Big Bend - Alpine - Marfa - Fort Davis

[High Plains Drifter 11050]

 

Just an fyi, I was down there a few weeks back, and the Rio Grande in the Big Bend area is cranking right now. Water flow is at levels that I have only seen maybe once before. If you have never rafted or kayaked on the Rio Grande in the Big Bend before,  now is the time to do it. I wouldn't advise canoeing unless you really know what you are doing.

 

 

[4th and 5 4914]

We are staying at Basecamp Terlingua in a bubble in October for 4 days. This thread has a lot of info, almost too much to sort out. What are the main hikes to see the best of the area?

We are not camping, we are not "hikers" really but we've done a few, like Zion. Not trying to get hurt or die of thirst or exposure before I play 18 at Lajitas. 

What are 3 or 4 trails the average 50 year old can handle to see the best of the area?

Thanks in advance.

 

[UnivTex34 1763]

44 minutes ago, 4th and 5 said:

We are staying at Basecamp Terlingua in a bubble in October for 4 days. This thread has a lot of info, almost too much to sort out. What are the main hikes to see the best of the area?

We are not camping, we are not "hikers" really but we've done a few, like Zion. Not trying to get hurt or die of thirst or exposure before I play 18 at Lajitas. 

What are 3 or 4 trails the average 50 year old can handle to see the best of the area?

Thanks in advance.

 

Lost Mine trail if it's open. It got damaged by the heavy rains, so hopefully it will be open when you are there. My fav non-rim hike in the park.

[GreenspointTexas 9649]

1 hour ago, 4th and 5 said:

We are staying at Basecamp Terlingua in a bubble in October for 4 days. This thread has a lot of info, almost too much to sort out. What are the main hikes to see the best of the area?

We are not camping, we are not "hikers" really but we've done a few, like Zion. Not trying to get hurt or die of thirst or exposure before I play 18 at Lajitas. 

What are 3 or 4 trails the average 50 year old can handle to see the best of the area?

Thanks in advance.

 

Closed canyon, Lost Mine, Santa Elena Canyon, Window trail. 

[3shot 139]

1 hour ago, GreenspointTexas said:

Closed canyon, Lost Mine, Santa Elena Canyon, Window trail. 

These are great suggestions.  I'll add Indian Head Trail (very close to Terlingua; short; Petroglyphs) and if it's not too hot or you are willing to get there early, The Chimneys Trail or Mule Ears.  Any of these 3 will give you a bit of the desert experience.  If you don't want to do a longer desert hike like Chimneys or Mule Ears, you could check out a few of the shorter hikes and sites along Ross Maxwell Scenic Dr., like Lower Burro Mesa Pour-off Trail.

Also, if you are going to hike Closed Canyon in the state park and you're a fan of Fandango, you have to go find the "Dom" rock and get a picture.  It's close to the road.   The Hoodoos Trail is also worth checking out if you are going to Closed Canyon because it's not too far from there and also a short hike.

[fuggled 576]

2 hours ago, 4th and 5 said:

We are staying at Basecamp Terlingua in a bubble in October for 4 days. This thread has a lot of info, almost too much to sort out. What are the main hikes to see the best of the area?

We are not camping, we are not "hikers" really but we've done a few, like Zion. Not trying to get hurt or die of thirst or exposure before I play 18 at Lajitas. 

What are 3 or 4 trails the average 50 year old can handle to see the best of the area?

Thanks in advance.

 

The other suggestions are good, but Lost Mine is partially closed right now and Santa Elena is also closed.  So backup plans are good.  We did Upper Burro Mesa Pour-off a couple years ago with my 6 year old and I thought it was a great hike.  You don't have the elevation gain like you do on the mountain trails.  After the first 1/4 mile or so, you drop down into a canyon for most of the hike which provides a lot of shelter from the sun/heat.

[Biff Tannen 45691]

On 9/14/2022 at 1:13 PM, RollLeft said:

Anyone every see Mt. Lions while visiting?

 

Holy shit that's awesome

[deft 6856]

We are staying at Basecamp Terlingua in a bubble in October for 4 days. This thread has a lot of info, almost too much to sort out. What are the main hikes to see the best of the area?
We are not camping, we are not "hikers" really but we've done a few, like Zion. Not trying to get hurt or die of thirst or exposure before I play 18 at Lajitas. 
What are 3 or 4 trails the average 50 year old can handle to see the best of the area?
Thanks in advance.
 

Here’s the advice you didn’t ask for: basecamp Terlingua.

Don’t fuck around and lower the mini split ac any lower than what they recommend. It’ll get hot in that sumbitch ina hurry any time of year if the cover is off and the ac isn’t working.

Bring bourbon.

Don’t take the cover off the bubble until laaaaate in the afternoon. You can’t get it back on and it turns it into an ez bake fartbox in a hurry.

The liquor store around the corner has more bourbon.

If you’re staying at the new 10 bubble unit, the pool sucks. There’s no filtration that I could notice and the water is murky. Of course, the old bubbles don’t have a pool unless you stay in the two room unit slightly farther from Terlingua.

Watch out for pink coachwhips crossing the roof in front of the liquor store when you go for more bourbon. I’ve seen two on as many trips right there.

Make sure you try opening the door at least once when the airlock is open. It’s fun.

I didn’t say the bourbon selection was great.

[RollLeft 5045]

19 hours ago, Biff Tannen said:

Holy shit that's awesome

If you turn up the volume you can hear the moans by the buck after he is taken down.  

[4th and 5 4914]

Live ….from top of Lost Mine to the Window

 

 

[Your Mom 4806]

What a perfect time to be out there with this weather. 

[deft 6856]

How’s your bubble been? It’s a waning crescent right now so you should have some pretty good views

[Wally Pryor 5261]

1 hour ago, Your Mom said:

What a perfect time to be out there with this weather. 

No kidding. 70 and crystal clear. 

[4th and 5 4914]

More

[4th and 5 4914]

3 hours ago, deft said:

How’s your bubble been? It’s a waning crescent right now so you should have some pretty good views

Bubble Terlingua is awesome. Right outside the park in Study Butte. Just got the hot tubs installed a few days ago. Weber grills, we made sone bad ass filets and taters last night. No moon means amazing stargazing. We brought a telescope and about 1/5 truck bed of firewood for our fire pits  

 

 

Edited October 21, 2022 by 4th and 5

[MalibuSheriff 1090]

Miss trips to Big Bend.  Here’s a couple of photos from Hancock Hill in December 2015:

[4th and 5 4914]

Starlight theatre last night

Black Jack Crossing today

 

 

[4th and 5 4914]

Road to Presidio

[4th and 5 4914]

[CoachTex 2628]

Heading to big bend for the week of Thanksgiving.  Looking for some updated information on Santa Elena Canyon trail accessibility.  I know that the water is up but is it still crossable with a 12 year old in tow? Any current information is appreciated. 

[deft 6856]

That seems to change week by week. We took our 11, 9, and 6 year olds in July which is monsoon season. Water wasn’t high but the mud was. It was…..rough.

[CoachTex 2628]

Also stopping over in Marathon Sunday night before going into big bend.  Any dinning suggestions open on Sunday would be appreciated. 

[KaiserSoze 998]

2 hours ago, CoachTex said:

Also stopping over in Marathon Sunday night before going into big bend.  Any dinning suggestions open on Sunday would be appreciated. 

Brick Vault Brewery and BBQ- good beers, plenty good bbq, and a nice chill atmosphere. It's across the side street from the Gage Hotel and open until 5pm on Sundays. (closed Monday-Wednesday).

If you want something fancier, the 12 Gage restaurant is good and the White Buffalo is more casual (both are on the Gage property). You can't go wrong with any of those.

[Your Mom 4806]

9 hours ago, CoachTex said:

Heading to big bend for the week of Thanksgiving.  Looking for some updated information on Santa Elena Canyon trail accessibility.  I know that the water is up but is it still crossable with a 12 year old in tow? Any current information is appreciated. 

This is where I usually look for current conditions before a trip out there. 
https://bigbendchat.com/?sid=b093ce653fc86ffc9b73ec2725511ca4

 

[4th and 5 4914]

18 hours ago, CoachTex said:

Heading to big bend for the week of Thanksgiving.  Looking for some updated information on Santa Elena Canyon trail accessibility.  I know that the water is up but is it still crossable with a 12 year old in tow? Any current information is appreciated. 

Waist deep or more and very muddy. 
 

I wouldn’t. 
 

Hike Lost Mine, Balanced Rock or The Window. 

[CoachTex 2628]

44 minutes ago, 4th and 5 said:

Waist deep or more and very muddy. 
 

I wouldn’t. 
 

Hike Lost Mine, Balanced Rock or The Window. 

Already have all those on the slate.  Hoping in a month it will be a little less treacherous. I appreciate the information. 

[CoachTex 2628]

So what is the procedure at Santa Elena canyon trail if parking is full? Is there other parking near by? With us being in the park during Thanksgiving I realize that it will be crowded.   Is parking an issue? 

[deft 6856]

So what is the procedure at Santa Elena canyon trail if parking is full? Is there other parking near by? With us being in the park during Thanksgiving I realize that it will be crowded.   Is parking an issue? 

That’s the end of the road. I don’t think there any overflow down there cut I don’t remember for sure. I suppose you could park at the scenic photo overlook for the canyon and walk down but that’s gonna add some distance.

[Steel Shank 9428]

From the Statesman:

Big Bend park makes ‘Best of the World’

list in National Geographic magazine

Kelsey Bradshaw

Austin American-Statesman

USA TODAY NETWORK

We Texans knew it, but it seems the rest of the world is tuning in.

National Geographic magazine named Big Bend National Park one of the best destinations to visit in 2023. The West Texas park, which sits just north of the Texas-Mexico border and south of towns such as Marfa and Alpine, is one of 25 spots around the world on the list.

Big Bend is included in the 'nature' section of the list, along with Botswana, Slovenia, the Scottish Highlands and the Azores.

'Big Bend National Park brings to life the frontier legend of Texas — but the landscape will also surprise you,' the magazine says.

[shadow_operative2.0 16005]

Who was the OP? He’s banned & shit. 

[CoachTex 2628]

Just got back from first trip to Big Bend.  WOW! Is all I can say.

Edited November 26, 2022 by CoachTex

[deft 6856]

Window and Santa Elena canyon but no balanced rock?

[CoachTex 2628]

2 minutes ago, deft said:

Window and Santa Elena canyon but no balanced rock?

[deft 6856]

My man

[texashorne 1178]

I wad there 2 weeks ago. We stayed at Pat O's place in Terlingua Ghost town.. 

Tuesday: We drove in from DFW, literally taking the scenic route through Presidio and back over to Terlingua. We ate in Terlingua at that Bar-grill with the colorful lights, forgot the name. It was ok..

Wedensday: woke up early and went to Chisos Mtn lodge, hiked Emory Peak via Pinnacles. It was amazing. I did not do the last 25 feet up top.. it was windy and I found that to be a bit unsettling. We dined that night at Starlight theater. The filet was great, and the chili was solid..

 

Thusday: Back to Chisos mountain lodge, and we hiked Lost Mine Trail. This was probably my favorite trail of the week. I couldn't believe we were still in Texas seeing some of those views. We left and drove the Ross Maxwell scenic drive and back up Old Maverick road.. my check engine light had been on but after the washboard roads on Old Maverick I guess it vibrated off.. so that was nice.. We ended up doing a raft tour on the State Park side that was pretty cool. That night we ate at Long Draw Pizza.. it was great.

Friday: Chisos again and The Window Trail early in the AM. Boquillas in the PM. I insisted on getting Burros and not horses and that was a fantastic decision. Mexico was a great experience, but I personally wouldn't be interested in going back on a return trip.. The food was solid though, we bought lunch for Lupe who was our guide. 4 dollar beers and 9 dollar Margaritas didn't really scream Mexico to me, but I guess they can charge whatever they want. That night we went back to Starlight.. the band was awesome, the singer sounded pretty damn close to Loretta Lynn..

Saturday: Breakfast Tacos at that place by starlight.. they were amazing. Then to Lajitas for golf. Absolutely the best golf course I've ever played. Wife got a massage right as I teed off and met me at 9 with 2 coolers of beer. That night we ended back up at Long Draw Pizza.. good once again. 

Great trip. If you love Texas it will make you love it even more. What a fantastic place. 

[Anton Chigurh 3319]

Nice little Mexican Jay there too!

[yoladu 4094]

On 5/21/2022 at 4:34 PM, mdmost said:

Going to the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns on a long weekend next October. May try to see if we can White Sands NP but that might be too far of a stretch. 

how was the trip? We did this recently. Guadalupe Mountains NP is underrated IMO. Enjoyed it, but the weather was perfect. Wouldn't want to do it in the summer.

The scope of Carlsbad Cavern was unreal.

Carlsbad, NM : Restaurant options pretty uninspiring. Hotels options: basic, generic.

Edited November 28, 2022 by yoladu

[High Plains Drifter 11050]

On 10/23/2022 at 10:56 PM, CoachTex said:

Also stopping over in Marathon Sunday night before going into big bend.  Any dinning suggestions open on Sunday would be appreciated. 

 

On 10/24/2022 at 1:06 AM, KaiserSoze said:

Brick Vault Brewery and BBQ- good beers, plenty good bbq, and a nice chill atmosphere. It's across the side street from the Gage Hotel and open until 5pm on Sundays. (closed Monday-Wednesday).

If you want something fancier, the 12 Gage restaurant is good and the White Buffalo is more casual (both are on the Gage property). You can't go wrong with any of those.

 

Probably too late for you Coach, but for future BB visitors:

Brick Vault is damn good que, but they usually run out by Sunday. They also brew their own beer.

 

 

Oct-Dec is definitely the best time of year, although late Nov into Dec can be pretty cold.

 

 

 

 

 

[GreenspointTexas 9649]

I usually go late Feb and its perfect. Except the last time I was there… during the freeze. Staying in a bubble with no power was no fun

[High Plains Drifter 11050]

5 hours ago, GreenspointTexas said:

I usually go late Feb and its perfect. Except the last time I was there… during the freeze. Staying in a bubble with no power was no fun

 

Spring can get windy. Late winter can be cold and windy. Fall is much better imo. Certainly less windy, although ymmv.

Also, maybe its just me, but the colder the nights, the clearer the stars. Maybe its just less air pollution, I don't know.

 

but the worst night in BB is better than the best day in Austin, SA, Dallas, Houston, etc.

[UTexasFight 9498]

If you had to pick one, would you do the full south rim loop (excluding the northeast rim trail and Emory peak), or pinnacles and Emory peak out and back?

we’ve got one day and debating doing the 12 mile former, or 10 mile latter
 

 

[texashorne 1178]

1 hour ago, UTexasFight said:

If you had to pick one, would you do the full south rim loop (excluding the northeast rim trail and Emory peak), or pinnacles and Emory peak out and back?

we’ve got one day and debating doing the 12 mile former, or 10 mile latter
 

 

We did the latter a couple weeks ago and liked it.. great views the whole way.. I have never done the former. Sorry I'm not more help. 

You could do Lost Mines and Window in the same time it would take to do either of these.. that's another option. Both are great trails..Lost Mine being my favorite..

[UTexasFight 9498]

51 minutes ago, texashorne said:

We did the latter a couple weeks ago and liked it.. great views the whole way.. I have never done the former. Sorry I'm not more help. 

You could do Lost Mines and Window in the same time it would take to do either of these.. that's another option. Both are great trails..Lost Mine being my favorite..

Thanks.

yeah we’ve done the two you mentioned. And most of the other shorter, popular ones. (Balanced rock, Santa Elena).

we never seem to plan a Big Bend trip that’s long enough to squeeze in everything we want to do (not sure that’s even possible), but this will be my first time to actually have a full day to enjoy the park with no other plans.

I think I’m leaning Emory Peak and if we make good time try and squeeze in the hot springs before sunset 

 

 

[Anton Chigurh 3319]

I feel that South Rim is the best viewpoint in all of Texas, myself. Especially if you go up the Pinnacles route so you don’t get any preview of what you’re going to see beforehand.

[UncleBuck 6454]

On 11/29/2022 at 8:56 AM, GreenspointTexas said:

I usually go late Feb and its perfect. Except the last time I was there… during the freeze. Staying in a bubble with no power was no fun

We were out there this past february. The first night we stayed in Alpine. That was the good, really starry night that we took in at the Marfa Lights viewing area. The next night at the casita down in Terlingua it was too cloudy. Left a day early with the snow storm that was gunna drag its balls across I-10 (we made the right decision).

[GreenspointTexas 9649]

1 hour ago, Anton Chigurh said:

I feel that South Rim is the best viewpoint in all of Texas, myself. Especially if you go up the Pinnacles route so you don’t get any preview of what you’re going to see beforehand.

This is correct answer. Def bite the bullet and do emory and south rim at same time. Itll be about 8 hrs so so but its easily the best hike in the state

 

only guadalupe peak comes close

[stc 1462]

south rim over emory peak if you have to choose between the two. 

[Your Mom 4806]

12 hours ago, UTexasFight said:

we never seem to plan a Big Bend trip that’s long enough to squeeze in everything we want to do (not sure that’s even possible), but this will be my first time to actually have a full day to enjoy the park with no other plans.

If I can’t get three full days inside the park it’s not worth going to Big Bend.  It’s not just the size of the park, it’s how far it is from all the other little towns that the wives want to spend time in, like Marfa, Alpine, and Fort Davis.   Visiting BB while you happen to be in Marfa is kind of like visiting Austin for a day when you happen to be in Houston.  

But if you only have one day, I also like South Rim more than Emory Peak.   Don’t be deceived by the mileage, people do it in one day all the time but it’s slow walking and it’s going to take longer than you think.  

[UTexasFight 9498]

3 hours ago, Your Mom said:

If I can’t get three full days inside the park it’s not worth going to Big Bend.  It’s not just the size of the park, it’s how far it is from all the other little towns that the wives want to spend time in, like Marfa, Alpine, and Fort Davis.   Visiting BB while you happen to be in Marfa is kind of like visiting Austin for a day when you happen to be in Houston.  

 

110%…and yet here I am getting my third full day in the park 26 months after I got my first.

At least this time we don’t have any other spots to stop at on the itinerary…just the national park.

[Steel Shank 9428]

Aren't we lucky to have BB?