Classic Car thread

[TexasEd 8146]

Saw in the wild 

[Anastasis 23512]

Happy to report the ac issue was just a disconnected wire near the firewall where they replaced the brake booster. 

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

4 minutes ago, Anastasis said:

Happy to report the ac issue was just a disconnected wire near the firewall where they replaced the brake booster. 

What power steering system did you go with ?

[Anastasis 23512]

3 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

What power steering system did you go with ?

The original Ford system. Figured I’d make a run at keeping it close to original and if we still have issues pull it for the retrofit. 

[ChickenSandwich 9856]

On 4/30/2021 at 9:06 PM, Prepuce of Doom said:

I hope that Mustang is a Boss (Hogg) variant to go with the Genital Lee. 

Door says GT 500. Not sure if legit. 

[Prepuce of Doom 21118]

1 hour ago, ChickenSandwich said:

Door says GT 500. Not sure if legit. 

And the Duke boys drove a '69 - just got carried away as soon as I saw the whip antenna on the rear deck lid... 

[PittsburghTiger 6241]

On 4/10/2021 at 9:55 PM, Patricio Swayze said:

Took a few shots of a 1956 Mercury Montclair today.  Head over to the photography thread for the full story.

I also saw this MG on the way home...

I love the muted/softened lines on that Mercury.

[Prepuce of Doom 21118]

Today is my late mother's birthday, so the boy and I took a long walk to go check out the progress on her car that I've inherited - should be ready by the end of the week. Better pictures to come then... 

My guy had a really raucous GTO in the neighboring bay, and a numbers matching Road Runner parked in front. The boy enjoyed the demonstration of the "meep meep" horn. 

 

 

[TexasEd 8146]

Spotted in the wild 

[Prepuce of Doom 21118]

Home from the shop today - still needs a detailing... 

And a few more pictures of the Road Runner and a sweet little Corvette. 

 

[conVINCEd 21474]

10 hours ago, Prepuce of Doom said:

Home from the shop today - still needs a detailing... 

And a few more pictures of the Road Runner and a sweet little Corvette. 

 

Range Rover where it truly belongs, the shop.

[ChickenSandwich 9856]

He finally brought her out. 
 

 

[Mach 1 1677]

My engine's been really sluggish lately, hesitating/stumbling in first gear.  Research says it's fuel intake, air intake, or a combination of both.  I was going to just turn in the carb to my guy but decided to take a shot at adjusting the carb myself.

First tweak was the accelator pump.  Two positions available, so I moved it over to the more aggressive one.

Next was throttle position.  My carb has four positions top to bottom, again moved it to most aggressive position (all the way up).

A buddy suggested I check the float - sometimes they sit too low in the bowl and slow fuel from getting to the jets.  Sure enough it was, so I bent it up so the float is parallel with the top lip of the carb, reportedly the correct position.

That took care of fuel intake, so now to air.  Nothing blocking anything inside, all clean.  Let's check the air filter, shall we?

For fuck's sake, after a 2 year restoration, loads done to the car, I never changed the 20 plus year old air filter.  Well, now I have.

And voila, all engine hesitation gone.  I'm going to break it in a little more then try to lay some rubber.

[Jkwellborn 6878]

He finally brought her out. 
 
 

Fuck that is a beautiful car. I wish it was mine.

[ChickenSandwich 9856]

Sounds nasty 

Hes got 10 tires in the garage as well. 

Edited May 9, 2021 by ChickenSandwich

[mr.goodkat 464]

On 3/22/2021 at 4:51 PM, Horn of Gabriel said:

We went back to the OEM style 26" radiator.  It's a Griffin ExactFit, it is aluminum but it's down flow instead of the undersized cross flow that was in there.

 

Yes, we have a shroud on it now.

does it only get that warm when a/c cycling ? if so what refrigerant are you running ? what do head pressures look like ? 

[Patricio Swayze 17058]

1963 Studebaker Avanti I saw in Galveston.  Reading that less than 5,000 of these cars were made.

[PittsburghTiger 6241]

9 hours ago, Patricio Swayze said:

1963 Studebaker Avanti I saw in Galveston.  Reading that less than 5,000 of these cars were made.

the only good thing to ever come out of South Bend, Indiana.

[Horn of Gabriel 1864]

On 5/10/2021 at 3:38 PM, mr.goodkat said:

does it only get that warm when a/c cycling ? if so what refrigerant are you running ? what do head pressures look like ? 

It actually cools off now when the A/C is on, because we have a supplemental electric fan that kicks on w/ the a/c system.  Not sure what refrigerant is in the Classic Air systems, but they're modern so I'm sure it's up-to-date w/ current regulations and technology.  Not sure on head pressures, the engine was just rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder and I have all those stats somewhere but there were all in spec.  Putting the shroud on really helped a lot, as did wrapping the headers.  It hovers around 190-200 in normal driving now, might go to 210-215 at a light but usually not beyond that.

[Anastasis 23512]

43 minutes ago, Horn of Gabriel said:

It actually cools off now when the A/C is on, because we have a supplemental electric fan that kicks on w/ the a/c system.

Thinking of adding an electric fan cause I really want to roll a July 4 parade without risking overheating.  Care to share some specs on your setup?

[mr.goodkat 464]

1 hour ago, Horn of Gabriel said:

It actually cools off now when the A/C is on, because we have a supplemental electric fan that kicks on w/ the a/c system.  Not sure what refrigerant is in the Classic Air systems, but they're modern so I'm sure it's up-to-date w/ current regulations and technology.  Not sure on head pressures, the engine was just rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder and I have all those stats somewhere but there were all in spec.  Putting the shroud on really helped a lot, as did wrapping the headers.  It hovers around 190-200 in normal driving now, might go to 210-215 at a light but usually not beyond that.

i was referring to the a/c system pressures . i've had my ass handed to me with a partially restricted condensor that would stack heat . it was super subtle forever just slightly heat up then well more so . 

[Horn of Gabriel 1864]

3 hours ago, mr.goodkat said:

i was referring to the a/c system pressures . i've had my ass handed to me with a partially restricted condensor that would stack heat . it was super subtle forever just slightly heat up then well more so . 

Ah I'd have to ask the shop on that, I know they pressurized it to spec but not sure about ongoing pressure measurements.  The engine however was overheating even with the a/c off; the Mopar 383 just runs hot!  Lower t-stat, better radiator, shroud, header wraps, tuned TBEFI made it better...just money...<cries>

[Horn of Gabriel 1864]

4 hours ago, Anastasis said:

Thinking of adding an electric fan cause I really want to roll a July 4 parade without risking overheating.  Care to share some specs on your setup?

It's a small electric pusher fan on the front of the radiator that's connected via relay to the a/c system...I'll see if I can grab some pics for you

[Mother mopar 3343]

If you need AC your not going fast enough . Serious note AC is nice but it does come with it's own issues...trade-offs.

[tbone_ 14259]

I have a parade fan on my firebird. Doesn’t do shit that I can tell.

What did do shit was a new two core radiator with big ass tubes, putting the correct fan blade back in, and something else but I forget exactly what. Went from running 210 to 170-180. Point is that I can idle at a light or traffic much longer when starting at 180 than 210.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

Sometimes its the really simple things.  A fan shroud will help cool an engine more than you'd think it would.

[tbone_ 14259]

I remember the other thing now, there is a metal baffle that goes under the front end of the car that forces the air coming through the grill to go through the radiator and not under the car. Those are missing on most old firebirds. And hard to find. But I tracked on down and made a big difference.

Probably not unlike the fan shroud idea.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

5 minutes ago, tbone_ said:

I remember the other thing now, there is a metal baffle that goes under the front end of the car that forces the air coming through the grill to go through the radiator and not under the car. Those are missing on most old firebirds. And hard to find. But I tracked on down and made a big difference.

Probably not unlike the fan shroud idea.

Low tech is sometimes the best tech.

[Mach 1 1677]

20 hours ago, Anastasis said:

Thinking of adding an electric fan cause I really want to roll a July 4 parade without risking overheating.  Care to share some specs on your setup?

Like Gabriel I added a push fan on the front of the radiator.  That combined with the pull of the mechanical fan really helps.  Also the shroud.

Take some measurements and see how much clearance you have.  I didn't have much so I went with an ultra thin (1.75 inches) compared to the normal 3 inch wide ones.

I think all of them require you to buy a thermostat/power connection.  I found the thermostats to be completely unreliable or a PIA to install, so I ditched it and hooked the fan up directly to the ignition terminal on my starter solenoid.  So when the car is on the fan is on all the time.  I hear the downside to this is it wears the fan out prematurely, but I don't give a shit, I'll just replace it.

"I" terminal is in the middle on right side (red wire with gray tape).

 

Edited May 12, 2021 by Mach 1
Damn that wiring looks janky, need to clean that up

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

1 hour ago, Mach 1 said:

Like Gabriel I added a push fan on the front of the radiator.  That combined with the pull of the mechanical fan really helps.  Also the shroud.

Take some measurements and see how much clearance you have.  I didn't have much so I went with an ultra thin (1.75 inches) compared to the normal 3 inch wide ones.

I think all of them require you to buy a thermostat/power connection.  I found the thermostats to be completely unreliable or a PIA to install, so I ditched it and hooked the fan up directly to the ignition terminal on my starter solenoid.  So when the car is on the fan is on all the time.  I hear the downside to this is it wears the fan out prematurely, but I don't give a shit, I'll just replace it.

"I" terminal is in the middle on right side (red wire with gray tape).

 

That is the look of a voltage regulator in every mustang the country over.  Wires everywhere. I want to clean up the looks of mine. Black split loom tubing is what I'm playing with right now.

My fan is hooked up there as well with a variable temp adjustment for when it kicks on.  That piece of engine bay is crowded, and kinda messy looking currently.

[mulletpelini 5216]

AC is for pussies

[TexasEd 8146]

Sun City car show. Wish I got a picture of the Packard. 
 

[TexasEd 8146]

[TexasEd 8146]

[TexasEd 8146]

[TexasEd 8146]

[Armybrat 41001]

I lol’d at this one...

 

[Jhawk 1075]

Alright... now that I’m done with a business partner buyout and can finally pay myself for the first time since July I’m going to go hard after my 68 el Camino dream. I’ve identified a few for project cars. My plan is to get the car and to basically have professionals do the work while I learn as much as possible. So, given that I’m an idiot that has been around classic cars (and cars in general) enough to ask the basic questions, what are the real questions that need to be asked before taking on a classic project car?

I’ll hang up and listen. Thanks. 

[tbone_ 14259]

If you are going to have professionals “do” a project car, the real question you have to ask yourself is are you willing to spend 4-5x what you think your budget is. Totally not kidding. If you think you are going to spend $20k in work, be prepared to spend $80k. It’s insane expensive what it costs to get a car done these days.

Much much better to buy one that’s already been done for $.30-.40 on the dollar.

[ROFL BOX 6650]

Re: El Camino.

1.  Where do you live / will the car come from your area or do you intend to find an Arizona / New Mexico / Southeast or West Texas car that hasn't been in snow / salt conditions?

2.  Re: #1, frame.  Frame.  Frame.

3.  Are you chasing an all #'s matching & get donor parts from another Camino?

[Jhawk 1075]

3 hours ago, tbone_ said:

If you are going to have professionals “do” a project car, the real question you have to ask yourself is are you willing to spend 4-5x what you think your budget is. Totally not kidding. If you think you are going to spend $20k in work, be prepared to spend $80k. It’s insane expensive what it costs to get a car done these days.

Much much better to buy one that’s already been done for $.30-.40 on the dollar.

I should qualify a bit... my uncle has a shop where he custom builds cars, specifically replica Shelby cobras. My plan is to spend $5-10k on a base car. I can handle bolt on stuff with my brother at his house. We can even get through some transmission issues and some engine issues as needed. What I can’t do is upholster a bench seat or refurb a dashboard. At least I don’t think I can or I don’t think I would be able to complete it with an acceptable finished product. So I’ll take it in and let my uncle’s team get to that as they can do it by component and do it quickly. 

Just now, ROFL BOX said:

Re: El Camino.

1.  Where do you live / will the car come from your area or do you intend to find an Arizona / New Mexico / Southeast or West Texas car that hasn't been in snow / salt conditions?

2.  Re: #1, frame.  Frame.  Frame.

3.  Are you chasing an all #'s matching & get donor parts from another Camino?

Numbers aren’t going to be a concern as this is my first ever “project”. If I like the outcome and the process I’ll probably do it again with a car that isn’t meant for me to look like a jackass in, like a chevelle.  At the base level, this is a joyride car where I can cut a mullet and put on a Jean jacket and get weird looks while trolling for pussy with some lucky strikes rolled up in my sleeve. 
 

Im comfortable spending money on the car but I don’t want to buy for $30-50k and either be on the lookout for the perfect car for me or have to change something about a road ready car to make it my perfect car. For instance, bench seats are a lot less common than buckets from what I’m finding, especially when a 396 is involved.  I want to fuck on my bench seat and I’ve been looking for the perfect car off and on for 3 years. I could have built one in that time and already stained the seat to my liking. 

[Mach 1 1677]

Sounds like you know what you want, have a plan and access to a family shop - most of your question marks are already checked off.

Biggest expense will be body work/paint, so look for the most rust free EC you can find.  Check for accident damage (As ROFL noted, frame).  

Second biggest expense is engine rebuild, if needed.  I'd have a pro shop make recommendations and do the work.

Everything after that is relatively straightforward/bolt on stuff that you can replace/install yourself if you like, or outsource.  All that "other stuff" adds up quickly in $, even if you do it yourself.

Here's how my numbers played out:

Purchase - $11k

Body/Paint - $12k (that's after I welded in the new floorpans)

Engine rebuild - $5k

Everything else - $12k (parts/materials, I did all the installation.)

[Jhawk 1075]

53 minutes ago, Mach 1 said:

Sounds like you know what you want, have a plan and access to a family shop - most of your question marks are already checked off.

Biggest expense will be body work/paint, so look for the most rust free EC you can find.  Check for accident damage (As ROFL noted, frame).  

Second biggest expense is engine rebuild, if needed.  I'd have a pro shop make recommendations and do the work.

Everything after that is relatively straightforward/bolt on stuff that you can replace/install yourself if you like, or outsource.  All that "other stuff" adds up quickly in $, even if you do it yourself.

Here's how my numbers played out:

Purchase - $11k

Body/Paint - $12k (that's after I welded in the new floorpans)

Engine rebuild - $5k

Everything else - $12k (parts/materials, I did all the installation.)

Appreciate the feedback. I know my goals and methods aren’t very evangelical so I hope you guys hold your noses when I say stuff that isn’t in line with keeping the classics a classic. I really appreciate the breakdown on spending and I’ll go back thru the thread to review your project. 
 

One last question I have for starting is... how the hell do you find a car. I’ve called on about 5 and they are either already sold (even after a day) or there is 4 listings for the same car at different prices and in different locations. Throws up a ton of red flags and I’m not about to fly to Utah to look at a car for 7k when the same car is listed for 4K in St. Louis. Literally the exact same listing. I’d almost be willing to pay a $500 success fee on sourcing the car. 

[Lhorn 5025]

Unless you can do a lot of the work yourself or have the urge to learn, I'd agree with buying a car already done or has the parts done that you don't feel comfortable getting into (body and paint etc) - as long as the work was well documented and passes the magnet tests.  

If the car is showing some rust damage, it's almost always going to be way worse than you imagined.  Expect to pay $$$ to get into metal repair.  Don't buy a car that's spent a lot of it's life in the midwest.  May have significant frame rust, rocker panels etc.  Even Texas cars can have rust so check them out closely.  Chevelles/Elcos can rust at the base of the windshield, fenders just behind the front wheel, and quarter panels just behind the rear wheel.  Elcos can have rust in the "smugglers box."   

 

Chevelles.com is the best site for all things Chevelles and El Caminos.  Search or ask questions there will give you the best answers about these cars.  Good luck.  El Caminos are awesome.  

[Jhawk 1075]

At the end of the day, if I have to buy a crate engine or trans that’s just what I’ll do. Kinda want a deal that I can do at my own pace but show quick progress in bunches. My biggest hesitancy out of the gate is the visual inspection before a purchase. I know I’m going to have/want to do mechanical work because cars get old. What I’m really worried about is seeing one spot of rust and not realizing it’s 50% of the frame. 

[Assman 1830]

My goal of having the Blazer done by July 4th has come and gone, but I got the cage in and put in some sound deadening. Also changed out the fuel pump for an eventual engine swap. Next up is exhaust and pulling the transfer case to replace a leaking seal. After that I think I'm ready for paint but I need to start assembling parts.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 

Edited May 18, 2021 by Assman

[TexasEd 8146]

 

On 5/17/2021 at 9:58 AM, Jhawk said:

Alright... now that I’m done with a business partner buyout and can finally pay myself for the first time since July I’m going to go hard after my 68 el Camino dream. I’ve identified a few for project cars. My plan is to get the car and to basically have professionals do the work while I learn as much as possible. So, given that I’m an idiot that has been around classic cars (and cars in general) enough to ask the basic questions, what are the real questions that need to be asked before taking on a classic project car?

I’ll hang up and listen. Thanks. 

1. Rust.  Stay away from it.  Nothing will tank a car project worse than rust.
2. Get all the parts with the car.  Don't take someone's empty shell project because all those little parts add up.  A simple plastic cover that goes above my dash is $150 for a repo on a standard interior and goes up to $300 for the deluxe interior that has woodgrain and a clock.  And the woodgrain and clock are not included.  All those things like courtesy lights, marker lights, door trim, screws, etc. really add up.  Having to buy them makes the time to get on the road extend considerably where if you have the originals you can replace things as you go.
3. Accidents - You don't want a twisted frame.
4. If you can, buy someone else's completed project and come out ahead.  Paint is expensive and will kill a project so get one already painted.

On 5/17/2021 at 2:03 PM, Jhawk said:

I should qualify a bit... my uncle has a shop where he custom builds cars, specifically replica Shelby cobras. My plan is to spend $5-10k on a base car. I can handle bolt on stuff with my brother at his house. We can even get through some transmission issues and some engine issues as needed. What I can’t do is upholster a bench seat or refurb a dashboard. At least I don’t think I can or I don’t think I would be able to complete it with an acceptable finished product. So I’ll take it in and let my uncle’s team get to that as they can do it by component and do it quickly. 

Numbers aren’t going to be a concern as this is my first ever “project”. If I like the outcome and the process I’ll probably do it again with a car that isn’t meant for me to look like a jackass in, like a chevelle.  At the base level, this is a joyride car where I can cut a mullet and put on a Jean jacket and get weird looks while trolling for pussy with some lucky strikes rolled up in my sleeve. 
 

Im comfortable spending money on the car but I don’t want to buy for $30-50k and either be on the lookout for the perfect car for me or have to change something about a road ready car to make it my perfect car. For instance, bench seats are a lot less common than buckets from what I’m finding, especially when a 396 is involved.  I want to fuck on my bench seat and I’ve been looking for the perfect car off and on for 3 years. I could have built one in that time and already stained the seat to my liking. 

Upholstery is one of those things you can learn from youtube.  Don't be afraid of the bench seat.  There are so many things to learn on youtube that you can do yourself.

 

Oh and you can rock the mullet and tank top in the Chevelle just as easy as the El Camino.

[TexasEd 8146]

20 hours ago, Assman said:

My goal of having the Blazer done by July 4th has come and gone, but I got the cage in and put in some sound deadening. Also changed out the fuel pump for an eventual engine swap. Next up is exhaust and pulling the transfer case to replace a leaking seal. After that I think I'm ready for paint but I need to start assembling parts.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 

 

How did you like the kilmat?  Was thinking of using that on the walls and ceiling and doing the Dynamat on the floor over the transmission hump.

[Assman 1830]

 
How did you like the kilmat?  Was thinking of using that on the walls and ceiling and doing the Dynamat on the floor over the transmission hump.

No complaints. Went down easy and the price was right. I still have 2 boxes that I can't return if you want them on the cheap. It's the 80 mil thickness.

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[TexasEd 8146]

1 hour ago, Assman said:

No complaints. Went down easy and the price was right. I still have 2 boxes that I can't return if you want them on the cheap. It's the 80 mil thickness.

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