The all encompassing RV thread

[utee94 15722]

1 minute ago, fattyflattie said:

I guess it might but never seemed like it. I quit paying attention when I installed a disconnect, haven’t had any battery issues since. I used to just throw the batts on a 2a slow charge for a few hours and back in business. 

I'd be shocked if it doesn't charge the battery whilst on shore power, that's integrated into the RV converter's circuitry.  But it sounds like you don't really notice because you don't need it, with the disconnect.

 

[fattyflattie 4633]

1 minute ago, utee94 said:

I'd be shocked if it doesn't charge the battery whilst on shore power, that's integrated into the RV converter's circuitry.  But it sounds like you don't really notice because you don't need it, with the disconnect.

 

Before, any time I’d need it, it would be dead. New battery, something would just draw it down. So I said fuck it, put on a disconnect, and bought two bigger batts. I only use it to power the jack, if we’re being honest. I can’t boondock with 4 spoiled, suburban females.  

[davidg 4015]

You can use the adapter and an extension cord from a 15a 120V outlet to charge the battery no problem.    Most 50A rv converters (ac to dc power supply) take about 5-7A of 120VAC.  You can probably run the fridge too off of a 15A outlet. If you have a 20A circuit, you could probably run an air conditioning unit and the convertor at the same time.  The chart below is in my rv owners manual and gives some idea of typical loads.  You can use this to see what all you can run off a regular extension cord.
 

 

[CoachTex 2612]

28 minutes ago, utee94 said:

Really?  Standard RV wiring should charge a travel trailer or 5th wheel RV's "house battery" through the RV's converter whilst plugged into shore power, that's been standard since the 60s at least   It won't charge the starter battery on a motorhome/drivable RV, because that's a separate system altogether.

You should be able to plug it into your home's outlets using a 30A-20A adapter like the one Hawndoh posted.  For just charging batteries or running the RV fridge, it won't draw enough current to endanger the power cord or house circuitry.

If you're trying to run the A/C, then you'd definitely want to use a heavy gauge extension cord and keep an eye on all of the connections.  Arcing can happen where the connecters meet, if they're not adequate for the power being drawn through them.

 

@davidg

I have an adapter similar to the one below. Would a 14 gauge cord work to charge the battery only?  Not going to run anything while plugged in. Second question, I should turn the main breaker in the RV to the on position so shore power reaches the battery correct? 

Edited May 20, 2022 by CoachTex

[utee94 15722]

8 hours ago, davidg said:

You can use the adapter and an extension cord from a 15a 120V outlet to charge the battery no problem.    Most 50A rv converters (ac to dc power supply) take about 5-7A of 120VAC.  You can probably run the fridge too off of a 15A outlet. If you have a 20A circuit, you could probably run an air conditioning unit and the convertor at the same time.  The chart below is in my rv owners manual and gives some idea of typical loads.  You can use this to see what all you can run off a regular extension cord.
 

 

You can definitely run the RV's A/C off the 20A house circuit, I do it all the time when prepping/loading the RV at the house.  You just need to be careful and make sure you're using a heavy gauge extension cord, and make sure all the connections are really tight, otherwise they like to arc.  I have a full 30A RV-connector-style extension cord that I run all the way into the wall adapter at the house, like this:

 

8 hours ago, CoachTex said:

@davidg

I have an adapter similar to the one below. Would a 14 gauge cord work to charge the battery only?  Not going to run anything while plugged in. Second question, I should turn the main breaker in the RV to the on position so shore power reaches the battery correct? 

14G is fine for charging the battery. You'd want to go heavier gauge for running the A/C.  And yes turn the breaker on to engage the RV's electrical system.

Also, the dogbone pictured above is the opposite of what you need.  That would be used for plugging into an RV-style 30A outlet, like you see at a campsite, and convering it to a standard 15-20A 120AC style house cord.  What you need is an adapter with 15A male and 30A female, so your standard RV male-end power cord can plug into it.

 

 

 

 

Edited May 20, 2022 by utee94

[davidg 4015]

^^^^^^. What he said. You can get one of those adapters at Walmart.

Plug an extension cord into a household 120v outlet, plug that adapter into the extension cord, then plug your regular rv power cord into the adapter.

Forego the regular extension cord if your trailer power cord will reach by itself.


And yes, turn on main rv breaker to allow AC power. Turn off battery isolation switch to allow battery to be charged too (if you have one)

[capnamerca 501]

Pulling the rig out of storage and to my in-laws place where they have full hookups. Going to give her a full once-over - aside from the obvious things like water lines/pressure, checking lights / switches, battery charge, smoke alarms, tire and trailer integrity, general shell integrity, the pumps, and the water heater, what other items are usually on your pre-season checklist?

[fattyflattie 4633]

This is the way ive done it at house. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/AOWEITOUR-Locking-Adapter-SS2-50R-Electrical/dp/B09LH3Q15J/ref=asc_df_B09LH3Q15J/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563823049430&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17933129959945395890&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007554&hvtargid=pla-1830903039312&psc=1

then into a heavier 12g extension cord. Able to run all the slides out, 1 AC, etc. and apparently charge the battery  

[davidg 4015]

Pulling the rig out of storage and to my in-laws place where they have full hookups. Going to give her a full once-over - aside from the obvious things like water lines/pressure, checking lights / switches, battery charge, smoke alarms, tire and trailer integrity, general shell integrity, the pumps, and the water heater, what other items are usually on your pre-season checklist?

Flush and sanitize your water system. Drain and flush the water heater (and inspect/replace the anode if it has one)

Inspect all the tires, air them up to recommended pressure (or close to max. I run my trailer tires 5lbs less than max cold.). Check the spare too.

Inspect the roof tears/holes and for cracks in the sealant. Re-seal as necessary.

Inspect/re-pack the wheel bearings if it has set up a while or a lot of miles since last done. Check/adjust trailer brakes while the wheels are off. Torque the wheel lugnuts to mfr spec. Re-torque after 100-200 miles. Important if you have aliminum wheel.

Inspect the suspension for cracks, bent parts or missing bolts.

Check battery water levels/top off with distilled water.

[capnamerca 501]

6 minutes ago, davidg said:

Flush and sanitize your water system. Drain and flush the water heater (and inspect/replace the anode if it has one)

Inspect all the tires, air them up to recommended pressure (or close to max. I run my trailer tires 5lbs less than max cold.). Check the spare too.

Inspect the roof tears/holes and for cracks in the sealant. Re-seal as necessary.

Inspect/re-pack the wheel bearings if it has set up a while or a lot of miles since last done. Check/adjust trailer brakes while the wheels are off. Torque the wheel lugnuts to mfr spec. Re-torque after 100-200 miles. Important if you have aliminum wheel.

Inspect the suspension for cracks, bent parts or missing bolts.

Check battery water levels/top off with distilled water.

Great stuff. 

Had a full re-seal late last year so I'm confident there. 

Sanitize water system - love that.

tire check - great call. 

[davidg 4015]

Hope everyone is getting out somewhere this weekend

 

 

[horn4life 3749]

6 minutes ago, davidg said:

Hope everyone is getting out somewhere this weekend

 

 

I would rather shoot myself in the head than go to the beach or river on Memorial day weekend.  But you guys have fun and stay safe on the roads!

[CoachTex 2612]

Made a run to Pedernales falls. Pretty bad ass.

The dog was worn out.

[Sbbruin 21588]

RV circa 1922.  Thing is sweet.

[utee94 15722]

2 hours ago, Sbbruin said:

RV circa 1922.  Thing is sweet.

That's not from 1922.  That's former OU president David Boren's brand-new home!

 

[JMFP 1113]

Out on the farm we have an old 1966 Ford F600 with a 30 foot flat bed on it we used to haul hay back when I was in high school... Wife suggested one time that we restore it and turn it into some kind of super-C. Would be cool but cheaper I think to buy a brand new one (and I can't afford either). 

[utee94 15722]

Yeah the idea of restoring vintage RVs is great and all, but if you're paying someone else to do the work, new could very well  be cheaper.

I restored my own vintage Airstream, and got it to what I'd consider about 85% done.  Replaced most systems with new, replaced the floor, had a friend help me cut out and replace about half the steel frame, rebuilt most of the interior.  I bought it for $3,200 and by the time I was done had about $10,000 into it.  An Airstream buddy of mine had a shop do roughly the same amount of work to his near-identical trailer and put $60,000 into it.  To finish it out completely he's have had spent $80K or more.

 

[horn4life 3749]

3 hours ago, JMFP said:

Out on the farm we have an old 1966 Ford F600 with a 30 foot flat bed on it we used to haul hay back when I was in high school... Wife suggested one time that we restore it and turn it into some kind of super-C. Would be cool but cheaper I think to buy a brand new one (and I can't afford either). 

Honestly.  If I really wanted to hit the road full time, I think the Super C's are the bomb.  Big lift for off road clearance, and the potential for a big enough foot print, to truly be comfortable.  Then pull a nice 4x4 behind it.   IF I were going to build from scratch I would be looking at aluminum studs to frame it out and save al the weight I could.  I guess you could do it like a boat and fiberglass the exterior?

3 hours ago, utee94 said:

Yeah the idea of restoring vintage RVs is great and all, but if you're paying someone else to do the work, new could very well  be cheaper.

I restored my own vintage Airstream, and got it to what I'd consider about 85% done.  Replaced most systems with new, replaced the floor, had a friend help me cut out and replace about half the steel frame, rebuilt most of the interior.  I bought it for $3,200 and by the time I was done had about $10,000 into it.  An Airstream buddy of mine had a shop do roughly the same amount of work to his near-identical trailer and put $60,000 into it.  To finish it out completely he's have had spent $80K or more.

 

I have thought about doing this.  Simply as folks geek so hard for the Airstreams.  I have a buddy with a large warehouse that is a clutter magnet, and I am trying to get him to let me help him, put up some pallet racking and get shit off the floor.  THEN and airstream would fit inside and I would have a clean dry place to work on one all winter.  I guess the real money is finding the rig, learning the tricks, then sell it and do it again.

Hmmm.... I wondered if you could use some of the Real Estate investing advantages like a 1031 exchange to avoid capital gains, and it looks like you can as long as you go RV for RV.  Seems like you have to rent it out though to use the exchange.  Anyhow, Once you have done one Airstream probably easy to do a second one.  Are you ready for you Airstream Rental Fleet? 😉

[Incredulity 11197]

46 minutes ago, horn4life said:

Honestly.  If I really wanted to hit the road full time, I think the Super C's are the bomb.  Big lift for off road clearance, and the potential for a big enough foot print, to truly be comfortable.  Then pull a nice 4x4 behind it.   IF I were going to build from scratch I would be looking at aluminum studs to frame it out and save al the weight I could.  I guess you could do it like a boat and fiberglass the exterior?

I have thought about doing this.  Simply as folks geek so hard for the Airstreams.  I have a buddy with a large warehouse that is a clutter magnet, and I am trying to get him to let me help him, put up some pallet racking and get shit off the floor.  THEN and airstream would fit inside and I would have a clean dry place to work on one all winter.  I guess the real money is finding the rig, learning the tricks, then sell it and do it again.

Hmmm.... I wondered if you could use some of the Real Estate investing advantages like a 1031 exchange to avoid capital gains, and it looks like you can as long as you go RV for RV.  Seems like you have to rent it out though to use the exchange.  Anyhow, Once you have done one Airstream probably easy to do a second one.  Are you ready for you Airstream Rental Fleet? 😉

Buy and sell would be so much less headache then renting.

We rented a class A for a week each summer for about 10 years in a row.  We would commonly have the same unit for 3ish years.  They got beat to shit.

Would have problems nearly every year with batteries, leveling system, automatic door step, water heater......

 

Solved my desire to ever own one.  

[JMFP 1113]

1 hour ago, horn4life said:

Honestly.  If I really wanted to hit the road full time, I think the Super C's are the bomb.  Big lift for off road clearance, and the potential for a big enough foot print, to truly be comfortable.  Then pull a nice 4x4 behind it.   IF I were going to build from scratch I would be looking at aluminum studs to frame it out and save al the weight I could.  I guess you could do it like a boat and fiberglass the exterior?

...

Super C is what I'm eyeing next when the kids are done camping with us. My oldest is almost 17 and she's pretty much done now, she and her 13 year old sister don't do well together in small spaces... The youngest is 6 so we still have at least 8 or 10 years with her still wanting go most trips I figure. But yeah, a super C towing a 1/2 ton pickup with my motorcycle and 2 kayaks in the bed is my dream right now... 

 

[utee94 15722]

As soon as the kids are done camping with us and off to college, we've considered selling the house, and going to a Class A and towing the Jeep.

Alternatively I've also considered buying a vintage Airstream Bambi and completely restoring it.  It's a lot less work than my 26' Overlander was, should be a piece of cake!

 

 

[JMFP 1113]

11 hours ago, utee94 said:

As soon as the kids are done camping with us and off to college, we've considered selling the house, and going to a Class A and towing the Jeep.

Alternatively I've also considered buying a vintage Airstream Bambi and completely restoring it.  It's a lot less work than my 26' Overlander was, should be a piece of cake!

 

 

We've kind of talked about the same thing when I retire (but that still seems a lifetime away)... Selling everything here and finding a little piece of land on a lake or river down south somewhere where we can build a modest house and a big shop. Spend the winters there and then chase 70 degrees April-October.

[davidg 4015]

I was getting some stuff out of our boat storage last week before we went camping over the weekend and a guy across the way had his storage open and was loading stuff in a Unimog with a built camper on the back.  Just briefly got to look at it but was pretty cool.  Older guy and said he traveled all over the US backcountry with it.   I hope to catch him out there again some time at get a better tour.

[StruggleBus 3922]

On 5/19/2022 at 10:12 PM, fattyflattie said:

I can’t boondock with 4 spoiled, suburban females.  

[CoachTex 2612]

Goose Island state park  

Happy 4th of July you filthy animals. 

[davidg 4015]

Spent 6 days over last weekend camping at Inks Lake State Park.  Had a real nice site right on the lake with tons of space and large oak trees.  Carried the boat and kayaks as usual and had a good time.  Paddled back up into Devils waterhole a few times and watched the kids jump off the rocks.  Caught a few bass but mostly just enjoyed being on the water.  Lots of hydrilla and moss in the no wake area by the park but the access by our campsite had been used enough that it was pretty much sand bottom.

We went down the road one morning to Longhorn Cavern and took the tour through cave which was a good break from the lake for a while.

It had been about 13 or 14 years since the last time we had camped here and this trip reminded us we really need to get it into a better rotation of spots.

 

 

 

 

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

Has anyone had a leak in their slide? I had a hole / tear in the roof of my rear bunk slide right at rubber seal
The roof decking has a rotted spot so that needs replaced too. 
No idea how hard this is to DYI or how much it cost to have some one else do it.  

[fattyflattie 4633]

Has anyone had a leak in their slide? I had a hole / tear in the roof of my rear bunk slide right at rubber seal
The roof decking has a rotted spot so that needs replaced too. 
No idea how hard this is to DYI or how much it cost to have some one else do it.  

I had to do this earlier this year, because I would get a “bubble” in the area where the front clip meets the roof when towing. Like the size of a basketball. It sucked. I imagine it would be expensive to have someone else do the repair. I spent about $300 in materials, +/- $50. It sucked, but fixed the issue before it became a real problem. I noticed the other day I had a semi soft spot near the skylight, so will be digging into that next I guess. Sucks because the camper has been perfect other than that.









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[davidg 4015]

RV roofs suck.  All of them.  Sorry you are having leaks.   You could undo the edge areas and peel back the roof like flatty did and inspect to see whats going on if you haven't already.   If you have to replace wood then you'll need some carpentry skills.    For my trailer slide, it has a TPO roof similar to the trailer top with a strip of eternabond tape all the way around next the the wall part of the slide.   I would remove all of that tape and take a look under there and see if there was a way for me to splice in a new piece of wood and then glue the roof material down and put tape and/or lap sealant over the seam.

FF - Did you use an adhesive to glue the roof material back down?  It seems like that isn't being done very well on a lot of trailers if at all.  Big discussions about it on my trailer brand FB groups and owners forum about roof bubbles and then the whole part of the roof tearing back once all of the front roof material pulls back from the screws. 

I've seen a bunch of small bubble repairs that ended with using 4" or 6" Eternabond tape over the whole front seem area fastening the metal clamp bar that covers that front/roof joint.  Then they using 3 or 4" eternabond tape down the whole gutter edge seam.    Seems to work ok but if you get the whole roof flapping up, just go with the Rv Armor roof system or the other similar one.

[horn4life 3749]

How you mofo's did not jinx me.  Was talking to the wife that I had not been out to check on the trailer since the rain finally came.  Top is dirty as shit being stored outside and needs a good once over before I head to Port A for October.  Finally got a new front decal to replace the cracked one which is down to basically glue remains making the front look oh so pretty.  But fingers crossed, hope when I go back out I am not finding any roof failure after finally getting some rain up here in Austin.

But cool to see what it looks like peeled back... and hope seeing that up close is not in my immediate future...

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

I’ve got it patched for the moment
Put new foam insulation and a new ceiling
But I want to get it fixed right


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[fattyflattie 4633]

1 hour ago, davidg said:

FF - Did you use an adhesive to glue the roof material back down?  It seems like that isn't being done very well on a lot of trailers if at all.  Big discussions about it on my trailer brand FB groups and owners forum about roof bubbles and then the whole part of the roof tearing back once all of the front roof material pulls back from the screws. 

Yes, Dicor 80 A/B or something like that. I’ll confirm when I get home. Gallon was something like $80, and I used maybe a pint.   The roof appeared to be still very well glued, it took 70mph wind being forced into it to make it “balloon”.  The roof material was very hard to pull back, hard af on your fingers/hands as you’re trying to do a controlled but assertive pull, and that’s why in some of those pics I’m out in the May sun. That helped.  I got to where I’d just grip it, and start leaning back with my body weight and let it slowly peel back a few inches at a time.
 

I think the wind comes from the bottom of the front clip/facia. My understanding is some better trailers still do (and all used to) have a solid connection of the front clip/facia to the frame. Mine doesn’t. There’s like a 6” gap of just nothing there.  I think the wind is entering there, channeling up the front, and entering the roof. That bar that holds the front of roof/facia down was in great condition.  The lap sealant was good, the whole 9.  But as soon as I’d get on the highway, 2 huge bubbles would appear.  
 

The issue at the skylight looks to be a tiny hole I just didn’t see. Don’t know when or where it came from but almost feels like a screw backed out and caused it. I just saw it the other night, felt the spongey area (abou 6”x6”), and began coming to realization I’d have to do this process again. OR, buy a nice cover and attack it after this deer season.  

This guy has nearly exact same camper as I do, and had same issue.  But there’s a guy who repairs them for a living on YouTube (second linked vid) and he said he’s been seeing it like crazy last few years, and think it’s the lack of attachment at frame  

 

 

 

 

[Incredulity 11197]

It's a universal truth that RV roofs will eventually leak.  There is no sealant or roofing system that can withstand the forces exerted by dragging the thing down the highway at 75 mph for 5 hrs repeatedly.

 

[JMFP 1113]

Mine's back at the dealer for the third time to fix a leak in the bedroom slide. Hopefully they get it right this time. 

[Chewbacca 7625]

Anyone have experience with Airstreams?  We are going to remodel our mountain house starting next summer and I'm not going to stay away from the mountains for 12-14 months, so I'm looking at alternatives during construction.  One option is to rent a house, but long term rentals are hard to find and this will cost 3-5k/month.  The other option is to buy an Airstream and park it in the driveway (we have a U-shaped drive, so there will be access for workers and materials) and then sell it when construction is finished.  Can you get one warm enough to use in the winter, or is that a no-go?  We get really cold winters (think 20-40 below zero), so I'm thinking that the trailer probably isn't an option for winter, but interested in feedback.  I could also do a hybrid Airstream/house rental if I have to.  

[JMFP 1113]

4 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

Anyone have experience with Airstreams?  We are going to remodel our mountain house starting next summer and I'm not going to stay away from the mountains for 12-14 months, so I'm looking at alternatives during construction.  One option is to rent a house, but long term rentals are hard to find and this will cost 3-5k/month.  The other option is to buy an Airstream and park it in the driveway (we have a U-shaped drive, so there will be access for workers and materials) and then sell it when construction is finished.  Can you get one warm enough to use in the winter, or is that a no-go?  We get really cold winters (think 20-40 below zero), so I'm thinking that the trailer probably isn't an option for winter, but interested in feedback.  I could also do a hybrid Airstream/house rental if I have to.  

Airstreams are built well but I don't know if they are really four season capable, there are other brands with four season models that are better insulated. You'd probably want to put a skirt around it if it's going to be parked there for a while and maybe add some insulation like reflectix on the windows. Also you need to consider your hook ups. Water and electric wouldn't be that big of deal, you'd need heated hoses and at least a 30 amp circuit brought out. Is there a sewer line accessible nearby? A sewer cleanout already near your driveway would be ideal... And probably a large propane tank set nearby because you will go through a decent amount trying to keep it warm. 

 

[Chewbacca 7625]

3 minutes ago, JMFP said:

Airstreams are built well but I don't know if they are really four season capable, there are other brands with four season models that are better insulated. You'd probably want to put a skirt around it if it's going to be parked there for a while and maybe add some insulation like reflectix on the windows. Also you need to consider your hook ups. Water and electric wouldn't be that big of deal, you'd need heated hoses and at least a 30 amp circuit brought out. Is there a sewer line accessible nearby? A sewer cleanout already near your driveway would be ideal... And probably a large propane tank set nearby because you will go through a decent amount trying to keep it warm. 

 

Didn't even think about sewer cleanout.  Unfortunately our septic tank is on a part of the property that is inaccessible to an RV.  Furk.  Might have to just go the summer-only route and find somewhere nearby I can dump the sewer. 

[JMFP 1113]

53 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Didn't even think about sewer cleanout.  Unfortunately our septic tank is on a part of the property that is inaccessible to an RV.  Furk.  Might have to just go the summer-only route and find somewhere nearby I can dump the sewer. 

[fattyflattie 4633]

1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

Didn't even think about sewer cleanout.  Unfortunately our septic tank is on a part of the property that is inaccessible to an RV.  Furk.  Might have to just go the summer-only route and find somewhere nearby I can dump the sewer. 

Get one of those 30 gallon totes. Easy peasy. I do it at the ranch as I can’t get close enough to a clean out. 

[JMFP 1113]

1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

Didn't even think about sewer cleanout.  Unfortunately our septic tank is on a part of the property that is inaccessible to an RV.  Furk.  Might have to just go the summer-only route and find somewhere nearby I can dump the sewer. 

After a couple rum and cokes and trying try to be as eloquent as possible -  Really to be honest, I don't think buying an RV in lieu of other arrangements is the best way to save money. They are really meant for recreation and to stay in one and be honestly comfortable you have to really want to be there. My wife really loves taking our camper out and I like the trips because it's like having the lake cabin I can't afford and the family time aspect with my kids before they grow up.... Yes we've used our trailer a bunch instead of using hotels but we are not anywhere close justifying the cost of the camper vs renting something. 

Anyway, if it were me - and I had the means (or credit) - as a business decision - I'd buy another property instead of a camper. Then when your place is done you'd probably get a better return. I'd just call it an investment property and put the >$80K you'd spend on the airstream down and then VRBO it or sell it next year. 

 

TLDR: Buying a camper to save money is a bad idea (drunk me)

 

[horn4life 3749]

51 minutes ago, JMFP said:

TLDR: Buying a camper to save money is a GREAT idea (drunk me)

 

FIFY 😉

 

[Chewbacca 7625]

After a couple rum and cokes and trying try to be as eloquent as possible -  Really to be honest, I don't think buying an RV in lieu of other arrangements is the best way to save money. They are really meant for recreation and to stay in one and be honestly comfortable you have to really want to be there. My wife really loves taking our camper out and I like the trips because it's like having the lake cabin I can't afford and the family time aspect with my kids before they grow up.... Yes we've used our trailer a bunch instead of using hotels but we are not anywhere close justifying the cost of the camper vs renting something. 
Anyway, if it were me - and I had the means (or credit) - as a business decision - I'd buy another property instead of a camper. Then when your place is done you'd probably get a better return. I'd just call it an investment property and put the >$80K you'd spend on the airstream down and then VRBO it or sell it next year. 
 
TLDR: Buying a camper to save money is a bad idea (drunk me)
 

You haven't priced out mountain real estate recently, have you?

[horn4life 3749]

I will say this my little Coachmen Freedom Express kicked ass during the snowpocolypse.  I bought it specifically because of the Aluminum Frame, adzel siding, and supposed winterization.  It was very comfortable, and we did not need to layer up to stay warm.   It has a sealed bottom, and I never had to do a black water dump.  The Azdel apparently has a higher R factor and the rig has been comfortable from 107 to 26 degrees, even though a lightweight towable.  

If I were going to park all winter I would probably do some sort of insulated skirt around the bottom.  I think the main thing is simply to not let the pipes freeze, especially if you might be gone for extended periods.  If you had a big ass propane tank and enough electric to run the fan for the heater, you could make it all winter with unfrozen pipes.

I doubt an Airstream is gonna be winterized enough for a real winter, but I could be wrong. And a nearby VRBO is probably a better option unless you are spending. lot of time on the property during the build (which you should be, but that's another thread).  

[fattyflattie 4633]

I’ll add this. I really enjoy staying in ours.  My limit though, is about a week or so.  And I’ve stayed in some fucking terrible places across this globe, so I don’t need the 4 seasons or the Ritz to be happy.
 

I’ll add further, you can get some crazy “luxurious” campers, and it may extend that comfortable time for a bit.  But we’re pretty well appointed, and at some point, I just need my normal bed again.  The good thing is you can turn them over very easily when it’s time to sell, and it’s “yours” when you have it.  

[JMFP 1113]

8 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

 

 

You haven't priced out mountain real estate recently, have you?

 

Just trying to help you spend your money 😁

[horn4life 3749]

9 hours ago, fattyflattie said:

I’ll add this. I really enjoy staying in ours.  My limit though, is about a week or so.  And I’ve stayed in some fucking terrible places across this globe, so I don’t need the 4 seasons or the Ritz to be happy.
 

I’ll add further, you can get some crazy “luxurious” campers, and it may extend that comfortable time for a bit.  But we’re pretty well appointed, and at some point, I just need my normal bed again.  The good thing is you can turn them over very easily when it’s time to sell, and it’s “yours” when you have it.  

The thing that surprised us after getting a trailer was how it became "home" so quickly, compared to our usual condo/hotel stays.  It just felt so much more like "home" that it honestly surprised us.  I guess it's knowing where all your crap is, but still the feeling was surprising and we both noted it. 

I will also say that I would NEVER consider buying anything built during covid.  RV's are already notorious for crappy construction, during covid you were a potential assembly line employee if you can identify two types of screwdrivers... and that was the "high bar."  Anyhow I think a trailer is doable, but you just need to pay good attention to insulation and keeping any water lines from freezing. A heated water intake hose would also be a must in potentially freezing weather. But the idea will work with some solid prep.

[Chewbacca 7625]

I’ll add this. I really enjoy staying in ours.  My limit though, is about a week or so.  And I’ve stayed in some fucking terrible places across this globe, so I don’t need the 4 seasons or the Ritz to be happy.
 
I’ll add further, you can get some crazy “luxurious” campers, and it may extend that comfortable time for a bit.  But we’re pretty well appointed, and at some point, I just need my normal bed again.  The good thing is you can turn them over very easily when it’s time to sell, and it’s “yours” when you have it.  

This will be primarily for weekends. I just need a shower and a TV and a comfortable bed. How is cooking in one of those?

And resale is a big part of what is pushing me in this direction.

[JMFP 1113]

7 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

This will be primarily for weekends. I just need a shower and a TV and a comfortable bed. How is cooking in one of those?

And resale is a big part of what is pushing me in this direction.

The ovens are crappy to bake in, heat unevenly but it helps to use a pizza stone or something like a terra cotta tile in the bottom of the oven. You're going to burn the shit of biscuits until you get it worked out. Other then that its OK IMO, just smaller. You have to stay really organized. I think you'd find yourself cooking outside a lot on the grill or Blackstone.

The nice thing is having your place. Familiar bed and all that. Weekends should be easy to handle. My limit is about 5 days but I also have 3 daughters that can only handle so much of each other in a day... 

[fattyflattie 4633]

15 minutes ago, JMFP said:

My limit is about 5 days but I also have 3 daughters that can only handle so much of each other in a day... 

Are you me, but in OK?

50 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

This will be primarily for weekends. I just need a shower and a TV and a comfortable bed. How is cooking in one of those?

And resale is a big part of what is pushing me in this direction.

You will need to tailor your search to that.  Shower size and kitchen specifically.  You can have both, and iirc, your kids are older, so you may not require/want a bunkhouse.  We have a massive bunk for the girls, limiting shower and kitchen. It’s perfect for us.  But the units tailored for older traveling couples, for example, have much greater living spaces and kitchens, bathrooms, etc.   I can’t help you on the kitchen, we use the black stone or grill 95% of the time, and bring food that doesn’t need to be cooked for the other meals.  It’s not so much because the kitchen can’t handle it more than my wife keeps the thing clean af, cleaner than our actual house. 

I know how you like your vehicles.  The biggest issue you might (I did) face was that outside of a few super high end brands (Airstream included) these things are largely shitty construction with shitty materials.   We’ve been fortunate and haven’t had any issues, but I’m generally really easy on my stuff. Just something to keep in mind.
 

We came in with a plan for it, like it sounds you have, and that helped ease my mind.    If you’re buying new a ton of headache goes away, we found it difficult to find what we wanted preowned, and when we did, it would be trashed or price wrong or whatever.  But we found our unicorn, largely by luck.  
 

2-3 days at a time is quite enjoyable, if anything just to mix it up some.  

[horn4life 3749]

1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

This will be primarily for weekends. I just need a shower and a TV and a comfortable bed. How is cooking in one of those?

And resale is a big part of what is pushing me in this direction.

Buy a great used RV from an older responsible person, as a second buyer would be my advice.  The prior owner had every frigging record and receipt, as well as lists for setup and breakdown.  Plus they had already found out what was screwed up, and had it repaired.  I will also say that one thing that was important to us was a quality bed.  Again the prior owners spend like and extra grand for a better bed so it's more like your home bed.  

What I did was some solid research on a couple models that would satisfy my requirements of being able to stay cool in Summer (for you warm in winter).  Then I scoured most of the state on Craigslist, finding the rig in San Antonio.  I was in no hurry and was willing to wait for the right deal.  It took maybe 6 weeks to find exactly what I wanted at a "deal" price.  Sounds like a solid trailer is exactly what you need.  Gonna need to find a way to dump your black water tank into your septic, but other than that it should work for you.