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Just got back from Isla Mujeres


wood

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Manana.  On the beach at Secreto by noon.

Bastos, Dopis, Ballyhoo and probably Fredy's.  I like Fredy.  Secreto serves breakfast to our rooms as part of the room cost so that's taken care of.  Swimming with whale sharks and a golf cart day with Punta Sur, The Joint and margaritas at Soggy Peso are a certainty.  Much tequila will be drank.  This will be the first time my kids are at Isla with us (29 and 25) so it's already a special trip.

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Here are couple pics of our whale sharks swim. Things are massive. It is comical to see the cluster fuck of boats circling, trying to let swimmers out and stay ahead of the sharks. The dude on the boat with us was a videographer and had some unreal footage. I will see if I can get it from him.


*** fun fact. The reason they are in Isla this time of year is the massive presence of fertilized Tuna eggs (which float).


I regret that we didn’t try Fuego Del Mar for dinner one night, but the only time we could have fit it in, everyone was trashed from golf cart drinking and then being at the beach all day, so I decided to stay close and went to Javi’s.

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Dinners this trip. Javi’s. Dopi’s x 2, Bastos. La Lomita.  Rubens. Rolandis.  I’m missing one.  All were very good as always.  Had lunch at Fredy’s  Fredy’s is a good dude  

Today is is the last day here for me. My wife and daughter are heading up to Holbox for four days then heading home. 

I’m already planning my next trip here.  Carnival is the first week of March next year and the weather is incredible here in the spring.  

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Almost have Playa del Carmen, New Years 2020 accommodations finalized, staying the Saturday before to Saturday after. Hoping to piggyback on this thread.

Went a few years ago and stayed in an AI, but this time we’re on our own for meals/drinks. Also looking to tack on a few days in CDMX on either end.

Any recs would be appreciated...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Did you bring a camera with you or did they take pics for you while you swim with the whale sharks?   Basically do i need to go buy a waterproof camera this week.
Leaving next saturday (7/13).

I bought a cheap waterproof camera video recorder off amazon for like $40. Wasn’t anything special but it got some pics and video. I think the brand name was Davola. One thing I didn’t have was an attachment to hold onto the camera. I would highly suggest that.

Other people on boat had fancy GoPros and got some nice footage.


It’s hard to explain, but the moment your boat pulls up on a whale shark and they start telling you to jump, chaos ensues. I would probably just turn the video setting on and let it record and then jump.
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Did you bring a camera with you or did they take pics for you while you swim with the whale sharks?   Basically do i need to go buy a waterproof camera this week.
Leaving next saturday (7/13).


I got a GoPro and a waterproof case for it.
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You guys are nuts - it's hot as fuck in Mexico right now. Best time for Isla is in the fall-winter months 


True, but summer is only real chance to get away for a week for some of us who have multiple kids in sports throughout the school year.

We went between Xmas and NYE once and it was awesome but A lot more crowded and more expensive.
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1 hour ago, 6th Street said:

You guys are nuts - it's hot as fuck in Mexico right now. Best time for Isla is in the fall-winter months 

I like the heat. And I like my cooling off options in the heat there better than in the heat here. Besides, it's generally about 10 degrees cooler on Isla than here in Austin in the summer. I'll take Isla anytime of year.

& what Mac said.

Edited by wood
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1 hour ago, 6th Street said:

You guys are nuts - it's hot as fuck in Mexico right now. Best time for Isla is in the fall-winter months 

Truth.  We wanted to do whale sharks.  All other visits will be sometime in the January through March timeframe.  The weather is spectacular then.

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58 minutes ago, Mac8111 said:

 


True, but summer is only real chance to get away for a week for some of us who have multiple kids in sports throughout the school year.

We went between Xmas and NYE once and it was awesome but A lot more crowded and more expensive.

 

Yeah I totally get the schedule thing. This is low season so prob some good deals to be had. Just need to stay in the pool, beach, or room. 

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13 minutes ago, 6th Street said:

Yeah I totally get the schedule thing. This is low season so prob some good deals to be had. Just need to stay in the pool, beach, or room. 

Being outside in the water is why we go & like I said, it's still significantly cooler than it is here. We're in the water most of the time when we're there, & I'm one of those people who really wants it to be hot to swim in cooler water (like in the cenotes). 

They say Low Season doesn't really start til September. This is the Summer Season. Gets busy & crowded AF later this month and through August.

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You guys are nuts - it's hot as fuck in Mexico right now. Best time for Isla is in the fall-winter months 


Can confirm. It’s hot as fuck. The pool at Ixchel was hot tub temp.

Counter argument is it’s hot, but so is Texas and here you still get this:

Playa Norte
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North Garden Chilaquiles
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Bastos Quesadilla (son’s dinner...but damn it was awesome)
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Bastos steak w. Verde sauce
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Also, Bastos was incredible. We rolled up around 4:30 with a group of 13 (half kids) and before we even got to the door, they already had a table setup for the group. Made a few pitchers of aguas frescas for the kids, margaritas for the adults and delivered a bunch of great food. I think between all the kids and adults, we sampled pretty much the entire menu - all awesome.

We’ll do a quesadilla take out night once this week to give the kids/us a break from running around instead of the pizza we planned
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just got back from 7 days.  Rented a house about mid island on carribean side - it was hot, but so is houston.   Just moved from pool at house or beach so no biggie.

Scuba with the kids on monday - at the reef and the MUSA

whale shark on wed - they said it was the most sharks they have seen all season, and the official count was 143 of them, so while there were a bunch of boats out there, we were able to hang to the side with one or two other boats and had our own group.   it was cool.

And did all the normal drink/eat at the normal places the rest of the time.    Always great.

The main "problem" this time was there were 2x number of day trippers from cancun because of their seaweed beach problem.   "Get off my fucking island you fucking tourists" i thought more than once.

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2 hours ago, Mr. Drummond said:

The main "problem" this time was there were 2x number of day trippers from cancun because of their seaweed beach problem.   "Get off my fucking island you fucking tourists" i thought more than once.

The place always gets really crowded starting about the 10th or 15th of July through August. Was it double that amount? I've been watching some on the Ixchel cam & Playa Norte looks pretty normal for this time of year. BTW, there's a cam now that has sound. Watch that for a little while & you'll really pine for Isla.

 

 

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I've never been here in july - but the guides were saying its worse than normal and the traffic on the road by the ferry was a nightmare

no seaweed anywhere.  we were on the carribean side, and i went scuba diving in the bay.

Edited by Mr. Drummond
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10 hours ago, Mr. Drummond said:

The main "problem" this time was there were 2x number of day trippers from cancun because of their seaweed beach problem.   "Get off my fucking island you fucking tourists" i thought more than once.

Get used to it. The sargassum isn't going away anytime soon.

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Used to swirl in the Atlantic but now it’s so much larger it’s migrating across the Atlantic through the Caribbean. Climate change and fertilizer from west Africa and the Amazon are said to be the culprits. Mayan Riviera is toast.

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So I transferred some points to an airline to book flights back from Vegas not realizing it was a red eye. Those are now canceled, but I had points with an airline I don’t frequently use that were locked there. Obviously a great excuse to go back to Isla...this time sans kids. 3k more points and we’re going 4 nights in January.

I’ve only been with the family. Where should we stay if it’s just the wife and I? 

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Used to swirl in the Atlantic but now it’s so much larger it’s migrating across the Atlantic through the Caribbean. Climate change and fertilizer from west Africa and the Amazon are said to be the culprits. Mayan Riviera is toast.

35810bf5449d167f24fb183f7b66f3ac.jpg


Damn. That sucks.
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12 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

HOTEL SECRETO

Quote

We had a good bit of seaweed at Hotel Secreto's beach.  You aren't allowed in the water there so it didn't bother me much other than the occasional stank from it.

Does not compute.  I have only been one of the asshole tourists doing a day trip but would like to stay on the island next year.  Do you recommend a hotel that does not have a swimmable beach?  On a beach vacation.

I get it at Cabo because you go for the pools, but this is the Caribbean.  

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Yes.  Playa Norte is a 2 minute walk around the point if you want to get in the water.  Not everyone wants to stand in the water all day with a drink in their hand pissing in their pants.  Secreto also has a very nice pool right above the beach.

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13 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

Yes.  Playa Norte is a 2 minute walk around the point if you want to get in the water.  Not everyone wants to stand in the water all day with a drink in their hand pissing in their pants.  Secreto also has a very nice pool right above the beach.

True, but if they're anything like our family, they're in and out of the water off and on all morning and later in the afternoon, doing other stuff in between. We're very active in the water and on the beach, swimming, snorkeling, playing volleyball & football, etc. We love going all over the island, but we spend more time on Playa Norte than anywhere else on Isla. It's the primary reason for our trips to Isla, and we love having the Playa literally a few steps away.

From what we've seen, Secreto looks very nice, but it just wouldn't work out for us. Just a matter of activity preferences.

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5 hours ago, wood said:

True, but if they're anything like our family, they're in and out of the water off and on all morning and later in the afternoon, doing other stuff in between. We're very active in the water and on the beach, swimming, snorkeling, playing volleyball & football, etc. We love going all over the island, but we spend more time on Playa Norte than anywhere else on Isla. It's the primary reason for our trips to Isla, and we love having the Playa literally a few steps away.

From what we've seen, Secreto looks very nice, but it just wouldn't work out for us. Just a matter of activity preferences.

So what works?

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I am in Cancun now for a conference, not vacation. Hot and humid AF. 

The meeting is at the Breathless resort in Cancún Riviera. I cannot negatively recommend this place enough. We have stayed at other all inclusives in the greater Cancun area that were top notch. This place is like one of those resorts that got run over by a thousand middle aged people from SEC country trying to pretend they have a celebrity lifestyle. I think this Breathless chain is promoted as hip for young adults that like clubbing.

The “ribeye” at the steakhouse was less than 1cm thick and would probably run you about $3.50 at HEB. The poolside cabana grill was serving hotdogs and chicken strips out of chafing dishes. The international buffet offers pizza and sushi on par with what you could buy at a Valero station. The clientele population breakdown goes something like [no racist/agist]:

15% - young adults that are reasonably attractive from different nationalities looking to party, bachelor/bachelorette parties etc. 

10% - olds, many seem to be from UK and Germany and they are very out of place. You can see the regret in their eyes for coming here. 

15% - stereotypical Americans of all races, also a lot of regret on faces

20% - SEC white trash, regardless of where they are from or went to school (or not). Lots of fat people that should be covering up. Who goes to another country and drinks Coors Light at an all inclusive?

40% - overweight African Americans all over the age spectrum 25-60yo. (Non-fat AA’s were included in that 15% of normals above). They came to party and eat, and give no fucks. They are so loud at all hours, you’d think you were in a movie theatre watching a Tyler Perry marathon. At least their raucous joy tempers the despair of the olds and normals that can’t believe they blew their annual vacation fund on this. 

In conclusion, do not come to Breathless Riviera Cancun. If you insist, you could save some money and visit a water park in Mississippi or Alabama and get the same experience. 

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7 hours ago, wood said:

True, but if they're anything like our family, they're in and out of the water off and on all morning and later in the afternoon, doing other stuff in between. We're very active in the water and on the beach, swimming, snorkeling, playing volleyball & football, etc. We love going all over the island, but we spend more time on Playa Norte than anywhere else on Isla. It's the primary reason for our trips to Isla, and we love having the Playa literally a few steps away.

From what we've seen, Secreto looks very nice, but it just wouldn't work out for us. Just a matter of activity preferences.

It's not a hotel for families with kids.  It's fantastic for couples or a group of adults.  I understand your view.  It makes perfect sense.  I would hate the crowd at Ixchel, all the chairs lined up and packed in closely together but I can see the appeal for others.  😎

 

bigcigar asked for a recommendation for him and the wife.  That's why I suggested Secreto.  It's perfect if they want to be a little bit away from the crowd and away from kids for a few days.  Like I said, Playa Norte is a 2 minute walk around the point away.

Edited by VABuckeye
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3 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

It's not a hotel for families with kids.  It's fantastic for couples or a group of adults.  I understand your view.  It makes perfect sense.  I would hate the crowd at Ixchel, all the chairs lined up and packed in closely together but I can see the appeal for others.  😎

bigcigar asked for a recommendation for him and the wife.  That's why I suggested Secreto.  It's perfect if they want to be a little bit away from the crowd and away from kids for a few days.  Like I said, Playa Norte is a 2 minute walk around the point away.

 

4 hours ago, bigcigar said:

So what works?

There are a few nice options along Playa Norte. We like Ixchel and Nautibeach. Nautibeach is older and a bit cheaper in most cases I think. Ixchel is very nice imho. There are nicer places, but they cost a lot more. We've been staying at hotels along Playa Norte, mostly Ixchel, since long before we had kids, because it's right on the beach and we don't wanna have to pack stuff and walk or drive a kart to our favorite beach when that's the main reason we're there. If we need something from the room or want a drink or something to eat, we can go get it quickly. We can also order food & drinks from the waiters or from the grill just a minute away.

We don't spend a lot of time in the chairs even when we have them, and most days we don't even get them. We like being in the water more than looking at it. There's also a lot of room behind the chairs to do whatever. We're always moving up and down the beach & around the corner to the beach on the west side to different spots, doing different things. If it's too hot & someone wants to chill inside for a little while, we can check on them easily or just be right outside. We get out and explore all around the island almost every day, but we love coming "home" right on the beach and hanging out there into the evening before moving to the pool or into town to eat.

The only downside to the Playa Norte area for me is the occasional wedding or quinceanera that might be taking place at the palapa in front of Ixchel or down the beach at the big nice hotel whose name I can't remember. They're often loud af and go almost all night. Zero fucks given. But I imagine that's not the only part of the island where that can happen.

If you're there to hang out on a certain beach or in a certain area, then my rec is to stay somewhere right on that beach or right in that certain area. If location's not such a big deal, then yeah, there are lots of really great options.

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Secreto sounds appealing. We did a night at Ixchel with the kids before moving to a rental, and it’s definitely the perfect spot with kids. If we do Isla, Secreto + beach clubs might be a better fit.

Not Isla, but since we don’t have the kids, my wife says she may want to do some of the excursion stuff vs sit around the beach. If we’re doing cenotes/ruins, what’s the best home base? Tulum?

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1 hour ago, bigcigar said:

Secreto sounds appealing. We did a night at Ixchel with the kids before moving to a rental, and it’s definitely the perfect spot with kids. If we do Isla, Secreto + beach clubs might be a better fit.

Not Isla, but since we don’t have the kids, my wife says she may want to do some of the excursion stuff vs sit around the beach. If we’re doing cenotes/ruins, what’s the best home base? Tulum?

Best home base on that side of Mexico is Isla and only Isla. The sargassum problem and stench cannot be overstated.  At this point the only two places on the Yucatán coast I would ever consider are Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox because they are the only beaches without the sargassum problem, but Holbox is not a base for anything other than a max chill beach vacation. Isla Mujeres may not be super convenient but that’s where I’d stay even if I was going back for cenotes, ruins, etc. and I would just deal with the extra hour or so each way to make it work.  Sucks too because Tulum / Akumal is (was) a sick place to hang.

 

 

Edited by troph
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1 hour ago, bigcigar said:

Secreto sounds appealing. We did a night at Ixchel with the kids before moving to a rental, and it’s definitely the perfect spot with kids. If we do Isla, Secreto + beach clubs might be a better fit.

Not Isla, but since we don’t have the kids, my wife says she may want to do some of the excursion stuff vs sit around the beach. If we’re doing cenotes/ruins, what’s the best home base? Tulum?

Tulum is good & has some good food in town. I dunno about the food out closer to the beach. We've stayed in Akumal, the Tao resort just south of Akumal,  & Puerto Aventuras a few times & they're awesome as well. Can't say enough good things about the cenotes. If you haven't been, don't be afraid to get out and explore them. Our personal favorites are Cenote Azul (medium sized and very pretty, with a cliff you can jump from), and Dos Ojos - huge cave network fed by the underground river system, complete with guided tours that I highly recommend. People come from all over the world just to dive it. It's really fantastic. I think I may have posted some pics of it here or in the other place. I have to run, but I'll see if I can find some later. 

The seaweed problem is big along the coast, so sadly you won't be able to enjoy the awesome beaches over there, but using Isla as a base for excursions down the coast is kinda difficult & time-consuming. What we've done since the seaweed became a problem is just go do the cenotes etc first and not worry too much about the beaches there, and then move on to Isla and just do Isla. There are plenty of nice places to stay across the highway away from the water, where the stink won;t be a problem.

Edited by wood
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3 hours ago, troph said:

Best home base on that side of Mexico is Isla and only Isla. The sargassum problem and stench cannot be overstated.  At this point the only two places on the Yucatán coast I would ever consider are Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox because they are the only beaches without the sargassum problem

Good. Stay away from Cozumel. It's covered with sargassum. Everywhere. No beaches, just ironshore covered in stench. It's hard to breathe most days here. The cops will kill your whole family for whatever spare change you have in your pockets, then dump your bodies in the croc lagoons.

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Good. Stay away from Cozumel. It's covered with sargassum. Everywhere. No beaches, just ironshore covered in stench. It's hard to breathe most days here. The cops will kill your whole family for whatever spare change you have in your pockets, then dump your bodies in the croc lagoons.


Haha didn’t know Cozumel was clean - I heard there was plenty. Only been once and that was walking around the town further in past the hordes of cruise ship passengers.
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