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Germany in December


Brisketexan

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Awesome photos! Has your boy become proficient in German?

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He’s pretty much there. When we’re out and about with him, he does all the talking.

He’s going to take the German proficiency exam for German uni, but we don’t think he’ll ultimately apply to any German undergrad, as he’d have to do another year of preparatory schooling in Germany before he could even apply, and he’s ready to start college soon.

Oh, and the girls so far are Swedish and Dutch. And we bumped into his Norwegian friend….holy crap, she’s as gorgeous as all the other Norwegians we know. We’ll see if any German girls get into the mix.
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Well, today has been a powerful one.

Marienkirche, Lubeck.
The first bricks were laid in in 1250.

Bach studied under the church’s renowned organist in 1705.

In 1942, an RAF air raid, in part in retaliation for the German destruction of Coventry Cathedral, heavily damaged the church. Its bells plummeted from the tower in the ensuing fire. And there they remain, broken, as a reminder. But they are not alone. Watching over them is a Coventry Cross of Nails, a gift from the community of Coventry.

In 2021, we visited, and lit a candle for our mothers, as we do when we visit a holy place anywhere in the world. And we timed our visit right; the noon organ concert was about to start. Music echoing off the ancient gothic vaults, as it has for centuries.

Bells shattered by war. A cross of nails, given in peace by the former enemy. A single flame, lit with love and memory, casting warmth and light into the gray winter day. And the echoes. All of the echoes.

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Brisket, since you left the country, recruiting and portal has gone crazy for Texas. Coincidence? Maybe, but just to be sure, I think you need to stay away until NSD2.

I would love to make the sacrifice.

Also, traveling with the wife is good for lovin’ time. Berlin in particular…very libertine city, sets the right mood.

My absence from Texas has brought many fine portents, omens, and blessings. I will endeavor to do more of it.
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Brisket, since you left the country, recruiting and portal has gone crazy for Texas. Coincidence? Maybe, but just to be sure, I think you need to stay away until NSD2.

I would love to make the sacrifice.

Also, traveling with the wife is good for lovin’ time. Berlin in particular…very libertine city, sets the right mood.

My absence from Texas has brought many fine portents, omens, and blessings. I will endeavor to do more of it.

And here is a shot my wife took of me, my contemplative gaze fixed on the cold sea. This will be the cover shot for my next album, a collection of maudlin German sea shanties.

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Some non Xmas market grub from the last few days.

Dinner last night was at the Ratskeller - literally the restaurant in the basement of the town hall. A pretty common thing in Germany.

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Wife and I both started with the creamy celery pear soup. Was good, but not outstanding.

Wife got the spinach and potato stuffed pastry - pretty tasty. And, being up by the Baltic, wanted to have more northern German fare, so got the herring and salmon plate. Pretty solid.

Oh, and Lubeck is super-famous for marzipan. So, we ended up at the go-to place for marzipan, and had a coffee and dessert - two different marzipan torts. Also, CSB, our waitress’s sister lives in Houston.

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Tonight, we went to a more modern German seafood place. I started with a local pils and a damned good seafood soup. Then, a fantastic piece of cod with cucumber salad and potatoes.

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Tomorrow, we take the train to Cologne.

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That salmon and herring plate looks great.  Herring is very underrated.

Big herring fan….only one in my family. Got a mixed herring plate in Sweden a couple of years ago that was glorious.

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And we’re also heading to Copenhagen, where the Torvehallern has some great herring smorrebrod, and curried herring.

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4 minutes ago, Brisketexan said:


Big herring fan….only one in my family. Got a mixed herring plate in Sweden a couple of years ago that was glorious.

69d8c09d050952f2ac195228475ab8aa.jpg


And we’re also heading to Copenhagen, where the Torvehallern has some great herring smorrebrod, and curried herring.

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We stopped in Stockholm on the way home from our Germany trip.  Ate pickled herring a couple of times and that might be one of my favorite things to eat.  The whole family loved it.

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On 12/14/2021 at 12:14 PM, TXSG8R said:

One of the best Chinese restaurants I’ve ever been to was in Munich. 

nm thinking of Berlin.

But there is or was an awesome dim sum house in Amsterdam. I haven't made it to Hong Kong yet but every bit as good as anything in SF.

Edited by Chopper
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10 hours ago, Brisketexan said:


I would love to make the sacrifice.

Also, traveling with the wife is good for lovin’ time. Berlin in particular…very libertine city, sets the right mood.

My absence from Texas has brought many fine portents, omens, and blessings. I will endeavor to do more of it.

And here is a shot my wife took of me, my contemplative gaze fixed on the cold sea. This will be the cover shot for my next album, a collection of maudlin German sea shanties.

590758fae344edb18ad6e376d625f6ab.jpg

I’m surprised…based on your food posts over the years I would have guessed you’d be pushing 4 bills. 

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7 hours ago, Brisketexan said:

Some non Xmas market grub from the last few days.

Dinner last night was at the Ratskeller - literally the restaurant in the basement of the town hall. A pretty common thing in Germany.

0fbac9aaf651dce16a74523a05d06bc9.jpg
a635f91f23c66b3eed43d5c3d4b79dca.jpg
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ab885b4ea4389e356bc19370e6f52ae4.jpg

Wife and I both started with the creamy celery pear soup. Was good, but not outstanding.

Wife got the spinach and potato stuffed pastry - pretty tasty. And, being up by the Baltic, wanted to have more northern German fare, so got the herring and salmon plate. Pretty solid.

Oh, and Lubeck is super-famous for marzipan. So, we ended up at the go-to place for marzipan, and had a coffee and dessert - two different marzipan torts. Also, CSB, our waitress’s sister lives in Houston.

74e0f82bb3642f2c4f7505429e7d11c6.jpg


Tonight, we went to a more modern German seafood place. I started with a local pils and a damned good seafood soup. Then, a fantastic piece of cod with cucumber salad and potatoes.

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Tomorrow, we take the train to Cologne.

Can you guys adopt me and I come travel along?

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17 hours ago, Brisketexan said:


Big herring fan….only one in my family. Got a mixed herring plate in Sweden a couple of years ago that was glorious.

69d8c09d050952f2ac195228475ab8aa.jpg


And we’re also heading to Copenhagen, where the Torvehallern has some great herring smorrebrod, and curried herring.
 

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Then! When you have found the shrubbery, you must cut down the mightiest tree in the forest wi-i-i-i-ith a herring!!

 

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Originalni.jpg
Then! When you have found the shrubbery, you must cut down the mightiest tree in the forest wi-i-i-i-ith a herring!!
 

Don’t know if I can pull that off. But, I WAS intrigued by all the deer blinds I saw in the countryside on our way south to Cologne today. Turns out, it’s a real-deal thing here.

Farmers own the land for agriculture, but the area federal forest master controls it all for game/hunting purposes. You lease out a particular area, and are responsible for taking certain quotas of game - as in, you are REQUIRED to kill shit, especially wild pigs (which, like here, tear up farmland). In fact, if a farmer’s land gets torn up by pigs, he can submit a request for payment to the forest master.

And I think, if you take an animal, you have to register it, and even pay for the meat you take from it. Regulated as hell.

Also, we fucked up and got on the wrong train in Hamburg (two trains going to cologne left from the same platform, like 6 mins apart due to slight delays). We realized it once we were on board. I confessed right away to DB ticket guy, he scanned tickets, and said yep, you messed up….but then looked at pitiful Americans and said “usually, you have to buy new ticket, but you are ok.” So, we got our nice train ride, got some work done on board, all that fun stuff.

Also, I’ve been feeling a bit tired and rundown all day, so….just to be safe….just took one of the portable COVID tests we brought with us. Negative. Whew.

Now taking it easy before dinner - snacked on some paprika potato chips to tide us over - where I’ll have some kolsch and pork knuckle….
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Well….I had a few kranzes. Kolsch makes me happy.

Dinner made us both happy.

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Then wandered a couple of the SMALLER markets nearby (haven’t hit the main one by the Dom yet). These are pretty upscale. And we noticed that the crowd was more cosmopolitan, partying more, etc, than the other markets we’ve hit. Some scenes:

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Dude…love me some crispy pork and kolsch. To bed soon, need a good night’s sleep.

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Did you go into the cathedral in Cologne?  The stained glass is unreal.  As I recall the rich blues are a byproduct of specific mineral content in the local geology.

We did. It really is awesome, in the actual meaning of the word. I’ve got some shots from it - less about the stained glass, and more about the 1,000 years of history found there….complicated history.

But the height is breathtaking, it really is. It is the defining symbol of the entire region, and for good reason.
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Man, I’ve got some thoughts on the Dom, the markets, and the Rhein. Cologne’s a cool city. A cool, 2000 yr old city.

And that post will follow later. Because cologne also contains one of the most disturbing stores we’ve ever seen. All kinds of fucked up bronze statues. And big ones, too.

This one is now bought, and once shipped, will surely be the new centerpiece of our front yard:

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On 12/13/2021 at 6:30 AM, Brisketexan said:


Walked by the Regent - looks solid.

We’re actually getting ready to leave Berlin. Heading over to the boy’s place to drop bags, then to his favorite burger joint for lunch. Then, the train to Lubeck.

Sign as we entered our dinner restaurant last night:

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Flammkuchen stand At Gendarmenmarkt:

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Dan Quayle loves the soup here:

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Love Lubeck. Great town to visit.

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Man, I’ve got some thoughts on the Dom, the markets, and the Rhein. Cologne’s a cool city. A cool, 2000 yr old city.

And that post will follow later. Because cologne also contains one of the most disturbing stores we’ve ever seen. All kinds of fucked up bronze statues. And big ones, too.

This one is now bought, and once shipped, will surely be the new centerpiece of our front yard:

4be2a315677d25d052c79b20b71143cb.jpg

giphy.gif
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Love Lubeck. Great town to visit.

It really was. It was on our original itinerary, and was eve wife’s idea, but then we switched to Dresden. But then Saxony closed. So, back to an itinerary with Lubeck. And I have to give her credit for the great idea. So, it’s not all sunshine and roses around here.
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After doing the cathedral, the wife went to shop and I headed to the Third Reich museum.  I got lost since the street signs are three foot long and 19 letters each.  I stopped at the Hilton and walked up to a young guy at the info desk.  I asked directions to the Third Reich museum and he said, "What's that?"

I wonder if history is taught differently over there?

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On 12/15/2021 at 2:43 PM, Brisketexan said:


Big herring fan….only one in my family. Got a mixed herring plate in Sweden a couple of years ago that was glorious.




And we’re also heading to Copenhagen, where the Torvehallern has some great herring smorrebrod, and curried herring.

9f73aaddb2ef65d354f669e263a720db.jpg
 

Your herring has suckers on it, might want to get that checked out.

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Would you recommend Cologne and Lubeck in the Spring?  Now that I have completely postponed my trip, I am trying to think of where else to go besides Paris.

I might. Carnival is apparently a huge deal in cologne….but it may be off for this year. And, it may not be your speed (it wouldn’t be our speed). I think Lubeck is more of a summer destination, if you’re not going over Xmas.

Berlin is a cool city any time of year, so there’s that.
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A day with friends along the Rhein.

Ancient city gates at Andernach.

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Apparently, in the 1500s, some early rising bakers deterred some enemies by dumping beehives on them.

Some booze with friends at the Koblenz (Austin sister city) market:

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The Deutches Eck - where the Mosel and the Rhein merge.

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And, if you’re trying to get Germans to get the vax, which celeb do you enlist in the cause?

Really, is there any other choice than….

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Also, when my son did his exchange here, this was the school he attended. He failed to tell us it was 440 yrs old.

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She will hurt you. And you will thank her for it.

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Finally, this is some sort of Rhein valley schnitzel - we had it in Munstermaifeld (a tiny-ass village). Imagine pork fried between two slabs of hash browns.

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A map of the area. We parked by the village church, from the 1300s. I mean, fuck….every damned thing here that we didn’t blow the fuck up in WWII is fucking ancient. This whole valley is Roman, for Christ’s sake.

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