Hi Fi and Home theater set ups

[Chewbacca 7667]

7 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

Yes. Cooler air has to replace hot air that exhausts.

No airflow like that and you’re just cycling the same air and making it warmer. 

True, although with that unit on top, i can probably just cut a rectangular hole and leave it open, no?  

[thunderlounge 7701]

27 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

True, although with that unit on top, i can probably just cut a rectangular hole and leave it open, no?  

Not quite.

Cooler air comes in one spot, and out another.

You need the cooler air to flow around your devices so their fans can draw it in and expel the hot air which then exits another location.

both directions in the some spot doesn’t work.

Is the back solid too? Or just a cover from whatever? My cabinet has plastic back panels, for example. (But it also has airflow paths.)

[Chewbacca 7667]

9 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

Not quite.

Cooler air comes in one spot, and out another.

You need the cooler air to flow around your devices so their fans can draw it in and expel the hot air which then exits another location.

both directions in the some spot doesn’t work.

Is the back solid too? Or just a cover from whatever? My cabinet has plastic back panels, for example. (But it also has airflow paths.)

whole thing is solid wood.  I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to cut in this thing.

[thunderlounge 7701]

2 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

whole thing is solid wood.  I'm trying to limit the number of holes I have to cut in this thing.

 

Well, shit.

You have some options, but they're getting thin.

Here's one, since you're looking at a repeater anyway, could you possibly put it in another location all together? And by that I mean anywhere. Here's a few ideas to get you thinking:

- Another room behind the wall the cabinet is on?
- Bottom shelf of an end table in the same room
- Closet
- Shelf somewhere
- Basement

Overall concept is an hdmi cable from the tv to a wall plate. Then an in-wall rated HDMI cable from the back of that plate to the other location and into the back of that plate. Then HDMI from that plate to the AVR. Speak cables, same thing. End result is a clean look, like any other wall plate. Be it an outlet, cable jack, phone jack, ethernet jack, etc.

Shouldn't be terrible. I did the speaker wire part, but didn't need the HDMI part since the AVR is in the cabinet. Might have to look into IR over ethernet, which puts the IR signal on an ethernet cable run between 2 converters. Lets the signal travel further than a typical setup.

 

 

So that would be one option. Would save holes in the cabinet, provide a clean look (and it's behind the cabinet too), and should meet the wife factor.

 

If that isn't an option, then is the inside of the cabinet completely open, or is it compartmentalized?

That will be a deciding factor. Aren't there already holes of some sort? Even a row of round little 1" ones or something?

[Chewbacca 7667]

20 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

 

Well, shit.

You have some options, but they're getting thin.

Here's one, since you're looking at a repeater anyway, could you possibly put it in another location all together? And by that I mean anywhere. Here's a few ideas to get you thinking:

- Another room behind the wall the cabinet is on?
- Bottom shelf of an end table in the same room
- Closet
- Shelf somewhere
- Basement

Overall concept is an hdmi cable from the tv to a wall plate. Then an in-wall rated HDMI cable from the back of that plate to the other location and into the back of that plate. Then HDMI from that plate to the AVR. Speak cables, same thing. End result is a clean look, like any other wall plate. Be it an outlet, cable jack, phone jack, ethernet jack, etc.

Shouldn't be terrible. I did the speaker wire part, but didn't need the HDMI part since the AVR is in the cabinet. Might have to look into IR over ethernet, which puts the IR signal on an ethernet cable run between 2 converters. Lets the signal travel further than a typical setup.

 

 

So that would be one option. Would save holes in the cabinet, provide a clean look (and it's behind the cabinet too), and should meet the wife factor.

 

If that isn't an option, then is the inside of the cabinet completely open, or is it compartmentalized?

That will be a deciding factor. Aren't there already holes of some sort? Even a row of round little 1" ones or something?

All the cabling is already run (really just a smurf tube from behind the tv to behind the media cabinet for HDMI), and drywall is in, so location is set.  At this point I can't get HDMI run to a different location without spending more than the media cabinet cost.  Clean look is very important.

I'll probably just cut 2 holes in the back.  One for an exhaust fan and one for air and speaker wires, plugs, etc.

 

[thunderlounge 7701]

Holy shit. There really isn’t any cable management or jack shit. Well, that’s that.

Maybe a few slits on the bottom shelf, and a fan blowing out the top of the back?

 

[ChickenSandwich 9795]

Anyone looking for media furniture, check out BDI, they make some good looking purpose built modern options. 
 

https://www.bdiusa.com/media-storage/modern-tv-stands-entertainment-centers

[thunderlounge 7701]

2 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

All the cabling is already run (really just a smurf tube from behind the tv to behind the media cabinet for HDMI), and drywall is in, so location is set.  At this point I can't get HDMI run to a different location without spending more than the media cabinet cost.  Clean look is very important.

I'll probably just cut 2 holes in the back.  One for an exhaust fan and one for air and speaker wires, plugs, etc.

 

 

Don't feel too bad. I'm actually facing a similar decision with my cabinet, but it's a bigger deal than vent holes in the back.

If you recall from the other thread, I'm in a bit of a pickle to think through about where to put my projector because where/how I planned is just about an inch from being right. Short of it, I'm in a spot where I might need to cut away part of the top of my cabinet. For now it's sitting on top, until I decide what to do with it. I really, really don't want to cut the solid oak top off that damn thing. Paid too much. 😂

If so, I have a plunge router and a bit that matches the existing edges. Stain it the same, and it would be alright. But I really, really, don't want to cut the top if I don't have to, and am working through possible alternatives. If I could just slide the cabinet back to right off the wall, I'd be good. However, there's a floor register that would be under the back right foot. I'll pass on resting a corner of a 200# cabinet on it.

It's ok for now in the short term, but I'll need to do something with it before too much longer.

[Chewbacca 7667]

 
Don't feel too bad. I'm actually facing a similar decision with my cabinet, but it's a bigger deal than vent holes in the back.
If you recall from the other thread, I'm in a bit of a pickle to think through about where to put my projector because where/how I planned is just about an inch from being right. Short of it, I'm in a spot where I might need to cut away part of the top of my cabinet. For now it's sitting on top, until I decide what to do with it. I really, really don't want to cut the solid oak top off that damn thing. Paid too much.
If so, I have a plunge router and a bit that matches the existing edges. Stain it the same, and it would be alright. But I really, really, don't want to cut the top if I don't have to, and am working through possible alternatives. If I could just slide the cabinet back to right off the wall, I'd be good. However, there's a floor register that would be under the back right foot. I'll pass on resting a corner of a 200# cabinet on it.
It's ok for now in the short term, but I'll need to do something with it before too much longer.

Oof. Can you get new floor registers that can handle the weight? They make steel ones.

[thunderlounge 7701]

I’ve got steel ones now. Just put em in with the new floor.

It would probably be fine, but I don’t want half that vent blocked is the biggest part.

And shifting to just off it is just enough of an offset to look unbalanced across the front of all of it. Guess I could slide the screen a hair to the left to compensate. Probably would drive me nuts though. 

[Ignatius 3990]

For IR Repeating look at the Sewell BlastIR Wireless Pro Kit. You don’t actually have to have a hardwired connection between transmitter and receiver/emitter, which gives you a lot more flexibility…

[thunderlounge 7701]

6 minutes ago, Ignatius said:

For IR Repeating look at the Sewell BlastIR Wireless Pro Kit. You don’t actually have to have a hardwired connection between transmitter and receiver/emitter, which gives you a lot more flexibility…

Depending on how crowded your spectrum is, of course. 

[gofuckyourself 8099]

Don't remember if I have someone here or somewhere else to thank for the recommendation but I picked up some Klipsch speakers. Really enjoying them.

They were inexpensive but they sound damn good to my uneducated ears.

[mdmost 42696]

You need to find the matching stereo receiver for that Pioneer line. 

[gofuckyourself 8099]

26 minutes ago, mdmost said:

You need to find the matching stereo receiver for that Pioneer line. 

I may. The turntable is my late dad's, which he bought around 1976. Pioneer PL-530. Still looks and works great other than a scratched and cracked dust cover.

He probably bought the Akai deck, GXC-730D, around then as well.

[hobbes2702 12769]

42 minutes ago, gofuckyourself said:

I may. The turntable is my late dad's, which he bought around 1976. Pioneer PL-530. Still looks and works great other than a scratched and cracked dust cover.

He probably bought the Akai deck, GXC-730D, around then as well.

Got rid of my parents pioneer SX-727 a few years back when they needed something with hdmi. That thing was the tits

Edited July 4 by hobbes2702

[gofuckyourself 8099]

16 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

Got rid of my parents pioneer SX-727 a few years back when they needed something with hdmi. That thing was the tits

Nice.

Looks similar to the receiver we had with their system, but it wasn't pioneer. I think Onkyo.

[freyguy 4243]

Is there a set of wired headphones for yall have been satisfied with?  Way too many options to research.

[TwiceHorn 31087]

1 minute ago, freyguy said:

Is there a set of wired headphones for yall have been satisfied with?  Way too many options to research.

Grado offers a lot of bang for the buck.

[mdmost 42696]

I use Sennheiser HD-598s in my office when my wife is also working from home. I'm sure you can find better ones but they sound great to me. 

[hobbes2702 12769]

2 hours ago, freyguy said:

Is there a set of wired headphones for yall have been satisfied with?  Way too many options to research.

Why wired specifically? And do you need quarter inch size?

[freyguy 4243]

8 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

Why wired specifically? And do you need quarter inch size?

I'd rather have wired because my experience with most electronics is the Bluetooth portion would only last a couple of years, battery degradation etc.

Yeah, looking for quarter inch, but I have adapters. 

And no, I am not willing to spend $1000 on the high end shit.

[hobbes2702 12769]

I think Sennheiser is where most would look for that but I haven’t used them myself.

Bowers and Wilkins Px8 I think still allow you to go wired (but I think it’s usbc to 3.5mm). I’ve used those and they are my favorite for music. Great great sound. $699

I use the Sony WH1000XM5 now and really like them. I’m like 99% sure it comes with a wired option. These are noise cancelling but you can turn that off and allow sound through. Great sound, lots of ability to adjust your levels. $349.

 

[Deej 76400]

Yeah, every pair of over-the-ear bluetooth headphones has had the option to work wired. 

[jimmyjazz 45430]

Agreed on Grado or Sennheiser.  I've mixed records on my Senns with some success.  I think they're HD-650 or some such.

[Chewbacca 7667]

On 7/5/2024 at 11:23 AM, hobbes2702 said:

I think Sennheiser is where most would look for that but I haven’t used them myself.

Bowers and Wilkins Px8 I think still allow you to go wired (but I think it’s usbc to 3.5mm). I’ve used those and they are my favorite for music. Great great sound. $699

I use the Sony WH1000XM5 now and really like them. I’m like 99% sure it comes with a wired option. These are noise cancelling but you can turn that off and allow sound through. Great sound, lots of ability to adjust your levels. $349.

 

I have those Sonys as well.  Sound is great as is the noise canceling.  My only complaint is that they get hot.

[Deej 76400]

I still love my old school Sony MDR-7506's. Very neutral sound.

[Chewbacca 7667]

Anyone have experience with SVS subs?  Looking to get the best one that will fit next to my media cabinet, so it can't protrude out past the media cabinet (will be next to a walkway).  Media cabinet is 20" deep and I'm guessing we'll put it 3-4 inches off the wall, so I need to be sticking out 22" or less.  That rules out their bigger ported subs so I'll probably need to go sealed.  Any opinions on the SB-16 Ultra or SB-4000?

Room is big with vaulted ceilings so I want to fill the space the best I can.

[thunderlounge 7701]

What do you listen to more: music or movies/tv?

PB’s will fill it better for movies/tv, etc. Sealed for tighter bass for music, etc.

Have you considered a pair of PB-2000 pro’s, over a single sub?

As far as quality, you’re good to go. 
 

PB3k is only 26” deep, might be doable.

[Rimbo 25706]

On 7/5/2024 at 7:40 AM, freyguy said:

Is there a set of wired headphones for yall have been satisfied with?  Way too many options to research.

 

On 7/15/2024 at 4:09 PM, Deej said:

I still love my old school Sony MDR-7506's. Very neutral sound.

☝️ That. Can't go wrong with em, other than the pads wearing out and needing replacement after a few years. You can spend more, but there's diminishing returns, I think.

[Deej 76400]

Every time I watch something with people in a studio, they seem to be using them. 

[Chewbacca 7667]

7 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

What do you listen to more: music or movies/tv?

PB’s will fill it better for movies/tv, etc. Sealed for tighter bass for music, etc.

Have you considered a pair of PB-2000 pro’s, over a single sub?

As far as quality, you’re good to go. 
 

PB3k is only 26” deep, might be doable.

Only space for one sub, unfortunately.  We are probably 60/40 tv/music. Ported would probably do what I want better, but their ported subs are fucking enormous (like 30" deep).  I cannot stick out past the media cabinet because it's a tight walkway to begin with.  Dimensions are tougher on remodels than new construction.

[freyguy 4243]

7 minutes ago, Rimbo said:

 

☝️ That. Can't go wrong with em, other than the pads wearing out and needing replacement after a few years. You can spend more, but there's diminishing returns, I think.

Yup, just picked some up.  For that price, I'm very happy, thx for the suggestions. 

[Deej 76400]

You'll like them. Solid headphones.

[jimmyjazz 45430]

I probably put this on the wrong thread, sorry for the redundancy.  Any thoughts?

=====

My kids got me a turntable for my birthday.  Nothing fancy, total base model, but I haven't owned a TT for 20 years, so this will be a good chance to dig back into my vinyl collection, which isn't small.

I'm wondering about record and stylus cleaning:  In my day, I was super proficient with a Discwasher brush (+ fluid) and stylus brush.  I see a few knockoffs of that type out there, are any of them any good?  (RCA, EVEO, Big Fudge, etc.).  I have a feeling the RCA product may be the old Discwasher product, since "D4" are in both names.

I own that big yellow plastic thing and honestly I'd just rather give it away, so don't recommend that.

[thunderlounge 7701]

1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

Only space for one sub, unfortunately.  We are probably 60/40 tv/music. Ported would probably do what I want better, but their ported subs are fucking enormous (like 30" deep).  I cannot stick out past the media cabinet because it's a tight walkway to begin with.  Dimensions are tougher on remodels than new construction.

The PB-2000 pro was under the depth, barely. PB-3000 would be just over at 26”, but if the cabinet is 20” deep already, and you were going to pull it out 4” already, what’s 2 more inches?

I just looked and mine is about that from the back to the wall. Room for power and cable management behind, so it works.

[jimmyjazz 45430]

31 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

The PB-2000 pro was under the depth, barely. PB-3000 would be just over at 26”, but if the cabinet is 20” deep already, and you were going to pull it out 4” already, what’s 2 more inches?

I just looked and mine is about that from the back to the wall. Room for power and cable management behind, so it works.

Are we accounting for wives in these calculations?

[thunderlounge 7701]

4 minutes ago, jimmyjazz said:

Are we accounting for wives in these calculations?

Oh, his wife definitely wants 2 more inches.

 

[ChickenSandwich 9795]

17 hours ago, thunderlounge said:

The PB-2000 pro was under the depth, barely. PB-3000 would be just over at 26”, but if the cabinet is 20” deep already, and you were going to pull it out 4” already, what’s 2 more inches?

I just looked and mine is about that from the back to the wall. Room for power and cable management behind, so it works.

Leave room for the wires and plug that stick out of the back of the sub. That extra two inches is not included in the dimensions 

[thunderlounge 7701]

28 minutes ago, ChickenSandwich said:

Leave room for the wires and plug that stick out of the back of the sub. That extra two inches is not included in the dimensions 

Nothing a right angle plug can’t fix, if necessary.

[ChickenSandwich 9795]

52 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

Nothing a right angle plug can’t fix, if necessary.

right angles are fine for the RCAs etc, not always as easy with a huge chunky 3 prong power cord is involved

[jimmyjazz 45430]

. . . which brings up the question, who needs a huge chunky 3-prong power cord?

[ChickenSandwich 9795]

4 hours ago, jimmyjazz said:

. . . which brings up the question, who needs a huge chunky 3-prong power cord?

My sub came with it, heavy gauge.  Couldn’t find a 90 degree adapter to fit the power cable (not straight male/female into the Sub power input)
 

not my pic but you get the gist 

🤷‍♂️

Edited July 18 by ChickenSandwich

[ou97cpa 3]

Anyone have experience with SVS subs?  Looking to get the best one that will fit next to my media cabinet, so it can't protrude out past the media cabinet (will be next to a walkway).  Media cabinet is 20" deep and I'm guessing we'll put it 3-4 inches off the wall, so I need to be sticking out 22" or less.  That rules out their bigger ported subs so I'll probably need to go sealed.  Any opinions on the SB-16 Ultra or SB-4000?
Room is big with vaulted ceilings so I want to fill the space the best I can.

I bought an SVS cylinder sub close to 20 years ago. Still all original, still sounds great!

[Chewbacca 7667]

Just got off the phone with SVS to talk through what sub they recommend.  Going with SVS Ultra Evolution bookshelfs and center and an SB-16 Ultra sub.  They just released the SB-17 and PB-17 so if you're looking for a good deal on a sub the SB-16 Ultra and the PB-16 Ultra are $600 off while supplies last.

[Chewbacca 7667]

1. - nice, why no 85? I kid I kid
2.- Marantz, Denon, Yamaha are the main players, avoid the $500 range (poor power amp)
3. - Good choice - great home trial/return policy
4. - don't count out 2 smaller subs in lieu of one large sub if the room fits them better (WAG factor)
Streaming is personal preference, I love the ease of Apple TV 4K(Chromecast or roku, Nvida etc - but internal steaming options usually the worst);  1 HDMI eARC from AVR to TV, everything else runs through the AVR.
 
in your example, the Chromecast is plugged into the AVR, not the TV, but if not possible ( I don't Chromecast), the HDMI out will still be able to playback this audio through the AVR

Any specific receiver recs? Hoping to stay around 1000-1500 but will spend more of there is a good reason.

[ChickenSandwich 9795]

One of the main three brands always is running a sale and in that range it is hard to go wrong. Google some UI videos of each brand as that will be the biggest difference as well as their room correction software. Some are much more user friendly. 
 

If local, call A&B on Anderson Ln and see what they have in that range you can demo (really for the UI, remote and ease of use/setup etc). 

Edited October 10 by ChickenSandwich

[Chewbacca 7667]

One of the main three brands always is running a sale and in that range it is hard to go wrong. Google some UI videos of each brand as that will be the biggest difference as well as their room correction software. Some are much more user friendly. 
 
If local, call A&B on Anderson Ln and see what they have in that range you can demo (really for the UI, remote and ease of use/setup etc). 

Not local. I'm in CO.

[hobbes2702 12769]

34 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

On 6/18/2024 at 3:33 PM, ChickenSandwich said:

1. - nice, why no 85? I kid I kid
2.- Marantz, Denon, Yamaha are the main players, avoid the $500 range (poor power amp)
3. - Good choice - great home trial/return policy
4. - don't count out 2 smaller subs in lieu of one large sub if the room fits them better (WAG factor)
Streaming is personal preference, I love the ease of Apple TV 4K(Chromecast or roku, Nvida etc - but internal steaming options usually the worst);  1 HDMI eARC from AVR to TV, everything else runs through the AVR.
 
in your example, the Chromecast is plugged into the AVR, not the TV, but if not possible ( I don't Chromecast), the HDMI out will still be able to playback this audio through the AVR

Any specific receiver recs? Hoping to stay around 1000-1500 but will spend more of there is a good reason.

Marantz. But it’s been about 5 years since I’ve looked at them. Prolly cant do separates at that price but if you’d consider stretching you could look at Emotiva

[tbone_ 14016]

I ran across this while researching Marantz the other day

https://www.gearpatrol.com/audio/vintage-marantz-receiver-buying-guide/