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BigDHornfan

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On 12/2/2019 at 5:54 PM, Gil Bang said:

For frame of reference, the price tags were still on from a sporting goods chain out here, and it was 9 bucks and change for 50 rounds.  

Like you, I live in SoCal.  If the chain sporting goods store you're talking about is Big 5, they were selling 9mm ammo at that price point not too long ago, so I bet the rounds you found aren't that old.   Like several others have stated, there should be no problem.  

Edited by Carl Spackler
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23 minutes ago, Carl Spackler said:

Like you, I live in SoCal.  If the chain sporting goods store you're talking about is Big 5, they were selling 9mm ammo at that price point not too long ago, so I bet the rounds you found aren't that old.   Like several others have stated, there should be no problem.  

You guessed it.   But these boxes just look old.  Like 10-15 years old.  Cardboard is yellowed etc.

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On 12/2/2019 at 9:53 AM, crimsonlonghorn said:

Speaking of safes...

We are - someday, if the stars align and business improves - going to build a new house at our farm.

Right now I've got space in the plans for a secret 10x10 vault room - closet within a closet - to store all my toys. Anybody have any ideas? 

Want to hide the door somehow - maybe behind some built in shelves, then with a normal reinforced steel door behind it. Doesn't necessarily have a to be a vault door does it?

I am thinking the walls can just be cinderblock behind drywall or should that be concrete? 

Ceiling maybe should be a steel plate or should that also be concrete? 

I'm sure the architect and the builder will have ideas, but it's always good to get extra feedback on my own. 

 

You may want steel reinforced concrete. Or at a minimum a steel mesh cage (think heavy duty BBQ grill grate). Cinder block construction is vulnerable to sledge hammers. 

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6 hours ago, BurntEyes said:

You might want to seriously consider something like vaultpro. I'm not specifically suggesting them, just one I'm familiar with off the top of my head.

Oh my.  So this will be happening in the next house.  Kicking my ass up and down right now that I didn’t know this existed when I built this one. 

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Speaking of safes...
We are - someday, if the stars align and business improves - going to build a new house at our farm.
Right now I've got space in the plans for a secret 10x10 vault room - closet within a closet - to store all my toys. Anybody have any ideas? 
Want to hide the door somehow - maybe behind some built in shelves, then with a normal reinforced steel door behind it. Doesn't necessarily have a to be a vault door does it?
I am thinking the walls can just be cinderblock behind drywall or should that be concrete? 
Ceiling maybe should be a steel plate or should that also be concrete? 
I'm sure the architect and the builder will have ideas, but it's always good to get extra feedback on my own. 
 


If you use block, drop rebar down every hole and backfill right concrete.

And if you're building new, don't go small. And 10x10 is small. Buy once, cry once.
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I don't so my response may not have much value to you but CompTac is my go to for carry and competition belts.
If it helps I think it is the top belt in all competition.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Their holsters are the tits for competition and training too.
Done a fuck ton of draws, movement and reholstering without a single failure of any sort.

Bigshark, why are you using a paddle holster?
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I have a couple of Crossbreed holsters and they work fine for bigger guns, but lately I've started pocket carrying my Sig P365 in a small Sticky brand holster and it has been fantastic. Much more convenient than wrestling with a belt and (for me) much more comfortable. I carry a lot more often now that it literally just involves picking the gun up and putting it in my pocket.

Only issues are that you a) need to be wearing pants with large pockets - nothing tight - and b) you can't put anything else in the same pocket for obvious safety reasons. Other than that it's just like having a cell phone in that pocket. 

And it draws very smoothly, too. The holster stays put and the gun slides right out. 

IMG_3554.jpg.4d2a8e4cbd261a766e7271e98fe52554.jpg

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Looking to get a semi-auto hog hunting setup going and have been doing a little shopping.

Am I missing something, or is there a steep discount when you purchase an AR upper and lower separately? For the 6.5 setup I'm looking at from LaRue it would seem that purchasing them separately and then assembling saves me almost a grand.

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Usually it’s because Larue build the whole thing as one so it’s a complete unit, perfect fit and finish type stuff, perfect return to zero etc...

As to most units being sold as an upper separate from a lower, it can go either way but yeah usually I guess they consider the complete rifle including convenience charge or something

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1 hour ago, lonestar3 said:

Looking to get a semi-auto hog hunting setup going and have been doing a little shopping.

Am I missing something, or is there a steep discount when you purchase an AR upper and lower separately? For the 6.5 setup I'm looking at from LaRue it would seem that purchasing them separately and then assembling saves me almost a grand.

There is an 11% federal excise tax on "compete firearms" so if you buy the whole thing assembled that's an extra cost right there. That's possibly at least part of what you're seeing. 

 

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7 hours ago, 4th and 5 said:

 Save yourself the dough and buy a Palmetto State Armory lower and then install the Larue tactical meticulously built trigger (MBT) 

Appreciate all the replies guys.

Is there one that you see that you'd recommend from PSA? Seems counter productive to have a $900 upper and a $49 lower kit. Also, appears they build that MBT into the upper kit if I'm reading this correctly:

https://imgur.com/YyKrulQ

Also, I'm guessing I haven't posted an image since we came over from the old site.

Edited by lonestar3
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The LT rifle kit you show doesn’t not include the receiver For 900. And it is a 6.5 Grendel. I wouldn’t. Go with the 6.5 Creedmoor.

The lower is the trigger and stock, that’s it. It needs to mate tightly with the upper. There is not much else to it.

I have quite a few $149 PSA lower specials with MBT triggers ($90) with PSA uppers ($350-450) in 223 Wylde and 6.5 Creedmoor , and Bushmaster and RRA as well as high dollar Wilson Combat NM uppers. To me, what little difference exists is hardly worth paying for. My PSA 223 Wylde shooting Hornady Match 75gr ammo is the most accurate rifle I own, and I put it together for about 550. 

Now if we are talking accessories, there is really only one way to go. Spend your money on the LaRue QD return to zero mounts and whatever optics you can afford  

I’d hit the PSA website and get the upper (350-450) and lower (150-200) you want and then order the MBT (90) and spend the difference (4-500) on optics

 

Edited by 4th and 5
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1 hour ago, Jkwellborn said:

Those LaRue mounts he’s talking about are the shit. I have some on my 300.

Yep. I have them on all rifles. Even my bolt actions, I have added a picatinny rail to the receiver and QD'ed the scope on, easy to swap firearms and re-sight if needed

It sounds a little crazy but my deer blind rifle is a sale price .308 Savage 11 ($299) ..........with pic rail ($60) and LaRue QD Mount ($220) and a $3,000 Swarovski 5-25x on top! $11:1 optic to gun

 

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Well fuck. Now I'm completely turned around and feel like I need a hand-holder to get this setup figured out correctly.

Would prefer to go with the LaRue upper kit - which appears to be $1341 for the CM 6.5.

It's saying that the "receiver fits the larue m110 lower" -- when I go to choose the lower, it's asking if the Caliber is 5.56 or 7.62. Do I fall into either of those?

Also, if that lower assembly is $200, wouldn't you keep it all the same product rather than saving a hundred bucks or so?

Looks like the best deal I could find on a full 6.5 CM would be this one:

https://gun.deals/product/savage-msr-10-hunter-65-creedmoor-18-20-rd-109699

 

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Yep. I have them on all rifles. Even my bolt actions, I have added a picatinny rail to the receiver and QD'ed the scope on, easy to swap firearms and re-sight if needed
It sounds a little crazy but my deer blind rifle is a sale price .308 Savage 11 ($299) ..........with pic rail ($60) and LaRue QD Mount ($220) and a $3,000 Swarovski 5-25x on top! $11:1 optic to gun
 

Now that’s doing it right.

Get the complete LaRue rifle. It’s your money. They’ll make more.
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So the lower needs to be an AR10 7.62/.308 or multi caliber.

 

As far as other options:

 

Palmetto State gen3 6.5cm runs about $900+

Radical firearms outta Houston runs about $950+

Diamondback about $950-1000+

Savage about $1100+

S&W about $1500

Cmmg about $1400

 

After that you are outta the entry-mid level and into the bigger boys which usually start about $2k and keep going up.

 

 

Oh and you can build an aero precision M5/ar10 in 6.5cm for about $1100 depending on deals.

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^^^^  Correct^^^^   Have to pick a platform first (AR-15 for things like 5.56 / 6.5 Grendel / .300 blackout OR AR-10 for .308 / 6.5 Creedmoore etc.

AR-15 uppers and lowers even from different MFG's are very forgiving with regard to compatibility b/c they are for the most part mil-spec.

AR-10 not so much if from different mfgs.  You'll need to make sure the upper you are looking for properly pairs with the lower b/c they won't all be the same - not mil-spec.

I've had a ton of luck buying PSA AR-10 lowers, and then pairing them with PSA complete uppers in both .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor.

With an AR-10, keeping your upper and lower in the same family isn't a requirement, but it can sure help.  Otherwise you need to look and ask a lot of questions to verify compatibility.

If this is just a shooter for hogs, deer,  occasional range days - a PSA upper / lower combo and a decent scope is a great value and you won't have any issues.

Simple solution is to buy an AR-15 lower and an AR-10 lower.  Then start adding uppers in various calibers suitable for each lower so you can end up with numerous rifles.

Then be sure to label your mags and be careful in keeping cartridges separate.

Our, as Speedtrucker says - buy a complete gun 1st and then add uppers if you want to diversify.

 

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Oh yeah completely forgot to mention the problem with ar10s...

Like mentioned above, ar10s don’t have an industry standard like the ar15. An ar15 is milspec and the only times things might be out of spec is with buffer tunes being commercial or milspec.

Ar10s have 2 main specs, Armalite and dpms. They will not mate together. However even outside of that you’ll find some manufacturers that might say they “should” mate with a dpms style lower etc but then you’ll read that the pins wouldn’t line up just right or their is a visible gap when paired. I’m not sure if it is still the case but I know rock rivers lar308 was completely proprietary...

Most of the entry & mid level ar10 manufactures tend to base off the dpms g2 pattern, like aero and mega use the dpms lr pattern.

It’s a pain, it was when I was trying to build my .308 pistol

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Super helpful guys. Appreciate it.
Think I'm on the right path now towards getting something I won't immediately be wanting to upgrade for range/knockdown power/etc.
I'm sure there's a thousand articles out there, but what's the main reason for Creedmor > Grendel? Range?


Grendel basically improved the ballistics of the .223 but it’s expensive because it hasn’t had the adoption rate of other ar15 calibers like the 300blk.

Creedmoor is basically a match caliber, pushes a big bullet faster, flatter and further than the .308 and the prices have come down some because it’s a popular round now.

If this is gonna be a close range hog hunter, your gonna have to figure out a Creedmoor round that works for you because it’s fast. I’ve heard friends who hit a deer inside of 100 yards and it was too clean of a hit, no expansion and the deer ran forever.

I have a bunch of friends who harvest hogs with 300blk because they are never outside of 75yards.

My 308 pistol wastes a lot of powder so the fps is slower and expansion seems to be well enough at closer ranges but because of that out past 200 yards, my 185gr bullet is dropping off pretty quickly. Can’t say what the FPS is at that range or what the energy is anymore but it ain’t gonna be like it would if I had a 16-20” barrel
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1 hour ago, lonestar3 said:

Super helpful guys. Appreciate it.

Think I'm on the right path now towards getting something I won't immediately be wanting to upgrade for range/knockdown power/etc.

I'm sure there's a thousand articles out there, but what's the main reason for Creedmor > Grendel? Range?

AR-15 Platform.....  5.56/.223 is on the light side with regard to hunting capabilities for bigger game (hogs/deer).  Many would argue either way, but it is still a lighter round for hunting. The 6.5 Grendel and .300 Blk are more akin to traditional hunting rounds in the same vein as .243 and 30-30 respectively....That's a huge generalization but you get the drift.  Pushing rounds of 100gr or more with sufficient energy for that sized game.  +300 yard range for the 6.5GR and 200 yards (supersonic) and 75-100 yards for the subsonic .300 blackout

AR-10 Platform..... Based around a longer .308 type case, the AR-10 allows for longer cased rounds such as the .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor which would be a step up in both range and energy if hunting medium sized game....in excess of that for which a 6.5GR or .300 blackout would be practical/prudent.

If you want a rifle that you can take to the range and blow through a lot of cheap ammo, then the AR-15 with a 5.56 upper is all you need.  If you want to be able to hunt with it as well, add a 6.5GR upper and you have 2 guns for the price of 1.5.

If lots of range time and high round counts aren't your thing, and you want a rifle for strictly hunting and / or the occasional range time (especially long range shooting) then the AR-10 platform in either .308 or 6.5 Creedmoor (or both by using two uppers) would a good call.

Bear in mind that an AR-10 is going to be a heavier firearm than the AR-10 all things being equal because of the larger receiver and heavier barrel.

Start with what you want the tool to be used for as a primary and secondary purpose and then walk back from there and the right choice for you will be pretty obvious.

 

 

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PSA  - Walmart is exiting the handgun and 5.56/.223 ammo market and are putting all of their current inventory on sale - very cheap.  Pretty sure .22 as well.

They aren't advertising it much but the clearance is on.

If you can fathom / stomach going to a Walmart during December you can pick up some pretty cheap range ammo.

9mm is $.09/round in 100 packs if that gives you an idea.

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2 hours ago, lonestar3 said:

Super helpful guys. Appreciate it.

Think I'm on the right path now towards getting something I won't immediately be wanting to upgrade for range/knockdown power/etc.

I'm sure there's a thousand articles out there, but what's the main reason for Creedmor > Grendel? Range?

The Creedmore has taken the long-range (1,000+Yds) circuit by storm due the sectional density and ballistic coefficient of the round.  Translation:  it's a longer, skinnier bullet that is easier to shoot accurately over long distances.  Specifically the 6.5CM.  6mm CM is a neat round as well (similar to a .243).  Keep in mind every few years there's a NEW, HOT round.  Weatherby.  WSM.  Nosler.  Creedmore.  

For pigs, IMHO, 5.56 is all you need.  After that first shot.  They scatter.  FAST.  It then becomes about the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th shots being able to be fired accurately and being able to rapidly reacquire a running target.  With a tighter twist rate is will stabilize 60-70gr pills that do the job quite well with minimal recoil.  

I've sat in a cold, dark field spotlighting next to a friend and his (very F-ing LOUD) M-1A Springfield.  I consistently would easily double his downed pigs (if not more).  I could get back on target so much faster.  It was no contest.  His had bigger holes in them.  Both did the job.  

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Quick follow up:  again, if this is primarily for pigs.  Don't overlook the venerable 7.62x39.  It's not sexy.  It's been around for decades.  And it does the job.  Great, great intermediate range round when paired with modern optics.  Low recoil.  Heavier grain.  Easily accessible ammunition.  Just fun to shoot.  

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I bought a PSA Gen 2 "PA-10" in .308 for $600 and then spent about the same amount on Trijicon glass. It knocks down pigs and coyotes very well from about 200 yds in, which is as far as I ever shoot at them. All the gun I need for that purpose. 

I also have a Model 70 in .308 with a Leupold scope that all in all is a much more accurate gun but not nearly as much fun to shoot as the AR. 

I have two other PSA PA-15's and they are great guns too for the money. 

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11 hours ago, Speedtrucker said:

So the lower needs to be an AR10 7.62/.308 or multi caliber.

 

As far as other options:

 

Palmetto State gen3 6.5cm runs about $900+

Radical firearms outta Houston runs about $950+

Diamondback about $950-1000+

Savage about $1100+

S&W about $1500

Cmmg about $1400

 

After that you are outta the entry-mid level and into the bigger boys which usually start about $2k and keep going up.

 

 

Oh and you can build an aero precision M5/ar10 in 6.5cm for about $1100 depending on deals.

FYI, I have a Radical Firearms 300 BLK pistol I bought a few years ago for something obscenely cheap. It has no problems cycling through ammunition or anything like that, but trying to zero that rifle(pistol) has been a huge pain. It shoots to the left substantially. Bore sight it and line the iron sights up and then go to shoot it... 

It shoots nowhere near. Far enough off that I'm not even sure the iron sights have enough adjustment. Maybe it needs a new barrel, or maybe the flash suppressor is knocking things off. But it has proved enough of a pain that I've never bothered to get it properly sighted in.

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Usually when sighting in an AR with a red dot that should co-witness I put some Magpul MBUS's on it and then adjust the red dot so that it is aiming where the iron sights are aiming. That usually gets you close enough to dial it in. Except when I did that with this gun it was shooting like 8 inches to a foot left at 25 yards. Never had that problem with an AR before.

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16 minutes ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Except when I did that with this gun it was shooting like 8 inches to a foot left at 25 yards. Never had that problem with an AR before.

Yeah, that's wild.  I'd take it to a smith and have them investigate the sights.  Sounds like they got bumped.  

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