Hi Fi and Home theater set ups

[rage-a-holic 4730]

26 minutes ago, Rimbo said:

So, not much difference from the stuff in the 80's, then...

😉

 

Nakamichi car audio in the 80s/90s was absolutely top of the line.

My cousin had a BMW in the late 80's with a custom Nakamichi system from Earmark that cost something ridiculous like $15k out the door.

You can score an unopened TD-9 deck on eBay for only $1500

[Rimbo 26983]

10 minutes ago, rage-a-holic said:

Nakamichi car audio in the 80s/90s was absolutely top of the line.

My cousin had a BMW in the late 80's with a custom Nakamichi system from Earmark that cost something ridiculous like $15k out the door.

You can score an unopened TD-9 deck on eBay for only $1500

For audio quality, yes. But for reliability? Not in our experience.

[VABuckeye 2481]

Reel to reel ftmfw. 

[thunderlounge 8406]

I think I have the receiver option figured out after a ton of reading. At least the "how" part.

 

Since we're on a new page, here's the layout diagram for reference.

Behind the cabinet I would add a wall plate with banana jacks. I would drill 1 or 2 holes through the bottom 2x4 into the joist space. Then I'll add similar plates (less connections) behind the couch on the left, and back/right corner behind the primary couch.

The runs themselves would be from the receiver to the plate, then from the plate down, to the left about 10ft to where I have joist access in the basement. Then 15ft towards the bottom, along the joist to the bottom right corner area where I already have a defunct phone drop with a blank plate over it already. That would allow for 2 back speakers and one right surround.

The run to the plate behind the left couch would be about half that run.

Later on if I want to add more, I can run additional cables to additional jacks.

 

Now, I've figured the longest run (plate to plate distance only) to be about 43ft. Add another 10ft onto that for total longest run (back left speaker), and that's a hefty bit of ground to go what would be 1/4 that distance direct.

With that being the case, I'll be using 14/4 CL-3 wire for those runs, and twisting the 2 pairs together. Same amount of cable in terms of total feet, but the wire is a little less than 12/2, and wiring together should yield a lower resistance than a 12/2 on its own.

 

The other option would be to find some type of raceway, or 3/4" conduit. With them adding another 3/4" of sub-floor on top of the existing sub-floor (for height matching, and leveling), I could run the conduit first, and let them add the sub-floor around that. Wouldn't make a ton of sense for the run behind the couch, but would work for the longer runs. Then again, that may piss off the installers with now having to make cuts for that. Guess I could always use a router to make out a groove for a track, once the sub-floor is down to help them out with that. A little leveling compound across the top to even out any gaps around the track and work out any height issue.

Second option would make for shorter runs, but may be more hassle than it's worth.

 

Of course I still have to decide between doing that and just throwing a soundbar setup at it. The replacement lot of flooring shows up next week on Tuesday, and install wouldn't start until at least next week Thursday. Since I haven't been contacted yet for the install date, it most likely will be later. So a week to 10 days at least to get it settled. If not, then it would be under and around with longer runs if I ended up going that route.

 

[nineliveslost 3000]

Looking into upgraded the home system for music and movies. Just bought a new center speaker. Throw out suggestions for a sub-woofer. Also throw out some suggestions for the other speakers in a 9.5 setup. The JBL's are not going to be replaced, much to the dismay of my wife. 

 

Yamaha RX-V2085 receiver

2 Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Atmos side speakers

Cheap Onkyo surround

Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-504C 600W 2.5-Way Center Channel Speaker, Piano Black center speaker

30 year old JBL L7 front speakers 

Room is 12' by 18' 

[thunderlounge 8406]

I just put in an SVS setup. They’re pretty fucking great.

Prime PB-2000 would be a great sub for that size room, Their bookshelf for surrounds, and they have atmos sides as well. Their true 3-way center is tits, too. 

[jimmyjazz 47092]

I've had Martin-Logan, SVS, and (currently) Emotiva subs.  All were fine.

It's not hard to build a good sub given reasonable box size and performance constraints.

[nineliveslost 3000]

18 hours ago, thunderlounge said:

I just put in an SVS setup. They’re pretty fucking great.

Prime PB-2000 would be a great sub for that size room, Their bookshelf for surrounds, and they have atmos sides as well. Their true 3-way center is tits, too. 

would 2 subwoofers be over kill?

 

[thunderlounge 8406]

My room is about the same size as yours, and 1 is fine. Depends on the acoustics of your room, but in terms of size you’re ok with 1.

If you want 2, ok. Won’t hurt anything, but could easily be overkill.

If SVS is interesting, crutchfield has some bundled packages that will knock some off, if one fits your needs.

 

[nineliveslost 3000]

46 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

My room is about the same size as yours, and 1 is fine. Depends on the acoustics of your room, but in terms of size you’re ok with 1.

If you want 2, ok. Won’t hurt anything, but could easily be overkill.

If SVS is interesting, crutchfield has some bundled packages that will knock some off, if one fits your needs.

 

Curious, how do you connect 2? Both go the receiver or does the second daisy chain off of the first subwoofer?

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

17 hours ago, nineliveslost said:

would 2 subwoofers be over kill?

 

Having two subs is not about decibels necessarily, it’s more about even distribution throughout the room. I think the stat is about +3db for 2 vs 1 when properly tuned. Also get a big boost in tactile bass. 
 

An AVR with dual sub inputs makes the process easy, not sure how to do two without dual inputs other than to split the line from the AVR and tune them individually as best you can?

 

Edited May 30 by ChickenSandwich

[jimmyjazz 47092]

One trick for locating your subwoofer:  put it in your listening position near ear height, play some music or other content with a lot of deep bass, and then walk (well, crawl) around the room to find the spot that sounds "best" (most likely, the deepest and loudest bass).  When you find that spot, put the sub there.  It's a reciprocal setup.  Then, tweak the subwoofer volume so that it sounds best to you.

Edited May 30 by jimmyjazz
speling

[thunderlounge 8406]

Most mid-level and up AVR’s have dual sub outs. Might be labeled L and R, and lokk like a typical RCA for a single speaker, but don’t over think it. One output, one sub, so two from a pair of RCA jacks. 

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

4 minutes ago, jimmyjazz said:

One trick for locating your subwoofer:  put it in your listening position near ear height, play some music or other content with a lot of deep bass, and then walk (well, crawl) around the room to find the spot that sounds "best" (most likely, the deepest and loudest bass).  When you find that spot, put the sub there.  It's a reciprocal setup.  Then, tweak the subwoofer volume so that it sounds best to you.

Amazon basics has some cheap long sub cables to make the sub crawl easier 

[nineliveslost 3000]

I might have asked this question already BUT

 

I am building my home theater system up and using a RX-V2085 - Specs - AV Receivers - Audio & Visual - Products - Yamaha - United States. Its listed as 9.2 , but has 11.2 speaker outs. How can I get all the speakers powered up and running at the same time ? Power amp?

 

 

[thunderlounge 8406]

I’m not sure it will even process all 11 at once. IIRC, it has that number to allow for multiple zones. To run both at once I think the second zone would need an amp. 
 

I looked at a yamaha pretty hard when looking for mine a couple months ago.

 

[nineliveslost 3000]

37 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

I’m not sure it will even process all 11 at once. IIRC, it has that number to allow for multiple zones. To run both at once I think the second zone would need an amp. 
 

I looked at a yamaha pretty hard when looking for mine a couple months ago.

 

I like it but it's complicate as hell. 

I miss the old days when you just plugged everything up and it was easy

 

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

On 6/8/2024 at 10:34 AM, nineliveslost said:

I might have asked this question already BUT

 

I am building my home theater system up and using a RX-V2085 - Specs - AV Receivers - Audio & Visual - Products - Yamaha - United States. Its listed as 9.2 , but has 11.2 speaker outs. How can I get all the speakers powered up and running at the same time ? Power amp?

 

 

It has the ability to decode 9.2 surround channels (not 11), it can only process 9 channels and 2 subs for Digital Surround/Atmos output.  The other channels are for a second zone, think patio speakers etc allowing two sources to be played at the same time (radio outside zone 2, cable tv inside Zone 1).   This AVR has the ability to run 4 different zones (not a huge feature for most home applications).  

 

You will often see an AVR that can process 11 channels but only has amplification for 9, these will have preouts like you have here to add a separate amp and process the full 11 channels of surround/atmos etc, but must be classified as an 11.2 or 11.4 channel receiver. 

[hobbes2702 13417]

I don’t see anywhere on the specs of that receiver what its power output is with 9 channels driven. Just something else to keep in mind. 
I think if I was interested in going that many channels I would consider doing some standalone amps or a Pre/Pro setup.

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

24 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

I don’t see anywhere on the specs of that receiver what its power output is with 9 channels driven. Just something else to keep in mind. 
I think if I was interested in going that many channels I would consider doing some standalone amps or a Pre/Pro setup.

You really don't need high power for anything but the L/C/R; if going to bother with separate amplifiers, focus there as it would be wasted on the surrounds/atmos/rear etc.  Yamaha AVR's in this price range have good digital amplifiers in them

Edited June 18 by ChickenSandwich

[nineliveslost 3000]

58 minutes ago, ChickenSandwich said:

It has the ability to decode 9.2 surround channels (not 11), it can only process 9 channels and 2 subs for Digital Surround/Atmos output.  The other channels are for a second zone, think patio speakers etc allowing two sources to be played at the same time (radio outside zone 2, cable tv inside Zone 1).   This AVR has the ability to run 4 different zones (not a huge feature for most home applications).  

 

You will often see an AVR that can process 11 channels but only has amplification for 9, these will have preouts like you have here to add a separate amp and process the full 11 channels of surround/atmos etc, but must be classified as an 11.2 or 11.4 channel receiver. 

Thanks for the response. Right now, I am setup with a 9.2 with surround speaker set up over surround back speakers.

 Front L/R

center

Surround L/R

Front presence L/R

Rear Presence L/R 

subwoofer

I was trying to get the surround back and surround to both work at the same time. 

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

you should be able to do that, you will need to look into the AVR's amp assignment menu and make sure you are running all 9 channels and not splitting between zones (not mandatory, but optimal performance)

 

Next is speaker/surround set up -  select the surround parameters you want

Easiest way to explain is start with a typical 5.1 system; that is L/C/R, 1 sub and 2 rear surrounds.

Adding 2 front height gives 5.1.2

Adding 2 rear presence gives 5.1.4

the consensus online says 5.1.2/4 will sound better than a 7.1.2 with today's surround decoding and the way the movies are mixed from the studio

"atmos=presence for yamaha"

"rear surround" and "side surround" are not atmos but considered part of the 5. or 7. configurations

 

I would make sure all power is going to the main zone (leave zones 2-4 unpowered).

Then select the 5.1.4 surround option

Left/Center/Right

2 Front Atmos/Height or Presence (terminology diff by brand - placement-some can select if these are in ceiling, on top of L/R or on wall above L/R)

2 Rear Surround 

2 Rear Atmos/Height or Presence (again, some will have placement options to choose from)

----------------------------- update, found manual

from owners manual

set for 5.2.4 (using rear presence speakers) - pg 22

set presence speaker placement (height, overhead or dolby enabled sp*) - pg. 26

set speaker impedance (per your speakers) pg 27

speaker connection wire diagram for your set up - 7.2.2 + 1 zone - pg 32

 

web_AV17-0235_RX-V3085_2085_om_A_En_D0.pdf (yamaha.com)

@nineliveslost

Edited June 18 by ChickenSandwich

[Chewbacca 7828]

Finalizing my HT setup for the new house and I think I'm about there.  Looking to do the following:

• 77" LG C3 television
• Haven't decided on the AVR yet (any recs?)
• SVS Ultra Evolution Center and bookshelf L/R (only doing a 3.1 system - will be probably 60% TV/movies and 40% music)
• SVS sub of some sort - probably get the biggest one the wife will let me get

All content will be streaming, so I'm struggling a bit figuring out how that will go.  Current plan is to hook up a Chromecast to the TV and then run audio (via eARC) to the AVR.  Is that the easiest/best way to do it?  Or is there a better way to do it?  

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

13 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Finalizing my HT setup for the new house and I think I'm about there.  Looking to do the following:

• 77" LG C3 television
• Haven't decided on the AVR yet (any recs?)
• SVS Ultra Evolution Center and bookshelf L/R (only doing a 3.1 system - will be probably 60% TV/movies and 40% music)
• SVS sub of some sort - probably get the biggest one the wife will let me get

All content will be streaming, so I'm struggling a bit figuring out how that will go.  Current plan is to hook up a Chromecast to the TV and then run audio (via eARC) to the AVR.  Is that the easiest/best way to do it?  Or is there a better way to do it?  

1. - nice, why no 85? I kid I kid

2.- Marantz, Denon, Yamaha are the main players, avoid the $500 range (poor power amp)

3. - Good choice - great home trial/return policy

4. - don't count out 2 smaller subs in lieu of one large sub if the room fits them better (WAG factor)

Streaming is personal preference, I love the ease of Apple TV 4K(Chromecast or roku, Nvida etc - but internal steaming options usually the worst);  1 HDMI eARC from AVR to TV, everything else runs through the AVR.

 

in your example, the Chromecast is plugged into the AVR, not the TV, but if not possible ( I don't Chromecast), the HDMI out will still be able to playback this audio through the AVR

Edited June 18 by ChickenSandwich

[Chewbacca 7828]

2 minutes ago, ChickenSandwich said:

1. - nice, why no 85? I kid I kid

2.- Marantz, Denon, Yamaha are the main players, avoid the $500 range (poor power amp)

3. - Good choice - great home trial/return policy

4. - don't count out 2 smaller subs in lieu of one large sub if the room fits them better (WAG factor)

Streaming is personal preference, I love the ease of Apple TV 4K(Chromecast or roku, Nvida etc - but internal steaming options usually the worst);  1 HDMI eARC from AVR to TV, everything else runs through the AVR.

 

in your example, the Chromecast is plugged into the AVR, not the TV, but if not possible ( I don't Chromecast), the HDMI out will still be able to playback this audio through the AVR

Our media cabinet is 90" long.  I need room on either end for the bookshelfs so they don't interfere with the screen, so 77 is the biggest that will fit comfortably.  I'm coming from a 50, so it should be plenty big for me.  Can't do 2 subs because I only have one spot for it.  Whether that's a good spot or a bad spot, that's the spot (immediately to the left of the media cabinet).

For the Chromecast, I had envisioned that it would be plugged into the TV.  Can you plug them into the AVR directly?  Might simplify the audio and I'd only need to get the video to the TV via HDMI.  I've read some folks having issues with the C3's eARC online, so plugging the Chromecast directly into the AVR would solve that.

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

Im not sure how the Chromecast is powered. If it gets it from the TV/HDMI it may not work plugged directly into the AVR. If the chromecast plugs into the wall, should work fine plugged into avr (still may work even if powered by hdmi but would be the first thing to try before plugging directly to tv).

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

6 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Our media cabinet is 90" long.  I need room on either end for the bookshelfs so they don't interfere with the screen, so 77 is the biggest that will fit comfortably.  I'm coming from a 50, so it should be plenty big for me.  Can't do 2 subs because I only have one spot for it.  Whether that's a good spot or a bad spot, that's the spot (immediately to the left of the media cabinet).

For the Chromecast, I had envisioned that it would be plugged into the TV.  Can you plug them into the AVR directly?  Might simplify the audio and I'd only need to get the video to the TV via HDMI.  I've read some folks having issues with the C3's eARC online, so plugging the Chromecast directly into the AVR would solve that.

Most TVs only have one eARC hdmi which must go to the AVR. The Chrimecast plugged into the TV in a non eARC hdmi port will still send audio to the AVR through the eARC 

 

shit is smart now

Edited June 18 by ChickenSandwich

[hobbes2702 13417]

Will the TV output an atmos signal through ARC? I know older gen TVs wouldn’t.

[Chewbacca 7828]

1 minute ago, ChickenSandwich said:

Im not sure how the Chromecast is powered. If it gets it from the TV/HDMI it may not work plugged directly into the AVR. If the chromecast plugs into the wall, should work fine plugged into avr (still may work even if powered by hdmi but would be the first thing to try before plugging directly to tv).

Chromecast has an external plug for power and plugs into the TV via HDMI.

1 minute ago, hobbes2702 said:

Will the TV output an atmos signal through ARC? I know older gen TVs wouldn’t.

It will through eARC, I believe.

[Chewbacca 7828]

2 minutes ago, ChickenSandwich said:

Most TVs only have one eARC which must go to the AVR. The Chrimecast plugged into the TV in a non eARC hdmi port will still send audio to the AVR through the eARC 

 

shit is smart now

Yep.  Plug the Chromecast into one of the other HDMI ports and use the eARC port to connect the TV to the AVR is my plan.

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

5 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

Will the TV output an atmos signal through ARC? I know older gen TVs wouldn’t.

Like an OTA broadcast? No, those are broadcast in plain 5.1 surround, but the AVR will still try to decode and send some output to all speakers. 
 

so yes and no

ex. Youtube TV only broadcasts in 2 channel audio, but the AVR will decode and still send audio to all speakers just using 2 channels of input spead to 5/7/9

5 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Chromecast has an external plug for power and plugs into the TV via HDMI.

Then plug into AvR not TV for best results 

Edited June 18 by ChickenSandwich

[thunderlounge 8406]

Couple notes on streaming.

First, the upscale performance of the appleTV to 4k dolby vision is outstanding. It also does a very good job of upscaling the audio to atmos compatible.  Beats anything roku/chromecast/fire. You won’t find better at its price point, or even close. Absolutely worth it.

Next, dig into the recent changes to roku policies, and specifically what they collect and share. They’re getting bad.

 

[Chewbacca 7828]

8 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

Couple notes on streaming.

First, the upscale performance of the appleTV to 4k dolby vision is outstanding. It also does a very good job of upscaling the audio to atmos compatible.  Beats anything roku/chromecast/fire. You won’t find better at its price point, or even close. Absolutely worth it.

Next, dig into the recent changes to roku policies, and specifically what they collect and share. They’re getting bad.

 

I don't have a single piece of Apple anything in my house.  Is that going to be an issue using AppleTV?

[thunderlounge 8406]

Nope. Won’t be a problem at all.

Edit: Model referencing earlier is the AppleTV 4k, and plug it into ethernet. 

Edited June 18 by thunderlounge

[hobbes2702 13417]

15 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

I don't have a single piece of Apple anything in my house.  Is that going to be an issue using AppleTV?

Nope. 

[nineliveslost 3000]

2 hours ago, ChickenSandwich said:

you should be able to do that, you will need to look into the AVR's amp assignment menu and make sure you are running all 9 channels and not splitting between zones (not mandatory, but optimal performance)

 

Next is speaker/surround set up -  select the surround parameters you want

Easiest way to explain is start with a typical 5.1 system; that is L/C/R, 1 sub and 2 rear surrounds.

Adding 2 front height gives 5.1.2

Adding 2 rear presence gives 5.1.4

the consensus online says 5.1.2/4 will sound better than a 7.1.2 with today's surround decoding and the way the movies are mixed from the studio

"atmos=presence for yamaha"

"rear surround" and "side surround" are not atmos but considered part of the 5. or 7. configurations

 

I would make sure all power is going to the main zone (leave zones 2-4 unpowered).

Then select the 5.1.4 surround option

Left/Center/Right

2 Front Atmos/Height or Presence (terminology diff by brand - placement-some can select if these are in ceiling, on top of L/R or on wall above L/R)

2 Rear Surround 

2 Rear Atmos/Height or Presence (again, some will have placement options to choose from)

----------------------------- update, found manual

from owners manual

set for 5.2.4 (using rear presence speakers) - pg 22

set presence speaker placement (height, overhead or dolby enabled sp*) - pg. 26

set speaker impedance (per your speakers) pg 27

speaker connection wire diagram for your set up - 7.2.2 + 1 zone - pg 32

 

web_AV17-0235_RX-V3085_2085_om_A_En_D0.pdf (yamaha.com)

@nineliveslost

You are awesome man. 

I am running 5.2.4

Edited June 18 by nineliveslost

[Chewbacca 7828]

One more question on my setup.  The AVR will be in a media cabinet with a solid door (planning on putting some kind of vent fan on the back for cooling).  Do they still do the tiny IR receivers you can plulg in so your remotes will work, or is there a better solution than that now?

[thunderlounge 8406]

Check amazon for an IR repeater. Some people even put their gear in a basement.

Cooling: look up AC Infinity

[hobbes2702 13417]

10 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

One more question on my setup.  The AVR will be in a media cabinet with a solid door (planning on putting some kind of vent fan on the back for cooling).  Do they still do the tiny IR receivers you can plulg in so your remotes will work, or is there a better solution than that now?

What type of cabinet? BDI, Salamander, etc. usually have IR friendly glass or front panels.

On my BDI my Apple TV remote controls my entire system even with all the doors closed.

[Chewbacca 7828]

2 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

What type of cabinet? BDI, Salamander, etc. usually have IR friendly glass or front panels.

On my BDI my Apple TV remote controls my entire system even with all the doors closed.

Solid wood doors.  It's this cabinet:

 

[hobbes2702 13417]

Just now, Chewbacca said:

Solid wood doors.  It's this cabinet:

 

Looks like IR repeater is your only option. Great looking cabinet though. I assume not specifically for A/V since you’re having to vent it yourself?

Edited June 19 by hobbes2702

[thunderlounge 8406]

I have a salamander, and IR passes through fine.

I was also surprised how well the apple remote does. Unless I need to mess with a specific component setting, it does well for the base configuration of atv/avr/display.

That’s plenty enough to keep me from having to teach my wife something different.

 

Edited June 19 by thunderlounge
Clarity, and ou sux.

[Chewbacca 7828]

4 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

Looks like IR repeater is your only option. Great looking cabinet though. I assume not specifically for A/V since you’re having to vent it yourself?

Yep.  Wife picked it all out.  I'm just working with what she chose.  She wasn't happy when I told her the AVR was going in there until I mentioned that it doesn't have to and can sit on top.  Turns out inside is just fine!

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

16 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

Check amazon for an IR repeater. Some people even put their gear in a basement.

Cooling: look up AC Infinity

https://a.co/d/0h85p04C

[Chewbacca 7828]

2 minutes ago, ChickenSandwich said:

https://a.co/d/0h85p04C

That is slick.  Do I still need to cut vent holes out the back of the cabinet?

[Chewbacca 7828]

I had assumed I would just install something like this on the back of the cabinet, but if I don't have to cut holes, that's better.

 

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009CNR0I6/ref=pd_pss_dp_d_1_d_sccl_2_6/139-9268094-7755965?pd_rd_w=V5HBW&content-id=amzn1.sym.427cdbb1-779c-4be6-8c9b-81ddadc2ade4&pf_rd_p=427cdbb1-779c-4be6-8c9b-81ddadc2ade4&pf_rd_r=P40JSKN5VTS1BJRM6QDS&pd_rd_wg=cwyss&pd_rd_r=9751c4f8-88a4-4eb3-930c-524af4957508&pd_rd_i=B009CNR0I6&th=1

[thunderlounge 8406]

It’s all crystal clear now. 

See, this is where my wife fucked up. When doing my duty and consulting her about what might be a good update, she said, “Whatever you think is best, I don’t know about that stuff.”

So for everything in the remodel of the living room, I steered her in a direction that supported the projector setup. 😂

Paint scheme? Oh yeah. Flooring? Yep. Ceiling fan? Damn right.

She also had similar feelings for the new network going in late winter/spring. “As long as it works, I don’t give a shit. That’s your domain.”

Yeah, she fucked up. 

[ChickenSandwich 9939]

Ac Infinity work great and are super easy to use. You can specify which direction they vent. Front/back/down/up etc. 

Both should do the jobs. 

[Chewbacca 7828]

3 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:

It’s all crystal clear now. 

See, this is where my wife fucked up. When doing my duty and consulting her about what might be a good update, she said, “Whatever you think is best, I don’t know about that stuff.”

So for everything in the remodel of the living room, I steered her in a direction that supported the projector setup. 😂

Paint scheme? Oh yeah. Flooring? Yep. Ceiling fan? Damn right.

She also had similar feelings for the new network going in late winter/spring. “As long as it works, I don’t give a shit. That’s your domain.”

Yeah, she fucked up. 

Yeah, this is our forever house so she definitely took the lead on design.  I just get to pay for everything.

[thunderlounge 8406]

7 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

That is slick.  Do I still need to cut vent holes out the back of the cabinet?

Yes. Cooler air has to replace hot air that exhausts.

No airflow like that and you’re just cycling the same air and making it warmer.