Learn me on metal roofin

[Baboontyme 2820]

I promise not to start a thread about vinyl siding next or every single aspect of home construction. I'm seeing stuff all over the map. Initially our contractor told me 5-6x the cost of shingles which upon my research seems to be bullshit. I'm reading anywhere from 1.5-2x the cost of a traditional roof. I know there are some roofers on here @ROFL BOX. Not in TX so I'm sure mmmv but curious if there was real world recent experience on this board on the topic. 

 

[UTPhil2006 3809]

@deadshank can also assist

[deadshank 24653]

24 minutes ago, Baboontyme said:

I promise not to start a thread about vinyl siding next or every single aspect of home construction. I'm seeing stuff all over the map. Initially our contractor told me 5-6x the cost of shingles which upon my research seems to be bullshit. I'm reading anywhere from 1.5-2x the cost of a traditional roof. I know there are some roofers on here @ROFL BOX. Not in TX so I'm sure mmmv but curious if there was real world recent experience on this board on the topic. 

 

5 - 6 x the cost of composition shingles is about right.  If  you're seeing 1.5 - 2 x numbers then they aren't telling  you the full story and I call BS.

A simple roof design with as few plate lines, single and / or low roof pitch, few to no dormers, no dumbass chimneys splitting valleys, dead valleys and other grandiose architectural blunders will lead to a much easier cut sheet to compile and lead to a less expensive install.

You need to decide if you want exposed or hidden fasteners. 

Hidden fastener roofs are typical of what is known as standing seam metal roofs. There are a lot of differing profiles for standing seam roofs.  You can typically get a better deal if you find a metal roofing contractor that has his own portable panel extruding machine and will form the panels off of a coil and install at your project.  You will be limited to what particular panel style and width that his / her / they / them / its extruder can make.  One machine can't do every profile and width.  Make sure you standing seam metal roof will be G-90 Kynar 500 paint finish (20 year no-fade paint warranty).  Don't let them sell you the siliconized polyester finish.  If you are in or very near a salt air environment you will need to switch to aluminum with the Kynar 500 finish.

Exposed fastener roof panels systems are more like 5-V crimp or R panel roofs with a few variations on the R panel style.  Exposed fastener systems are typically installed on metal buildings, barns and light industrial buildings.  5-V crimp is a good looking style for a rustic look.

Your contractor installer should have his own sheet metal shop to lay out and form the accessory trim and flashing pieces.

Have your contractor install high-temp rated peel and stick membrane on the bare wood deck prior to installing the metal roof panels.

What else  you want to know?

[Guest]

If you roof guys had your way, what would we all have as our roofs?

I love the idea of metal roofing, but pricey. But holds up much longer, keeps cooler, easier to maintain. Asphalt shingle is the de facto method, but man it just seems like a dumb way to make a roof that holds out rain; let's put thousands of nail holes into something that's supposed to be watertight. Then the sun and hail tear it up. Spanish tile seems like a good idea as it last long, but pain in the ass if you break a tile.

Maybe some sort of roof that's made of plastic? I dunno.  Just seems like we're doing it wrong.

[Baboontyme 2820]

50 minutes ago, deadshank said:

5 - 6 x the cost of composition shingles is about right.  If  you're seeing 1.5 - 2 x numbers then they aren't telling  you the full story and I call BS.

A simple roof design with as few plate lines, single and / or low roof pitch, few to no dormers, no dumbass chimneys splitting valleys, dead valleys and other grandiose architectural blunders will lead to a much easier cut sheet to compile and lead to a less expensive install.

You need to decide if you want exposed or hidden fasteners. 

Hidden fastener roofs are typical of what is known as standing seam metal roofs. There are a lot of differing profiles for standing seam roofs.  You can typically get a better deal if you find a metal roofing contractor that has his own portable panel extruding machine and will form the panels off of a coil and install at your project.  You will be limited to what particular panel style and width that his / her / they / them / its extruder can make.  One machine can't do every profile and width.  Make sure you standing seam metal roof will be G-90 Kynar 500 paint finish (20 year no-fade paint warranty).  Don't let them sell you the siliconized polyester finish.  If you are in or very near a salt air environment you will need to switch to aluminum with the Kynar 500 finish.

Exposed fastener roof panels systems are more like 5-V crimp or R panel roofs with a few variations on the R panel style.  Exposed fastener systems are typically installed on metal buildings, barns and light industrial buildings.  5-V crimp is a good looking style for a rustic look.

Your contractor installer should have his own sheet metal shop to lay out and form the accessory trim and flashing pieces.

Have your contractor install high-temp rated peel and stick membrane on the bare wood deck prior to installing the metal roof panels.

What else  you want to know?

Thank you. This is more than I possibly could have wanted to know but certainly answers my questions. I am surprised, I had heard that costs had come way down. I will see what they come back with. This may be an investment worth undertaking. 

[deadshank 24653]

16 minutes ago, FirstTimeCaller said:

If you roof guys had your way, what would we all have as our roofs?

I love the idea of metal roofing, but pricey. But holds up much longer, keeps cooler, easier to maintain. Asphalt shingle is the de facto method, but man it just seems like a dumb way to make a roof that holds out rain; let's put thousands of nail holes into something that's supposed to be watertight. Then the sun and hail tear it up. Spanish tile seems like a good idea as it last long, but pain in the ass if you break a tile.

Maybe some sort of roof that's made of plastic? I dunno.  Just seems like we're doing it wrong.

You have architecture to consider when selecting a roof.  

We do plenty of comp shingle roofs.  The basic models are OK.  There are plenty of bettering looking and pricier comp shingles.

Metal is great but pricey and doesn't fit all architectural schemes.  Oak and pine trees can be hell on metal roof when they release tannic acid and stain the metal.  We do about $500K of metal roofs per year.

Slate is super pricey and will last forever.  Lots of options and quarries to chose from. We do about $1 M in slate per year.

Clay tile is superior to extruded concrete tiles.  Clay tile has lots of forms, finishes and colors. I've got some reclaimed clay tile in my bone yard that is over a 100 years old and as good as the day it came out of the kiln.  Concrete roof tiles are kinda cheap looking and will discolor from a naturally occurring algae prevalent on the Gulf Coast, the southeast and Pacific northwest.  Roof tiles won't break IF you know how to walk on them.  They can be a bad idea if you don't trim your trees back from the roof or insist on hanging Christmas lights on your roof. We do about $1M in clay tile roofing a year and not so much concrete anymore but a few here and there.

Wood shingles / shakes are great looking but freak people out because they think the house will burn down.  There are fire-retardants that are put in the western red and Alaskan yellow cedar products that with proper UL-rated underlayments can turn the roof system into a UL-rated Class "A" fire-retardant system just like comp shingles, metal, tile and slate.  We once installed a white oak shake roof on an incredible house in the Dallas area (road trip).  It was an incredible roof and house.

I do not like the polymer-based "synthetic / plastic" shakes / shingles / slates in Texas.  The UV rays are too strong and tend to fade the products, some of which turn white and others lose their luster and develop a flat and  hazy appearance.  They seem to do OK in northern latitudes.  Plastics / synthetics / fiber cement roof coverings have been tried over and over again.  They have all failed. The UV rays are just too much.  The ONLY one that seems to work is DaVinci Roofscapes but when done properly it is just as much as a slate roof; however, it is lightweight so it can be used to re-roof houses that aren't engineered for heavy roof covering dead loads.

Low-slope / flat roofs can be a booger bear if you don't know what you are doing. If you do know what your doing then you'll get only 15-20 years out of the roof covering.  I prefer self-adhering SBS modified bitumen over PVC or TPO single ply roofs.

[deadshank 24653]

24 minutes ago, Baboontyme said:

Thank you. This is more than I possibly could have wanted to know but certainly answers my questions. I am surprised, I had heard that costs had come way down. I will see what they come back with. This may be an investment worth undertaking. 

What market are you in?

[T’Boo Ted Marshall 2738]

Concrete roof is the way.

[Baboontyme 2820]

8 hours ago, deadshank said:

What market are you in?

SE Michigan. Northern Metro Detroit. 

[deadshank 24653]

8 minutes ago, Baboontyme said:

SE Michigan. Northern Metro Detroit. 

Oof.  Standing seam metal would be a good option for you. 
 

Full peel and stick membrane especially to ward off ice dams.  Snow guards above eaves.  Also, solar panels attach well to standing seam roofs.   

4 hours ago, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

Concrete roof is the way.

Concrete roof?  Like concrete tile or a structural concrete deck as a roof?

[Gil Bang 25987]

45 minutes ago, deadshank said:

Oof.  Standing seam metal would be a good option for you. 
 

Full peel and stick membrane especially to ward off ice dams.  Snow guards above eaves.  Also, solar panels attach well to standing seam roofs.   

Concrete roof?  Like concrete tile or a structural concrete deck as a roof?

concrete deck still gets a membrane out here.  Last time I was on one, the membrane had "firestone" logos all over it. 

[T’Boo Ted Marshall 2738]

Concrete roof?  Like concrete tile or a structural concrete deck as a roof?

Tile. FIL installed the Monier LifeTile over 30 years ago. It has held up extremely well.

[Gil Bang 25987]

39 minutes ago, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

Tile. FIL installed the Monier LifeTile over 30 years ago. It has held up extremely well

Tile is great, but the underlayment has a limited life.  I'm sure that there's new shit that I'm not aware of, but, a tile roof that was laid over felt is going to fail at some point. 

[deadshank 24653]

9 hours ago, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

Tile. FIL installed the Monier LifeTile over 30 years ago. It has held up extremely well.

They will last a while.  We’ve installed lots of them over the years. The problem is algae blooms in certain geographic area and color fade.  Extruded concrete roof tile have a color applied finish which will eventually wear off

 

9 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

concrete deck still gets a membrane out here.  Last time I was on one, the membrane had "firestone" logos all over it. 

Probably structural concrete that got a coat of applied primer then a modified bitumen membrane system. Firestone makes mod bit roofing and also EPDM rubber roofs 

 

8 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

Tile is great, but the underlayment has a limited life.  I'm sure that there's new shit that I'm not aware of, but, a tile roof that was laid over felt is going to fail at some point. 

Two layers of ASTM D-226 #30 felt paper is the minimum requirement for moderate zones.   Houston is considered to be in the moderate zone.  Using the minimum would be foolhardy.   Good roofing contractors will use one layer of high temp rates IWS (Grace, Carlyle, Polyglass, etc) covered by a high- grade synthetic felt paper. 
 

Roofing nerds are the worst nerds.  

[Tailgate 3022]

Plain metal roof here. Darker colors reflect up to 40% less sun. 
 

I’ll never do another style roof in a heat zone.

[ROFL BOX 6649]

On 8/10/2022 at 9:51 PM, Tailgate said:

Plain metal roof here. Darker colors reflect up to 40% less sun.

Wait... what?

& Apologies for not responding to your tag, @Baboontyme - my notifications that come through email get swamped by a metric shit-tonne of spammish crap (it happens when you've been using the same account as a primary for 20+ years).

& @deadshank has filled in the blanks quite well.  Exceptionally, actually.  He does a lot more business in those differing types of roofing & especially some custom stuff.

Back to the OP question.  @Baboontyme, that $$ you were quoted - is it from a GC or from a roof specific contractor?  If from a contractor, I have an established network of people all across America (@deadshank knows what I'm talking about) & I can tie you in if that's a possibility.  Lemme know.

*When it comes to tile & related products (Spanish / S / Slate, etc) the quick conversation is "ALL of them leak.  It's the underlayment, penetrations, hip & ridge, roof to wall joints & prep work that keeps the water out."  The topmmost components (the parts you see) that give you the preferred appearance & keep the sun (UV rays) from destroying everything.  Think of how a generic blue tarp holds up in the sun & how its gonna look in 6 months vs. a common brick that sits in your yard.

To the question about "why do we have 'rapidly deteriorating products for roofing', that's akin to the "Yeah, there is an actual cure for cancer - it's "THEY" that don't want you to know how to defeat it & THEY want you to keep paying for cancer treatments, Rx's, etc."  I mean - seriously - everything needs replacing or maintenance.  Even fiber cement siding products need the paint worked on & a generic 3 Tab ("20 year shingle") can easily get to 25 years / a generic Dimensional / Architectural (30 year shingle) can get to 35 years before it's time to remove (the shingles that get beyond that & are primarily suffering from UV rays as the aging problem begin to come up in smaller / easily torn parts & it takes 2x to 3x the amount of labor & effort to remove them.  & Of course there can be damage to the roof deck if there are other age related leaks.

One variety of roof panel in the "Hidden Fastener" systems that @deadshank didn't mention is a Snap Lock panel.  If considering a metal panel for my own uses / needs, I would go with as bright a white color as possible & use a Snap Lock in the new(er) vertical seam.  You can easily disassemble panels if needed & do repairs.  Think the possibility of a tree branch falling or the neighbor's fence / trampoline / lawn furniture bouncing off the roof - in most situations, a Snap Lock can easily be undone with a rubber mallet & screwdriver.  Repairs to a mechanically joined Standing Seam panel system are difficult because once you

[ originally fold / seam - unfold to try repairs - try to seam / fold the panels back together ]... that's 3 bends & the metal is probably going to end up breaking on one of the folds.  Before long, the repair panel is going to break.  Then you have to put in a new panel & that next joint over is gonna break as well  before it's over, you removed & replaced an entire section.  We're going through that on a repair for a $ 750,000+ dollar custom house out here in Drip.  Zero trees but there is a leak @ a pitch change on the back porch & it's got a vaulted ceiling with zero attic (look up, see very pretty 1x6' & there's not much above that other than 2x8's, insulation, *maybe?* [Decking?  Battens?] & then the metal panels.  Builders @ best give a 1 year warranty - your new refrigerator for the new house is given a longer warranty.

Pic 1 is the repair we are discussing with the property owner (the dark parts are ponding water that has dust, pollen & other airborne bits settling in it (not uncommon (but is generally over where the water penetration is showing through the vaulted 1x6's & inside the house).

Pic 2 is the common Snap Lock profile & view for the newer systems.  Keep in mind that there are very few actual roof profiles & Company A wants you to think they have some trademarked & exclusive panel while Company B who also has the same profile wants you to know THEY have the actual better panel with ThEiR trademarked name.

Don't go with an exposed fastener roof if you can avoid it - there is no reason to take a perfectly good piece of metal & start poking thousands of tiny liabilities all over it.  Concealed Fastener (Snap Lock) is the way to go.

*Addendum:  Insurance will typically classify a proper metal system as having a 50 year life span.  This is needed info regarding depreciation due to a loss.  Do NOT, EVER, in ANY CIRCUMSTANCE sign a "Cosmetic Waiver" for your metal roof system (whether stone coated steel or whatever).  *YES* there ARE discounts available.  However you can get premature rusting due to the clearcoat being cracked & insurance will argue (not want to pay) due to what they say is "cosmetic" damage & now you have a protracted fight on your hands.  Any potential property buyer would see the dents & that's a hassle.

 

[C-Man 27247]

2 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

*Addendum:  Insurance will typically classify a proper metal system as having a 50 year life span.  This is needed info regarding depreciation due to a loss.  Do NOT, EVER, in ANY CIRCUMSTANCE sign a "Cosmetic Waiver" for your metal roof system (whether stone coated steel or whatever).  *YES* there ARE discounts available.  However you can get premature rusting due to the clearcoat being cracked & insurance will argue (not want to pay) due to what they say is "cosmetic" damage & now you have a protracted fight on your hands.  Any potential property buyer would see the dents & that's a hassle.

 

Metal roofs can be a real problem with insurance depending on where you are in the country. Some of the HNW carriers are declining to offer terms full stop on homes with metal roofs in hail-prone states. Others are starting to add "cosmetic damage exclusion" verbiage to their contracts. It's my understanding many middle market/direct writers already INCLUDE cosmetic damage exclusion language in their contracts.

[ROFL BOX 6649]

What's an "HNW" carrier?  Don't think that means "Houston & NW"...

If the cosmetic waiver is automatically included, I am waiting on someone to file suit & then 10 years later we get a resolved standard to go by.

Additionally, i have heard that some carriers have started NOT providing any added or discount coverage for a Class IV shingle that is supposedly going to bounce most hail / survive high winds (under, maybe 150 mph).  Their logic is "If YOU , the shingle manufacturer, say this shingle will survive the hail & it gets damaged, then YOU need to be providing the replacement, not us."

[deadshank 24653]

1 hour ago, C-Man said:

Metal roofs can be a real problem with insurance depending on where you are in the country. Some of the HNW carriers are declining to offer terms full stop on homes with metal roofs in hail-prone states. Others are starting to add "cosmetic damage exclusion" verbiage to their contracts. It's my understanding many middle market/direct writers already INCLUDE cosmetic damage exclusion language in their contracts.

All quotes we send out for metal roofing alerts  the end user as to the cosmetic damage waiver / clause. 

[Baboontyme 2820]

Man thank you both. You are speaking way above my head on the topic and I'm not really the type to get into the weeds on something like this. I don't even have an actual quote yet. The GC who is doing our remodel doesn't seem to have much experience with metal roofs and said the last time they quoted one it was years ago and it was about 6x the cost. I had just done some poking around online and at first blush they seemed to be much lower. I am waiting to hear back from the GC. I did some rough calculations and it looks like the area that would need coverage is about 1500 sq ft. I may take you up on your contact ROFL depending on what they come back with. I know there are some decent sized metal roofing companies around here. Erie is one that comes to mind. Thank you again. 

[C-Man 27247]

37 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

What's an "HNW" carrier?  Don't think that means "Houston & NW"...

If the cosmetic waiver is automatically included, I am waiting on someone to file suit & then 10 years later we get a resolved standard to go by.

Additionally, i have heard that some carriers have started NOT providing any added or discount coverage for a Class IV shingle that is supposedly going to bounce most hail / survive high winds (under, maybe 150 mph).  Their logic is "If YOU , the shingle manufacturer, say this shingle will survive the hail & it gets damaged, then YOU need to be providing the replacement, not us."

Sorry -- HNW = "High Net Worth" carriers such as Chubb, AIG, PURE, Cincinnati, Berkley One, Vault and Nationwide Private Client Group

And, yes, some are not giving credits for the Class IV roofs anymore as they're learning they're not as resistant to Texas (and other state's) hailstorms the last decade or so.

[deadshank 24653]

2 hours ago, C-Man said:

Sorry -- HNW = "High Net Worth" carriers such as Chubb, AIG, PURE, Cincinnati, Berkley One, Vault and Nationwide Private Client Group

And, yes, some are not giving credits for the Class IV roofs anymore as they're learning they're not as resistant to Texas (and other state's) hailstorms the last decade or so.

The thing is they are “resistant” to hail stones.  They are not “hail proof.”  
 

They help prevent leaks that cause far more damage and  potential increased dollar reserves for repairs / replacement.  
 

The cosmetic part is the problem.  Nobody wants a dented lid on top of their house which is still watertight but very ugly.   
 

And, of course, the ICs don’t want to pay for expensive metal roof replacements.  

[High Plains Drifter 11050]

 

15 years ago we bought a house that had a completely destroyed shingle roof. I called around and got a couple of estimates for metal roofs: one for standing seam and one for exposed fasteners (or whatever they are called). I liked the standing seam look, and was assured by the two roofing companies I talked to that standing seam was better, but the standing seam was way more pricier, so we went with the exposed fasteners.

15 years later, all still good. I guess at some point i need to get my ass up there and check the seals on the fasteners?

 

edit to add: Seems like we got a small reduction in our homeowners insurance for going with a metal roof instead of a shingle. I think.

 

Edited August 30, 2022 by High Plains Drifter

[ROFL BOX 6649]

You're not really examining the gaskets, you are checking screw tension / looking to see if the screws are snug.

Get a cordless drill with a torque setting - put it on 3 or 4 & some hex head sockets that are sized for your screws (more than likely you have the common "TEKS" type as sold in Home Depot).

 

Try every screw; it is best to go horizontal & then up the next course (don't know if you're R handed or a Southpaw).  If you have even ONE that spins out, there is zero way of knowing if the wood is bad & unrepairable under the panel or if it's just stripped out.  You can go after one size larger & see if that works or you can seal over the hole with a quality metal specific elastomeric product & then add in a new screw 1-1/2 to 2 inches over to the L or R if that same spot.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  If you have what's sometimes referred to as a "Lap Guard" or "Channel Guard" panel, do NOT ever put a screw in the dead middle of the lap joint (where one panel ends & another starts over it) & don't put a screw in the furthest 'outside' portion of the "over" panel (see 2 pics, 2nd is as clean a closeup as I can provide).

 

 

 

 

If you ever DO go for an exposed fastener system (again, I strongly advise against it), use a "ZAC Long - Life" screw (next pic).

 

[ROFL BOX 6649]

@High Plains Drifter, if you DO have that deduction then it means you have agreed to the Cosmetic Waiver as discussed prior.  Assuming you don't ever have high wind or hail in your area, you shouldn't have any issues.

If you DO get hail dings, be prepared for a fight.

[High Plains Drifter 11050]

 

Thanks @ROFL BOX. If the roof is 15 years old, is it time to haul my ass up there?

 

 

[RPM 26335]

I put a metal roof on about 15 years ago after a storm damaged a few shingles. Went to the local metal supplier and bought plain galvalume R-panel (screws came with it). Screwed it straight to the shingle roof. It's survived plenty of storms with no damage. The only maintenance I've had to do is reseal the ridge where squirrels pulled the foam seal out. Even got a tax credit for energy efficient home improvement.

[ROFL BOX 6649]

13 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

Thanks @ROFL BOX. The roof is 15 years old, so I guess I should have hauled my ass up there 1o years ago.

 

 

The sorta secret (not one I keep hidden, mind you) is that after 1st installing an exposed screw system, you should tension everything (or check for tension) every 5 years or so.  Maybe do the 1st tension check 5 years post install & max 10 years after that.

Remember, metal is MUCH more slick than shingles - you def. don't wanna get up there in the AM if there's even the slightest of overnight condensation & obv. stay off if there's been any kind of light mist.

Tie off to something on the other side of the house.  Getcha one of these from Homer Despot - it's often called 'OSHA compliance in a bucket".  Spend a bit over a hundo; it's less than an insurance deductible.

[ROFL BOX 6649]

13 hours ago, RPM said:

I put a metal roof on about 15 years ago after a storm damaged a few shingles. Went to the local metal supplier and bought plain galvalume R-panel (screws came with it). Screwed it straight to the shingle roof. It's survived plenty of storms with no damage. The only maintenance I've had to do is reseal the ridge where squirrels pulled the foam seal out. Even got a tax credit for energy efficient home improvement.

You wuz cheated.  They should have said "Hey, howz boutz this "channel guard" (or Rain Guard, or whatever they call it) panel?" (see up above in my pics).

That's a lot better product than ugly ass barn metal.

[High Plains Drifter 11050]

 

Thanks again ROF.

 

 

[Jkwellborn 6718]

Sorry -- HNW = "High Net Worth" carriers such as Chubb, AIG, PURE, Cincinnati, Berkley One, Vault and Nationwide Private Client Group
And, yes, some are not giving credits for the Class IV roofs anymore as they're learning they're not as resistant to Texas (and other state's) hailstorms the last decade or so.

What’s the difference between hail in Texas and somewhere else?

[Jkwellborn 6718]

The sorta secret (not one I keep hidden, mind you) is that after 1st installing an exposed screw system, you should tension everything (or check for tension) every 5 years or so.  Maybe do the 1st tension check 5 years post install & max 10 years after that.
Remember, metal is MUCH more slick than shingles - you def. don't wanna get up there in the AM if there's even the slightest of overnight condensation & obv. stay off if there's been any kind of light mist.
Tie off to something on the other side of the house.  Getcha one of these from Homer Despot - it's often called 'OSHA compliance in a bucket".  Spend a bit over a hundo; it's less than an insurance deductible.

Got a scar on my hand where that happened. Working on a barn and slipped. Screw head went into my hand.

[RDCanecutter 26462]

On 8/29/2022 at 8:54 PM, deadshank said:

The cosmetic part is the problem.  Nobody wants a dented lid on top of their house which is still watertight but very ugly.   

I dunno, man. Waterproof roof that pisses off some of my uppity neighbors? Sounds like heaven. I'd probably crawl around on it with a ballpeen hammer.

[C-Man 27247]

20 hours ago, Jkwellborn said:

What’s the difference between hail in Texas and somewhere else?

Frequency and severity. Check this map out:

 

https://www.geographyrealm.com/geography-hail-united-states/

[deadshank 24653]

4 hours ago, C-Man said:

Frequency and severity. Check this map out:

 

https://www.geographyrealm.com/geography-hail-united-states/

The reason for gulf coasters to not worry about impact resistant roof coverings.   

 

[ROFL BOX 6649]

On 9/5/2022 at 4:47 PM, deadshank said:

The reason for gulf coasters to not worry about impact resistant roof coverings.   

 

This chart is for impact ratings (Class I to IV) & the next link is for "Underwriter Labs Class 90" (wind resistance).  Coastal residents need to focus on the wind issue & impact resistance (while important) is secondary.

 

The link will open up a .pdf, so it is suggested to review that one from a "real" computer vs. your phone.

 

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiJ3qe9zYj6AhWBFFkFHeGYBEEQFnoECAEQAw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.berridge.com%2Fresources%2Ful-90-uplift-ratings%2F&usg=AOvVaw2A_MnsIUbCatHqjCy3TjfW

[TeeDubya 3362]

On 9/1/2022 at 9:50 PM, ROFL BOX said:

 

Tie off to something on the other side of the house.  Getcha one of these from Homer Despot - it's often called 'OSHA compliance in a bucket".  Spend a bit over a hundo; it's less than an insurance deductible.

This.  Money well spent.  Gravity is a relentless, hunting bitch.