Home mechanics thread

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

I just replaced the plugs in my 13 Ram, holy shit that sucked

16 plugs $100 from Rock Auto. The passenger side took me 40 minutes and the driver too 2.5 hours
If any one is doing their Ram soon msg me and I'll tell you what not to do

[woohorn 1131]

Any reason to do wires at same time? I think my truck schedules it together, but I figure wires are a waste.

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

Depends, my coil packs looked fine and some research on the ram forums said coil packs are usually still good

[Jkwellborn 7007]

If it was an older type of vehicle, with a distributor, I’d probably change wires every other time for plugs or so. Might even wait until they start missing and change them all.

I changed the wires to the coil packs on my 01 when I changed the plugs the first time but it had over 100k on it. Haven’t done it since.

[Spur08 384]

On 5/14/2018 at 11:29 PM, Sam Lin said:

A year is plenty enough time for fronts to warp again. The wrong driving habits can warp a rotor in 5 minutes.

Some basics for rotor warping - make sure the hub face and wheel faces are wire brushed clean whenever you have a wheel off. Make sure lug nuts are torqued evenly in a star pattern. If you have to make a rapid stop, try to stop shorter than normal, and after every 15sec, let the car roll forward a foot. This gives the rotor a chance to cool more evenly. If you emergency panic stop and then hold the brake on for a long stop light, it's entirely possible to warp the rotor from that single stop. If you are unable to roll forward or backward a little, at least set the parking brake and get your feet off the brake pedal. Again, this lets the rotor cool more evenly.

To detect a jammed caliper, use a temp gun or your finger (be damn careful with your finger, components can be really hot), go to a parking lot and do a few gentle stops, then go measure the temp of each rotor. If one is obviously different from the others, you have a caliper or line problem on that corner.

 

Used a temp gun.  New rear brakes (rotors really) measure around 170*.  Front left 280*, front right 240 or 50*.

 

Edit -- Also, what your go-to place for buying body trim clips?  Wife ran her car into the garage, pulling off the trim piece and breaking the clips in the process.  I called the dealer and the most I could get from him was the first 5 digits on the part # (90467).  I think it's part #2 on this diagram but can't find the clip only.

Edited May 22, 2018 by Spur08

[Gil Bang 26178]

try rock auto?

[Anton Chigurh 3334]

Lowe’s has stuff like that.

[Sam Lin 3591]

I'm not a fan of random auto parts store clips, generally shitty China quality while an OEM one has gone through a ton of qualifications and testing.

 

This photo seems to have the part numbers for items 2 and 3. I clicked the second photo and snipped it from here (if the link works):

https://toyotapartsestore.com/2017-toyota-highlander-le-gas_3.5_v_6-transaxle_automatic_3-body_hardware-exterior_trim-wheel_opng_mldg_750860E010-item/

[Thatguy 9295]

   Uh....I converted the brakes on my 1990 mustang coupe to sn95. However, You have to replace the master cylinder and brake booster to the bigger sn95 version. If anyone have ever done this job it absolutely sucks. The bolts for the booster are a nightmare to get to. Had to walk away from it for a bit. lol

[Archer 474]

I’ve got changing the diff and transfer case fluids and new shocks and springs for the Jeep on my to do list. I had planned on doing it this week but this 100* heat changed my mind. 

[fattyflattie 4640]

On 4/22/2018 at 11:13 PM, ROFL BOX said:

Here's my current "YOU LIE!" YouTube vidja:

 

The problem with our '07 Tahoe isn't that the hose connecting part broke, it's the portion that connects to the silver tube.

I have a hose fitting tool (the white "C" shaped fitting thingies) but can't get it to release from the plastic part.

To top it off, there is also a firewall connecting part & that also seems just as impossible to reach in & work on, but for now I'd be happy to get the silver tube (top one) disconnected from the quick connect.

I got the pleasure of replacing this in an Academy parking lot in dress clothes once.  I will not soon forget it. 

[Spur08 384]

Changed my downstream O2 sensors today but I'm having trouble accessing the 2 upstream sensors. Any tips or tricks to get there? '13 tahoe

[Jkwellborn 7007]

Changed my downstream O2 sensors today but I'm having trouble accessing the 2 upstream sensors. Any tips or tricks to get there? '13 tahoe

Do you have to take the tire off on those and come in through the fender well? I think some shit is a little easier like that.

[elfenix 34661]

any tips for removing old spark plugs?  things are in there pretty good.  

[AUinHsv 583]

On 5/16/2018 at 11:20 AM, woohorn said:

Any reason to do wires at same time? I think my truck schedules it together, but I figure wires are a waste.

On my 01 4Runner I did the wires every 50K - just cause.  I wasn't planning on it the first time but got sloppy and broke a wire so I just started doing them. About to do plugs on my Accord at 85K for first time.

[AUinHsv 583]

On 5/31/2018 at 11:43 AM, Archer said:

I’ve got changing the diff and transfer case fluids and new shocks and springs for the Jeep on my to do list. I had planned on doing it this week but this 100* heat changed my mind. 

Hopefully Jeep got their act together on the rear diff. My Dad's 1999 Grand Cherokee did not have a drain plug - had to remove the rear cover just to change it. Not the worst PITA but a totally avoidable one if they added drain and fill plugs.

[Jkwellborn 7007]

any tips for removing old spark plugs?  things are in there pretty good.  

Do you have a 1/4” drive impact?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

7 hours ago, elfenix said:

any tips for removing old spark plugs?  things are in there pretty good.  

A drop or two of PB blaster at each port, and let it sit a while.

[elfenix 34661]

4 hours ago, Jkwellborn said:

Do you have a 1/4” drive impact?

nope, a 1/2" 300 ft lb, which i assume is much too much for this.  

 

2 hours ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

A drop or two of PB blaster at each port, and let it sit a while.

overnight?

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4998]

As long as it takes.

[Jkwellborn 7007]

overnight?

Perfect excuse to buy another one.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

27 minutes ago, elfenix said:

nope, a 1/2" 300 ft lb, which i assume is much too much for this.  

 

overnight?

Depends, 20 minutes usually will do the trick. You wanna let it soak down into the threads a bit. You don't wanna bust one off in the port. Biiiiig trouble.  I'd be hesitant to put an impact wrench on one unless I was really good with that tool.  They're a bitch to get too usually, and I'd be surprised if you could get an impact wrench on one towards the firewall.

Edited July 18, 2018 by Onboard 2.0

[elfenix 34661]

3 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Depends, 20 minutes usually will do the trick. You wanna let it soak down into the threads a bit. You don't wanna bust one off in the port. Biiiiig trouble.  I'd be hesitant to put an impact wrench on one unless I was really good with that tool.  They're a bitch to get too usually, and I'd be surprised if you could get an impact wrench on one towards the firewall.

it's a transverse mounted inline 4 (mazda3), getting to the plugs isn't an issue at all.   they've just been in there a good long while.

[Spur08 384]

I had to get the flatter O2 socket yo get the upstream sensors but it's all done.

Changed my downstream O2 sensors today but I'm having trouble accessing the 2 upstream sensors. Any tips or tricks to get there? '13 tahoe

[Incredulity 11861]

On 7/18/2018 at 8:59 AM, elfenix said:

it's a transverse mounted inline 4 (mazda3), getting to the plugs isn't an issue at all.   they've just been in there a good long while.

Be sure to throw some anti-seize on the new ones.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

22 minutes ago, Incredulity said:

Be sure to throw some anti-seize on the new ones.

Ummmmm, that goes in the raid-ee-a-tor

[Incredulity 11861]

[Mother mopar 3379]

If your doing that throw some dialectic grease in the boots as well. That will keep those from seizing on the plug.

 

Ps don't get any grease or anti seize on the tip of the plug. Cue the tip dick jokes

 

[Incredulity 11861]

I do.

[Spur08 384]

Didn't mean to create a duplicate thread -- moving my post here with a reply.

ORIGINAL POST 

Anyways, one of the few things I can easily do on my car is change the oil and I have been doing so for quite some time.  I've always used Mobil1 (purchased at Costco) and Purolator filters when changing the oil on my 2013 Tahoe.  I've just recently cross 100K miles.  At what point should I think about transitioning to a different type of oil (high mileage or any other type)?  Any need to think about different filters?

 

@52-80I don't mean to be a smart ass, but what's the point of a lab analysis of the oil?  Don't get me wrong, information/data is good, great, grand but how do I figure out what to do with the information they will give me?

[Anton Chigurh 3334]

Didn't mean to create a duplicate thread -- moving my post here with a reply.
ORIGINAL POST 
Anyways, one of the few things I can easily do on my car is change the oil and I have been doing so for quite some time.  I've always used Mobil1 (purchased at Costco) and Purolator filters when changing the oil on my 2013 Tahoe.  I've just recently cross 100K miles.  At what point should I think about transitioning to a different type of oil (high mileage or any other type)?  Any need to think about different filters?
 
[mention=92]52-80[/mention]I don't mean to be a smart ass, but what's the point of a lab analysis of the oil?  Don't get me wrong, information/data is good, great, grand but how do I figure out what to do with the information they will give me?

So you know if your engine is wearing. They will tell you what metals are in the oil and if they come from rings or bearings, etc. they can also see if there are any coolant traces. They will also write a short paragraph about it. I’ve had two done on mine so far. I am only at 93k. I wouldn’t change to high mileage unless you’re already losing oil.

I can show you mine here in a minute.

[Anton Chigurh 3334]

Here you go. I did about 7,000mi, did a report, then went about 10K (didn’t mean to go this high but I went on a long road trip and was busy), then 8,000 for this report.

[torre 1293]

55 minutes ago, Spur08 said:

 

 

Anyways, one of the few things I can easily do on my car is change the oil and I have been doing so for quite some time.  I've always used Mobil1 (purchased at Costco) and Purolator filters when changing the oil on my 2013 Tahoe.  I've just recently cross 100K miles.  At what point should I think about transitioning to a different type of oil (high mileage or any other type)?  Any need to think about different filters?

 

 

Mobil 1 has a high mileage version.    With the improvement in oil, may just be marketing.   If Costco does not have,  Walmart does.

I prefer the AC Delco (GM) oil filter. 

[Jkwellborn 7007]

I should do that on my daily. It’s got about 265,000 on it and uses oil. They’d probably laugh when they got it.

[iamthepush 72]

?
 
[mention=92]52-80[/mention]I don't mean to be a smart ass, but what's the point of a lab analysis of the oil?  Don't get me wrong, information/data is good, great, grand but how do I figure out what to do with the information they will give me?

If it comes back anything other than normal you can give yourself anxiety

[Sam Lin 3591]

Oil analysis can give you early warning of an engine issue, especially if you have an engine with some form of known failure like weak rod bearings or head gasket. For this use you need to do it regularly.

It can also validate some modifications like "high-flow" air filters, usually by showing that they indeed are worse at filtration. For this use you just need a baseline before and after the mod.

Finally, and for most people, oil analysis is the only, and best way, to maximize your oil change intervals while being confident you are not risking accelerated engine wear. Some engine designs simply don't load the oil much, and can safely run 15-20k oil change intervals. Other designs, or very worn engines, simply can't make it past 5k. That's potentially 3x the cost spent on oil changes. For this use you need to do analysis at a few changes and adjust the intervals based on the feedback from each analysis, until you get 2 analyses in a row that confirm a "good" interval. Then do a spot analysis every 30k miles or so to see when the engine starts to degrade, so you can start reducing your intervals.

[NateHitch 1282]

So my 2011 Tacoma is making the power steering whine sound but fluid level is fine, no leaks.  Is it possible it's the power steering pump itself that's just going bad?  Steering feels just fine, no issues but the sound is unmistakable.

[Jkwellborn 7007]

I’ve heard plenty of them whine for a long time before they take a shit. Fords do it damn near from the factory.

[JSB 677]

Just took my wife's QX80 in for a 60,000 mile service.  The margins they must pull down in the service department because women and/or dumb fucks just say "go ahead and fix it all" must be astronomical.  They wanted $165 to change the cabin filter, $80 for the air filter and $75 for the fucking wiper blades.  The wiper blades are still fine, and I did both filters in 20 minutes for less than $50 in parts.  If I can learn to do transmission, brake and transfer case fluid changes, I can damn near cut them out other than things I don't want to spend the money on tools for/can't do in my garage.  

[Spur08 384]

I've started to notice a gurgling or sloshing sound under the front passenger dashboard whenever I start/stop kind of quickly. Any idea what this could be?

[Mother mopar 3379]

Blinker fluid reservoir.

Serious note, make and model of vehicle?

[AUinHsv 583]

Possibly clogged AC condensate line - look at a model specific forum for more info.  And if that is what it is - unclog it NOW. Don't ask me how I know this but on 90's era Jeeps the drain tube falls off if you don't add a clamp. Drive for four hours and have literally an inch of water in passenger floor. Jeep dealer in Florida knew instantly what it was. Hey Einstein - maybe tell Jeep to add the clamp at the factory if you see this often enough. Had to pull all the capret and seats when I got back home.

[Leeroy Jenkins 2475]

2 hours ago, Spur08 said:

I've started to notice a gurgling or sloshing sound under the front passenger dashboard whenever I start/stop kind of quickly. Any idea what this could be?

What kind of vehicle?  Could be the heater core?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

11 minutes ago, Leeroy Jenkins said:

What kind of vehicle?  Could be the heater core?

This.  I'm hearing that same sound, and my heat system isn't functioning correctly.  I've been wondering if it wasn't that. I'm very very afraid to find out for sure.

[Spur08 384]

What kind of vehicle?  Could be the heater core?

'13 Tahoe. Has about 110k miles

This.  I'm hearing that same sound, and my heat system isn't functioning correctly.  I've been wondering if it wasn't that. I'm very very afraid to find out for sure.

My heater is strong and still working. Is that an expensive problem?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

15 minutes ago, Spur08 said:

'13 Tahoe. Has about 110k milesMy heater is strong and still working. Is that an expensive problem?

'06 Tahoe here, and yeah it is expensive because it's behind your dash board, and anything behind a dash board is a labor intensive nightmare.

I've changed heater cores in 60's Mustangs, and those dashes are easy to get up and behind, and that was a multi hour bitch of a fix.

[Leeroy Jenkins 2475]

'06 Tahoe here, and yeah it is expensive because it's behind your dash board, and anything behind a dash board is a labor intensive nightmare.
I've changed heater cores in 60's Mustangs, and those dashes are easy to get up and behind, and that was a multi hour bitch of a fix.

Could also be your thermostat going bad that shuts off flow to the heater core. We just had that happen to one my fire departments 06 Suburban and we actually had it over heat and bust a fitting due to the pressure.

One that was fixed the heat worked fine.

[Anton Chigurh 3334]

Are you certain it’s in the floorboard? It could be in the passenger door. There should be a drain on it. It may be clogged. Check that.

[Spur08 384]

The sound doesnt come from the floorboard, it's under the dash. Could it be air in the line?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

1 hour ago, Leeroy Jenkins said:

 

Could also be your thermostat going bad that shuts off flow to the heater core. We just had that happen to one my fire departments 06 Suburban and we actually had it over heat and bust a fitting due to the pressure.

One that was fixed the heat worked fine.

 

Thanks, that sounds like it could be it. I have to crank the heat way up to get hot temps.