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Mojo Hand

By Mojo Hand
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The University

The University 851

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Posted

i'm gonna live vicariously through this thread for awhile--doc doesn't want me doing handiwork and yardwork for awhile. sounds great, but after awhile you're pining for finding problems to fix.

on my to-do list:

- destroy and remove a cracking concrete patio and replacing it with wood and built in seating

- replace our somehow still working water heater from 1986

- pull out p.o.s. cabinets in garage and build out a workspace that is more useful

- flip the w/d in the garage to the other side of the wall which is a mudroom

- get rid of or sell a shitton of power tools that I no longer need. seems like i was a dumping ground for everyone's busted weed eaters and rusted clippers.

- leaf guards for the gutters. invent some roomba-type gadget to brush/blow all of the tree shit off the roof and clean the skylights (i can dream, right?)

- fix the damn lighting fixture in the guest bathroom that's been hanging precariously from the electrical box for the past decade

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G650

G650 14229

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Posted
49 minutes ago, Mojo Hand said:

Got a fuel pump to replace.   Gonna start with the fuel filter, though, and see if that does the trick.   If it's neither, back to the drawing board.

Is it an in tank pump? If so, and you fuel tank is so full it's still in the filler neck, it's probably the pump. Just because.

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Mojo Hand

Mojo Hand 4580

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Posted (edited)

Is it an in tank pump? If so, and you fuel tank is so full it's still in the filler neck, it's probably the pump. Just because.

Luckily no.  It's an old 90s Land Rover with easy direct access to the fuel pump through the rear floor.   The fuel filter access is through the wheel, but I think I can reach without taking it off.    The car sputtered for awhile before dying going up a hill and pressing the accelerator had no effect.   If it isn't the fuel pump, I don't know what it could be.

Edited by Mojo Hand
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SA-KC_Horn

SA-KC_Horn 1295

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Posted

Currently, I'm replacing the thermostat on a 3rd gen Dodge Ram. 

Sucks that they decided to place it under the engine (lower radiator hose). Anyhow, the wife said the Tgauge was erratic, so decided to change it. That became a long ass process. There are some many damn ways to refill and burp a 4.7L engine. So I decided to replace tstat then drain and refill. This was on a level ground. Flushed out the system. Did all the right steps and bam no heat and the temp gauge was over half mark. Note: this is a Mopar tstat.

Went vatozone and bought another tstat (duralst), lifted the front end drained the bitch and replaced the tstat again.

This time I filled up radiator and filled the expansion tank half way. 

Now this is where everyone has a different process depending on the type of tstat. The 1st tstat had a bleeder valve but the rubber gasket was different all the other aftermarket ones have a notch. But the 2nd tstat did have the notch that perfectly squeezed into the thermostat housing.

Again....replaced tstat closed everything up and topped off the radiator ran for 10-15 mins until the temp gauge hit the 1/4 mark turned it off and allowed to cool and topped off again......the heat was back and blowing hot and the temp gauge is before the half way mark.

Test drive is all good and she's ready to roll.

Im taking that shitty tstat back to Dodge and getting a refund.

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6647

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On 4/13/2018 at 1:03 PM, The University said:

on my to-do list:

- destroy and remove a cracking concrete patio and replacing it with wood and built in seating

- leaf guards for the gutters. invent some roomba-type gadget to brush/blow all of the tree shit off the roof and clean the skylights (i can dream, right?)

We can assist you with the demo on the patio if that's a bit too much for you - price would depend on whether or not we are removing the debris, priced per day + that hauling option.

As to the gutter situation, $ 11.00 / foot for a 1 story LeaFree system + any possible miscellaneous whatevers if required.  & We'll blow all the leaves off the roof included in the cost.  This would be an addition to your existing gutters with no removal / replacement of the existing system.

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6647

Posted
Posted
On 4/16/2018 at 2:52 PM, SA-KC_Horn said:

Currently, I'm replacing the thermostat on a 3rd gen Dodge Ram. 

Sucks that they decided to place it under the engine (lower radiator hose).

[Words Words Words]

Im taking that shitty tstat back to Dodge and getting a refund.

I'm certain @Mother mopar is unhappy with you.

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6647

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14 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:


Those fuckers on YouTube lie. I changed the multifunction switch on my z71 last month. Video was less than a half hour. Took me about 8.

Here's my current "YOU LIE!" YouTube vidja:

 

The problem with our '07 Tahoe isn't that the hose connecting part broke, it's the portion that connects to the silver tube.

maxresdefault.jpg

I have a hose fitting tool (the white "C" shaped fitting thingies) but can't get it to release from the plastic part.

To top it off, there is also a firewall connecting part & that also seems just as impossible to reach in & work on, but for now I'd be happy to get the silver tube (top one) disconnected from the quick connect.

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TexasEd

TexasEd 8066

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Posted
21 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

We can assist you with the demo on the patio if that's a bit too much for you - price would depend on whether or not we are removing the debris, priced per day + that hauling option.

As to the gutter situation, $ 11.00 / foot for a 1 story LeaFree system + any possible miscellaneous whatevers if required.  & We'll blow all the leaves off the roof included in the cost.  This would be an addition to your existing gutters with no removal / replacement of the existing system.

What's the cost on a 2nd story?  You can PM me if you want to come see what you'd be into.  I also need a short section of additional gutter added where I have none.

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ROFL BOX

ROFL BOX 6647

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, TexasEd said:

What's the cost on a 2nd story?  You can PM me if you want to come see what you'd be into.  I also need a short section of additional gutter added where I have none.

I've been to the house before for a small shingle repair; what section of the house are we talking about?  You can always screenshot your house via Google Maps & then post that into MS Paint, trim all the misc. off & send that over via text or email.

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SKA the boss

SKA the boss 729

Posted
Posted
  •  
On 4/22/2018 at 10:55 PM, Jkwellborn said:

 

The problem with our '07 Tahoe isn't that the hose connecting part broke, it's the portion that connects to the silver tube.

maxresdefault.jpg

I have a hose fitting tool (the white "C" shaped fitting thingies) but can't get it to release from the plastic part.

 

I'm curious how this went. Those little connections drive me crazy and I fucking HATE plastic. I would have ended up cracking it with a pair of needlenose pliers.

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Spur08

Spur08 382

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wife called this evening and told me the check engine light came on the 2013 Tahoe.  Went to Autozone and the code was "P015D -- O2 Sensor Delayed Response -- Lean to Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1"

The AutoZone guy suggested I get some Seafoam and run it through a tank of gas and then do 2 rounds of  RXP Gas Kicker, each through a tank of gas.  He said to replace the O2 sensor if the light doesn't go off after that.  How good of a chance is there for this to work?  I'm inclined to believe him since they don't even sell any of the RXP (he told me to go to OReilly's).  How big of a job is it to replace the O2 sensor?  FYI -- Changing brakes was a big job for me.

 

Edit -- After looking at a few videos, it doesn't look too bad.  Any particulars to consider?  When people change out the O2 sensor, do they just change the single one or all 4?

Edited by Spur08
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Texas007

Texas007 195

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Posted
17 hours ago, Spur08 said:

Wife called this evening and told me the check engine light came on the 2013 Tahoe.  Went to Autozone and the code was "P015D -- O2 Sensor Delayed Response -- Lean to Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1"

The AutoZone guy suggested I get some Seafoam and run it through a tank of gas and then do 2 rounds of  RXP Gas Kicker, each through a tank of gas.  He said to replace the O2 sensor if the light doesn't go off after that.  How good of a chance is there for this to work?  I'm inclined to believe him since they don't even sell any of the RXP (he told me to go to OReilly's).  How big of a job is it to replace the O2 sensor?  FYI -- Changing brakes was a big job for me.

 

Edit -- After looking at a few videos, it doesn't look too bad.  Any particulars to consider?  When people change out the O2 sensor, do they just change the single one or all 4?

That code can be a sign of other problems but its probably just the sensor going (~100k miles).

If you can get a volt meter on the leads (wiring harness maybe?) you can check and see if its bad. The "Sensor 1" is upstream of the catalytic converter so it should be fluctuating the voltage up and down quickly as its telling the PCM (computer) how rich or lean to adjust the fuel. If the voltage is lagging slowly that's the sensor going bad.

O2 sensors are typically easy to replace but there will invariably be one that is all hell to get to. 

This link has some good info about the code you got: https://www.obd-codes.com/p015d

Here's the YouTube replacement video

 Good luck   

 

 

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Jerry Callo

Jerry Callo 8695

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On 4/22/2018 at 10:55 PM, Jkwellborn said:


Those fuckers on YouTube lie. I changed the multifunction switch on my z71 last month. Video was less than a half hour. Took me about 8.

Hopefully it will go quicker the second time.

I changed mine out 6-7 months ago due to bright lights activating sometimes when using the turn signal.  Now the new one has issues like cruise control cutting off when using the turn signal and sometimes the turn signal failing to turn on at all.  I got the warranty replacement part and I'll install it, again, this weekend.

 

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elfenix

elfenix 34223

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Posted (edited)

replaced front struts with KYB's strut plus.  took me forever to get the things to seat back down into the hub carrier (hey genius, they rotate, you can just turn the bottom so tab A fits into slot B, and if they don't go, hit the bottom with a shot of PB blaster).  but then there was this tock-tock-tock noise coming from the mount while steering.  took it to a shop which told me it wasn't clocked properly, and charged me a pretty penny to fix it.  the whole goddamn point of the strut plus is so that i don't have to mess with anything to do with the spring, including clocking. 

 

/grumble

Edited by elfenix
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Spur08

Spur08 382

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Posted

Chevy Tahoe 2013 100K miles

Spark plugs recently replaced. and replacing rear drum brakes today with failing(ed) O2 sensors in the future.  I'm planning on doing other preventative and necessary maintenance on it in the near future.  Is there anything I should/need to consider?  Also, how long to shocks typically last?  The ride currently is a little creaky but I'm not bouncing all over the place (yet).  Any particular brand you'd recommend for shocks?  (FYI, I don't race [obviously] or tow anything with this vehicle)

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Texas007

Texas007 195

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That Tahoe probably has struts up front (aka more expensive than shocks). 50 - 60 k is typical mileage range for a shock replacement, so you're probably due.

If you want to be thorough a flush of your brake and coolant systems are also good 100k maintenence items

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Sam Lin

Sam Lin 3550

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10 hours ago, mackavelli said:

Anyone got a recommendation on a mechanic for a 68 Mustang? Need to get it running and don't have the time. In Austin. Just been sitting too long.



No direct recommendation, but a recommendation to call up Petrol Lounge and ask for their recommendation. They're local, keep a ton of very nice cars for wealthy people, and are very well connected with the local motorsports scene.

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Hawndoh

Hawndoh 2386

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Nothing special but I installed a hitch receiver myself yesterday. I’d post a picture but I don’t know a good way without imgur and tapatalk annoys me so I don’t use it. 

So far I’ve only done the receiver itself. Next weekend I’ll tackle all the wiring harness stuff. That will require running a wire all the way to the engine compartment to the battery. 

I may eventually also install a trailer brake controller but as of now the only trailer I’ll potentially be pulling doesn’t have brakes. 

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Hawndoh

Hawndoh 2386

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Not a truck. A Toyota Sienna van. 

Wiring kit attaches behind both taillights and runs behind the trim work. But that just gets a 4 pin connection. I got a 7pin adapter that will then let me hook up either 4 pin or 7 pin. 

 

But for the 7 pin, you have to run your own ground wire, which is easy, and then a power line all the way to the battery. It’s not hard just finicky to find a good route. The last pin is for the trailer brake controller which also requires running wires up to the cabin to wherever the controller gets stashed. 

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Spur08

Spur08 382

Posted
Posted
On 5/6/2018 at 12:53 PM, Jkwellborn said:

Spur, just replace the shocks with a factory type replacement. You changed the fuel filter on it?

I have not.  I can't find the maintenance schedule on the fuel filter.

On 5/6/2018 at 8:56 PM, Texas007 said:

That Tahoe probably has struts up front (aka more expensive than shocks). 50 - 60 k is typical mileage range for a shock replacement, so you're probably due.

If you want to be thorough a flush of your brake and coolant systems are also good 100k maintenence items

The mobile mechanic I've used told me that it does have struts up front.  He pushed up/down on the rear end and said that he doesn't think it needs a change but I'm not sure.  I do trust him as he is quite cheap ($60 for brake job w/ rotors, I buy parts) and knowledgeable but I just think I have a different standard than him.

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dingleberryswitzer

dingleberryswitzer 2724

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 5/7/2018 at 9:16 PM, Hawndoh said:

Not a truck. A Toyota Sienna van. 

Wiring kit attaches behind both taillights and runs behind the trim work. But that just gets a 4 pin connection. I got a 7pin adapter that will then let me hook up either 4 pin or 7 pin. 

 

But for the 7 pin, you have to run your own ground wire, which is easy, and then a power line all the way to the battery. It’s not hard just finicky to find a good route. The last pin is for the trailer brake controller which also requires running wires up to the cabin to wherever the controller gets stashed. 

What are you towing?  Anything with trailer brakes has to be at the upper end of that vans capacity. 

What hitch did you get?  I'm looking at getting one installed to hold a bike rack, but I think there's only one brand that had most of the hitch tucked up underneath the molding.  

Edited by dingleberryswitzer
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Spur08

Spur08 382

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Posted

I need help narrowing down an issue..

2013 Tahoe 100K miles.  Whenever I brake, there is a slight shimmy/vibration of the car. I thought it was the rear brakes, but they were replaced last week and the issue is still occurring.  I did buy new tires about 20K miles (or less) ago and had the car realigned.  Any idea what my issue is? 

 

Note -- I feel the vibration both of the whole vehicle and a little in the wheel.

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Hawndoh

Hawndoh 2386

Posted
Posted (edited)

Popup camper. 

 

Modern campers almost always have brakes, even under 2000 pounds. 

 

The van is rated to 3500. 

The hitch is a Curt class 3. I forget the exact model but you just put your vehicle info in the website and it tells you which one fits. 

I’ve gotten the normal 4 pin standard trailer wiring all done. Had to run the power line all the way to the battery which was the toughest bit. More fiddly and slow than difficult. 

Next weekend I mount the 7 pin RV connector and wire up the adapter. 

I got the ball and ball mount at my local UHaul place. Had to get a mount with quite a bit of rise to it since the receiver sits pretty low under the van. 

Edited by Hawndoh
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NotActuallyALonghorn

NotActuallyALonghorn 4974

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Spur08 said:

I need help narrowing down an issue..

2013 Tahoe 100K miles.  Whenever I brake, there is a slight shimmy/vibration of the car. I thought it was the rear brakes, but they were replaced last week and the issue is still occurring.  I did buy new tires about 20K miles (or less) ago and had the car realigned.  Any idea what my issue is? 

 

Note -- I feel the vibration both of the whole vehicle and a little in the wheel.

Warped rotors maybe?

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Sam Lin

Sam Lin 3550

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Spur08 said:

Front brakes/rotors were changed a year ago.

Edit -- Could it be a jammed up caliper?  How would I diagnose that?

A year is plenty enough time for fronts to warp again. The wrong driving habits can warp a rotor in 5 minutes.

Some basics for rotor warping - make sure the hub face and wheel faces are wire brushed clean whenever you have a wheel off. Make sure lug nuts are torqued evenly in a star pattern. If you have to make a rapid stop, try to stop shorter than normal, and after every 15sec, let the car roll forward a foot. This gives the rotor a chance to cool more evenly. If you emergency panic stop and then hold the brake on for a long stop light, it's entirely possible to warp the rotor from that single stop. If you are unable to roll forward or backward a little, at least set the parking brake and get your feet off the brake pedal. Again, this lets the rotor cool more evenly.

To detect a jammed caliper, use a temp gun or your finger (be damn careful with your finger, components can be really hot), go to a parking lot and do a few gentle stops, then go measure the temp of each rotor. If one is obviously different from the others, you have a caliper or line problem on that corner.

 

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SA-KC_Horn

SA-KC_Horn 1295

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Posted

Thoughts...

I am finally getting my Civic's transmission swapped for a used OEM tranny. 

Is there any recommendations or a checklist to follow to ensure nothing is missed?

I am replacing the torque converter and possibly the rear main seal while the tranny is off. Trying make sure I am not missing seals or gaskets or even filters.

99 Civic stock AT.

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