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Posted
11 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

How big do you need to print? Any plans to one day print anything with engineering grade materials? 

1/72 so about an inch tall. 

Nah, just miniatures and maybe some buildings.

Wounded and KIA.

The diorama is only going to be 4x3 and show air support on the eastern front. We have a series we want to showing ground support across all WW2 theaters.

 

Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, InkaUtexas said:

1/72 so about an inch tall. 

Nah, just miniatures and maybe some buildings.

Wounded and KIA.

The diorama is only going to be 4x3 and show air support on the eastern front. We have a series we want to showing ground support across all WW2 theaters.

 

Do you have the files or models you'd like in your diorama? Websites like cults3D have some really talented modelers and sculptors and you can get some great models there.

At an inch tall you can get some excellent detail with an FDM printer using a .2mm nozzle - I've printed D&D minis at that scale that once painted you can't see the layer lines. You can (could I guess due to tariffs) get a great FDM printer like an a1 mini for $250-300 that'll do one filament, or add another Benjamin for the filament switcher AMS unit to do up to 4 filaments.

If you've got files I'm happy to print em and mail em to ya from Houston if you cover the postage. Otherwise, there's some great print services with very reasonable prices to get your model printed in resin which ends up looking like a factory-made part.

Alternatively, check out a local hobby or model making store. They may have some correct timeframe and scale sets that you can buy off the shelf for more kitbashing parts

Edited by Captainant
Posted
6 minutes ago, Captainant said:

Do you have the files or models you'd like in your diorama? Websites like cults3D have some really talented modelers and sculptors and you can get some great models there.

At an inch tall you can get some excellent detail with an FDM printer using a .2mm nozzle - I've printed D&D minis at that scale that once painted you can't see the layer lines. You can (could I guess due to tariffs) get a great FDM printer like an a1 mini for $250-300 that'll do one filament, or add another Benjamin for the filament switcher AMS unit to do up to 4 filaments.

If you've got files I'm happy to print em and mail em to ya from Houston if you cover the postage. Otherwise, there's some great print services with very reasonable prices to get your model printed in resin which ends up looking like a factory-made part.

Alternatively, check out a local hobby or model making store. They may have some correct timeframe and scale sets that you can buy off the shelf for more kitbashing parts

My man! Yeah, I think it might be time to get a printer. Got a link? 

I will see if I can find files.

I am in San Marcos. We don't have model shops! All we have is hobby lobby and their overpriced snap tight collection of shitty cars.

Buddy recommended this site.

https://www.yeggi.com/q/wounded+soldier+ww2/

Thoughts?

 

Posted
1 minute ago, InkaUtexas said:

My man! Yeah, I think it might be time to get a printer. Got a link? 

Your timing is unfortunate, I just checked and everything is $100-200 more expensive than it used to be. I really like the Bambu printers but they're not the be-all-end-all, but they're pretty much push-and-go to the point where it's basically an appliance and not a tool

The other brands like Creality and Elegoo make cheap and decent printers but their software support isn't as good, and you spend a bunch of time tinkering and tuning instead of printing. Prusa is a really nice and open source printer, but they're not cheap. They write most of the open source software for slicers and printer firmware, and are deeply committed to repairability. 

If you're primarily just doing model printing I would recommend Bambu's A1 ($500, 10 inch³ print volume) or an A1 mini ($350, 7 inch³ print volume) since they're a cheap and self-level and self-calibrate and they're CRAZY fuckin fast. If you want to do multi-filamant you can buy the AMS separately later, or buy it as a bundle and save like $50

  • Hook 'Em 1
Posted
Just now, Captainant said:

Your timing is unfortunate, I just checked and everything is $100-200 more expensive than it used to be. I really like the Bambu printers but they're not the be-all-end-all, but they're pretty much push-and-go to the point where it's basically an appliance and not a tool

The other brands like Creality and Elegoo make cheap and decent printers but their software support isn't as good, and you spend a bunch of time tinkering and tuning instead of printing. Prusa is a really nice and open source printer, but they're not cheap. They write most of the open source software for slicers and printer firmware, and are deeply committed to repairability. 

If you're primarily just doing model printing I would recommend Bambu's A1 ($500, 10 inch³ print volume) or an A1 mini ($350, 7 inch³ print volume) since they're a cheap and self-level and self-calibrate and they're CRAZY fuckin fast. If you want to do multi-filamant you can buy the AMS separately later, or buy it as a bundle and save like $50

Thank you. I will look into them and see what I can do.

Appreciate the advice.

This is the type of miniatures I would want to print. And maybe some buildings, a bridge, etc.

image.jpeg.d02d1b550a734ad994f6519ddea06aa5.jpeg

 

Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, InkaUtexas said:

Thank you. I will look into them and see what I can do.

Appreciate the advice.

This is the type of miniatures I would want to print. And maybe some buildings, a bridge, etc.

image.jpeg.d02d1b550a734ad994f6519ddea06aa5.jpeg

 

Just to temper your expectations a little - printing can be a little finicky and has a little bit of a learning curve. Once you have the models you load them into a program called a "slicer" and define settings like type of infil, % of infil, number and thickness of the walls on the model, supports, etc etc etc. Once you have all that set along with your filament and layer height settings, your Slicer turns the model into a gcode file that your printer uses to actually make the thing.

While you're thinking about what printer to get I'd strongly recommend you to download and get familiar with a slicer program like PrusaSlicer (the OG), or OrcaSlicer or BambuStudio (customized forks of PrusaSlicer). I've found that I spend more time setting up and slicing my models than I do printing sometimes when it's a small and detail-rich model.

Supports are tricky, and for the type of stuff you're doing I'd recommend "tree" style supports, which branch out and up and work really well with organic and complex forms

Edited by Captainant
  • Hook 'Em 1
Posted (edited)

So, I applied for a Form 1 Friday morning, and the approval came back today before lunch time. So now I've got to figure out how to swap my hot end out and get everything dialed in for printing with PA6-CF. Soon, loud things will be significantly less loud. 

Edited by NotActuallyALonghorn
  • Hook 'Em 1
Posted

3D printing gurus. We use a ladle that was made over 50 years ago. It is the greatest ladle design in the history of mankind, surpassing the design produced by the Mesopotamians at the Battle of Carthage. 

We have searched endlessly for over 20 years for a ladle that has the same or similar shape, angles, depth, size, and shape. We’ve never found anything close to it. It is bizarre. 

Do you think this could be produced by a 3D printer? Either just the head, or the whole thing, or parts? We are out of other options. 

The picture doesn’t do this ladle justice. It’s perfectly designed, for gravy, soup, etc.

 


 

image.thumb.jpeg.8ba35e1cf088778aae3814fa84f0763a.jpeg

Posted
On 4/28/2025 at 8:14 PM, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

So, I applied for a Form 1 Friday morning, and the approval came back today before lunch time. So now I've got to figure out how to swap my hot end out and get everything dialed in for printing with PA6-CF. Soon, loud things will be significantly less loud. 

What printer are you using? You'll probably want an enclosed and heated chamber to avoid any warping, on top of hardening your hot end and extruder gears 

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Dbeasy said:

3D printing gurus. We use a ladle that was made over 50 years ago. It is the greatest ladle design in the history of mankind, surpassing the design produced by the Mesopotamians at the Battle of Carthage. 

We have searched endlessly for over 20 years for a ladle that has the same or similar shape, angles, depth, size, and shape. We’ve never found anything close to it. It is bizarre. 

Do you think this could be produced by a 3D printer? Either just the head, or the whole thing, or parts? We are out of other options. 

The picture doesn’t do this ladle justice. It’s perfectly designed, for gravy, soup, etc.

 


 

image.thumb.jpeg.8ba35e1cf088778aae3814fa84f0763a.jpeg

I know this is a more serious answer than you meant, but if you can get a good side-on profile picture and provide a few critical dimensions it's not too hard to recreate something in CAD.

Print-wise you should never use FDM prints with food. The surface texture is inherently going to have all sorts of nooks and crannies that bacteria will grow in, not to mention that printers aren't food safe rated and use lubricants that aren't safe to eat. 

To recreate it, you could model it and then send that 3d model or CAD  off to PCBway or some other print service to actually make the thing in metal or food-safe resin 

Edited by Captainant
Posted
5 hours ago, Captainant said:

I know this is a more serious answer than you meant, but if you can get a good side-on profile picture and provide a few critical dimensions it's not too hard to recreate something in CAD.

Print-wise you should never use FDM prints with food. The surface texture is inherently going to have all sorts of nooks and crannies that bacteria will grow in, not to mention that printers aren't food safe rated and use lubricants that aren't safe to eat. 

To recreate it, you could model it and then send that 3d model or CAD  off to PCBway or some other print service to actually make the thing in metal or food-safe resin 

Thanks. This one is finally breaking down and if we really can’t find a replacement, I may seriously look at doing that. 

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