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Hi Fi and Home theater set ups


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7 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:


Yes. Cooler air has to replace hot air that exhausts.

No airflow like that and you’re just cycling the same air and making it warmer. 

True, although with that unit on top, i can probably just cut a rectangular hole and leave it open, no?  

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27 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

True, although with that unit on top, i can probably just cut a rectangular hole and leave it open, no?  

Not quite.

Cooler air comes in one spot, and out another.

You need the cooler air to flow around your devices so their fans can draw it in and expel the hot air which then exits another location.

both directions in the some spot doesn’t work.

Is the back solid too? Or just a cover from whatever? My cabinet has plastic back panels, for example. (But it also has airflow paths.)

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9 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

Not quite.

Cooler air comes in one spot, and out another.

You need the cooler air to flow around your devices so their fans can draw it in and expel the hot air which then exits another location.

both directions in the some spot doesn’t work.

Is the back solid too? Or just a cover from whatever? My cabinet has plastic back panels, for example. (But it also has airflow paths.)

whole thing is solid wood.  I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to cut in this thing.

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2 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

whole thing is solid wood.  I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to cut in this thing.

 

Well, shit.

You have some options, but they're getting thin.

Here's one, since you're looking at a repeater anyway, could you possibly put it in another location all together? And by that I mean anywhere. Here's a few ideas to get you thinking:

- Another room behind the wall the cabinet is on?
- Bottom shelf of an end table in the same room
- Closet
- Shelf somewhere
- Basement

Overall concept is an hdmi cable from the tv to a wall plate. Then an in-wall rated HDMI cable from the back of that plate to the other location and into the back of that plate. Then HDMI from that plate to the AVR. Speak cables, same thing. End result is a clean look, like any other wall plate. Be it an outlet, cable jack, phone jack, ethernet jack, etc.

Shouldn't be terrible. I did the speaker wire part, but didn't need the HDMI part since the AVR is in the cabinet. Might have to look into IR over ethernet, which puts the IR signal on an ethernet cable run between 2 converters. Lets the signal travel further than a typical setup.

 

 

So that would be one option. Would save holes in the cabinet, provide a clean look (and it's behind the cabinet too), and should meet the wife factor.

 

If that isn't an option, then is the inside of the cabinet completely open, or is it compartmentalized?

That will be a deciding factor. Aren't there already holes of some sort? Even a row of round little 1" ones or something?

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20 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

 

Well, shit.

You have some options, but they're getting thin.

Here's one, since you're looking at a repeater anyway, could you possibly put it in another location all together? And by that I mean anywhere. Here's a few ideas to get you thinking:

- Another room behind the wall the cabinet is on?
- Bottom shelf of an end table in the same room
- Closet
- Shelf somewhere
- Basement

Overall concept is an hdmi cable from the tv to a wall plate. Then an in-wall rated HDMI cable from the back of that plate to the other location and into the back of that plate. Then HDMI from that plate to the AVR. Speak cables, same thing. End result is a clean look, like any other wall plate. Be it an outlet, cable jack, phone jack, ethernet jack, etc.

Shouldn't be terrible. I did the speaker wire part, but didn't need the HDMI part since the AVR is in the cabinet. Might have to look into IR over ethernet, which puts the IR signal on an ethernet cable run between 2 converters. Lets the signal travel further than a typical setup.

 

 

So that would be one option. Would save holes in the cabinet, provide a clean look (and it's behind the cabinet too), and should meet the wife factor.

 

If that isn't an option, then is the inside of the cabinet completely open, or is it compartmentalized?

That will be a deciding factor. Aren't there already holes of some sort? Even a row of round little 1" ones or something?

All the cabling is already run (really just a smurf tube from behind the tv to behind the media cabinet for HDMI), and drywall is in, so location is set.  At this point I can't get HDMI run to a different location without spending more than the media cabinet cost.  Clean look is very important.

I'll probably just cut 2 holes in the back.  One for an exhaust fan and one for air and speaker wires, plugs, etc.

 

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2 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

All the cabling is already run (really just a smurf tube from behind the tv to behind the media cabinet for HDMI), and drywall is in, so location is set.  At this point I can't get HDMI run to a different location without spending more than the media cabinet cost.  Clean look is very important.

I'll probably just cut 2 holes in the back.  One for an exhaust fan and one for air and speaker wires, plugs, etc.

 

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Don't feel too bad. I'm actually facing a similar decision with my cabinet, but it's a bigger deal than vent holes in the back.

If you recall from the other thread, I'm in a bit of a pickle to think through about where to put my projector because where/how I planned is just about an inch from being right. Short of it, I'm in a spot where I might need to cut away part of the top of my cabinet. For now it's sitting on top, until I decide what to do with it. I really, really don't want to cut the solid oak top off that damn thing. Paid too much. 😂

If so, I have a plunge router and a bit that matches the existing edges. Stain it the same, and it would be alright. But I really, really, don't want to cut the top if I don't have to, and am working through possible alternatives. If I could just slide the cabinet back to right off the wall, I'd be good. However, there's a floor register that would be under the back right foot. I'll pass on resting a corner of a 200# cabinet on it.

It's ok for now in the short term, but I'll need to do something with it before too much longer.

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Don't feel too bad. I'm actually facing a similar decision with my cabinet, but it's a bigger deal than vent holes in the back.
If you recall from the other thread, I'm in a bit of a pickle to think through about where to put my projector because where/how I planned is just about an inch from being right. Short of it, I'm in a spot where I might need to cut away part of the top of my cabinet. For now it's sitting on top, until I decide what to do with it. I really, really don't want to cut the solid oak top off that damn thing. Paid too much.
If so, I have a plunge router and a bit that matches the existing edges. Stain it the same, and it would be alright. But I really, really, don't want to cut the top if I don't have to, and am working through possible alternatives. If I could just slide the cabinet back to right off the wall, I'd be good. However, there's a floor register that would be under the back right foot. I'll pass on resting a corner of a 200# cabinet on it.
It's ok for now in the short term, but I'll need to do something with it before too much longer.
Oof. Can you get new floor registers that can handle the weight? They make steel ones.
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I’ve got steel ones now. Just put em in with the new floor.

It would probably be fine, but I don’t want half that vent blocked is the biggest part.

And shifting to just off it is just enough of an offset to look unbalanced across the front of all of it. Guess I could slide the screen a hair to the left to compensate. Probably would drive me nuts though. 

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For IR Repeating look at the Sewell BlastIR Wireless Pro Kit. You don’t actually have to have a hardwired connection between transmitter and receiver/emitter, which gives you a lot more flexibility…

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6 minutes ago, Ignatius said:

For IR Repeating look at the Sewell BlastIR Wireless Pro Kit. You don’t actually have to have a hardwired connection between transmitter and receiver/emitter, which gives you a lot more flexibility…


Depending on how crowded your spectrum is, of course. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
26 minutes ago, mdmost said:

You need to find the matching stereo receiver for that Pioneer line. 

I may. The turntable is my late dad's, which he bought around 1976. Pioneer PL-530. Still looks and works great other than a scratched and cracked dust cover.

He probably bought the Akai deck, GXC-730D, around then as well.

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Posted (edited)
42 minutes ago, gofuckyourself said:

I may. The turntable is my late dad's, which he bought around 1976. Pioneer PL-530. Still looks and works great other than a scratched and cracked dust cover.

He probably bought the Akai deck, GXC-730D, around then as well.

Got rid of my parents pioneer SX-727 a few years back when they needed something with hdmi. That thing was the tits

IMG_8355.jpeg

Edited by hobbes2702
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16 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

Got rid of my parents pioneer SX-727 a few years back when they needed something with hdmi. That thing was the tits

IMG_8355.jpeg

Nice.

Looks similar to the receiver we had with their system, but it wasn't pioneer. I think Onkyo.

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8 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

Why wired specifically? And do you need quarter inch size?

I'd rather have wired because my experience with most electronics is the Bluetooth portion would only last a couple of years, battery degradation etc.

Yeah, looking for quarter inch, but I have adapters. 

And no, I am not willing to spend $1000 on the high end shit.

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I think Sennheiser is where most would look for that but I haven’t used them myself.

Bowers and Wilkins Px8 I think still allow you to go wired (but I think it’s usbc to 3.5mm). I’ve used those and they are my favorite for music. Great great sound. $699

I use the Sony WH1000XM5 now and really like them. I’m like 99% sure it comes with a wired option. These are noise cancelling but you can turn that off and allow sound through. Great sound, lots of ability to adjust your levels. $349.

 

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On 7/5/2024 at 11:23 AM, hobbes2702 said:

I think Sennheiser is where most would look for that but I haven’t used them myself.

Bowers and Wilkins Px8 I think still allow you to go wired (but I think it’s usbc to 3.5mm). I’ve used those and they are my favorite for music. Great great sound. $699

I use the Sony WH1000XM5 now and really like them. I’m like 99% sure it comes with a wired option. These are noise cancelling but you can turn that off and allow sound through. Great sound, lots of ability to adjust your levels. $349.

 

I have those Sonys as well.  Sound is great as is the noise canceling.  My only complaint is that they get hot.

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Anyone have experience with SVS subs?  Looking to get the best one that will fit next to my media cabinet, so it can't protrude out past the media cabinet (will be next to a walkway).  Media cabinet is 20" deep and I'm guessing we'll put it 3-4 inches off the wall, so I need to be sticking out 22" or less.  That rules out their bigger ported subs so I'll probably need to go sealed.  Any opinions on the SB-16 Ultra or SB-4000?

Room is big with vaulted ceilings so I want to fill the space the best I can.

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What do you listen to more: music or movies/tv?

PB’s will fill it better for movies/tv, etc. Sealed for tighter bass for music, etc.

Have you considered a pair of PB-2000 pro’s, over a single sub?

As far as quality, you’re good to go. 
 

PB3k is only 26” deep, might be doable.

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On 7/5/2024 at 7:40 AM, freyguy said:

Is there a set of wired headphones for yall have been satisfied with?  Way too many options to research.

 

On 7/15/2024 at 4:09 PM, Deej said:

I still love my old school Sony MDR-7506's. Very neutral sound.

☝️ That. Can't go wrong with em, other than the pads wearing out and needing replacement after a few years. You can spend more, but there's diminishing returns, I think.

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7 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

What do you listen to more: music or movies/tv?

PB’s will fill it better for movies/tv, etc. Sealed for tighter bass for music, etc.

Have you considered a pair of PB-2000 pro’s, over a single sub?

As far as quality, you’re good to go. 
 

PB3k is only 26” deep, might be doable.

Only space for one sub, unfortunately.  We are probably 60/40 tv/music. Ported would probably do what I want better, but their ported subs are fucking enormous (like 30" deep).  I cannot stick out past the media cabinet because it's a tight walkway to begin with.  Dimensions are tougher on remodels than new construction.

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7 minutes ago, Rimbo said:

 

☝️ That. Can't go wrong with em, other than the pads wearing out and needing replacement after a few years. You can spend more, but there's diminishing returns, I think.

Yup, just picked some up.  For that price, I'm very happy, thx for the suggestions. 

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I probably put this on the wrong thread, sorry for the redundancy.  Any thoughts?

=====

My kids got me a turntable for my birthday.  Nothing fancy, total base model, but I haven't owned a TT for 20 years, so this will be a good chance to dig back into my vinyl collection, which isn't small.

I'm wondering about record and stylus cleaning:  In my day, I was super proficient with a Discwasher brush (+ fluid) and stylus brush.  I see a few knockoffs of that type out there, are any of them any good?  (RCA, EVEO, Big Fudge, etc.).  I have a feeling the RCA product may be the old Discwasher product, since "D4" are in both names.

I own that big yellow plastic thing and honestly I'd just rather give it away, so don't recommend that.

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1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

Only space for one sub, unfortunately.  We are probably 60/40 tv/music. Ported would probably do what I want better, but their ported subs are fucking enormous (like 30" deep).  I cannot stick out past the media cabinet because it's a tight walkway to begin with.  Dimensions are tougher on remodels than new construction.


The PB-2000 pro was under the depth, barely. PB-3000 would be just over at 26”, but if the cabinet is 20” deep already, and you were going to pull it out 4” already, what’s 2 more inches?

I just looked and mine is about that from the back to the wall. Room for power and cable management behind, so it works.

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31 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:


The PB-2000 pro was under the depth, barely. PB-3000 would be just over at 26”, but if the cabinet is 20” deep already, and you were going to pull it out 4” already, what’s 2 more inches?

I just looked and mine is about that from the back to the wall. Room for power and cable management behind, so it works.

Are we accounting for wives in these calculations?

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17 hours ago, thunderlounge said:


The PB-2000 pro was under the depth, barely. PB-3000 would be just over at 26”, but if the cabinet is 20” deep already, and you were going to pull it out 4” already, what’s 2 more inches?

I just looked and mine is about that from the back to the wall. Room for power and cable management behind, so it works.

Leave room for the wires and plug that stick out of the back of the sub. That extra two inches is not included in the dimensions 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, jimmyjazz said:

. . . which brings up the question, who needs a huge chunky 3-prong power cord?

My sub came with it, heavy gauge.  Couldn’t find a 90 degree adapter to fit the power cable (not straight male/female into the Sub power input)
 

not my pic but you get the gist 

image.thumb.jpeg.c814ae5e14de97858b4a0a85a86a4274.jpeg

🤷‍♂️

Edited by ChickenSandwich
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Anyone have experience with SVS subs?  Looking to get the best one that will fit next to my media cabinet, so it can't protrude out past the media cabinet (will be next to a walkway).  Media cabinet is 20" deep and I'm guessing we'll put it 3-4 inches off the wall, so I need to be sticking out 22" or less.  That rules out their bigger ported subs so I'll probably need to go sealed.  Any opinions on the SB-16 Ultra or SB-4000?
Room is big with vaulted ceilings so I want to fill the space the best I can.

I bought an SVS cylinder sub close to 20 years ago. Still all original, still sounds great!
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