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BigDHornfan

By BigDHornfan
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Armybrat

Armybrat 40850

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Back in the day I had a .44 mag lever gun I bought for my 18th birthday, and I would buy ammo for it all the time from Walmart. I just told them I was buying it for a rifle and there was no problem. That was almost 20 years ago, though. Pretty much any pistol round is also a rifle round, so there is really no way to enforce it unless things have changed.

A friend just bought a Henry Big Boy .357/.38 Special lever gun - “brass” frame. I’d like one of those, and also one in .327 Federal Magnum.

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Reagan1k
Reagan1k

Opened my big fat mouth at a nice gun shop while on an out of state trip.  Lots of vintage shotguns but very few rifles behind the glass.  Guy asked if I wanted to look at anything and I declined - sa

Gladeite
Gladeite

1874 SAA.  4 digit frame.  Not factory grips but been on the gun as long as anyone knows.  At least 80 years.  

BabaYaga
BabaYaga

SOOOOOOOO, I have an update. Folks were in town, got to talking about my .270's older sibling "Bob".  The unicorn rifle: Pre-64, Model 70 .257 Roberts "bob" Shorter, heavy bar

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davidg

davidg 4038

Posted
Posted

22lr is 18+
Any 22 is pretty much 18+. 22 short can be shot out of rifles.

I have a couple of bricks of 22 short. 100% shot out of a youth 22 bolt action single shot with a red dot. Have had 20-25 kids take their first shot with that gun.
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BabaYaga

BabaYaga 15300

Posted
Posted
On 5/13/2023 at 10:41 AM, Armybrat said:

Those single shot bolt action .22s are fun guns. 
Recently gave these two vintage Winchesters to my grandsons…

 

C0FF2AD3-259B-4C24-A857-3BA467349B83.jpeg

Nice, my first was a Winnie Model 52, minus the match sights.  I put tens of thousands of rounds down the tube with that gun.  Dad has and I need to get it back so it doesn't disappear.

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BHMCruiser

BHMCruiser 1814

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On 5/12/2023 at 4:16 PM, Bozo_Casanova said:

I think it’s up to the FFL to determine what they reasonably believe the ammo will be used for. I think of 22lr as rifle ammo primarily, and my guess is that others do as well.

22 short, on the other hand, would be almost exclusively for revolvers.

I have a Browning SA-22, .22 short semiauto rifle. 

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Bozo_Casanova

Bozo_Casanova 26472

Posted
Posted
On 5/13/2023 at 10:41 AM, Armybrat said:

Those single shot bolt action .22s are fun guns. 
Recently gave these two vintage Winchesters to my grandsons…

 

C0FF2AD3-259B-4C24-A857-3BA467349B83.jpeg

 

4 hours ago, BabaYaga said:

Nice, my first was a Winnie Model 52, minus the match sights.  I put tens of thousands of rounds down the tube with that gun.  Dad has and I need to get it back so it doesn't disappear.

I earned my Expert Marksman badge on an old Winchester 52 at Camp Olympia in the mid-80s. Love that rifle. 

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fattyflattie

fattyflattie 4639

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10 minutes ago, Bozo_Casanova said:

I earned my Expert Marksman badge on an old Winchester 52 at Camp Olympia in the mid-80s. Love that rifle. 

I passed on one a few years ago with a finomonile birdseye maple stock.   It was set up for competition shooting and sat on the auction sites forever.  Finally decided I wanted it, and it was no longer there.  I can still see it, and it was a really, really big miss of mine. 

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davidg

davidg 4038

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1 hour ago, BHMCruiser said:

I have a Browning SA-22, .22 short semiauto rifle. 

AB7DF588-5788-4973-9249-58A2087936EC.png.1d5c8f104fd41927c32225b82c0f2243.png

 

 

My daughter (no pics) got a SA-22 for Christmas right before her 16th birthday.  She is RH, left eye dominate and shoots left handed.  Bottom ejection on the Browning works great for her.

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mooseoutfront

mooseoutfront 3643

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Update on the 10mm I bought a few weeks ago:

I've been having failure to feeds with the 220 grain Buffalo Bore hard cast ammo.  Usually happens about round 14 or 15.  This seems to be a common problem for the hard cast 220 grain loads across all manufacturers.  Heard about Underwood Ammo that has a polymer coating on the 220 grain hard cast bullet that solves the problem.  No failure to feeds since I started shooting it.  The coating also eliminates the problem of lead fouling in the barrel, so Glock shooters should love it.  Highly recommend this ammo.

The 10mm auto has quickly become my favorite pistol round. 

10mm-auto-220-grain-flat-nose-black-cherry-coated-hard-cast-hunting-ammo-sku-242__12006.jpg

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Handcruser

Handcruser 2805

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Update on the 10mm I bought a few weeks ago:
I've been having failure to feeds with the 220 grain Buffalo Bore hard cast ammo.  Usually happens about round 14 or 15.  This seems to be a common problem for the hard cast 220 grain loads across all manufacturers.  Heard about Underwood Ammo that has a polymer coating on the 220 grain hard cast bullet that solves the problem.  No failure to feeds since I started shooting it.  The coating also eliminates the problem of lead fouling in the barrel, so Glock shooters should love it.  Highly recommend this ammo.
The 10mm auto has quickly become my favorite pistol round. 
10mm-auto-220-grain-flat-nose-black-cherry-coated-hard-cast-hunting-ammo-sku-242__12006.jpg.3b9b9fa008f4f0c69fe3bb8eed2ab18e.jpg

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Bozo_Casanova

Bozo_Casanova 26472

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, mooseoutfront said:

Update on the 10mm I bought a few weeks ago:

I've been having failure to feeds with the 220 grain Buffalo Bore hard cast ammo.  Usually happens about round 14 or 15.  This seems to be a common problem for the hard cast 220 grain loads across all manufacturers.  Heard about Underwood Ammo that has a polymer coating on the 220 grain hard cast bullet that solves the problem.  No failure to feeds since I started shooting it.  The coating also eliminates the problem of lead fouling in the barrel, so Glock shooters should love it.  Highly recommend this ammo.

The 10mm auto has quickly become my favorite pistol round. 

10mm-auto-220-grain-flat-nose-black-cherry-coated-hard-cast-hunting-ammo-sku-242__12006.jpg

 

19 hours ago, Handcruser said:


Good stuff

Y’all educate me- what’s the felt recoil difference between a 10mm and .45 acp +P/Super

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BabaYaga

BabaYaga 15300

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15 hours ago, Bozo_Casanova said:

 

Y’all educate me- what’s the felt recoil difference between a 10mm and .45 acp +P/Super

Stock 10mm is very watered down.  The major differences come when you handload.  With even basic handloads you can get the 10mm very close to a .41 mag.  The benefit of the .38 supe is capacity.  Thinner cases on a cartridge that hits hard/fast in a nigher capacity option.  

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NotActuallyALonghorn

NotActuallyALonghorn 4976

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Posted

The 6mm Flobert isn't regulated as a firearm in the Czech Republic because it is an old parlor gun cartridge that is basically a percussion cap with a projectile without any powder for indoor target shooting. I assume the 9mm Flobert is the same. In those cartridges, at least, it is basically the equivalent of a CO2 pellet pistol.

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Bozo_Casanova

Bozo_Casanova 26472

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

The 6mm Flobert isn't regulated as a firearm in the Czech Republic because it is an old parlor gun cartridge that is basically a percussion cap with a projectile without any powder for indoor target shooting. I assume the 9mm Flobert is the same. In those cartridges, at least, it is basically the equivalent of a CO2 pellet pistol.


9mm Flobert is a smoothbore garden gun, almost always a shotshell, pretty common in rural Europe.

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Party_Taco

Party_Taco 3734

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I am in need of some advice and seeking the sage wisdom of the Shag…

So my FiL has a rather legit collection, everything from mid 19th century pistols and carbines to broom handles and 45s. Sadly however, they spent a lot of time in the open, or unprotected from humidity in his safe over the last couple of years and need A LOT of love.

If you were going to deep clean and in some cases restore historic pieces, what would be your go to supply list? Thought is I hook him up for Father’s Day and we do it together, but I want to have everything we need to get it done.

Thanks in advance - Will share pics throughout the process!

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Armybrat

Armybrat 40850

Posted
Posted

Some good tips about removing rust from neglected guns:

First, make sure they are all unloaded before you start anything.

https://www.recoilweb.com/rusted-fixing-found-gifted-guns-154756.html?amp 

But I would skip the refinishing with cold blue, especially antiques, depending on the gun and what you intend to do with it.

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Crapinon

Crapinon 2257

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Party_Taco said:

I am in need of some advice and seeking the sage wisdom of the Shag…

So my FiL has a rather legit collection, everything from mid 19th century pistols and carbines to broom handles and 45s. Sadly however, they spent a lot of time in the open, or unprotected from humidity in his safe over the last couple of years and need A LOT of love.

If you were going to deep clean and in some cases restore historic pieces, what would be your go to supply list? Thought is I hook him up for Father’s Day and we do it together, but I want to have everything we need to get it done.

Thanks in advance - Will share pics throughout the process!

I would talk to a reputable gun broker before you do anything. And I mean someone who trades in classic weapons. I have a friend that works for a big collector/distributor and a lot of people will bring him guns they had "restored" that destroyed the value of the guns. Even something as simple as trying to reblue a firearm can take away from it's value. Some things, if not original, are better off looking old. And I'm not talking about a gunsmith. They can "fix" anything but that doesn't mean it's the right thing to do or in your best interest.  He has plenty of horror stories where a gunsmith "fixed" a firearm only to trash it's value and collectability. They're may have a fee for looking at your collection, but in the long run it could save you a lot of money.

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Handcruser

Handcruser 2805

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Posted
5th Circuit issues injunction delaying ATF brace rule change:
 

The plaintiffs only are impacted. The ruling is not applicable to the general public. However - it is very good news and lays the groundwork for the rest of us. It is only a matter of time.
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Reagan1k

Reagan1k 3024

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, Crapinon said:

I would talk to a reputable gun broker before you do anything. And I mean someone who trades in classic weapons. I have a friend that works for a big collector/distributor and a lot of people will bring him guns they had "restored" that destroyed the value of the guns. Even something as simple as trying to reblue a firearm can take away from it's value. Some things, if not original, are better off looking old. And I'm not talking about a gunsmith. They can "fix" anything but that doesn't mean it's the right thing to do or in your best interest.  He has plenty of horror stories where a gunsmith "fixed" a firearm only to trash it's value and collectability. They're may have a fee for looking at your collection, but in the long run it could save you a lot of money.

Yeah - what he said.  Don’t “restore” anything.  You can wipe them down and prevent further damage but refinishing is most often worse than doing nothing.

Some very fine BRASS wool, gun oil, and a gentle hand can be used to remove small areas of new surface rust and prevent it from spreading but again, tread carefully and get some professional advice from multiple sources before you take any real action. 

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Party_Taco

Party_Taco 3734

Posted
Posted

Appreciate the gun broker angle… hadn’t considered that need/possibility.

For the record, I’m not looking to restore or do heavy work, and blueing is out of the question, but I would like to clean them up and prevent further damage.

Are y’all saying to not touch anything and simply take them in for analysis?

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Reagan1k

Reagan1k 3024

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Party_Taco said:

Appreciate the gun broker angle… hadn’t considered that need/possibility.

For the record, I’m not looking to restore or do heavy work, and blueing is out of the question, but I would like to clean them up and prevent further damage.

Are y’all saying to not touch anything and simply take them in for analysis?

You won’t hurt anything with a light wipe down of oil. Should be done regularly anyway. Patina is patina and shouldn’t be changed (to your point about blueing being out of the question.)

If there is speckling of fresh rust, that should probably be cleaned off.  Fine brass wool  is softer than the finish / metal and will remove surface rust but leave finish / patina beneath.

To the extent you’re comfortable doing that, you won’t hurt anything, but if ever in doubt, do no harm and get several opinions / offers to compare.  Just like a major medical decision.

Is the goal to sell or just clean up and store properly going forward? 

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Party_Taco

Party_Taco 3734

Posted
Posted
You won’t hurt anything with a light wipe down of oil. Should be done regularly anyway. Patina is patina and shouldn’t be changed (to your point about blueing being out of the question.)
If there is speckling of fresh rust, that should probably be cleaned off.  Fine brass wool  is softer than the finish / metal and will remove surface rust but leave finish / patina beneath.
To the extent you’re comfortable doing that, you won’t hurt anything, but if ever in doubt, do no harm and get several opinions / offers to compare.  Just like a major medical decision.
Is the goal to sell or just clean up and store properly going forward? 

Just want to clean up and store. I’m told they’ll eventually be mine, so besides some quality time with my FiL, I’ll get a little protection on inheritance.

Totally comfortable with what you laid out, and I think evaluating every piece individually before determining cleaning need is the way to go.
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Reagan1k

Reagan1k 3024

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Party_Taco said:


Just want to clean up and store. I’m told they’ll eventually be mine, so besides some quality time with my FiL, I’ll get a little protection on inheritance.

Totally comfortable with what you laid out, and I think evaluating every piece individually before determining cleaning need is the way to go.

Good luck!  Should be a fun labor of love.  One easy idea would be to wipe them down, clean off any new  rust and catalog as you go with good high res photos of each piece that includes both sides and all factory markings. 

A good dealer or auction house could take a flash drive of that info and give you a rough valuation range by item , if nothing more than for insurance valuation.

Some may charge for the service.  Others will do it gratis for the enjoyment and the hope they earn your future business. 

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Handcruser

Handcruser 2805

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Posted
Thanks again for taking me through that process!

Anyone have a lead on a good broker in the Austin area?

Hi. I’m your local austin area arms dealer.

Why don’t you PM me some pics of what you have. Once I can see them I’ll tell you what direction I would go and give you several options in each.

My gun shop may or may not be interested - and if restoration is needed I know of a few reputable places. Happy to help.
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Party_Taco

Party_Taco 3734

Posted
Posted

Hi. I’m your local austin area arms dealer.

Why don’t you PM me some pics of what you have. Once I can see them I’ll tell you what direction I would go and give you several options in each.

My gun shop may or may not be interested - and if restoration is needed I know of a few reputable places. Happy to help.

Excellent - Since they’re in Dallas it will likely be a few weeks before we inventory, but I’ll absolutely be in touch when the time comes.

Thanks!
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