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Could You Move to a Small Town


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Moved from Houston to Tyler 18 years ago expecting to move to Austin 3--5 years later.  Still here.  It's grown.  There are things I don't love, but there are way more things I do love about it.  Considered jumping to New Braunfels about 15 years ago, but glad I did not.

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On 8/27/2019 at 7:38 PM, mooseoutfront said:

To answer the questions:

Internet is actually pretty good.  We have 4G at the cabin and can stream on our devices.  We use a generator to keep things charged up.  Electricity is available, but it's expensive.  We're about 20 to 30 poles away from being able to hook up to it, but at $8000 per pole it's not worth it.  With all the tourists in the area right now internet can be spotty during peak usage hours, but in the Winter that's not a problem since 80% of the population leaves.  I've let go of basically all sports except Longhorn Football.  I usually stream the Craig Way radio feed for the games.  As far as Winter goes, it gets cold where I am. It's typically in the 20 to 30 below zero range.  The coldest I ever saw was 72 below.  The warmest we've seen is 94 above.  My closest neighbor is about 800 yards as the raven flies through the woods and we do not get along.  I might have some serial killer stories if I ever find him on my property again.  The famous "Magic Bus" of "Into the Wild" fame is about 30 miles from my front door.

Sounds like paradise, damn lucky.

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On 8/27/2019 at 7:38 PM, mooseoutfront said:

To answer the questions:

Internet is actually pretty good.  We have 4G at the cabin and can stream on our devices.  We use a generator to keep things charged up.  Electricity is available, but it's expensive.  We're about 20 to 30 poles away from being able to hook up to it, but at $8000 per pole it's not worth it.  With all the tourists in the area right now internet can be spotty during peak usage hours, but in the Winter that's not a problem since 80% of the population leaves.  I've let go of basically all sports except Longhorn Football.  I usually stream the Craig Way radio feed for the games.  As far as Winter goes, it gets cold where I am. It's typically in the 20 to 30 below zero range.  The coldest I ever saw was 72 below.  The warmest we've seen is 94 above.  My closest neighbor is about 800 yards as the raven flies through the woods and we do not get along.  I might have some serial killer stories if I ever find him on my property again.  The famous "Magic Bus" of "Into the Wild" fame is about 30 miles from my front door.

Something about the fact that a crazy Alaskan mooseman was living though the hard times of the Strong years with me really puts the smallness of the world into perspective. 

 

Like. What did you do after the KU loss?  Just go walk around in a blizzard to numb the pain?

 

also why don’t you get along with your neighbor?  Is he  sooner?  

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On 8/27/2019 at 1:14 PM, Pato del Muerto said:

Being in downtown Denver for a few days has reminded me about what I miss about cities (food, entertainment options), and what I hate about them (traffic, people). 

 

Most posters here seem to fall into one of two two camps. Live small/visit large or live large/visit small. I’m in the former. I can get my big city fix a few times a year,, and all I need are a few days before I’m antsy to get out. In fact, a nice medium-size city of 100,000-300,000 will sometimes suffice...if it’s nice. 

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I'd forgotten about the poster who moved to nowhere Colorado to be a cook in a tiny restaurant, bought a large dog, somehow fell in love with a black chick in NYC. JMT? Such a strange trajectory, at least to me. I guess in the whole  picture though it kinda balances out Rocko moving to Hawaii and finding some Scandinavian sloot. 

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My retirement plan (age ~52 hopefully) is to be Monday through Thursday at my little ranch in Mills County, and then drive in to Austin for Thursday night through Sunday night. Technically I'm just outside Mullin, but realistically I only see the neighbors if they happen to be driving past the dirt road the same time I stop and open the gate. By then I'll trade my suburban house for a townhome or condo that is less maintenance. That way I get a few days of city dining, movies, music, UT sports, etc before having some down time puttering at the ranch. I super hate mowing my lawn, but I'll gladly cut cedar and spray mesquite all day. I'm not sure if my wife will join me - she's a workaholic and finds the idea of taking retirement asap odd (I'm at the state, she's a teacher). I have this dream of buying a used backhoe and dump trailer and digging a giant hole, and making an equally giant hill from the spoils. Future people will see my hole/pond and be like "damn, some weird dude decided dig a giant fucking hole in the ground." 

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2 hours ago, CleverNickname said:

My retirement plan (age ~52 hopefully) is to be Monday through Thursday at my little ranch in Mills County, and then drive in to Austin for Thursday night through Sunday night. Technically I'm just outside Mullin, but realistically I only see the neighbors if they happen to be driving past the dirt road the same time I stop and open the gate. By then I'll trade my suburban house for a townhome or condo that is less maintenance. That way I get a few days of city dining, movies, music, UT sports, etc before having some down time puttering at the ranch. I super hate mowing my lawn, but I'll gladly cut cedar and spray mesquite all day. I'm not sure if my wife will join me - she's a workaholic and finds the idea of taking retirement asap odd (I'm at the state, she's a teacher). I have this dream of buying a used backhoe and dump trailer and digging a giant hole, and making an equally giant hill from the spoils. Future people will see my hole/pond and be like "damn, some weird dude decided dig a giant fucking hole in the ground." 

And pass up Goldthwaite?

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15 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Around here you're lucky for the opportunity to buy beer in a 30 mile radius if you live in a town of 700. Only slightly exaggerating. 

To me, 700 is a fairly established town.  Tiny is under 50/unincorporated.

I went to school in a town of 700, and it currently has 3 bars (2 have food), 2 gas stations, and a Dollar Genearl.  That's 6 places to buy beer, and it's not even considered to have an unusually high alcohol purchase point to resident ratio.

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Thinking about it.  This city desert makes me feel so cold, it's got so many people but it's got no soul.  And it's taking me so long to find out I was wrong when I thought it held everything.  I used to think that it was so easy, I used to say that it was so easy, but I'm trying, I'm trying now.

Edited by clapclapclap
So yeah, I've got this dream about buying some land
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3 minutes ago, Al_4_ISU said:

To me, 700 is a fairly established town.  Tiny is under 50/unincorporated.

I went to school in a town of 700, and it currently has 3 bars (2 have food), 2 gas stations, and a Dollar Genearl.  That's 6 places to buy beer, and it's not even considered to have an unusually high alcohol purchase point to resident ratio.

I'm jealous. Our 2500 pop. town only has a bar at the bowling alley. We used to have 3 good restaraunt/cafe options but now we are down to a shitty mexican place and Casey's. I'm not a big drinker but I am a big eater so we make a trek to Wichita at least once a week for dining. You would think with the Czech/Catholic influence on our county that we would have more drinking options.

I'm taking applications for my replacement if any of you mechanical engineering types are looking for a job in rural America. If you don't need a bar, that is.

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19 minutes ago, Al_4_ISU said:

To me, 700 is a fairly established town.  Tiny is under 50/unincorporated.

I went to school in a town of 700, and it currently has 3 bars (2 have food), 2 gas stations, and a Dollar Genearl.  That's 6 places to buy beer, and it's not even considered to have an unusually high alcohol purchase point to resident ratio.

I guess you've been lucky enough to miss out on a lot of the blue law and associated crap that happens down here. I can hardly imagine a town of 700 having three bars (other than Bandera, which had like 12 for 850 folks when I lived nearby).

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17 minutes ago, Shoxthemonkey said:

I'm jealous. Our 2500 pop. town only has a bar at the bowling alley. We used to have 3 good restaraunt/cafe options but now we are down to a shitty mexican place and Casey's. I'm not a big drinker but I am a big eater so we make a trek to Wichita at least once a week for dining. You would think with the Czech/Catholic influence on our county that we would have more drinking options.

I'm taking applications for my replacement if any of you mechanical engineering types are looking for a job in rural America. If you don't need a bar, that is.

The Mennonites mush have leaked into your area more than expected. 

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4 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

I guess you've been lucky enough to miss out on a lot of the blue law and associated crap that happens down here. I can hardly imagine a town of 700 having three bars (other than Bandera, which had like 12 for 850 folks when I lived nearby).

Unless you had a bunch of Dutch Reformed start your town, the bar church ratio stays pretty close to 1.5 to 1.0 on Bars to churches for German and Czech settled in Nebraska and Iowa 

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44 minutes ago, ImissWallyPryor said:

And pass up Goldthwaite?

Goldthwaithe is the shit.  Used to stop at the DQ there as a kid on the way to the ranch (near Coleman).  Video games (rare for DQ).  Creepy condom, machine in the bathroom.  Dude sandwich with large fries and a blizzard.  Living large.

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4 minutes ago, Royalfan5 said:

The Mennonites mush have leaked into your area more than expected. 

Yep. I'm one of them. My great Grandfather founded Bethel College in Newton.

Do you know why you always go fishing with a pair of Mennonites? If you take just one, he'll drink all your beer.

 

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10 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

I guess you've been lucky enough to miss out on a lot of the blue law and associated crap that happens down here. I can hardly imagine a town of 700 having three bars (other than Bandera, which had like 12 for 850 folks when I lived nearby).

We have zero blue laws, unless you count having to wait until 8AM (instead of the usual 6AM) on Sunday to buy booze.

I actually have Bandera at the top of the list of places to winter if I can do that as an old man.  Pull a trailer up next to the river for a few months, walk up to the bars, drive around the Hill Country with an old truck listening to Willie and Jerry Jeff all day.

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7 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

I guess you've been lucky enough to miss out on a lot of the blue law and associated crap that happens down here. I can hardly imagine a town of 700 having three bars (other than Bandera, which had like 12 for 850 folks when I lived nearby).

Coleman actually has two vineyards now and TWO liquor stores.  Well-off family from Dallas (worked for Texas Monthly, I think), friends with the O&G Goree family out of Midland, opened Pizza place and a wine bar.  Pretty damn good.  I could live out there easily. 

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7 minutes ago, Royalfan5 said:

Unless you had a bunch of Dutch Reformed start your town, the bar church ratio stays pretty close to 1.5 to 1.0 on Bars to churches for German and Czech settled in Nebraska and Iowa 

My hometown (pop. 120) had 2 bars until about a year ago.  There are places in Wisconsin where there are more bars than homes.  Like an intersection with two bars across the road from each other, one house, and a road sign that designates its "town" status.

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13 minutes ago, Al_4_ISU said:

My hometown (pop. 120) had 2 bars until about a year ago.  There are places in Wisconsin where there are more bars than homes.  Like an intersection with two bars across the road from each other, one house, and a road sign that designates its "town" status.

https://beatricedailysun.com/news/one-million-wings-and-counting/article_ebef2e50-7e2a-5e52-a6c0-7a7d5c2e8716.html

This is the bar in the town of 56 I grew up by. It was started by my Great Uncle in his living room, it then moved to his garage, and then they moved in a double wide when he retired. If you buy a 6 pack of off sale, it's a cut in half 12 pack so you can scoop and drive. The town my mom was from was 180 with two bars, with another 180 with two bars 7 miles down the road. But nobody can really match the Wisconsin folk for going somewhere else to drink than home. 

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20 minutes ago, Shoxthemonkey said:

Yep. I'm one of them. My great Grandfather founded Bethel College in Newton.

Do you know why you always go fishing with a pair of Mennonites? If you take just one, he'll drink all your beer.

 

My future father in law is from Newton, and his Mom was the Black sheep of a Mennonite family from Hillsboro, she apparently had very strong opinions about how they were doing things, and even changed her first name out of spite. 

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6 minutes ago, Royalfan5 said:

https://beatricedailysun.com/news/one-million-wings-and-counting/article_ebef2e50-7e2a-5e52-a6c0-7a7d5c2e8716.html

This is the bar in the town of 56 I grew up by. It was started by my Great Uncle in his living room, it then moved to his garage, and then they moved in a double wide when he retired. If you buy a 6 pack of off sale, it's a cut in half 12 pack so you can scoop and drive. The town my mom was from was 180 with two bars, with another 180 with two bars 7 miles down the road. But nobody can really match the Wisconsin folk for going somewhere else to drink than home. 

Fuck, that's worthy of a road trip.

The 6 pack off sale in a half cut 12er is a standard issue around these parts as well.  A half case cut into a 12er is a thing too.

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Just now, Al_4_ISU said:

Fuck, that's worthy of a road trip.

The 6 pack off sale in a half cut 12er is a standard issue around these parts as well.  A half case cut into a 12er is a thing too.

I actually got carded one of the last times I was in there. First time in my life, I wanted to pull the do you know who I am card, but I was more surprised that they were carding anyone now I didn't get it out. There's also one wall propped up by a rail road tie because it's been hit twice by different 12 years driving to town to get food to take about out to the field during harvest. 

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8 minutes ago, Royalfan5 said:

I actually got carded one of the last times I was in there. First time in my life, I wanted to pull the do you know who I am card, but I was more surprised that they were carding anyone now I didn't get it out. There's also one wall propped up by a rail road tie because it's been hit twice by different 12 years driving to town to get food to take about out to the field during harvest. 

This place couldn't possibly have any more Midwestern street cred if it tried.

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49 minutes ago, BabaYaga said:

Goldthwaithe is the shit.  Used to stop at the DQ there as a kid on the way to the ranch (near Coleman).  Video games (rare for DQ).  Creepy condom, machine in the bathroom.  Dude sandwich with large fries and a blizzard.  Living large.

 

48 minutes ago, SuingToGetAMessageBoard? said:

Defense!

 

I always think Goldthwaite looks like it's doing great when I drive through it.

I always go through Goldthwait when going to visit our daughter and grandkids. It has always seemed like a pretty cool place to me, always enjoyed grabbing a bite to eat and just cruising around when I go through.

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On 8/27/2019 at 1:01 PM, po elvis said:

It all depends on the small town. I didn't think I could, but i've been living in the mountains of Colorado for the last 8 weeks and am loving it. It is not getting old. Nearest town is 20 minutes away (population 300 year round, 7-800 in summertime). Nearest real grocery store is an hour and 20 minutes away. No traffic. Most vehicles wave when pass by. Entertainment is driving around looking for the moose, elk or bears. could i live here year round thru the winter? not sure on that. will be back in SA mid September. but at least i spent the summer in the 70's.

Lake City?

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12 hours ago, Xian said:

Something about the fact that a crazy Alaskan mooseman was living though the hard times of the Strong years with me really puts the smallness of the world into perspective. 

 

Like. What did you do after the KU loss?  Just go walk around in a blizzard to numb the pain?

 

also why don’t you get along with your neighbor?  Is he  sooner?  

Fucking Strong.

I went outside and split almost half a cord of firewood with a 2 bit axe.

He makes sooners seem downright cosmopolitan.  My neighbor is a special kind of asshole.  Mainly he's a violent drunk who is always looking for a confrontation.  He's armed at all times.  I've instructed my wife if she ever sees him on our property and she is alone to grab the AR, put 2 in his chest and call the troopers.    

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29 minutes ago, Al_4_ISU said:

That's what it sounded like.  I've stayed there 3-4 times, and it's absolutely huge with Texans.  Almost see more Texas plates than Colorado.

One of my favorite places, period.

yeah, family has had the property for 40 years and built on it 17-18 years ago. have only stayed here for a week or two at a time until this summer. the internet had been pretty bad the last several years, so we switched to satellite and it is good enough for me to work up here now. was going to stay for a month, but i am hitting two right now because i have enjoyed it so much. i take my laptop out onto the deck everyday and just sit and work as i look at the view. have a can of bear spray next to me. have had 4 bear sightings. never saw a bear here before in the 40 years.

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3 hours ago, Al_4_ISU said:

We have zero blue laws, unless you count having to wait until 8AM (instead of the usual 6AM) on Sunday to buy booze.

I actually have Bandera at the top of the list of places to winter if I can do that as an old man.  Pull a trailer up next to the river for a few months, walk up to the bars, drive around the Hill Country with an old truck listening to Willie and Waylon all day.

There, that's better.

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