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Big Bend - Alpine - Marfa - Fort Davis


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  • 2 weeks later...

Staying in Lajitas right now. We did the state park hikes today and were literally the only people there at all of them. The state park gets a bad, bizarre rap. It’s fun, easy and beautiful. We have little kids and they love it. On top of all of that, the trip on 170 to Presidio has to be one of the most beautiful in the country. Once we left the Hoodoos today, we went west to Presidio and ate greasy spoon Mexican at El Patio, got gas, and went back to the resort for the pool and drinks. That’s a fun, low stress, heavy activity day. 

Tomorrow we’re doing the old lost mine hike in the national park and then buying tacos from the Mexicans at the border nearby who usually enable the donkeys to bring Americans across for lunch but have been cut off lately due to corona and politics. 

This whole area is terrific for Texans. We came for the first time last year and I wish I had been here years before. On that note, and I’m a terrible golfer, the Lajitas course has to be the best in Texas. It’s unbelievable. 

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1. when the hell are they gonna open the crossing into Boquillas back up? I need some Falcon's food and drink and Park Bar tequila.

2. I've been to Presidio once. decided to go to Ojinaga just to party a little. walked about a mile past the border checkpoint and there wasn't shit so we turned around. where the fuck is everything?

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  • 1 month later...
On 7/4/2021 at 7:29 AM, GreenspointTexas said:

This may sound like overkill, but ive planned all of my last 3 trips to the Big Bend region on the moon phases. New moon or gtfo

 

trust me, made a huge difference when I stayed in a bubble in Terlingua during the freeze

Arg, dammit.  Two days before I go in October is a full moon.  Oh well, it will still be awesome i'm sure.

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  • 2 months later...

I’m bumping this thread.  I’ll be in the park in two weeks and Boy #1 and I are staying at Chisos Mountain Lodge.  I’m staying in Marathon for two days, the park for two nights, and Marfa for two before flying out of El Paso. 
 

Talk to me about the South Rim hike.  I’m pretty fit for a 48 year old, the boy is in college and not fat.  Which direction of the loop do I take?  Should we get up at zero dark thirty? How hard is it going to be in December, assuming it’s not a hard freeze or something?

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Itll be fine. Def get on the trail as the sun is rising tho. Hike is a solid 8 hrs without stopping much. Over 9 hrs with lunch and pics and such. Go up pinnacles first imo, as it was easier doing the switchbacks for me and the wife at the beginning of the hike. 
 

youll likely be sore the next day. Its without a doubt the best hike in Texas tho

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2 hours ago, Bateshorn said:

I’m bumping this thread.  I’ll be in the park in two weeks and Boy #1 and I are staying at Chisos Mountain Lodge.  I’m staying in Marathon for two days, the park for two nights, and Marfa for two before flying out of El Paso. 
 

Talk to me about the South Rim hike.  I’m pretty fit for a 48 year old, the boy is in college and not fat.  Which direction of the loop do I take?  Should we get up at zero dark thirty? How hard is it going to be in December, assuming it’s not a hard freeze or something?

 

1 hour ago, GreenspointTexas said:

Itll be fine. Def get on the trail as the sun is rising tho. Hike is a solid 8 hrs without stopping much. Over 9 hrs with lunch and pics and such. Go up pinnacles first imo, as it was easier doing the switchbacks for me and the wife at the beginning of the hike. 
 

youll likely be sore the next day. Its without a doubt the best hike in Texas tho

This.  It's a tough hike, but certainly doable in one day.  I did it as an overnight, which I recommend, both for rest at the rim and the sunrise is one of the cooler things I've ever seen.  Will DM you some more info @Bateshorn

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Overnight gets you an easier pair of hikes and, more importantly, the sunrise on the rim.  There's multiple photos with pics in this thread or the camping/backpacking thread.  

Lost Mine trail can be a hassle with the lack of parking but the views at the end of that trail are some of the best in the park.  

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19 hours ago, Your Mom said:

Overnight gets you an easier pair of hikes and, more importantly, the sunrise on the rim.  There's multiple photos with pics in this thread or the camping/backpacking thread.  

Lost Mine trail can be a hassle with the lack of parking but the views at the end of that trail are some of the best in the park.  

Did lost mine a couple weeks ago.  It was a stunning view.

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3 minutes ago, miguelito said:

I will say, though, that drive is a bit like a roller coaster.  Lots of small hills and tight curves.  You can't go too fast in some areas, and if some of your passengers are prone to carsickness, be careful. 

We'll be fine.  I am going to be missing my manual GTI, tho.

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On 6/21/2021 at 7:24 PM, GreenspointTexas said:

We were in Big Bend during the Feb freeze. Stayed in the Basecamp bubble. Snuck into Balmorhea for a quick pic

e039795efd2341a2551a3d0ecc4a38ff.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

and you didn't jump in? Come on man, that is a once in a lifetime opportunity.

the water would have felt warm.... until you get out.

 

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Also, the drive from Alpine to Ft. Davis to Balmorhea is fantastic. Especially the second half. Going north is better. Don't speed tho.

As is the loop from Ft. Davis to the Observatory and counter-clock wise back around back to Ft. Davis. Some good picnic spots on that loop.

 

edit: If you are staying two days in Marfa (which is about a day and a half too much imo), you can access the observatory loop from Marfa pretty easily (check a map). There is also a nice drive from Marfa down to 170 on a back road which turns to gravel (probably need high clearance but not 4X). I can't remember the name of the road, but it goes through open ranch land. Absolutely incredible. Look at a map. If you come back up (north) that way, you bypass the Border Patrol checkpoint on 67(?) that is just south of Marfa, and they may pull you over in Marfa or thereabouts, to "check your citizen ship" or really just to show you who is boss.

 

 

Edited by High Plains Drifter
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On 12/5/2021 at 12:23 PM, Bateshorn said:

I’m bumping this thread.  I’ll be in the park in two weeks and Boy #1 and I are staying at Chisos Mountain Lodge.  I’m staying in Marathon for two days, the park for two nights, and Marfa for two before flying out of El Paso. 
 

Talk to me about the South Rim hike.  I’m pretty fit for a 48 year old, the boy is in college and not fat.  Which direction of the loop do I take?  Should we get up at zero dark thirty? How hard is it going to be in December, assuming it’s not a hard freeze or something?

i've backpacked and overnighted, as well as done it in a day trip.  it's a nice, challenging day hike.  you'll feel good about a beer when you get back.  i would go up the switchbacks first and back down through the meadow.

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17 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

Also, the drive from Alpine to Ft. Davis to Balmorhea is fantastic. Especially the second half. Going north is better. Don't speed tho.

As is the loop from Ft. Davis to the Observatory and counter-clock wise back around back to Ft. Davis. Some good picnic spots on that loop.

 

edit: If you are staying two days in Marfa (which is about a day and a half too much imo), you can access the observatory loop from Marfa pretty easily (check a map). There is also a nice drive from Marfa down to 170 on a back road which turns to gravel (probably need high clearance but not 4X). I can't remember the name of the road, but it goes through open ranch land. Absolutely incredible. Look at a map. If you come back up (north) that way, you bypass the Border Patrol checkpoint on 67(?) that is just south of Marfa, and they may pull you over in Marfa or thereabouts, to "check your citizen ship" or really just to show you who is boss.

 

 

Yeah, the biggest thing I’ve taken away from this thread, outside of the excellent South Rim advice, is to spend my time in Marfa….not in Marfa.  I think I’m going to do Fort Davis as a day trip, come back through Alpine, and then check out the Marfa tourist traps on my way out town heading for El Paso. 

Edited by Bateshorn
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2 hours ago, thrillhammer said:

i've backpacked and overnighted, as well as done it in a day trip.  it's a nice, challenging day hike.  you'll feel good about a beer when you get back.  i would go up the switchbacks first and back down through the meadow.

I did South Rim with a 70 lb load and is was brutal (same route as @thrillhammer described).  Highly recommend packing light or make your boy carry everything.  

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35 minutes ago, Bateshorn said:

Yeah, the biggest thing I’ve taken away from this thread, outside of the excellent South Rim advice, is to spend my time in Marfa….not in Marfa.  I think I’m going to do Fort Davis as a day trip, come back through Alpine, and then check out the Marfa tourist traps on my way out town heading for El Paso. 

 

There is a guided tour you can go on of the permanent and semi-permanent Donald Judd art installations. IIRC, it takes about 3 hours in the morning, and costs 10 bucks per. Its worth it for no other reason than to make fun of the hipsters. I believe reservations are required but we just showed up and somebody had cancelled or didn't show so we got in. (I wouldn't count on that happening everytime tho.)

Linkypoo:

https://chinati.org/

Marfa is a quiet place, and you can walk everywhere (except to the Prada store (insert jerk off gif here)). There are a few fancy restaurants, and a cool bar or two.

But overall, unless you are really an art nut, your time is best spent hiking, scenic driving, or star parties at the observatory.

 

 

One thing nobody ever mentions on these threads is the canoeing on the Rio Grande. You can rent canoes and do a day paddle on the river at any outfitter. Colorado Canyon through the state park is a nice, easy paddle/float with spectacular views that even a beginner could handle.

If you know what you are doing, you could paddle through the canyons in the national park and camp overnight. Depending on the flow, you might have to navigate rapids however.

 

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31 minutes ago, GhostOfTomJoad said:

Glad this was bumped as Mrs GOTJ will be in Lajitas Dec 17-21 for our first trip to BB. Got a condo right by the resort and we'll plan on doing some moderate trails since she had foot surgery last spring. Really looking forward to this.

 

If you are a golfer, play a round at Lajitas. Most scenic course I've ever played. Might be a little chilly in Dec though.

 

For dinner, try Chili Peppers in Study Butte.

For a fancy resort, the food at Lajitas is meh, imo.

 

edit: if you have a fire pit at your condo, take some firewood with you (or take small fire pit if you have the room in your truck). There isn't any to be found in those parts, and buying it would be expensive. Sitting around a fire on a cold desert night under the stars with a beverage of choice is sublime in Big Bend Country.

 

 

Edited by High Plains Drifter
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Great tips, [mention=1559]High Plains Drifter[/mention]. And yes, I'm a golfer and would LOVE to play Black Jack's Crossing but that's going to have to wait until a return trip with some golfing buddies (plans are already in the works). This is my wife's birthday getaway so she's pretty much driving the agenda.
The condo we're staying at is a vrbo a few hundred feet west of the resort. It's fully furnished with a full kitchen, propane grill & fire pit, plus a hot tub. Everything but a TV which is perfectly fine with us. Since we're not actually staying at the resort, we only have limited access to the restaurant and pub, although the bakery and pizza place seem to be open to all. 
Has anyone done the guided horse rides offered by Lajitas Stables? They have two locations, one in Lajitas and one in Study Butte with some pretty scenic rides available. My wife is a very experienced rider and she's looked at their site, but doesn't know if it's worth committing 3-4 hours if the tours aren't worthwhile.
 
 

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21 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

Also, the drive from Alpine to Ft. Davis to Balmorhea is fantastic. Especially the second half. Going north is better. Don't speed tho.

As is the loop from Ft. Davis to the Observatory and counter-clock wise back around back to Ft. Davis. Some good picnic spots on that loop.

 

edit: If you are staying two days in Marfa (which is about a day and a half too much imo), you can access the observatory loop from Marfa pretty easily (check a map). There is also a nice drive from Marfa down to 170 on a back road which turns to gravel (probably need high clearance but not 4X). I can't remember the name of the road, but it goes through open ranch land. Absolutely incredible. Look at a map. If you come back up (north) that way, you bypass the Border Patrol checkpoint on 67(?) that is just south of Marfa, and they may pull you over in Marfa or thereabouts, to "check your citizen ship" or really just to show you who is boss.

 

 

I saved this from an old post @Hornius Emeritus made 8 years ago when I made my first trip to that area (and now go back every chance I get).  He has been there a lot and this is what he said about that drive.  It is true, all of it:

Also, while in Marfa, take FM 2810 southwest toward Ruidosa, Texas.  The black top will end and at that point it becomes the Pinto Canyon road. In my opinion, it's the most beautiful drive in Texas.  It's rough but traversible with a two-wheel drive vehicle.  When you hit Ruidosa, take a right on 170 and go a few miles to the Chinati Hot Springs.  I think it might be the most remote location in the continental United States. The hot springs themselves are wonderful and relaxing. If you can, stay the night in one of the cabins. Not fancy but clean and comfortable.  There is nothing better than submerging yourself in the warm, natural waters on a perfectly clear west Texas night and looking up at the stars.

Here is the rest of what he posted about Big Bend area:

 

I've been out to Big Bend 21 times and just returned from 10 days photographing a 20,000 acre ranch near Marfa for a realtor.   I prefer some of the more off-the-beaten trail places, the lesser known spots.   In Marfa, if you can manage to hit Borunda's Bar and Grill you'll be eating Tex Mex cooked by the descendants of the very first Tex-Mex restaurant in history, the old Borunda Cafe. Their burgers are great, too. The only thing is that they don't allow kids on account of it being  a bar.  It's mostly where locals hang out but they are very friendly to non-Marfaites, which is something that can't be said for every place in town.   Also, as has been noted, La Kiva in Terlingua can't be recommended highly enough.  There's really no place like it in the world.  Finally, the swimming pool at Balmorhea is one of my very favorite spots in Texas. 

While in Big Bend, make sure you take Grapevine Hills road out to the famous balancing rock.  Once you park your car it's a pretty easy hike of maybe 3/4 of a mile or a mile out to the rock itself.  It's level until you get to the rocks at the very end and then you have to do some scrambling, but it is super easy. I'm the world's most uncoordinated person and have no trouble at all.  Every time I visit it I wonder what combination of forces coalesced to leave that rock right where it is.

Also, when you are entering Big Bend National Park from Marathon, right at the park's entrance you are in the pass that was the old Comanche trail. The Comanches would come sweeping down off the plains right through that pass as they were on their way to raid Mexico.  Get out of your car and reflect upon the fact that, less than 150 years ago, Comanches were riding their horses right through that very spot.  If it is at night, it's really easy to imagine them training through under a Comanche moon. You can almost hear the sounds of the horses.

What else?  If you bring your passports, you can now cross into Boquillas, Mexico and visit the little bar there. It's a total blast, completely safe, and for the longest time after 9/11 crossing the border was not allowed. They just re-opened the crossing earlier this year.  When you get across the river some Mexican folks will ask you if you want to rent the burros and ride into town.  It's an easy walk and I always walk but, if I'm with somebody else, I make sure to rent the burros because there is nothing like the classic photos that you will take of your friends and family riding the burros into Boquillas.  I took a photo of my friend Alyssa on a burro about 25 years ago and gave it to her as a present and she has it framed in her office. She told me that people ask about it all the time.  

The classic hike is, of course, the South Rim Trail, but it's too long for kids.  You can get most of the same impact by hiking the Lost Mine Trail, which has a trailhead and parking area right on the main road into the Chisos.  It's a pretty easy hike and I think a six year old could do it but you may end up carrying him/her part of the way and there may be some complaining.  I would set it up in advance as a "big adventure that only "big boys" can do and I think it will be okay. The payoff, at the end, is completely worth it.  I think that kids standing out there on those rocks are going to be absolutely amazed.  A lot of that is probably going to he how you prep the wee lad and set his expectations.  

Of course, you have to go to Santa Elena Canyon.  That's pretty much a given. The road that leads to Santa Elena Canyon is the Ross Maxwell scenic drive.  Along the way,  stop at the Homer Wilson Ranch overlook (it might be called the Blue Mountain overlook ... I can't remember) and look at the old ranch house. It's a real easy hike down to the ranch (takes about 15 or 20 minutes) and the house itself is fascinating.  If you look out back of the house, you can still find the remnants of the old corral.   Continuing on toward Santa Elena Canyon, the road passes a right turn that takes you to the Burro Mesa pour off, another easy hike and also worth seeing.   After that, head on toward Santa Elena Canyon but make sure you stop at Castolon. The abandoned structures that dot that old agricultural community and the still-occupied ones are worth a stop.  When you get to the canyon, make sure you hide your valuables or take them with you. I've been out there pretty much every time I go to Big Bend and never had a problem but a buddy did get broken into. There are warning signs telling you that. Heed them.  As I said, it's only a remote possibility that anything would happen but it is possible. 

The river is REALLY up right now. I wish I had had the foresight to make reservations for a rafting trip.  Would have been incredible. 

Make sure you bookmark this link. It tells you what the weather is going to be like, how much rain has fallen (and where), and what roads are passable and which are not by two-wheel drive vehicles:

Finally, I'm not sure exactly when you're going, but avoid the first weekend in November. There are two huge chili cookoffs in Terlingua at that time and it's rather a zoo.  The cook-offs themselves are an enormous amount of fun but probably not so much for kids. 

I may revisit this thread and post more but right now I've got quite a few prints  to print and it's time to get on them.

 

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Yes to all that. Pinto Canyon road is the drive from Marfa I was referring to. I would take something with some clearance (a pickup or something like a subaru outback) although you don't need 4X.

 

I will also add the following easy walk and short hike for those with kids or who just don't want an extreme hike:

1) Near the parking for the Boquillas crossing is a trailhead that goes down to the river. After a very short walk, you end up at the entrance to Boquillas Canyon. Just as scenic as the more famous Santa Elena Canyon, but always been fewer people. Once upon a time, The Singing Mexican, for a dollar or two or a bottle of water would serenade you at the canyon entrance, but he passed some years back.

I'm not sure what the name of the trail is, but if you ask for the trail to the entrance to Boquillas canyon, any park employee would know what you are talking about.

 

2) There is also a fairly short hike to a water fall off of the road to Santa Elena canyon. A waterfall in the desert, that pours off from the basin. I don't know what the flow is like now after years of drought, but I've been there where the falls were cranking so hard, they rivaled the falls at Hamilton's Pool. As you get closer, you can't see the falls but you can hear them, and if you are paying attention, the air gets more humid (and cooler in the summer) as you approach, and the vegetation changes. An excellent example of a microhabitat, if you are a nature nerd. This might be better in the early fall after the summer rains (assuming it ever rains again down there).

Note that this is not the Burro Mesa pour off mentioned in your post.

Again, I don't remember the names off the top of my head, but any park employee will know what you are talking about.

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2 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

If you are a golfer, play a round at Lajitas. Most scenic course I've ever played. Might be a little chilly in Dec though.

 

For dinner, try Chili Peppers in Study Butte.

For a fancy resort, the food at Lajitas is meh, imo.

 

edit: if you have a fire pit at your condo, take some firewood with you (or take small fire pit if you have the room in your truck). There isn't any to be found in those parts, and buying it would be expensive. Sitting around a fire on a cold desert night under the stars with a beverage of choice is sublime in Big Bend Country.

 

 

you got that right.  one of the travesties of the national park is no campfires.  that's one thing the state park has over it.  great stars, great fire, great beverage and you got yourself the vacation of a lifetime.

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This.  It's a tough hike, but certainly doable in one day.  I did it as an overnight, which I recommend, both for rest at the rim and the sunrise is one of the cooler things I've ever seen.  Will DM you some more info [mention=1774]Bateshorn[/mention]

Doable, but read this first

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2 hours ago, LCHorn said:

I did South Rim with a 70 lb load and is was brutal (same route as @thrillhammer described).  Highly recommend packing light or make your boy carry everything.  

Def. Day hike. Boy #1 will be on a small hydration pack, enough for his food, water and layers.  I’m on a slightly larger day pack.  I’m long past my days of hauling loads (I can barely remember Philmont). 
 

I just looked and Chinti will be closed both days I’m in Marfa. In fact, it looks like everything is basically closed Sunday-Tuesday. Pro tip for future people reading my bump: Marfa seems extremely hit or miss on when stuff is open. 

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2 hours ago, Bateshorn said:

Def. Day hike. Boy #1 will be on a small hydration pack, enough for his food, water and layers.  I’m on a slightly larger day pack.  I’m long past my days of hauling loads (I can barely remember Philmont). 
 

I just looked and Chinti will be closed both days I’m in Marfa. In fact, it looks like everything is basically closed Sunday-Tuesday. Pro tip for future people reading my bump: Marfa seems extremely hit or miss on when stuff is open. 

Make reservations now for dinner at Jetts or St. George's for dinner if you're there Sunday-Tuesday.  Otherwise you might be eating at DQ.  Or drive to Ft Davis and get a bite at the drug store.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/7/2021 at 2:10 PM, Bateshorn said:

 Marfa seems extremely hit or miss on when stuff is open. 

That’s because it is.  All the towns out there are like that but Marfa takes the prize going away.

Most overhyped place in Texas imho.

Edited by Cajun
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3 hours ago, Cajun said:

That’s because it is.  All the towns out there are like that but Marfa takes the prize going away.

Most overhyped place in Texas imho.

I like it for about two nights when we go out there for a week.  The new hotel makes it better.  Love the bar.  We spend most of our time in rentals around Terlingua or Lajitas.

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Anyone have a favorite specific primitive campsite in Big Bend Ranch State Park?  Only looking at the sites that are way off the paved road.  The kind of place you need 4WD to get to and won't see another human being for a couple days.  Not looking for condos, AirBnbs, or group campsites.  

GF and I are trying to plan a quick trip out there next week.  BBRSP is our preference so we can have a campfire each night.  Been to both parks quite a few times and know the area well.  Last time we were out there we camped at site La Mota 1.   It fit the bill, good views, isolated, about 2 hours from the pavement.  It's available when we want to go next week but if anyone else has a favorite spot out there I'd like to hear about it.  Rincon, Fresno Canyon, and all the Papalote sites are also available.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spent a week out there after Christmas. Took our dogs so we didn't go into the natl park. Stayed 15 miles north of Terlingua... hiked several miles of Terlingua creek and did the hikes in the state park that allow dogs. Stopped at seminole canyon on the way back to austin, always wanted to go there. Great trip.

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  • 1 month later...

Headed to the area next week for the first time in 20 years, traveling with wife and a 13 year old. Staying at a house in Marfa (sucks, got it) for a week.  Planning on two full days in the park, hitting Boquillas, Rio Grande village, lost mine, balanced rock and Santa Elena. Dinner at Starlight, the Gage, and Reata in Alpine.  We have reservations for the observatory, and are planning to spend a day doing the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad.
 

Other suggestions?  Thought about rafting, but looks like the river is low. Would Balmorhea pool be worth it in March (highs in the upper 70s).
 

Dining recommendations?  Looks like several of the Marfa restaurants recommended in this thread are closed. Shopping and galleries for the wife?

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9 hours ago, EdTomBell said:

Headed to the area next week for the first time in 20 years, traveling with wife and a 13 year old. Staying at a house in Marfa (sucks, got it) for a week.  Planning on two full days in the park, hitting Boquillas, Rio Grande village, lost mine, balanced rock and Santa Elena. Dinner at Starlight, the Gage, and Reata in Alpine.  We have reservations for the observatory, and are planning to spend a day doing the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad.
 

Other suggestions?  Thought about rafting, but looks like the river is low. Would Balmorhea pool be worth it in March (highs in the upper 70s).
 

Dining recommendations?  Looks like several of the Marfa restaurants recommended in this thread are closed. Shopping and galleries for the wife?

I haven't been myself, but I've heard great things about the Brick Vault Brewery in Marathon. It might be a cool place for a beer before or after dinner at Gage. 

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