2018 thread of gardening like a boss

[miguelito 11216]

My mother in law takes rose branches, with thorns, and buries them shallow in her flower beds to keep the cats from digging and pooping there.

 

She also has some recipes for sprays or something with hot peppers, human hair, and piss.  Maybe you could just ... mark your territory.

Edited April 22, 2018 by miguelito

[Deej 76533]

Sprinkled cayenne pepper in them last night. Seems to have kept them away.

[Bone3421 716]

My summer squash sprouted today....got corn and squash above ground

Now just waiting to see how north texas weather did on bell peppers,jalepenos and tomato

Started all from seed and soil temp was 73 before the cold front after easter so still hoping they sprout since they most likely didnt germinate before tempature dropped

[cab948 69]

I've got a raised bed garden in my backyard built out of steel channel so it holds heat pretty well.   Soil is roughly 10" deep, blackland dirt.  Always had a problem with nut grass throughout and bermuda grass in one corner of the garden.  Last year it was pretty neglected and I haven't had the time this spring so the bermuda has really taken off.   If I worked that corner and started pulling all the bermuda roots I can find and then just covered the whole garden area with tin for the summer, would the lack of sunlight and the heat be enough to kill off the bermuda so I could start fresh in the fall?  Or any other ideas?  

[Walden Ponderer 12639]

41 minutes ago, cab948 said:

I've got a raised bed garden in my backyard built out of steel channel so it holds heat pretty well.   Soil is roughly 10" deep, blackland dirt.  Always had a problem with nut grass throughout and bermuda grass in one corner of the garden.  Last year it was pretty neglected and I haven't had the time this spring so the bermuda has really taken off.   If I worked that corner and started pulling all the bermuda roots I can find and then just covered the whole garden area with tin for the summer, would the lack of sunlight and the heat be enough to kill off the bermuda so I could start fresh in the fall?  Or any other ideas?  

Black plastic works better than tin. Absorbs heat, whereas the tin actually reflects a great deal. And yes, it would kill it off. Cactus can probably tell you how long it needs to be there; personal experience tells me even if you nuke it, you're still gonna have to be pulling nutgrass at some point, though. Like the old blues standard says, "If it wasn't for nutgrass, I wouldn't have no grass at all."

[thunderlounge 7752]

Black landscape fabric also works, and lets moisture through to the soil underneath. 

[Errestaurants 2570]

some kale,spinach, basil and other greens from our garden

[TexasEd 8064]

my first Okra plant popped through the soil today!

[Bat Guano 359]

[humblebrag]Ate my first ripe tomato of the season. Only a cherry, but still. Delicious.[/humblebrag]

[Walden Ponderer 12639]

3 hours ago, Bat Guano said:

[humblebrag]Ate my first ripe tomato of the season. Only a cherry, but still. Delicious.[/humblebrag]

Nice. I've got some Romas that have set fruit, but it's still a ways away from them getting ripe. Should be getting blackberries by the end of the week, though. That'll be tasty.

[Bat Guano 359]

Yeah, I gambled and put some plants out in the middle of February. Had to cover them several times, but it paid off in early 'maters. Some full size ones coming along nicely; still green, but it shouldn't be too long now.

[Dr Fear 1265]

Anyone have a rec on a face dusk mask to use for mowing? I mowed two days ago and my allergies are still killing me. An I would rather not look like an Asian woman trying not to get the bird flu with the little white mask.

Any thoughts on this?

Mask

[Bat Guano 359]

34 minutes ago, Dr Fear said:

Anyone have a rec on a face dusk mask to use for mowing? I mowed two days ago and my allergies are still killing me. An I would rather not look like an Asian woman trying not to get the bird flu with the little white mask.

Any thoughts on this?

Mask

Something along these lines?

[TexasEd 8064]

Go to home depot and get a pack of N95 rated paper breathing masks.  They can be used a few times and thrown away when they get dirty.  I started using them a few years ago when I realized the pollen, dust and mold stirred up by the mower was affecting me well after I was done.

[cactusflinthead 27594]

On 4/23/2018 at 10:36 AM, Walden Ponderer said:

Black plastic works better than tin. Absorbs heat, whereas the tin actually reflects a great deal. And yes, it would kill it off. Cactus can probably tell you how long it needs to be there; personal experience tells me even if you nuke it, you're still gonna have to be pulling nutgrass at some point, though. Like the old blues standard says, "If it wasn't for nutgrass, I wouldn't have no grass at all."

I seem to recall six weeks for general soil sterilization. I think it was a UC Davis study. I'll have to check again. A buddy of mine that is all organic swears by solar for prepping beds for the farm. 

On 4/23/2018 at 12:01 PM, thunderlounge said:

Black landscape fabric also works, and lets moisture through to the soil underneath. 

I hate that stuff with the white hot passion of a thousand suns. I have seen nutgrass, johnsongrass and bermudagrass embedded and rooting out at the layer of the cloth because it was holding water better than the surrounding soil. For general soil covering I much prefer a good layer of mulch. It actually adds to the soil, suppresses the weeds as well as the cloth, and doesn't cause the soil to absorb the massive amounts of solar heat in summer. It's also a got dam pain in the ass to cut out around each plant. It works well behind a retaining wall to slow down the loss of soil between the seams but as a ground cloth I am less than impressed. 

As to the original question if you have bermudagrass I have to recommend the chemical option and the vigorous use of cultural practices, ie. go nuts with the shovel and pick. That will thin it out and you can hunt the survivors. It makes runners and embeds itself wherever it can find some refuge. Tiny gap between the stones? Joints in the steel edging? Shallow border of concrete or cinder block? All this. You have to be more persistent than it is. I personally like the fluazifop. God what a silly name. But it is either that or the round-up equivalents. 

[cactusflinthead 27594]

Quote

 

Soil solarization is a nonchemical method for controlling soilborne pests using high temperatures produced by capturing radiant energy from the sun. The method involves heating the soil by covering it with a clear plastic tarp for 4 to 6 weeks during a hot period of the year when the soil will receive the most direct sunlight. When properly done, the top 6 inches of the soil will heat up to as high as 140°F, depending on the location. The plastic sheets allow the sun’s radiant energy to be trapped in the soil, heating the top 12 to 18 inches and killing a wide range of soilborne pests, such as weeds, pathogens, nematodes, and insects.

The effect of solarization is greatest at the surface of the soil and decreases at deeper soil depths. The maximum temperature of soil solarized in the field is usually 108° to 131°F at a depth of 2 inches and 90° to 99°F at 18 inches. Control of soil pests is usually best for organisms found in the upper 6 inches of earth.

Solarization leaves no chemical residues and is a simple method appropriate for the home gardener or the large scale farmer. It can improve soil structure by increasing the availability of nitrogen and other essential nutrients for growing healthy plants, as well as controlling a range of pests.

 

Soil Solarization for Gardens and Landscapes

 

I know it sounds like I am contradicting myself when I rail against the ground cloth but praise solarization. If I am going to bake the dirt it is not being actively farmed. Some do. Some will run drip lines and plastic. I don't like it in a hot environment. I had rather use mulch for weed control and amendments than plastic or a woven cloth. If there is a known problem with an area such as fusarium or verticillium then I am all in favor of baking the shit out of it. And then using a nice varied mix of stuff for mulch. I am of a mind that mulch, compost and organic material of various kinds is an integral part of the dirt and farming process. 

We can prove that having a good layer of compost generally improves plant health and production. We can even prove it helps to suppress some diseases. We can definitely prove that it improves water holding ability and retention. Erosion, cooling. The list of things that helps production of good roses or good tomatoes concerning the addition of organic matter in the form of compost is fucking lengthy. Hay? You fucking betcha. Peanut hulls? Scrapings from under the Congress St. Bridge bagged up and sold at exorbitant prices? Knock yourself out. 

That last one qualifies as fertilizer. High octane bat chit. For real. 

 

My peas haven't bloomed even once yet. Fuckers are mocking me with lots of vines and not one flower. The roses are kicking all kinds of ass though

[thunderlounge 7752]

9 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

I hate that stuff with the white hot passion of a thousand suns. I have seen nutgrass, johnsongrass and bermudagrass embedded and rooting out at the layer of the cloth because it was holding water better than the surrounding soil. For general soil covering I much prefer a good layer of mulch.

 

We were discussing covering for the season without planting. I agree it’s shit when actually planting. 

[cab948 69]

Thanks for the help cactus. Looks like I will try go to a it a few different ways.   Chemical and pick/shovel for for awhile and then solarization during the dead of summer.  

[Red Sundance 6]

Landscape fabric is the devil.  I still have nightmares about having to remove that crap when landscaping.  (not really, but fuck that shit)

[Walden Ponderer 12639]

I've experimented one time and one time only with traditional solarizing; now, if I let a bed go fallow, I simply cover it with cardboard and then mulch. When I'm ready to work it again, I just till the whole thing without thinking about it once, let alone twice. I suppose I ought to be careful about not using any color-ink cardboard, but I'm a lazy hippie, not a fundamentalist one.

[swraith 336]

I am experimenting with growing a raspberry plant in a pot this year. Heritage Red variety. If it survives/thrives I may add more plants and put them in the ground next year.

[Both Tacos 1805]

Been researching about "How to grow big tomatoes" and seems that I'm going to either go with staking them or I'm leaning toward using homemade very large and tall cages. Plus lots of pruning along the way.

[686 3404]

Been researching about "How to grow big tomatoes" and seems that I'm going to either go with staking them or I'm leaning toward using homemade very large and tall cages. Plus lots of pruning along the way.

 

6 x 6 x 10 welded wire mesh works better than any store bought cage I’ve used, roll and cut to your desired diameter. The big boxes and McCoy’s has it, probably in ~ 4’ x 8’ or 10’ sheets.

 

 

You going determinate or indeterminate? I like indeterminate, but I have more loss of “tomatoes that will be perfect tomorrow” to birds I think because there are only a few ripe at a time vs a whole bush of ripe fruit.

[Both Tacos 1805]

 6 x 6 x 10 welded wire mesh works better than any store bought cage I’ve used, roll and cut to your desired diameter. The big boxes and McCoy’s has it, probably in ~ 4’ x 8’ or 10’ sheets.

 

 

You going determinate or indeterminate? I like indeterminate, but I have more loss of “tomatoes that will be perfect tomorrow” to birds I think because there are only a few ripe at a time vs a whole bush of ripe fruit.

 

Got the welded wires mesh panels, rather than a huge roll and made 9 large tomatoe cages. $5.50 at Lowes and some zip ties. If they grow taller than 5 ft., I can add another on top for more height. All my maters are indeterminate. For some reason I've never have had issues with birds but if that happens, I would pick them before they become bright red and let them ripen on the counter. Picture below sucks because it was right at dark, but I'll get another pic in the next day or two.

 

 

 

[GotThatFire 166]

Just moved into a new house in the high desert, where the afternoon sun is close and hot, and there's too much fuckin shade in my backyard to grow anything. No gardening this year, just trying to create some sunshine. I've always done my gardens in the back, maybe I'll try the front or side. Is that weird? 

[TexasEd 8064]

7 minutes ago, GotThatFire said:

Just moved into a new house in the high desert, where the afternoon sun is close and hot, and there's too much fuckin shade in my backyard to grow anything. No gardening this year, just trying to create some sunshine. I've always done my gardens in the back, maybe I'll try the front or side. Is that weird? 

no, grow where you have sun

[CooterBrown 17903]

Something along these lines?

Just realized Bane has a goatse mask.

[Walden Ponderer 12639]

13 hours ago, GotThatFire said:

Just moved into a new house in the high desert, where the afternoon sun is close and hot, and there's too much fuckin shade in my backyard to grow anything. No gardening this year, just trying to create some sunshine. I've always done my gardens in the back, maybe I'll try the front or side. Is that weird? 

Nothing wrong with weird. We've got fruit vines and trees growing right next to the street, and onions and pumpkins happily blooming in the front yard. Nobody's complained, and frankly we think they're prettier than a lot of ornamentals anyway.

[thunderlounge 7752]

19 hours ago, GotThatFire said:

Just moved into a new house in the high desert, where the afternoon sun is close and hot, and there's too much fuckin shade in my backyard to grow anything. No gardening this year, just trying to create some sunshine. I've always done my gardens in the back, maybe I'll try the front or side. Is that weird? 

 

 

[GotThatFire 166]

Yeah, no, not really./ 

[swraith 336]

First cherry tomatoes are ripening.

[4th and 5 4914]

potatoes

tomatoes

 

more tomatoes, cucumbers, basil, asparagus

Edited May 9, 2018 by 4th and 5

[texasdago 7552]

Having a great year so far with tomatoes... tons of cherry tomatoes so far.  Each day I go out and pick new ones.  Also tried a "Tumbling Tom" variety... needs to stay watered and it looks like a hot mess but it produces!

[RCRanger03 1049]

This is starting to spread through my potato plants... Is it blight and if so is there any remedy or are they doomed.

[Errestaurants 2570]

On 5/12/2018 at 4:18 PM, RCRanger03 said:

This is starting to spread through my potato plants... Is it blight and if so is there any remedy or are they doomed.

Im no Neil Sperry but it looks like blight hopefully someone who is an expert can chime in. We spray a mixture of water, dish soap, vegetable oil and baking soda on our tomato plants every couple weeks for preventive measures. 

[Errestaurants 2570]

Didn't have time to really go through the garden. we are building a new chicken coop but here are a couple of tidbits my daughter picked. lol

Did pick some more Kale and Chard and some nice spring onions but they didn't make it in the picture. 

 

[Both Tacos 1805]

Saw some yellowing of leaves the other day on the squash plants which means they are stressed. Finally had some time this evening to see what may be wrong with them. DAMN SQUASH BUGS already. Plants are just getting going and they have already shown up. I hate those damn bugs. They have killed of too many of my squash plants in the past. Found some on the leaves and squashed their little heads, then treated all the squash/zucchini plants. Hopefully that takes care of them for a while. Only found one leaf with eggs on it, which I removed. Did I mention that I HATE THOSE F'ing BUGS?

[cactusflinthead 27594]

On 5/12/2018 at 4:18 PM, RCRanger03 said:

This is starting to spread through my potato plants... Is it blight and if so is there any remedy or are they doomed.

I didn't find a match for those symptoms. Gut feeling it's fusarium. More later.

[Deej 76533]

First batch of baby bells ready.

[cactusflinthead 27594]

2 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

I didn't find a match for those symptoms. Gut feeling it's fusarium. More later.

Not fusarium. 

 

Quote

 

There are a number of cultural techniques that can be used to limit Septoria. Picking off the spotted leaves can slow down the disease if the infection is fairly light. Growing tomato plants in containers can be especially helpful provided that the soil used in the container is not from the garden. Using a commercially available bagged potting mix assures you that you’ll be starting your plants in a fresh environment free of residual Septoria. Remember to stake and space the tomato plants so that air can move freely within the foliage so that the time that the tomato leaves are wet is minimized. Water the plants via trickle irrigation so as to keep the foliage dry. If watering the plants overhead, do it at a time of day that allows the foliage to dry quickly. Avoid watering the plants in the evening as that might allow the leaves to stay wet through the nighttime and that will favor disease. If your garden is large enough, rotate your tomato plants so they are not grown in the same spot each year. At the end of the season, remove any infected tomato debris and dispose of it (do not compost it).

If despite your best efforts, Septoria continues to make a yearly appearance in your garden, you may want to consider using a protectant fungicide. One of the most common fungicides used for tomato spots/blight is chlorothalonil which can be found in several brands. There is now an organic fungicide called “Serenade” that can also be used. It may be difficult to find unless there are local businesses that carry organic products or it may have to be purchased online. Always read and follow all the label directions. It usually indicates that the spray is repeated at seven- to 10-day intervals during the growing season to protect the plant. During rainy periods, the interval between the sprays may need to be shortened. (i.e., applications made every 7 days versus 10 days). However, pesticide sprays cannot be applied more frequently than what is specified on the label.

 

chlorothalonil is Daconil. It is available at most big box stores and nurseries. Picking off infected leaves and spraying the rest would help. I'm not opposed to trying the organic versions. Including the one mentioned earlier with baking soda. 

 

And that's not quite it either. Too worn out to think clearly. It might be worth taking down to the county agent for a look. 

Edited May 15, 2018 by cactusflinthead
correction

[CleverNickname 1291]

Over at La Casita I had this idea for a survival garden. To that end I planted some sunchokes (jerusalem artichokes). I have this elaborate water tank system to automatically irrigate. It's been a dry spring, but they are doing well considering I just bought them from HEB and stuck in dirt:

There wasn't enough pressure for a drip line, but a hand dug little channel seems to do the trick. 

 

[RCRanger03 1049]

Thanks for the insight yall

Ordered the serenade fungicide, will pick those plants clean tomorrow morning

 

[irishtexan 11445]

What are these fuckers and how do I get them the fuck out of my tomatoes? Or do I even want them the fuck out?

[cactusflinthead 27594]

Juvenile leaf-footed bugs. Kill'em.

[irishtexan 11445]

With what? Normally I kill things with fire but I’m guessing that might harm the tomatoes.

[cactusflinthead 27594]

You can smash'em if you wanna. They are in the stinkbug fam, so gloves are recommended. Pyrethrin group insecticides were on the list. Soapy solutions might work. I had to dig to find the ID. Will root around again at the house. 

[cactusflinthead 27594]

Quote

However, in severe cases, insecticides can be considered as a last resort. If needed, insecticides will be most effective against small nymphs. Therefore, monitor infested plants for egg masses and try to make insecticide applications when small nymphs are present. The most effective insecticides against leaffooted bug are broad-spectrum, pyrethroid-based insecticides, such as permethrin. However, these products are quite toxic to bees and beneficial insects. Insecticidal soap or botanicals, such as neem oil or pyrethrin, may provide some control of young nymphs only. If insecticides are used close to harvest, make sure to observe the days-to-harvest period indicated on the insecticide label; and wash the fruit before eating.

Leaffooted Bug

what about eggs?

 

nymph/juvenile

and the adult

 

Quote

The leaf-footed bug attacks ripening fruit crops and causes discolored depressions or blemishes called cat-faces. You may have noticed these wounds on your tomatoes. Puncturing of fruit also allows secondary pathogens to enter and cause rotting. Tomatoes are not the only crop affected, other crops attacked are citrus fruits, pecans, apple, beans, bell pepper, blueberry, blackberry, corn, cucurbits, eggplant, peach, pear, plum, and squash.

 

Quote

 

Adult leaf-footed bugs migrate from weedy areas into tomato plants, particularly when the fruit has started to ripen. This is why you typically do did not see damage early in the season. Weedy areas also serve as shelters for these insects during the winter season, when tomatoes and other host plants are not available. Try to eliminate such areas near your garden or keep weedy areas closely mowed.

It is important to observe your garden on a daily basis. When you spot leaf-footed bugs, you can handpick the bugs, especially early in the season when the very young nymphs are tightly clustered together, especially in the morning. Wear gloves because of the odor they will emit when handled, and drop them into a can of soapy water.

 

Finding Leaf-footed Bugs in Your Tomatoes?

[Both Tacos 1805]

You can use a soapy solution (dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle) and spray all over them. It will suffocate them. That's the organic way to go. If you don't care about using a pesticide, get some Sevin dust and put around the base of the plant, stem and branches.

[cactusflinthead 27594]

Could we get some hard and fast measurements or at least the general neighborhood of recipes for organic methods. I usually won't exceed a teaspoon of liquid dish soap (buddy of mine swears by Joy, others prefer Ivory) for fear of too much being phytotoxic/scorch the hell out of the leaves. I have made tobacco tea like a sun tea. A good three fingered pinch of chewing tobacco(see I can have some half-assed measurements too) or some pipe tobacco in a gallon jug of water set in the sun to steep. A cup of that with a teaspoon of liquid dish soap in a gallon of water. Same thing with peppers. Cayenne, arbol or any other high level Scoville pepper, A cup? Half a cup? I need data people. Even from myself.  Repeatable, shareable data. I am all in favor of organic methods. I make a living killing things or trying to keep them alive. i am not sold on the idea that breaking out the hard core stuff is the best option at the outset. If I can get away with spraying baking soda instead of a twenty dollar jug of fungicide that is pretty easy math even for me. But, does it work? Can we get a set recipe or procedure and see appreciable results? It's evident that things like compost mulch combinations suppress some diseases in garden plants, both ornamental and agricultural. That much has been proven. We know it works, but we do not know why because it is such a vast array of variables. 

 

Hey  @Errestaurants

[4th and 5 4914]

Pyrethin garden dust

+

https://www.amazon.com/Dustin-mizer-Model-1212-Includes-Deflector/dp/B002KIB680

=

smells like........victory