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Hey campers, let's talk about removing sheet vinyl, and backer board

Onboard 2.0

By Onboard 2.0
in Can You Help Me With This?

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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Starting on the renovation projects at my dads circa 1975, 2 story, Colonial box with hardwood floors throughout the house.  The first project is going to be renovating a huge, wasted space, laundry room by creating a mud room, full bathroom, lockers for kids, a washer & dryer space, new brick stoop, and a side entry door.

The floor is currently 70's sheet vinyl over 1/4" backer board over traditional 2 1/4" strip, oak flooring.  

The question is do you Remove the vinyl, and backer board, and probably have to refinish the floor, (depending on how the backer board was installed) or do you Leave it in place, and just install waterproof, Luxury vinyl, plank tile at about $450, and about 3 hours of our time??  It would probably would cost $400 or more to refinish the floor it's about a 13' x 17' space. 

Seems easier to just install new flooring over the existing sheet vinyl.  The luxury vinyl tile products are not bad at all IMO, (I'm typically a natural materials advocate, but this is a flip) and we want to knock out each project quickly, with as few trades involved as possible.

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Gil Bang

Gil Bang 26240

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There's a really good chance that the existing sheet vinyl contains asbestos.   Encapsulating it under plank vinyl is the cheapest and easiest way to handle that.  Also, since you don't "know" that it contains asbestos, you don't have to disclose it's presence, and if it's under new flooring, ain't nobody gonna test it. 

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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9 minutes ago, deadshank said:

Do the overlay.  Vinyl in a mud / wet areas is a good idea.   Nothing more annoying than cupped hardwood floors. 

Yeah, that was my original thought along with not knowing what the wood flooring would be like after killing yourself pulling up all that underlayment.  The LVT is PRO core plus so it's a waterproof flooring (allegedly). Gonna put the washer in a pan, and a drain into the crawlspace for extra protection, along with stainless steel lines.

 

Superbowl Sunday:

Frame a full bath, install outlet, and switch boxes, hang sheetrock on one stud face, prime the lovely 70's stained pine baseboard, interior doors, crown, and door & window casing, and lay the LVT floor...  that's the plan the brother, and I have.  

That fucker better snap to it when I give marching orders....the sniveling pup.

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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24 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:Superbowl Sunday:

Frame a full bath, install outlet, and switch boxes, hang sheetrock on one stud face, prime the lovely 70's stained pine baseboard, interior doors, crown, and door & window casing, and lay the LVT floor...  that's the plan the brother, and I have.  

That fucker better snap to it when I give marching orders....the sniveling pup.

Y’all are some lazy-assed slobs with no gumption. 
 

Good luck.  Post pics. 

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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37 minutes ago, Gil Bang said:

as long as you caulk the shit out of the baseboard.  You don't want water getting under the vinyl. 

Yeah another good tip (had that one planned already).  It's easy to do while the shoe moulding has been pulled up. The pan is to be the big insurance plan though.

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deadshank

deadshank 24654

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15 hours ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Yeah, that was my original thought along with not knowing what the wood flooring would be like after killing yourself pulling up all that underlayment.  The LVT is PRO core plus so it's a waterproof flooring (allegedly). Gonna put the washer in a pan, and a drain into the crawlspace for extra protection, along with stainless steel lines.

 

Superbowl Sunday:

Frame a full bath, install outlet, and switch boxes, hang sheetrock on one stud face, prime the lovely 70's stained pine baseboard, interior doors, crown, and door & window casing, and lay the LVT floor...  that's the plan the brother, and I have.  

That fucker better snap to it when I give marching orders....the sniveling pup.

You done yet?

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Onboard 2.0

Onboard 2.0 9083

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34 minutes ago, NeverMarryAStripper said:

Personally I think a tortoise shell faux finish is too much for a confined space like a mud room.  Also, I would never  do it in a house I was flipping.  It would be much better to stick with light neutral colors.

Well yeah. I was pushing a sarcasm vibe out there.  Pretty straight forward design and finishes: LVT dark oak, plank flooring, White trim, and walls (maybe a cool grey instead of white walls) polished nickel bathroom sink, shower faucets, and bathroom accessories, white fixtures, oil rubbed bronze door hardware (matching the rest of the house).  

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