartwright Tecovas arrived the other day to go along with my pair of Dukes and old Pecos Red Wings.

I think I might need an intervention as it probably won't be long before I get the urge to pull the trigger on their lizard boots.

I would suggest not buying ropers. 

Edited March 23, 2019 by billfromlaketravis

[billfromlaketravis 11444]

23 hours ago, Irwin F Fletcher said:

I get where you're coming from, but I've never tucked my jeans inside my boots so noone ever really sees the uppers when I wear them.

Agreed. You have to be doing some pretty serious farming/ranching to tuck them in. And that point, you're drifting into Red Wing territory. 

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Or you might just be walking through a bit of mud and want to keep your pants clean.

[Irwin F Fletcher 3550]

Dammit - your picture made me remember how much I loved my 30+ year old old Red Wings that got destroyed by my pup last year...  Can you even buy them anymore (and if so, are they the same quality)? 

So I just tried to search online and their classic boot doesn't seem to be available.......that sucks. I bought my first pair of Red Wing boots back in 1989 when I was seting off for college and that pair sailed around the world with me when I was a Midshipmen back at the Academy (wore them as an unregulated military shoe when I was over in the Arabian Gulf....though it was the Merchant Marines so we kind of beat to our own drum). Now they collect dust in the garage. Second pair I bought I wear every day for work then switch to my steel toed lace ups on the job sight. I should probably dust those old ones off and get them cleaned up.

[billfromlaketravis 11444]

Just now, thestud said:

 

Here ya go

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucchese-University-Of-Texas-Scholarship-Boots/192865962859?hash=item2ce7b50b6b:g:DVkAAOSwmwFclBzI

Cool boots, but I've never seen a man wear them. My wife has pair. The white uppers take them into lady territory. 

*Disclaimer: I'm a city slicker that grew up in Northwest Houston, Austin, and Lake Travis. My father in law has a legitimate farming/ranching operation outside of Midland. If you think you're country, head out there. Some of them have never seen a pair of round toe boots.^

[TwiceHorn 31431]

7 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

I'm not all up on industrial level bootmaking, but it at least appears they are sewing the welt to the insole. Not the traditional channeled grove method that the best boots are made with, but decent enough. It looks like their method leaves a gap where they have to insert some sort of filler. That's where the cork comes in. It's also cheaper than leather. 

 

As far as their logging process goes,  I'm less concerned about what material they are using compared to how they are making the holes. They are basically drilling the holes, compared to the traditional method of using an awl. A drill removes material, while an awl just pushes it out of the way. With an awl and lemonwood pegs, the leather swells back up around the pegs and holds them in. The pegs also swell when they get wet, making them more secure in all weather conditions. When you drill the holes that can't happen no matter what material the pegs are made of. The pegs at this point are practically cosmetic and they are relying mostly on the strength of the glue to hold them together.

Great observations. I think you are dead right about many modern welt/insole systems like "j-flex" etc.  I was thinking the cork might have been kind of midway between. I knew about pegs and swelling but not the awl issue, that is good shit. I suppose as long as the drilled holes are undersized, there's at least some of the swollen interference fit. As I understand it, pegs are there to position the shank, so they wouldn't be entirely cosmetic no matter how easily they might fall out. 

[Hornius Emeritus 12448]

10 hours ago, thestud said:

 

Here ya go

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucchese-University-Of-Texas-Scholarship-Boots/192865962859?hash=item2ce7b50b6b:g:DVkAAOSwmwFclBzI

 

Those are the Lucchese 1883s, which are their cheap line.

You can get a brand new pair at the Co-op for $499.99.

And whoever said that the white uppers take them in lady boot territory can fight me. 

[Masshole Horn 769]

Dammit - your picture made me remember how much I loved my 30+ year old old Red Wings that got destroyed by my pup last year...  Can you even buy them anymore (and if so, are they the same quality)? 

You can still get the Red Wing Pecos, but you need to go to a store to order them. I recently purchased some, they seem every bit the quality of my long gone pair. Still made in the USA.

http://www.redwingshoes.com/red-wing-shoe/1178-red-wing-shoes/1178-red-wing-mens-11-inch-pull-on-boot-brown

[Grimas 669]

1 hour ago, Masshole Horn said:

 

You can still get the Red Wing Pecos, but you need to go to a store to order them. I recently purchased some, they seem every bit the quality of my long gone pair. Still made in the USA.

http://www.redwingshoes.com/red-wing-shoe/1178-red-wing-shoes/1178-red-wing-mens-11-inch-pull-on-boot-brown

 

Thanks! Do you remember what they cost now?  (Never mind-$270)

Edited March 23, 2019 by Grimas

[Masshole Horn 769]

Thanks! Do you remember what they cost now?  (Never mind-$270)

MSRP, but the guy gave me $20 off with some code he had behind the register.

[Llano Estacado 1257]

Welp. Good or bad the guys from Rtic have found another idea from someone else they can do cheaper.

 

https://www.cuero.com

 

Is up and running. Calfskin and Suede offerings currently. Launching at $150 I’m tempted to get some calfskin beaters, but feel some loyalty to Tecovas.

 

[Kennythetiger 9374]

I like the looks of the Eastwoods.

Edit:  Alison, especially, but those boots aren't bad either.

Edited March 23, 2019 by Kennythetiger

[Art Vandelay 1712]

Welp. Good or bad the guys from Rtic have found another idea from someone else they can do cheaper.
 
https://www.cuero.com
 
Is up and running. Calfskin and Suede offerings currently. Launching at $150 I’m tempted to get some calfskin beaters, but feel some loyalty to Tecovas.
 

Funny, I was gonna post about these today. I'm tempted too. I figure I'll be buying more Tecovas in the future regardless so I might do it. Do I really need another pair of beaters is the question.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Dang. If I hadn't just bought a new pair of Anderson beans I probably would.

[Llano Estacado 1257]

Do I really need another pair of beaters is the question.

Yes, is the answer. Need to have “nice” beaters and bad beaters in an array of colors.

Justin, Redwing, AB, Nocona, Tecovas, Cuero, et al.

[Art Vandelay 1712]

Yes, is the answer. Need to have “nice” beaters and bad beaters in an array of colors.

Justin, Redwing, AB, Nocona, Tecovas, Cuero, et al.

You make a good case.

[Masshole Horn 769]

Hmmmm... never owned a suede boot. What is the care protocol? Do they stain very easily?

[4th&Five 41506]

Wow. Thinking about purchasing a pair too. Based on their instagram they have ostrich and caiman on the way too. 

[Masshole Horn 769]

Just pulled the trigger on the suede western heel in wheat. Will report back when I get them.

 

[TwiceHorn 31431]

5 hours ago, Masshole Horn said:

Hmmmm... never owned a suede boot. What is the care protocol? Do they stain very easily?

Not sure about the latest iterations of "waterproof" suede, but traditionally, you keep them up with a wire brush and pumice stone.  Moreso than staining, when they get wet and or "rubbed" on, they go "shiny" and kind of discolored.  The wire brush and pumice stone keep the "nap" up, and get dirt out of it.  Frequent treatment with spray silicone water proofer (Scotchgard type stuff) can help.

[Art Vandelay 1712]

Pulled the trigger on a pair of Cuero Eastwoods in black. Just couldn't pass up the price and I don't currently have any black boots.

[Masshole Horn 769]

If Cuero knows their shit, they’ll release a full-quill turkey boot named The Gobbler.