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Posted

Lol structural engineer.  You're going to wind up with 12" piles at each corner driven 10' into bedrock because of wind loads.  Seriously though, unless this thing is way up in the air, 4 x 4 posts with lag bolts and maybe a couple of cross members are enough.  Make sure the posts are down into some good concrete to spread the load.  Or get a structural and spend as much as the deer stand should cost.  How expensive is this stand?

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Posted

One of our 8’  homemade blinds.  Welded red iron base.  Wood frame blind, metal roof, DeerView magnetic windows, 4x4 legs set in red iron feet which are rebar staked to the ground and a cable deadman set in concrete.  
 

And a custom paint job.  

C1AD2200-84A1-4C88-8979-80ADA3599D02.jpeg

Posted
Lol structural engineer.  You're going to wind up with 12" piles at each corner driven 10' into bedrock because of wind loads.  Seriously though, unless this thing is way up in the air, 4 x 4 posts with lag bolts and maybe a couple of cross members are enough.  Make sure the posts are down into some good concrete to spread the load.  Or get a structural and spend as much as the deer stand should cost.  How expensive is this stand?

Something something your mom spread for my load.
Posted

Ok assholes.

What I was looking for was the load capabilities for a 2x12 cantilevered.

I want to bolt 2 2x12’s to a tree and run them out as far as possible then build a small deck on them. But metal pipes are going to work easier. Better I should say.


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Posted
6 hours ago, Gil Bang said:


Something something your mom spread for my load.

You're looking for South Austin.

 

Handcruser, it's all about how much live load you're putting on that deck.  Tree girth will actually have some bearing on it too unless it's like a 30" oak.  I'm not a structural but if you want one pm me and I can send you some names.

 

Good luck and don't die.

Posted

Mechanical.

My pocket reference book (thanks WFH) says “the American Wood Council recommends limiting cantilevers to 1/4 of the allowable span for the same joist spacing” ...so even if you throw in some tight joist spacing you’re going to have less than 4’ allowable cantilever and less than 40lb/ft^2 live load with pressure treated southern pine. Additionally, I’d think the bending moment would get you (even if you put the crown up). Your deck would sag and be uncomfortable after a few seasons in the elements.

Use metal. Heck use some quality channel shapes and you’ll have a cantilever deck that’ll support a 1000kw generator and day tank, for a mini-split AC, WiFi router, and beer fridge.

Side note: My favorite blind as a teen was a loosely cobbled together deck from discarded pallet wood nailed to upper branch of a cottonwood tree precariously rooted to a 10’ sandstone and gypsum cliff.

*sniffs* “yeah, that oughtta hold’er”

Posted

Thanks!

 

Metal pipes is what I’ve decided to go with. I don’t need huge extension, but do need more than what a 2x12 can provide.

 

Cows on the property kind of dictate what we can put up. Snakes in trees freak me out.

 

 

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Posted
15 hours ago, Handcruser said:

Ok assholes.

What I was looking for was the load capabilities for a 2x12 cantilevered.

I want to bolt 2 2x12’s to a tree and run them out as far as possible then build a small deck on them. But metal pipes are going to work easier. Better I should say.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

2 x 12 means a 4 foot cantilever You need an awful strong damn boat connection to just cantilever a 2 x 12 out from that typically a cantilever can only be a quarter of the length of the member you're trying to cantilever 12 foot 2 x 12 means a 4 foot cantilever

Posted
9 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

2 x 12 means a 4 foot cantilever You need an awful strong damn boat connection to just cantilever a 2 x 12 out from that typically a cantilever can only be a quarter of the length of the member you're trying to cantilever 12 foot 2 x 12 means a 4 foot cantilever

Bolt connection?

Three feet?  12/4=3.

BSME holla.

Posted
26 minutes ago, TwiceHorn said:

Bolt connection?

Three feet?  12/4=3.

BSME holla.

Yeah I doubt there's any kind a bolt connection that's gonna allow you to cantilever a 2 x 12 off of a tree and yeah 3 feet, fucking hate math

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Posted (edited)

Not sure whether to create my own thread or if this will suffice: are there any smaller structural engineers on this board (Austin)? Maybe a solo flyer or smaller office? I am starting a design-build company and would like to work with someone who will work with me over time as I build my company. HMU if anyone is interested in talking.

Edited by Longhorn_Fan68
Posted
On 8/28/2020 at 8:02 PM, deadshank said:

One of our 8’  homemade blinds.  Welded red iron base.  Wood frame blind, metal roof, DeerView magnetic windows, 4x4 legs set in red iron feet which are rebar staked to the ground and a cable deadman set in concrete.  
 

And a custom paint job.  

C1AD2200-84A1-4C88-8979-80ADA3599D02.jpeg

Is it still hunting when you're using that?  Is there a bed and a La-Z Boy in there?  And a cooler full of beer?

Posted
1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:

Is it still hunting when you're using that?  Is there a bed and a La-Z Boy in there?  And a cooler full of beer?

You should see how he structurally stabilized the stripper pole. Ingenious.

Posted
10 hours ago, Longhorn_Fan68 said:

Not sure whether to create my own thread or if this will suffice: are there any smaller structural engineers on this board (Austin)? Maybe a solo flyer or smaller office? I am starting a design-build company and would like to work with someone who will work with me over time as I build my company. HMU if anyone is interested in talking.

So, I'm in California, as you undoubtedly know by now. 

Not sure if it's true in Texas, but in CA, you almost certainly could get by with a Civil Engineer.  Out here at least, a civil can do ALL the structural work on any building up to 4 stories, with the exception of a Hospital (IIRC).  

There are more of them, and they tend to work cheaper.  Think family doctor vs. board-certified specialist.   

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Posted
1 hour ago, Gil Bang said:

So, I'm in California, as you undoubtedly know by now. 

Not sure if it's true in Texas, but in CA, you almost certainly could get by with a Civil Engineer.  Out here at least, a civil can do ALL the structural work on any building up to 4 stories, with the exception of a Hospital (IIRC).  

There are more of them, and they tend to work cheaper.  Think family doctor vs. board-certified specialist.   

Intredasting. Hadn't considered that. Will. 

Posted
7 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

So, I'm in California, as you undoubtedly know by now. 

Not sure if it's true in Texas, but in CA, you almost certainly could get by with a Civil Engineer.  Out here at least, a civil can do ALL the structural work on any building up to 4 stories, with the exception of a Hospital (IIRC).  

There are more of them, and they tend to work cheaper.  Think family doctor vs. board-certified specialist.   

Oh boy… as a civil specializing in environmental and utilities I couldn’t disagree more.  A civil MAY be qualified to do some structural engineering and if they’re ethical, should advise you if it’s beyond their expertise, but some won’t.  Structural engineers are the best bang for the Buck you’ll find in my experience.  They can crank out designs so much more quickly and price efficiently because of their familiarity with standard situations.

I would rely on a referral from a civil I trust but out of the hundreds of civil engineers who are not structural I would trust maybe four or five to design more than a simple slab on grade or  basic four foot retaining wall.

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