Jump to content

Classic Car thread


TexasEd

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, PittsburghTiger said:

WOW! This is cool, except for the techno music.

Right now my old-timer Buick is in the shop getting some restomod-ing done so it will be available to use this summer after Armageddon.

Like the front end. The rear end looks like a Camaro from this angle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Grippe said:

I really don't think there is a more iconic race car than this - the livery and prominence are familiar and beloved worldwide.

Yup.  Slightly off-topic, but the story of Gulf is fascinating.  It was merged into Chevron and ceased to exist.  But some entity bought and maintained the branding and trademarks and you see the odd Gulf station periodically.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, TwiceHorn said:

Yup.  Slightly off-topic, but the story of Gulf is fascinating.  It was merged into Chevron and ceased to exist.  But some entity bought and maintained the branding and trademarks and you see the odd Gulf station periodically.

I agree, but we still have the Gulf Tower in Pittsburgh.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/8/2020 at 9:06 PM, Anastasis said:

sigh.  eventually they will open the title and registration tax offices in Texas. 

 

Serious question: How much of a risk would I be running to swap plates with one of my other cars and take a cruise down hamilton pool road. 

I'd purchase a set of period plates.  You'll take the to the title and registration office when you can to have them inspected and registered.  I've purchased them off of ebay in the past.  Most recent pair I purchased from this guy:  https://www.licenseplateinfo.com/fsot/texas.html

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/15/2020 at 10:56 AM, Onboard 2.0 said:

The only truly correct answer ^^^^

Yeah.  After posting the link, I decided to purchase another set - only three digits off of the pair I purchased back in the fall.  I'm running 1969 Texas Truck plates on my C-10.  If anyone here drives a 1968 car in Texas without the Hemisfair plate, I weep for you.  Coolest possible Texas plate IMHO.

Edited by Jerry Callo
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I was already planning to order a set of the hemisfair plates.  According to that site you linked, there is an overlapping range with some plates in teh early 2000s and you have to check the numbers with your local tax assessors office.  Maybe I'll just get on ebay and call in a few numbers to them and see if they can run for duplicates. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do like that lots of other 70's colors. Wish they brought more back. Some options, however should stay in 70's. Good friend I ran track with had his Dad's flaming yellow Cuda with the flower power mod top. No way to claim what ever you were caught doing was someone else in the same car. Probably only one of that option in entire state

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my hemisfair plates in this week.  Threw them on and took a ride with the family.  Still haven't titled and registered, but it was just too good of a day to get the kids out of the house and go for a ride. Ran across a nice little shelby cobra replica doing the same.  Traded horn bumps and for a few minutes all the nonsense of the world right now was forgotten. 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Anastasis said:

Got my hemisfair plates in this week.  Threw them on and took a ride with the family.  Still haven't titled and registered, but it was just too good of a day to get the kids out of the house and go for a ride. Ran across a nice little shelby cobra replica doing the same.  Traded horn bumps and for a few minutes all the nonsense of the world right now was forgotten. 

As soon as the pollen abates I'm out there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, tbone_ said:

Gotta make it stop before you make it go. 1st thing I did was replace ever single component of the brake system on the Firebird when I got it. All the way down to the pedal.

Good advice. The first thing I added to my Mustang was (4) sets of 3 point seat belts. The second thing I did was replace the single bowl Master cylinder with a dual bowl, and the rear drum brake lines.  The previous owner had already added front discs, and new lines.  That would have been the third thing I would have done.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced all my lines and my front drums to disc from a company from Marble Falls, CSRP.  Some guys on a Mustang forum advised to have a pro install the system, for safety purposes, but I did it with no problem at all. Bleeding it took a little trial and effort, but no big deal.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Mach 1 said:

I replaced all my lines and my front drums to disc from a company from Marble Falls, CSRP.  Some guys on a Mustang forum advised to have a pro install the system, for safety purposes, but I did it with no problem at all. Bleeding it took a little trial and effort, but no big deal.

Not that hard. I made my own lines from stock tubing when I swapped out the master cylinder.  It's not rocket science, it's just tedious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/3/2020 at 10:35 AM, Mother mopar said:

Got the brake rebuilt and installed on the car yesterday. Now I need to rebuild the brake/clutch pedal assy.

Before and after pixa143775168aa4d5033492c45138cd495.jpg35a90d7f36045250426c45df89330ace.jpg

So I found out today my paint guy wedged that pedal away from the housing and the spring was gone and pedal laying on the floor.  Fucker, guess it got in the way of something.  Luckily had the original spring/pedal, pried it apart, and was able to put it back on the replacement.

Getting a new parking brake on a tensioned correctly is not fun.

Yours looks concourse!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Not that hard. I made my own lines from stock tubing when I swapped out the master cylinder.  It's not rocket science, it's just tedious.

Might go that route next project. I was shocked how well the pre bent Mustang lines came from NPD - or maybe CJ - can't recall but I think they all come from same supplier. Very little bending necessary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can we talk fluids for a second.  What kind of oil, etc are you guys running.  dino vs. synth with these older engines. Gas, etc.  I don't really have a history but I am assuming a rebuild.  I know that I have the original block, but dont know what work has been done on the heads etc. Do I just run dino or can I convert to mobil 1? Do I need to run lead additive every once in a while? Or just keep running premium grade unleaded.

Took a tour with one of the kids this afternoon.  Picked up a new top boot that color matches the interior as opposed to the black one.  

D0776-E44-77-D4-457-E-AB03-240-FB86-CEC1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

0b0d2b103446913943e66f3badef8ca2.jpg

 

My guy says not to use synthetic, leaks too bad through the rope seals, which really don’t work that well. Supposed to have the zinc additive for something in these old engines.

 

 

I just run 91 octane in mine. Not sure of the rebuild either but my guys says compression was pretty high when he tested it. Sometimes I’ll run a tank of 95 octane but not very often. Runs fine. I’ve never had to even have a tune up in 6 years.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The type of oil you a run will depend on the type of cam you run. 99% of old muscle cars had flat tappet cams and required dino oil with high ZDDP. The additional additives and zinc will prevent you from wiping a cam lobe. Ask me how I know. When people rebuild engines and add roller cams this alleviates the need for the ZDDP additives as rollers have a different type of "interface" on the cam e.g. roller lifters instead of a flat face with a hydraulic lifter.

If you have a flat tappet cam you have to run an oil (dino or synthetic) that has ZDDP. Most conventional oils now have low ZDDP as majority of new cars use roller cams, negating the need for this additive.

I use brad penn racing oil and I've never wiped a lobe in all my years in Mopars but it has ALOT of zinc. However, I also have used rotella and added comp cams additive and worked just fine too.

Most oil will work (with an additive) but do your research. I'd rather pay $10 a quart to save me $350 for a new cam/lifters plus the time to rebuilt it. I'd suggest that you have your oil analyzed as that will give you a health indicator of your engine internals. I love Blackstone laboratories and their reports are very detailed.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

How old/new is the re build ?  A new re build would probably use lead free components.  No to the synthetic oil.

 

8 minutes ago, Chad Fuck said:

Tripling down on the no synthetic. I had a friend who ran it after rebuilding an old Mustang in high school. He never could keep it from leaking after that.

No idea how old the rebuild is.  I am assuming mid 90s. 

Yeah, that is what I have heard about the synthetic stuff. Never heard of the zinc additive thing before. 

Edited by Anastasis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can really go down a rabbit hole on engine oil and oil change intervals.  At one time, I kind of did and picked up a few things that seem to be generally true.

One is that synthetic oil may be overrated or even suboptimal for engines not designed for it (where it can be huge in preventing detonation), which seems to go double for much older or high-mileage engine.

Another is that one of the best "oil change" results occurs when you have to add fresh dino oil between changes.  The Oil Guy found that that was a pretty optimal situation, so a slow leak or minor consumption, if otherwise tolerable, may give your engine optimal lubrication.

In other words, there doesn't seem to be any imperative to convert from dino to synthetic, particularly for older engines.  And don't be too anxious to fix a slow leak or consumption, sometimes they are a bug hunt anyway.

YMMV, but food for thought.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/5/2020 at 10:24 PM, Mach 1 said:

I replaced all my lines and my front drums to disc from a company from Marble Falls, CSRP.  Some guys on a Mustang forum advised to have a pro install the system, for safety purposes, but I did it with no problem at all. Bleeding it took a little trial and effort, but no big deal.

I used the same system, no problems.  Even drove up there to pick up the kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back when I lived in Broward County, this guy lived across the street from us.  He's got quite the livery; only 1 kid & has been divorced for prob. 18 years now, so his funding wasn't dented by the rest of life's foibles.

Apparently still has his '73 Z28 RS, LT1 equipped.  No pics on his FB page other than a couple from racing it.  I'll have to dig around to find those pics as well.  Also has another Camaro,

 

Current rides include both a 1980 & a 2018 Vette & he has this '67 Chevy II (IMO, that has the best "back half" of any muscle car, ever) & the Nova has dyno'd 530 hp in a 2,670 # car.

 

Image may contain: car and outdoor

 

Image may contain: car

 

 

Image may contain: car and outdoor

Dart small block 454.

No photo description available.

 

 

 

 

 

Image may contain: car and outdoor

 

 

Image may contain: car

 

No photo description available.

 

 

Image may contain: car and outdoor

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...