Hastag Menswear - Win Instagram or Die Trying

[sidis 9,821]

Solid delivery today. Maybe if I fly somewhere not in Texas, I could wear it. 

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

Piggy backing on the above, does anyone have a go to for quality sweaters (maybe a step below BC) for the colder months? I gave up on retail button downs in favor of a local shirt maker for the warm weather months (excellent decision), but I haven’t made a similar break through on sweaters. 

[sidis 9,821]

10 minutes ago, Reynolds Woodcock said:

Piggy backing on the above, does anyone have a go to for quality sweaters (maybe a step below BC) for the colder months? I gave up on retail button downs in favor of a local shirt maker for the warm weather months (excellent decision), but I haven’t made a similar break through on sweaters. 

for a while 5-7 years ago, peter millar was making a good quarterzip that was the right weight and did a nice job of cinching at the bottom.  i haven't gotten a new one in a while though so no updates.  don't know anything about your profile, but for a slimmer, modern profile...theory and eleventy both do a nice one.  for a bit broader, vince does a good one.

[G650 14,229]

I generally prefer Johnston's of Elgin for knitwear, and if you don't want to spend on the cashmere they do offer a lambswool range as well.

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

On 9/20/2022 at 1:52 PM, G650 said:

I generally prefer Johnston's of Elgin for knitwear, and if you don't want to spend on the cashmere they do offer a lambswool range as well.

Great rec. I picked up a few and these have been my winter rotation. Easy free and quick delivery to New York  too.

On 9/16/2022 at 7:25 AM, G650 said:

 

Being in construction I don't do a lot of oxfords or anything on a daily basis. My main shoes are Rancourt Camp Mocs in the summer and Dubarry Chelsea boots in the winter, both companies offer complete recrafting as well. Dubarry does it for free, I've had my boots redone once by them already.

Why Dubarry instead of C&J?

[G650 14,229]

10 minutes ago, Reynolds Woodcock said:

Great rec. I picked up a few and these have been my winter rotation. Easy free and quick delivery to New York  too.

Why Dubarry instead of C&J?

In my case for a lot of actual in the dirt time. C&J totally good if you are not mucking it. I have a ton of C&J shoes, quality brand.

Edited February 12, 2023 by G650

[52-80 19,142]

functional casual sweaters for cold, if youre not doing layering under sportcoats a la menswear, which i more or less havent done since the Rona

https://www.devold.com/en-gb/product-type/sweaters/?category=Man&sortStrategy=8

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

Is there a consensus on quality dark jeans that are neither cut too skinny nor too dad jean, without any sort of branding on the back pockets? Does such a thing exist? 511 Levi’s are a bit too skinny, 501s a bit too billowy.

It used to be the norm to show up to client dinners in a suit, which I prefer, but post pandemic almost everyone seems to be wearing jeans on a regular basis.

 

Edit to add: by “quality” I don't mean some concrete rigid Japanese denim I have to wear every day unwashed for 3 years before they look like an actual pair of blue jeans.

Edited February 15, 2023 by Reynolds Woodcock

[Ollie Slatt 289]

1 hour ago, Reynolds Woodcock said:

Is there a consensus on quality dark jeans that are neither cut too skinny nor too dad jean, without any sort of branding on the back pockets? Does such a thing exist? 511 Levi’s are a bit too skinny, 501s a bit too billowy.

It used to be the norm to show up to client dinners in a suit, which I prefer, but post pandemic almost everyone seems to be wearing jeans on a regular basis.

 

Edit to add: by “quality” I don't mean some concrete rigid Japanese denim I have to wear every day unwashed for 3 years before they look like an actual pair of blue jeans.

Nothing wrong with 501s.  Everyone under 30 seems to be wearing rather full cut jeans these days, so something like 511s are actually now the "dad jeans".  501s also have a reasonably high rise, so they can work with a tucked in shirt.  

If you want higher end than levis, other brands to look at would be RRL and Imogene & Willie.  

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

2 hours ago, Ollie Slatt said:

Nothing wrong with 501s.  Everyone under 30 seems to be wearing rather full cut jeans these days, so something like 511s are actually now the "dad jeans".  501s also have a reasonably high rise, so they can work with a tucked in shirt.  

If you want higher end than levis, other brands to look at would be RRL and Imogene & Willie.  

Yeah, I know I’m starting to age out of my neighborhood in lower Manhattan because my local watering holes look like a Clueless recasting after 10pm.

 

[sidis 9,821]

5 hours ago, Reynolds Woodcock said:

Is there a consensus on quality dark jeans that are neither cut too skinny nor too dad jean, without any sort of branding on the back pockets? Does such a thing exist? 511 Levi’s are a bit too skinny, 501s a bit too billowy.

It used to be the norm to show up to client dinners in a suit, which I prefer, but post pandemic almost everyone seems to be wearing jeans on a regular basis.

 

Edit to add: by “quality” I don't mean some concrete rigid Japanese denim I have to wear every day unwashed for 3 years before they look like an actual pair of blue jeans.

https://www.paige.com/men/normandie-straight

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

1 hour ago, sidis said:

https://www.paige.com/men/normandie-straight

Thanks, there is one of those stores just a few blocks up from me. I’ll check it out

[tx 3 putt 76,862]

7 hours ago, Reynolds Woodcock said:

Is there a consensus on quality dark jeans that are neither cut too skinny nor too dad jean, without any sort of branding on the back pockets? Does such a thing exist? 511 Levi’s are a bit too skinny, 501s a bit too billowy.

It used to be the norm to show up to client dinners in a suit, which I prefer, but post pandemic almost everyone seems to be wearing jeans on a regular basis.

 

Edit to add: by “quality” I don't mean some concrete rigid Japanese denim I have to wear every day unwashed for 3 years before they look like an actual pair of blue jeans.

 

im still a whore for lucky brand, slight pocket design though 

[Da Fino 2,772]

2 hours ago, sidis said:

https://www.paige.com/men/normandie-straight

I wear these and the most normal slimmy 7’s. 

[conVINCEd 21,469]

17 minutes ago, tx 3 putt said:

 

im still a whore for lucky brand, slight pocket design though 

Plus, when your lady friend pulls your zipper down she has a visual reminder of how fortunate she is to be in your presence.  I haven’t bought anything else in the last 10 years.

[sidis 9,821]

3 minutes ago, Da Fino said:

I wear these and the most normal slimmy 7’s. 

I prefer Paige federals myself but I’m a sexy bitch. 

reynolds sounded like he was looking for something slightly more relaxed but not old man jeans so those seem ideal. 

[tx 3 putt 76,862]

6 minutes ago, conVINCEd said:

Plus, when your lady friend pulls your zipper down she has a visual reminder of how fortunate she is to be in your presence.  I haven’t bought anything else in the last 10 years.

 

you're supposed to wear your zipper up ?

[conVINCEd 21,469]

1 minute ago, tx 3 putt said:

 

you're supposed to wear your zipper up ?

It’s optional, but I enjoy the reveal.

[Celery Man 20,929]

I feel wrong in anything but Levis. I wish I didn't because they are so inconsistent, but I do. Jeans without the Levis stitching on the back pocket is like a strat with a PRS headstock. Ollie is correct that 511s are the new dad jeans. I'm fine with that, although I'm trying to get used to wearing higher rise pants without feeling like a magoo.

[Gladeite 375]

Paige and 511s have been my go to the last 10 years but have recently switched to Lululemon ABC and Commission pants.  Very comfortable and good color selection.

[G650 14,229]

The '67 LVC 505s are generally the best all around Levis cut imo. But that can be body dependent.

 

Barbenera makes a really good jean called the Bandito if you want some lighter weight than a typical Levi LVC.

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

Thanks gents

[HamsterHookah 112]

I'm stuck in a time loop so that means I've only worn 7forallmankind jeans for the last 15 years. They have gone from chic to cheap and basic, which seems to have followed my general downward trajectory as well. 

[Da Fino 2,772]

I'm stuck in a time loop so that means I've only worn 7forallmankind jeans for the last 15 years. They have gone from chic to cheap and basic, which seems to have followed my general downward trajectory as well. 

I personally think that 7 makes some good shit right now.

[gsoda3 3,245]

I don't think Joe's has a visible tag on the back. I just bought a pair of Mavis straight legs a couple hours ago. I was debating between those, lucky, and Paige federals. Will probably also grab a pair of AG Tellis if I have time this week. Any of those are quality.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4,974]

I'm a Levi's 517 or 527 kind of guy. 514 if I'm not wearing boots, but half the time I just cuff my boot cut jeans so they don't drag the ground if I'm wearing my boat shoes or driving shoes. I could care less if they aren't up to the latest fashions. I guess I'm just getting old. My biggest problem is that I have a narrow waist, and the if you go below 32 in Levi's they assume you have some turkey legs. So I don't wash them unless they get visibly dirty because they shrink back up.

[CycleTex87 2,965]

@G650

PSA:  Rancourt Spring Sale:  https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/spring-pre-order

Some good deals in there, you just have to wait for manufacture.  Classic Ranger Moc for me.  Love those shoes.  

 

[G650 14,229]

1 minute ago, CycleTex87 said:

@G650

PSA:  Rancourt Spring Sale:  https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/spring-pre-order

Some good deals in there, you just have to wait for manufacture.  Classic Ranger Moc for me.  Love those shoes.  

 

Nice. I really need to send my camp mocs up for recrafting one of these days. I love those damn things.

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

On 2/20/2023 at 11:46 AM, CycleTex87 said:

@G650

PSA:  Rancourt Spring Sale:  https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/spring-pre-order

Some good deals in there, you just have to wait for manufacture.  Classic Ranger Moc for me.  Love those shoes.  

 

So I ordered some Gilmans from this link for like $100 off, said they would be ready in approximately June. Just arrived today. I’ll take it

Edited February 22, 2023 by Reynolds Woodcock

[CycleTex87 2,965]

Same. I ordered the Ranger Mocs and they arrive tomorrow.  Was thinking June would be cool because I would’ve probably forgotten about them by then and it would be like a surprise. 

[Sam Lin 3,550]

Never tried the brand, worth a try. Can anyone speak to how the sizes run compared to Allen Edmonds? True to size?

[CycleTex87 2,965]

I'd say they are about the same as Allen Edmonds.  True to size. I wear a 10C in AE, and a 10D in Rancourt.

[sidis 9,821]

Today’s tasks… @G650 @ChiTownDoc

[G650 14,229]

57 minutes ago, sidis said:

Today’s tasks… @G650 @ChiTownDoc

 

That's where I'd rather be today goddammit. Who are you seeing?

[ChiTownDoc 21,139]

4 hours ago, sidis said:

Today’s tasks… @G650 @ChiTownDoc

Jealous my man.  Which shop?

Edit: You can’t go wrong there but Dege & Skinner along w Huntsman stood out.  

Edited June 17, 2023 by ChiTownDoc

[G650 14,229]

Huntsman is owned by a conglomerate these days and is half MTM by appearances. I do think they still probably cut a sharp suit, though some complain about collar gap. Last I heard Campell Carey is the head cutter

[ChiTownDoc 21,139]

10 minutes ago, G650 said:

Huntsman is owned by a conglomerate these days and is half MTM by appearances. I do think they still probably cut a sharp suit, though some complain about collar gap. Last I heard Campell Carey is the head cutter

Prob way too much scotch last few times there.  Huntsman was in the Kingsman movie right?  I was there before and hate to assume the worst, but that sort of pub can make a cash grab tempting.  

God damn London is great.  Wish I went more often.  
 

Enjoy Sidis. 

[sidis 9,821]

3 hours ago, G650 said:

 

That's where I'd rather be today goddammit. Who are you seeing?

 

46 minutes ago, ChiTownDoc said:

Jealous my man.  Which shop?

Edit: You can’t go wrong there but Dege & Skinner along w Huntsman stood out.  

It is a Norton & Sons kind of day…

[G650 14,229]

11 minutes ago, ChiTownDoc said:

Prob way too much scotch last few times there.  Huntsman was in the Kingsman movie right?  I was there before and hate to assume the worst, but that sort of pub can make a cash grab tempting.  

 

 

Indeed. But the genesis of their current state started with an investment banker who bought Huntsman for his boyfriend to run. I think it's probably not as Dire as say 10 years ago, but they are no longer an exclusively bespoke house. Campbell is a solid cutter so that is good, but it's a far cry from the glory days of Colin Hammick. The style is very middle of the road these days.

 

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3319930/SEBASTIAN-SHAKESPEARE-160m-divorce-tycoon-splits-gay-lover.html

 

12 minutes ago, ChiTownDoc said:

God damn London is great.  Wish I went more often.

 

Truth. Before I had family responsibilities I was there at least a half a dozen times a year.

10 minutes ago, sidis said:

 

It is a Norton & Sons kind of day…

 

Nice. Is Patruck Grant still there?

[ChiTownDoc 21,139]

22 minutes ago, G650 said:

 

Indeed. But the genesis of their current state started with an investment banker who bought Huntsman for his boyfriend to run. I think it's probably not as Dire as say 10 years ago, but they are no longer an exclusively bespoke house. Campbell is a solid cutter so that is good, but it's a far cry from the glory days of Colin Hammick. The style is very middle of the road these days.

 

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3319930/SEBASTIAN-SHAKESPEARE-160m-divorce-tycoon-splits-gay-lover.html

 

 

Truth. Before I had family responsibilities I was there at least a half a dozen times a year.

 

Nice. Is Patruck Grant still there?

That profile pic definitely checks out.  Yes sir. 

[sidis 9,821]

1 hour ago, G650 said:

 

Indeed. But the genesis of their current state started with an investment banker who bought Huntsman for his boyfriend to run. I think it's probably not as Dire as say 10 years ago, but they are no longer an exclusively bespoke house. Campbell is a solid cutter so that is good, but it's a far cry from the glory days of Colin Hammick. The style is very middle of the road these days.

 

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3319930/SEBASTIAN-SHAKESPEARE-160m-divorce-tycoon-splits-gay-lover.html

 

 

Truth. Before I had family responsibilities I was there at least a half a dozen times a year.

 

Nice. Is Patruck Grant still there?

He’s the owner and director of tailors but nowhere to be found today…

[G650 14,229]

11 minutes ago, sidis said:

He’s the owner and director of tailors but nowhere to be found today…

Yes indeed. Bummer, always good to talk to the top man. Probably takes it easy on Saturdays

[Not that Bob 735]

Please make some hot weather suggestions. I like pinpoint but damned if I'm going to wear it in 105. What brands of polos keep their shape and are not heavy? I've looked for "warm weather sport coats", but none of them look "cool" to me. Casual. I'm not dressing  up in this heat. 

[locodos 5,387]

Question for the Surly Clotheshound mafia...

My son is finally looking to improve or develop some style in clothing.  He announced this a few weeks ago and his mother I were optimistic that he's beginning to mature some.  However, being his father, he pretty much will not hear a thing I have to say, unless it happens to align with his current thinking.  It's always been the case.

He's a good looking kid (20yrs old) in college and wears jeans, shorts, tees, and a few collared shirts.  It's hot here year round so winter clothes aren't really a thing.

The problem is that his last trip to the mall/stores (he's home for the summer)  yielded truly shocking results.  Literally some wife beaters and a new shitty gold chain that he ensures is constantly hanging outside his shirt.  Out of nowhere it's Jersey shore up in here.

My question is where would you encourage a young man to look for styles and looks that they can emulate?   I thought about magazines, but they're basically dead.  Is everything just social media, influencers, and fast fashion?   I was hoping he would go for a timeless/classic style vs douchebag chic.

 

 

[sidis 9,821]

2 hours ago, locodos said:

My son is finally looking to improve or develop some style in clothing.  He announced this a few weeks ago

...

Literally some wife beaters and a new shitty gold chain that he ensures is constantly hanging outside his shirt. 

[Reynolds Woodcock 4,738]

3 hours ago, locodos said:

Question for the Surly Clotheshound mafia...

My son is finally looking to improve or develop some style in clothing.  He announced this a few weeks ago and his mother I were optimistic that he's beginning to mature some.  However, being his father, he pretty much will not hear a thing I have to say, unless it happens to align with his current thinking.  It's always been the case.

He's a good looking kid (20yrs old) in college and wears jeans, shorts, tees, and a few collared shirts.  It's hot here year round so winter clothes aren't really a thing.

The problem is that his last trip to the mall/stores (he's home for the summer)  yielded truly shocking results.  Literally some wife beaters and a new shitty gold chain that he ensures is constantly hanging outside his shirt.  Out of nowhere it's Jersey shore up in here.

My question is where would you encourage a young man to look for styles and looks that they can emulate?   I thought about magazines, but they're basically dead.  Is everything just social media, influencers, and fast fashion?   I was hoping he would go for a timeless/classic style vs douchebag chic.

 

 

You already know this, but your 20 year old son probably isn't taking clothing advice from his middle aged dad unless he is really special. I don't think throwing him a Sears catalog will do much good, so probably best to just roll your eyes and pat him on the head. We all wore our version of a gold chain at some point (well, maybe not G650, he probably had tailored onsies as a child). 

But to directly answer your question, yeah pretty much everything is online for someone his age.  Reddit MFA forums actually aren't terrible for someone who is 20 with (presumably) little money to get a read on basics. And I'm sure there is some tik tok shit I'm now too old to know about. 

[Sam Lin 3,550]

Esquire 10yrs ago was pretty decent. It isn't that great now. If you could find someone selling back issues from 15-10yrs ago, that'd be a good start. Dappered the blog is also a good place to start.

[G650 14,229]

Menswear dudes on IG, the Menswear forums, some blogs would be my recommendation

[Ollie Slatt 289]

Most of the stuff I look at is more targeted towards middle aged guys (putthison.com, Drake's lookbook, DieWorkwear, etc.), so maybe not the best fit for a 20 yr old.   Todd Snyder and No Man Walks Alone sell semi-classic clothes a stylish 20 year old might like, but the prices are too high for most people that age.  

Maybe tell him to check out EdgyAlbert on Insta/TikTok.  Guy has tolerable style compared to most Gen Z influencers.

[Trey3216 15,343]

On 2/15/2023 at 11:58 AM, Reynolds Woodcock said:

Is there a consensus on quality dark jeans that are neither cut too skinny nor too dad jean, without any sort of branding on the back pockets? Does such a thing exist? 511 Levi’s are a bit too skinny, 501s a bit too billowy.

It used to be the norm to show up to client dinners in a suit, which I prefer, but post pandemic almost everyone seems to be wearing jeans on a regular basis.

 

Edit to add: by “quality” I don't mean some concrete rigid Japanese denim I have to wear every day unwashed for 3 years before they look like an actual pair of blue jeans.

I like Levi's 527's the best.