Classic Car thread

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

1 minute ago, TwiceHorn said:

I have a scar on my forehead from a metal dashboard in an Impala (don't recall what year).  I was in the child seat in the front and had raised the little bar they had back then when my Mom exclaimed about something trivial as we went down our street just a couple of houses from home, causing my Dad to hit the brakes.  We weren't going real fast, but fast enough for little Twice to fly forward and smack his noggin on the sharpish edge of the dashboard and cut it open.  My parents said they'd never forget my screams as Dr. Norman stitched me up for as long as they lived.

Ahhhhh.... good times....... good times......

[Anastasis 23718]

24 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Oh yeah F the feds, cars were also starting to get bigger again after 66.  That 67 hood with the inset flashers is one of my favorite Mustang details.  I'd love to have that  detail on my 65.

Yeah, I love that detail too. Option on 67 I believe, and standard on 68.  I also prefer the 68 side scoops, but abhor the side reflectors that were fed mandated in 68. 

Edited August 21, 2020 by Anastasis

[TexasEd 8269]

19 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

Pony vs Muscle definitely a different car.  But  69/70 are only 1/2 inch wider and 4 inches longer than 67/68.  There is something in the body lines that gives the impression 69/70 is much larger, but it isn't.  I posted up thread how surprised I was when I got my 70 in the garage - took up much less space than I expected.

 

Wheelbase is also the same 67-70

[TexasEd 8269]

@Assman sent me a gift. I might have to wire it in my mustang 

[RMac5 1558]

My high school son has a 65 mustang with the original hubcaps. Any suggestions on an appropriate wheel for this car?  I’m dying to put some bad ass wheels on it, just not sure what would be a natural fit. Any Surly help?

[Anastasis 23718]

 

 

imo

[Anastasis 23718]

I like the looks of these as well, believe they are 10 spoke 67-68 shelby wheels. 

Edited August 21, 2020 by Anastasis

[TexasEd 8269]

31 minutes ago, RMac5 said:

My high school son has a 65 mustang with the original hubcaps. Any suggestions on an appropriate wheel for this car?  I’m dying to put some bad ass wheels on it, just not sure what would be a natural fit. Any Surly help?

The upgrades available then were the Styled Steel Wheels

but a few others would look period correct like the Magnum 500s (what I have and a friend has them on his 65 too)

and Shelby 10 Spoke.

That said, wheels are a personal preference.

[Anastasis 23718]

These are also correct for that year...

 

I have the 1968 version of the styles wheels on mine...

 

[tbone_ 14477]

Styled steel, magnum, or Cragars

 

I’m partial to cragars.

 

 

[RMac5 1558]

Those are cool! I actually looked at a couple of these online last night. I’m pretty sure his is a 4 lug and not a 5 lug wheel. I was told you can tell a 6 cylinder from an 8 by the number of lugs, his is definitely a 6 cylinder.  Which brings up another hit to the stang fund. I’m thinking it would be smart to replace the existing brakes with disc all around, if I’m doing that, I will want to replace the rotors too, which will be 5 lug. 

[Mach 1 1677]

4 minutes ago, RMac5 said:

Those are cool! I actually looked at a couple of these online last night. I’m pretty sure his is a 4 lug and not a 5 lug wheel. I was told you can tell a 6 cylinder from an 8 by the number of lugs, his is definitely a 6 cylinder.  Which brings up another hit to the stang fund. I’m thinking it would be smart to replace the existing brakes with disc all around, if I’m doing that, I will want to replace the rotors too, which will be 5 lug. 

Local manufacturer:  http://www.discbrakeswap.com/

I just swapped out my front, kept rear drums.  

 

 

[RMac5 1558]

Thanks for the link! Did you DIY? I’m not opposed to trying to tackle something like this, just seems like when you get started on these projects you end up breaking other things that are wore out. 

[mulletpelini 5225]

6 hours ago, TexasEd said:

@Assman sent me a gift. I might have to wire it in my mustang 

FUCK YEA!  The 74 beetle I talked about earlier was outfitted with one of these.  My best friend Paul would be on the PA constantly yelling shit at people.

A perfect little setting, nice polite mailman hand delivering mail to a gorgeous housewife, a completely innocent moment shared between two  classy adults

rudely interrupted by "FUCK HER I DID" yelled through the PA as we drove by.

 

We either did that mailman a favor that day, or we made a great moment completely awkward forever

[TexasEd 8269]

5 hours ago, RMac5 said:

Those are cool! I actually looked at a couple of these online last night. I’m pretty sure his is a 4 lug and not a 5 lug wheel. I was told you can tell a 6 cylinder from an 8 by the number of lugs, his is definitely a 6 cylinder.  Which brings up another hit to the stang fund. I’m thinking it would be smart to replace the existing brakes with disc all around, if I’m doing that, I will want to replace the rotors too, which will be 5 lug. 

Are you in Austin?  I have a friend who did the I6 to V8 conversion on a 65 if you have questions.

Nothing wrong with keeping it an I6 except it limits wheel choices.

[TexasEd 8269]

5 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

Local manufacturer: http://www.discbrakeswap.com/

I just swapped out my front, kept rear drums.  

 

 

I used these too. Installed them myself in 2 weekends.  Wheels are easy, doing an upgrade to power discs is a little more complicated.

Edited August 22, 2020 by TexasEd

[Mach 1 1677]

17 hours ago, RMac5 said:

Thanks for the link! Did you DIY? I’m not opposed to trying to tackle something like this, just seems like when you get started on these projects you end up breaking other things that are wore out. 

Yeah I did it myself.  Instructions are very detailed, well done.  Toughest part was bleeding the lines after installation and dealing with leaky connections.  It's a self contained project, I wouldn't worry about breaking anything else.  But while you're in there might as well replace old suspension parts.

Keep in mind if you do it yourself there's no turning back; no shop will take it on unless they do all the work from the beginning.

[ROFL BOX 6656]

On 8/20/2020 at 12:25 PM, Bevo&Pevo said:

Last I heard the Lone Star Round Up was still in Auztin.  Anyone confirm? going?

The 2020 year is a bust.  Re-routed to 2021.  This year has been a suck in so many ways.

https://www.facebook.com/LonestarRoundUp/

[Bevo&Pevo 5530]

Just got the email the October Pate meet isn't gonna happen.  April 2021 is the next date.  Frick and Frack and Furk.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

Heres a new one.  My speedometer has always bounced. It reads sort of correct if you take the number in the middle of the waving needle.  I thought maybe the cable was bad or the gear teeth at the transmission were worn.

I've replaced the cable (primed it with graphite to make it turn freely in the Casing).  I replaced the 4 speed with a 5 speed, and it still did its dance.

Flash forward to a couple weeks ago, and I notice the speedometer is reading true, no waver, no bounce. Then I notice the odometer isn't working.  So something in the connection between the two must be broken. I haven't run across this problem before. Any thoughts ?  Haven't googled or asked the Mustang forums yet.

I need, and really want the odometer reading correctly .  Hate having to crack the dash open because I know where that's gonna lead.. project creep....

[Mother mopar 3389]

Heres a new one.  My speedometer has always bounced. It reads sort of correct if you take the number in the middle of the waving needle.  I thought maybe the cable was bad or the gear teeth at the transmission were worn.
I've replaced the cable (primed it with graphite to make it turn freely in the Casing).  I replaced the 4 speed with a 5 speed, and it still did its dance.
Flash forward to a couple weeks ago, and I notice the speedometer is reading true, no waver, no bounce. Then I notice the odometer isn't working.  So something in the connection between the two must be broken. I haven't run across this problem before. Any thoughts ?  Haven't googled or asked the Mustang forums yet.
I need, and really want the odometer reading correctly .  Hate having to crack the dash open because I know where that's gonna lead.. project creep....

I assume this is run if the mill speedo cable? Are the ends rounded where it inserts into the tranny?

[Mother mopar 3389]

Well, after messing around with the oiling issue yesterday just to make sure before I trash a motor. Something told me to look again and keep digging. So I removed all the valve train and intake manifold to take a look at why the #2 rocker stand will not oil. Glad I did, found #1piston had rust and the cam lobes looked pitted. FML 2/steps forward 3 back right, so now I've got to pull a motor and take it to a builder and have it checked.

Since I'm there gonna have the cam replaced and see if I get a nice solid roller cam to the fake advantage of the heads. Going to make a few calls tomorrow to a few hemi builders in Florida and go from there.

Bright news my rebuild trans parts comes in tomorrow from Brewers Performance.

[ROFL BOX 6656]

Yeah, that 2nd to last pic (top of piston) looks pretty ugly on the bottom.  Where in Florida are you located?

[Mother mopar 3389]

I'm in Fort Walton Beach.

The engine was rebuilt years ago and sat in a building by the previous owner. At the least that piston needs to be replaced but hey, might as well look at everything else.

[TwiceHorn 32111]

Cant quite tell what I'm looking at there on the piston other than yeah, that's rust.  Can't be cleaned up and polished up?

What is the sludge on the lifters?  Is that just a buildup of oil and crud?  Or some kind of break-in substance.

Since you got the head off, might as well show us what makes a hemi a hemi.

[ROFL BOX 6656]

My buddy with the (2) '67 Fastbacks (+ a shitload more) is in the Daytona area; was gonna see about a referral but you're up in the FloriBama.

Here's his '67 Vette, L88.  523 hp, weighs 3,007 lbs. empty.

 

 

[ROFL BOX 6656]

7 minutes ago, TwiceHorn said:

Since you got the head off, might as well show us what makes a hemi a hemi.

"It's all ball bearings these days."

[Anastasis 23718]

Some electrical gremlins.  Hopefully you guys can help me diagnose. Battery is dying. Replaced with new battery.  Still walking up to a dead battery after a couple days in the garage. Getting 12.4V at the battery 14.5V ish with teh engine idling.  I believe that this indicates that both my alternator and voltage regulator are functioning fine. So I got a short somewhere bleeding me out?  My fuel gauge was also acting goofy, so maybe something in that circuit.  At the moment just going to pull the positive terminal off the battery until I have a better diagnostic plan. Fuck electronics are the thing that I hate to fuck with.  

Edited August 24, 2020 by Anastasis

[Mother mopar 3389]

Cant quite tell what I'm looking at there on the piston other than yeah, that's rust.  Can't be cleaned up and polished up?
What is the sludge on the lifters?  Is that just a buildup of oil and crud?  Or some kind of break-in substance.
Since you got the head off, might as well show us what makes a hemi a hemi.

It could be surface rust but to know for sure I have to pull the bottom end. What if it has rusted down to a ring and now it could be compromised...not taking the chance. The "sludge" on the lifters is the assembly lube. It moved as I turned the motor over by hand during oil priming.

[Mother mopar 3389]

Here is why it is called a Hemi... hemispherical heads. This design is very very efficient and as the piston slug rises up in the bore it makes a perfect quench this more power. Combined with huge intake runner and you can see why these heads make a lot of power and love a big cam.

[Mach 1 1677]

1 hour ago, Mother mopar said:

Well, after messing around with the oiling issue yesterday just to make sure before I trash a motor. Something told me to look again and keep digging. So I removed all the valve train and intake manifold to take a look at why the #2 rocker stand will not oil. Glad I did, found #1piston had rust and the cam lobes looked pitted. FML 2/steps forward 3 back right, so now I've got to pull a motor and take it to a builder and have it checked.

Since I'm there gonna have the cam replaced and see if I get a nice solid roller cam to the fake advantage of the heads. Going to make a few calls tomorrow to a few hemi builders in Florida and go from there.

Bright news my rebuild trans parts comes in tomorrow from Brewers Performance.

Sucks man, sorry.  So I assume the guy you bought the engine from just tossed in the old cam without grinding it?  Fucker.

What's your guess on the piston rust - small coolant leak? Humidity?  Odd that it's just that lone location.

[Mach 1 1677]

28 minutes ago, Anastasis said:

Some electrical gremlins.  Hopefully you guys can help me diagnose. Battery is dying. Replaced with new battery.  Still walking up to a dead battery after a couple days in the garage. Getting 12.4V at the battery 14.5V ish with teh engine idling.  I believe that this indicates that both my alternator and voltage regulator are functioning fine. So I got a short somewhere bleeding me out?  My fuel gauge was also acting goofy, so maybe something in that circuit.  At the moment just going to pull the positive terminal off the battery until I have a better diagnostic plan. Fuck electronics are the thing that I hate to fuck with.  

Get a multimeter and take a fuse out one at a time, watch for the drop.  That could help at least regionally localize the drain problem.  

Sorry man, electrical issues are indeed a bitch.

[TwiceHorn 32111]

29 minutes ago, Mother mopar said:

Here is why it is called a Hemi... hemispherical heads. This design is very very efficient and as the piston slug rises up in the bore it makes a perfect quench this more power. Combined with huge intake runner and you can see why these heads make a lot of power and love a big cam.

Niiice. Thanks. 

Gah, you can see how some kind of moist shit gathered there and yeah, looking at the head, too, can't blame you for wanting to pull it and get the full story.

IIRC, the more modern hemis are less strictly hemispherical than that.  Is that right?

Also, don't recall seeing pushrods angled that much in the few engines I have seen from that perspective.  Is that something resulting from the hemi head?

Edited August 24, 2020 by TwiceHorn

[Mother mopar 3389]

Sucks man, sorry.  So I assume the guy you bought the engine from just tossed in the old cam without grinding it?  Fucker.
What's your guess on the piston rust - small coolant leak? Humidity?  Odd that it's just that lone location.

Not sure about the cam, maybe the high humidity caused pitting? The cam isn't used as the wear pattern would be way different, at least from what I have seen.

[Mother mopar 3389]

Niiice. Thanks. 
Gah, you can see how some kind of moist shit gathered there and yeah, looking at the head, too, can't blame you for wanting to pull it and get the full story.
IIRC, the more modern hemis are less strictly hemispherical than that.  Is that right?
Also, don't recall seeing pushrods angled that much in the few engines I have seen from that perspective.  Is that something resulting from the hemi head?

Yeah, that what I think to. The modern Hemi (gen IIIs) 5.7,6.1,6.2 (Demon) and 6.4 are a bit different but the premise is still the same. Though I suspect the demon Hemi heads have some design and "massaging" to make 700+ ponies.

[ROFL BOX 6656]

1 hour ago, Anastasis said:

Fuck electronics are the thing that I hate to fuck with.  

Don't even get me started on the headaches that were the Fusible Link for my '73 (4) door Nova.  I didn't know shit about 'leck-trick-itty & I still don't.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

3 hours ago, Mother mopar said:

 

 

I assume this is run if the mill speedo cable? Are the ends rounded where it inserts into the tranny?

 

Toothed gear at the transmission end that screws in, and a square shaft that inserts into the back of the speedometer in the dash.

[TexasEd 8269]

1 hour ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Toothed gear at the transmission end that screws in, and a square shaft that inserts into the back of the speedometer in the dash.

I was going to ask if that plastic gear is bad. 

[Mother mopar 3389]

Today was a good day. All new/rebuilt trans shifter, levers, rods and hardware.

[Anastasis 23718]

22 hours ago, Anastasis said:

Some electrical gremlins.  Hopefully you guys can help me diagnose. Battery is dying. Replaced with new battery.  Still walking up to a dead battery after a couple days in the garage. Getting 12.4V at the battery 14.5V ish with teh engine idling.  I believe that this indicates that both my alternator and voltage regulator are functioning fine. So I got a short somewhere bleeding me out?  My fuel gauge was also acting goofy, so maybe something in that circuit.  At the moment just going to pull the positive terminal off the battery until I have a better diagnostic plan. Fuck electronics are the thing that I hate to fuck with.  

So drove over to the advance auto parts and had them test the alternator just to confirm.  Everything checked out.  Disconnected the negative terminal on the battery with the car off and tested the draw, got 0.27 amp which based on the internet is about 0.22 too high. So something is parasitic draining it. Haven't fucked with the fuses yet because the ford engineers put the fuse box in the most fucked up place possible.

At same time, am still having issues with the fuel gauge pegging past full. The temperature gauge is fine, so that would seem to rule out the instrument panel voltage regulator. I am seeing the fuel gauge pegged intermittently past full even with the key out and everything off.  I believe that the pegged gauge means that there the line to the sending unit is grounding somewhere, and I am wondering if it was wired up to somehow to be charged when the car is off, and the short might be causing the drain. Did I mention fuck electronics.  

[ROFL BOX 6656]

24 minutes ago, Anastasis said:

Did I mention fuck electronics.  

Not nearly enough.

[RMac5 1558]

I guess the good news is, there won’t be many fuses to deal with.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

DEAD ODOMETER UPDATE:  Seems like there aren't any stand alone, after market odometers out there apparently (that I could find).  So you fix it yourself (nope, can't find the proper worm gear more than likely), buy an old/salvaged one (nope) or buy a new Scott Drake speedometer gauge that actually comes with a new odometer attached for about $80 (yep, seems like the way to go). The Scott Drake unit gets high makes for quality, and accuracy.

Looks pretty easy to swap out, and you only need to remove the dash panel right above the steering wheel. Looks pretty plug, and play.  Project creep to ensue of course. I want to clean up, and detail (with some kind of veneer material carbon fiber, burnished metal, etc. ) the painted metal dash that just never seemed finished, and or detailed enough in the Mustangs in my opinion.. 

[TexasEd 8269]

17 hours ago, Anastasis said:

At same time, am still having issues with the fuel gauge pegging past full. The temperature gauge is fine, so that would seem to rule out the instrument panel voltage regulator. I am seeing the fuel gauge pegged intermittently past full even with the key out and everything off.  I believe that the pegged gauge means that there the line to the sending unit is grounding somewhere, and I am wondering if it was wired up to somehow to be charged when the car is off, and the short might be causing the drain. Did I mention fuck electronics.  

Is it always pegged even with empty tank?  Pull the wire off the sender at the tank and see if it goes to E.

[Anastasis 23718]

59 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

Is it always pegged even with empty tank?  Pull the wire off the sender at the tank and see if it goes to E.

Pulling wire off the sender doesn't do anything.  This leads me to believe that it is grounded out somewhere.  Sometimes it pegs past full, like all the way to the right. When I just went and checked it now, it registers about 3/4 tank.  I believe that all could be explained by a inadvertent grounding somewhere along the line. Tank is full as I just topped it up yesterday.

What I cannot explain is why the gauge is reading out anything at all with no keys in.  I don't recall this being this case when I took delivery and never noticed it until I started having general gauge weirdness discussed earlier in the thread. 

 

Battery pos terminal removed, keys out, sending unit plugged in. This is what you get. E

Battery terminal on, keys still out, sending unit plugged in, 0.20 amps drain, this is what you get. 3/4 (was repeatedly past F yesterday)

 Battery terminal on, keys still out, sending unit plug removed, 0.20 amps drain, this is what you get. 3/4 (was repeatedly past F yesterday)

 

Keys in, turned to on, acc, or running makes no difference, all same reading as batt terminal connected. 

Edited August 25, 2020 by Anastasis
added description since imgbb looks to be down.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

I FUCKING HATE ELECTRICAL ISSUES WITH THESE OLD CARS !!!!!!  (Yes I'm yelling)

[TexasEd 8269]

1 hour ago, Anastasis said:

 

 Battery terminal on, keys still out, sending unit plug removed, 0.20 amps drain, this is what you get. 3/4 (was repeatedly past F yesterday)

So what could cause this?

Bad ignition switch always in accessory mode. Does anything else work that shouldn’t?

Grounded wire

Bad voltage regulator- but only gauge affected?  What about temperature gauge after a drive?

Bad Fuel Gauge

I would add short in the gauge membrane but the power should not get to it

short from always hot circuit to the gauge cluster like a radio or ignition switch wire 

After that I start thinking about combinations like bad headlight switch and bad circuit board 

 

Edited August 25, 2020 by TexasEd

[Anastasis 23718]

4 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

So what could cause this?

Bad ignition switch always in accessory mode. Does anything else work that shouldn’t?

Grounded wire

Bad voltage regulator- but only gauge affected?  What about temperature gauge after a drive?

Bad Fuel Gauge

I would add short in the gauge membrane but the power should not get to it

short from always hot circuit to the gauge cluster like a radio or ignition switch wire 

Thanks for bouncing around these ideas, very helpful.

Temp gauge continues to read temp after I cut the ignition (pic 1).  Pic 2 is after pulling the pos terminal after I cut the ignition. I believe that normal behavior would be to uncharge the gauges with the ignition off.  This strongly suggests a short to the gauge cluster to me, but everything I know about mustang electronics I learned this weekend. Pic 3 is a picture of the fuel gauge when I just started it up to warm up (went from 3/4F to pegged on start up).

Short from always hot and a grounding in the line to the sending unit would seem to fit with the observations, but I am sure that lots of things could. Ignition switch is an interesting idea. I can confirm that radio does not function in off position, but works in both acc and on.  I can't really think of anything else that should be off to check? The previous owner installed a radio in the trunk, so I am highly suspicious that there is some fuckery involved there. What is strange that I did not observe any of this stuff until a few months after delivery. 

 

 

[TexasEd 8269]

@Anastasis I would try the voltage regulator(s) first. Since both act the same it is something common to them (Voltage regulators, circuit board, etc).

Before you tear anything apart take the wire off the fuel sender and the temperature sender separately and together and see if you still get readings on the gauge with nothing connected.

There are two inline VRs that could be the problem.  There is the one in the engine bay on the passenger inner fender well (or onboard an aftermarket alternator).  The original style mechanical ones go bad.  You can get a solid state replacement and may be able to use the old cover to disguise it.

There is another one on the back of the dash. 

 

Here is some light reading:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-1005-ford-mustang-instrument-panel-troubleshooting

 

Edited August 25, 2020 by TexasEd

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

2 hours ago, TexasEd said:

@Anastasis I would try the voltage regulator(s) first. Since both act the same it is something common to them (Voltage regulators, circuit board, etc).

Before you tear anything apart take the wire off the fuel sender and the temperature sender separately and together and see if you still get readings on the gauge with nothing connected.

There are two inline VRs that could be the problem.  There is the one in the engine bay on the passenger inner fender well (or onboard an aftermarket alternator).  The original style mechanical ones go bad.  You can get a solid state replacement and may be able to use the old cover to disguise it.

There is another one on the back of the dash. 

 

Here is some light reading:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-1005-ford-mustang-instrument-panel-troubleshooting

 

All of this. Also go to allfordmustangs.com>forums> classic mustangs> classic tech and look at the "care and feeding of ponies". The author has lots of great trouble shooting tips, and explanations of systems I've found very helpful thru the years.