Classic Car thread

[Prepuce of Doom 21296]

Saw this metallic baby poop gold Mustang this evening. Sounded pretty raucous. 

 

 

[Bozo_Casanova 26909]

3 hours ago, TexasEd said:

@Anastasis I would try the voltage regulator(s) first. Since both act the same it is something common to them (Voltage regulators, circuit board, etc).

Before you tear anything apart take the wire off the fuel sender and the temperature sender separately and together and see if you still get readings on the gauge with nothing connected.

There are two inline VRs that could be the problem.  There is the one in the engine bay on the passenger inner fender well (or onboard an aftermarket alternator).  The original style mechanical ones go bad.  You can get a solid state replacement and may be able to use the old cover to disguise it.

There is another one on the back of the dash. 

 

Here is some light reading:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-1005-ford-mustang-instrument-panel-troubleshooting

 

I’ve been down this path before with my 1967  and you are giving good advice. I vote replace ignition switch and voltage regulator. 
 

also- the old mechanical VRs were garbage. Don’t try to pretend you have one.

[Anastasis 23717]

Thanks for the links guys. 

2 hours ago, TexasEd said:

Before you tear anything apart take the wire off the fuel sender and the temperature sender separately and together and see if you still get readings on the gauge with nothing connected.

On temp gauge, removing the wire to the sending unit takes the gauge offline and it goes to cold, as expected.  Fuel gauge stays pegged no matter whether connected to the sending unit or not. I would just chalk it up to a short in the line to the fuel sending unit if the gauges would go offline when the key was in off position.

Also, pulled each of the fuses, and did not see a reduction in the amp draw, so it's a non-fused circuit somewhere.  This is a whole lot of fun.  Had to go out this evening for a quick drive to clear the mind.

I think I'll change out the VR and ignition switch.  Those are easy (and cheap) things to try.

 

[mulletpelini 5225]

9 hours ago, Anastasis said:

The previous owner installed a radio in the trunk, so I am highly suspicious that there is some fuckery involved there.

11 hours ago, TexasEd said:

short from always hot circuit to the gauge cluster like a radio or ignition switch wire

 

When I started working on car stereos 35 years ago, I didn't know shit and this type of issue could have easily happened to the "next" guy.  Don't assume anything.  Look at every damn wire under the dash very closely and see if they "pegged" any wires when testing for a hot lead.  Hell, my method back then was two touch wires together and see if they spark, if they don't, mark it as a speaker wire.  Imagine everyone else does the same thing, you might just find it right there in front of you.

[TexasEd 8268]

20 hours ago, Bozo_Casanova said:

 

also- the old mechanical VRs were garbage. Don’t try to pretend you have one.

I only mentioned using the old cover to give the appearance of a stock engine bay - if that is desired.  I try to keep mine stock looking.  It's not 100% but close.

 

[Bozo_Casanova 26909]

1 hour ago, TexasEd said:

I only mentioned using the old cover to give the appearance of a stock engine bay - if that is desired.  I try to keep mine stock looking.  It's not 100% but close.

 

Fair, but those things are hot garbage and a one way ticket to burnt coils followed by a shot alternator. 

[Anastasis 23717]

I found a VR that looks stock @ Virginia mustang. But can't find any reviews online, whereas the motorcraft one gets solid reviews. I am not caught up in original appearances for a $50 part, so will probably go with the motorcraft version.

https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/68-70-Blue-Autolite-Voltage-Regulator-C8TF-Stamping-P1153.aspx

But here is a fun fact.  Went for a drive with the boy this evening and the fucking fuel gauge is now totally unresponsive and won't leave E at all, meanwhile the temp gauge is fine and only energizes when the key is in on position. Freaking killing me with the lack of a clear pattern to diagnose. 

[Anastasis 23717]

3 hours ago, TexasEd said:

I only mentioned using the old cover to give the appearance of a stock engine bay - if that is desired.  I try to keep mine stock looking.  It's not 100% but close.

Same. Mine is an older but fairly well done restoration.  It needs pain eventually, but otherwise a looker from 10 ft. They took liberties with the valve covers and some other bits here and there and it is no where close to concours.  But for the average person, it is a pretty original example. I am torn between convenience upgrades and a dogmatic adherence to trying to make the car as close to original as possible, so I appreciate the tips on the little cosmetic things that set the two apart. 

Edited August 27, 2020 by Anastasis

[PittsburghTiger 6351]

MotorWeek was one of the earliest car shows, on public TV, and was must-watch TV for me and my dad. They have a lot of cool reviews from years back on YouTube. My neighbors had one of these.

[Mother mopar 3389]

Started prepping for engine removal, removed exhaust manifolds, alternator, and went to pull passenger side head and it will not clear the shock tower. So I'll have to jack up the engine and remove it that way.

After fighting that for a bit pulled the trans. Waiting on a book to show up and I'll start disassembly. I can rebuild it for about $250 in parts from brewers' performance.

Also, have a blasting cabinet and shop press en route to the casa. Tired of paying for sandblasting.

[Prepuce of Doom 21296]

52 minutes ago, PittsburghTiger said:

MotorWeek was one of the earliest car shows, on public TV, and was must-watch TV for me and my dad. They have a lot of cool reviews from years back on YouTube. My neighbors had one of these.

I love that authentically enthusiastic cheeseball in the windbreaker who looks like Bill Dauterive. He's always so fucking happy to tell you about the latest Buick or whatever that it somehow makes you feel good, regardless of whether you give a shit about that specific car or not. 

Spent more than a few Sunday mornings hungover and eating Egg McMonkeys while watching MotorWeek back in the day... 

Edited August 31, 2020 by Prepuce of Doom

[ROFL BOX 6655]

@Mother mopar, I'd say that's a brave move to dig into a transmission.  A total mystery to me, they are.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

5 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

@Mother mopar, I'd say that's a brave move to dig into a transmission.  A total mystery to me, they are.

No shit.....

[Anton Chigurh 3335]

Not much going on in old manual gearboxes.

Just need a few tools for your press, and to make sure you put it back in the right order!

[Mother mopar 3389]

[mention=938]Mother mopar[/mention], I'd say that's a brave move to dig into a transmission.  A total mystery to me, they are.

Something, something it's all ball bearings....and gears.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

4 minutes ago, Mother mopar said:

17 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

[mention=938]Mother mopar[/mention], I'd say that's a brave move to dig into a transmission.  A total mystery to me, they are.

Something, something it's all ball bearings....and gears.

Don't forget to install the correct Fetzer valves.

[mulletpelini 5225]

Aw cmon guys, it's so simple.  Maybe you need a refresher course. HIIIIIIIYAAA

[ROFL BOX 6655]

@midtown

 

Power steering & power brakes are going to really REALLY be the best upgrade to look for.

 

Next up is a good / reliable electrical system. Those gremlins can be the worst. Very few do a total swap out here, but you want to look for splits, cracks, splices, wire nuts, etc. Definitely a hassle to work those on your own & quite spendy to have them shop serviced. Get on your back & look under the dash. You don't need to know what goes where, but you do need to look for [again] splits, cracks, splices, wire nuts, etc.

 

Then AC... it's Texas, man. Gotta have that. Factory? Vintage Air? (That's a co. who makes aftermarket setups to add on where the factory ride didn't have it.)

Up until the early 80's, it seems the Big 3 didn't think people considered that a necessity (especially if it was a Northern car to begin with).

 

BODY RUST. Floor pans. Quarter panels. Rocker panels. Door sills. Window edges / seals. Trunk edges. Wheel wells & edges. Look for bondo patching. Some are done well, others not so much & will be a definite problem for reappearing rust.

 

While you're at it, interior of the trunk & door frames will quickly tell you if it has been repainted & what the original color was. The VIN will also tell you a lot if you can research that code... original engine, color, factory options, etc.

 

Notice I haven't even touched on the drivetrain.

 

Post up pics of what you find & let Shag² tell you what to expect or look for.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

[ROFL BOX 6655]

@midtown

 

How about a Mach 1?

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.surlyhorns.com/board/index.php?/topic/15616-69-mach-1-4500000/&share_tid=15616&share_fid=2053247&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

$ 45,000.00.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

[midtown 3357]

What ROFL is referring to from the thread I started without knowing this was here:

I'm probably 6mos to a year away from buying a classic car.  67 GTO.  The great one.   

I know very little about buying and maintaining a classic so I wanted a long lead time to educate myself and research.  I know the closer to original the more expensive.   I don't need or want that.  I don't want a show car. .  I want a car that is been modernized for driving and hopefully less maintenance and break downs.    I've looked online and there are some that are $25k that look good and others that are $80k.   

What trouble and I getting at $25k-40k?   I get that they need a thorough inspection for rust, bent frames,  and other issues that would cost thousands to fix.

Edited September 3, 2020 by midtown

[midtown 3357]

2 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

How about a Mach 1?

I thought really hard about another classic but I know I'd have terrible regret if I only ever owned one classic for it not to be a GTO.  Its been my dream car the first time I ever saw one. 

Already got some great advice from Twicehorn on the thread I started.  I don't want to jam up this thread.   I'll spend the weekend reading the whole thread.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

38 minutes ago, midtown said:

What ROFL is referring to from the thread I started without knowing this was here:

I'm probably 6mos to a year away from buying a classic car.  67 GTO.  The great one.   

I know very little about buying and maintaining a classic so I wanted a long lead time to educate myself and research.  I know the closer to original the more expensive.   I don't need or want that.  I don't want a show car. .  I want a car that is been modernized for driving and hopefully less maintenance and break downs.    I've looked online and there are some that are $25k that look good and others that are $80k.   

What trouble and I getting at $25k-40k?   I get that they need a thorough inspection for rust, bent frames,  and other issues that would cost thousands to fix.

At $25K you should be able to find a great daily driver, depending on the make, and Model of course. GOAT's can be pricey. 

 Not a car with a show finish because then you worry about every fucking ding, and you don't like driving it as much. Strong drive train, solid body. Then resto mod it for modern details like dual bowl master cylinders, working electrical system, front disc brakes are nice. I'd want a 4 or preferably 5 speed manual transmission but that's just me.  

I also assume you have a garage to keep her in. Old cars do not like it outdoors under car covers, just like your grandma or grampy wouldn't.

[midtown 3357]

10 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

I also assume you have a garage to keep her in. Old cars do not like it outdoors under car covers, just like your grandma or grampy wouldn't.

I have a single garage.  I would move my truck out of it and put the car in it.  OR I would rent a unit at a storage lot that is walking distance from my house or the kids and I could ride our bikes there and put them in the garage for a drive and ride them the 5 mins home.  

 

10 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

At $25K you should be able to find a great daily driver, depending on the make, and Model of course. GOAT's can be pricey.

Cheapest I'm seeing just randomly looking around is high 30s for a 67 GTO.  And I'm old enough to remember what it was like driving a car with no power steering or brakes.   When I get really serious Ill start contacting dealers and being more specific.   Paint for example won't bother me as I really want a dark blue.  So I'd probably end up having it painted anyway.

Edited September 3, 2020 by midtown

[tbone_ 14468]

I paid an inspector on my Firebird. He missed the bent subframe.

[midtown 3357]

11 minutes ago, tbone_ said:

I paid an inspector on my Firebird. He missed the bent subframe.

This is my concern dude

 

This seems like what I want

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pontiac/gto/2427792.html

And this would be exactly what I'd want but I'm not putting out $75k even with the blonde.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pontiac/gto/2424556.html

Edited September 3, 2020 by midtown

[tbone_ 14468]

It should be. Really no way to know for sure what you are getting. Unless the thing has been completely taken apart recently and put back nut and bolt, I’d expect issues.

[Anastasis 23717]

Love the GTOs. 

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

14 minutes ago, midtown said:

I have a single garage.  I would move my truck out of it and put the car in it.  OR I would rent a unit at a storage lot that is walking distance from my house or the kids and I could ride our bikes there and put them in the garage for a drive and ride them the 5 mins home.  

 

Cheapest I'm seeing just randomly looking around is high 30s for a 67 GTO.  And I'm old enough to remember what it was like driving a car with no power steering or brakes.   When I get really serious Ill start contacting dealers and being more specific.   Paint for example won't bother me as I really want a dark blue.  So I'd probably end up having it painted anyway.

Yep GOATS are a bit rarer, and have been puling the high numbers with their true muscle car status.

[tbone_ 14468]

But they are indeed bad ass

[RMac5 1558]

That convertible in the link is freakin beautiful.

[PRONG HORN 3221]

This company is still building F1 V10 engines that you can buy today

 

Edited September 4, 2020 by PRONG HORN

[Brew 3051]

17 hours ago, midtown said:

This is my concern dude

 

This seems like what I want

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pontiac/gto/2427792.html

And this would be exactly what I'd want but I'm not putting out $75k even with the blonde.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pontiac/gto/2424556.html

First and foremost, avoid all cars with the word tribute/clone in the description unless it’s a steep discount and you’re fine with what you are getting. That’s a $75k Lemans.

The GTO market has really taken off the last few years. It’s the one classic I want, but I just haven’t pulled the trigger for various reasons over the years. I think you’re probably going to have to be in the $35k-$50k range to get a solid driver with original interior and also not in the highly desirable combinations. Gateway Classics is a high volume seller and I keep an eye on them for pricing.

[Brew 3051]

Also, if you are going to get into changing paint colors, it complicates what I would want to spend on the front end and whether I would be looking for numbers matching or just good value. If you want it to hold value and/or increase, your best bet is to find a numbers matching in the color combo you want. That year GTO is pretty reliable as long as you get one in good mechanical shape. I’m looking for one to put a current powertrain in, but that will turn into a money pit so I want a good buy on the front end and not a “collector” car. I would really like a rolling chassis and had one a couple of years ago that got sold out from under me.

[TwiceHorn 32107]

I'm gonna throw this out there without knowing for sure that it's accurate and as an expansion on Brew's statement that:  

Quote

 I’m looking for one to put a current powertrain in, but that will turn into a money pit so I want a good buy on the front end and not a “collector” car.

There's nothing fundamentally unreliable about a 60s era V8.  I drove one well into the 80s without major maintenance (turned out it probably could have used some, but still ran strong). The issue is how old is the main seal, the main and rod bearings, head gaskets, the valve gear, etc.  And a TH350/400 is a solid transmission, as were the manuals of the day.  Again, subject to condition.

After having priced crate engines in connection with Randolph Duke's LM7 thread, I am thinking a solid rebuild of the original engine and transmission is more cost effective than dropping in a modern crate engine, despite the initial appeal of the modern engine.  Plus you'd have to do a lot of extra electrical work to support the ECU and various controls, and there there be tygers.

You could shortcut this somewhat with a "junkyard" modern engine, but then you are susceptible to the same kind of "unknown" problems that the old V8 might have.  Plus you lose a bunch of authenticity.

That money is probably better spent on the suspension, like the brakes and steering mentioned above and getting the interior in good shape, if not completely original.

[Mother mopar 3389]

Love Mopars.

FIFY

[Brew 3051]

1 hour ago, TwiceHorn said:

I'm gonna throw this out there without knowing for sure that it's accurate and as an expansion on Brew's statement that:  

There's nothing fundamentally unreliable about a 60s era V8.  I drove one well into the 80s without major maintenance (turned out it probably could have used some, but still ran strong). The issue is how old is the main seal, the main and rod bearings, head gaskets, the valve gear, etc.  And a TH350/400 is a solid transmission, as were the manuals of the day.  Again, subject to condition.

After having priced crate engines in connection with Randolph Duke's LM7 thread, I am thinking a solid rebuild of the original engine and transmission is more cost effective than dropping in a modern crate engine, despite the initial appeal of the modern engine.  Plus you'd have to do a lot of extra electrical work to support the ECU and various controls, and there there be tygers.

You could shortcut this somewhat with a "junkyard" modern engine, but then you are susceptible to the same kind of "unknown" problems that the old V8 might have.  Plus you lose a bunch of authenticity.

That money is probably better spent on the suspension, like the brakes and steering mentioned above and getting the interior in good shape, if not completely original.

That era GM powertrain is a solid /reliable combination that will run forever, is easy to rebuild and find parts for, is easy to work on, is relatively cheap to work on, etc. That goes double if you are driving it locally and it’s a weekend driver. If you can get a numbers matching car or period correct car keep it original.

I’m going down the road of looking at something stupid that ends up as a true restomod with a GTO exterior more in the 64/65 range that probably pisses off the old school guys.

[tbone_ 14468]

Whoever mentioned paint above better get ready to be completely blown away by paint costs these days.

[AUinHsv 584]

3 hours ago, tbone_ said:

Whoever mentioned paint above better get ready to be completely blown away by paint costs these days.

No kidding.. The people working in getting my 62 MGA back on the road are in Michigan and their quote for entire paint is 20K.  The paint currently on it was done by my Dad in the garage. He stripped everything down and did all the body work and then the paint. May have cost 1K and part of that was tools and compressor and it lasted 30 years. A bigger classic is probably 25-30K...

 

[Mother mopar 3389]

So my rebuild parts showed up and then good news. I opened the cover and noticed shiny parts and new colored grease on the reverse detent balls. This tells me someone else has been in there. Everything looks really good. Hard for me to trust others work so I'll sleep on it and decide to rebuild it or leave it.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

10 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

I'm gonna throw this out there without knowing for sure that it's accurate and as an expansion on Brew's statement that:  

There's nothing fundamentally unreliable about a 60s era V8.  I drove one well into the 80s without major maintenance (turned out it probably could have used some, but still ran strong). The issue is how old is the main seal, the main and rod bearings, head gaskets, the valve gear, etc.  And a TH350/400 is a solid transmission, as were the manuals of the day.  Again, subject to condition.

After having priced crate engines in connection with Randolph Duke's LM7 thread, I am thinking a solid rebuild of the original engine and transmission is more cost effective than dropping in a modern crate engine, despite the initial appeal of the modern engine.  Plus you'd have to do a lot of extra electrical work to support the ECU and various controls, and there there be tygers.

You could shortcut this somewhat with a "junkyard" modern engine, but then you are susceptible to the same kind of "unknown" problems that the old V8 might have.  Plus you lose a bunch of authenticity.

That money is probably better spent on the suspension, like the brakes and steering mentioned above and getting the interior in good shape, if not completely original.

What this guy said...

[Bo 139]

Crazy that this is now considered classic in terms of plates/years but picked this up a few months back and got pops working on it. Have had lots of ideas on what to do with in but finally settled on plan and getting painted. Considered raptor lining burnt orange paint but went different direction. Sorry not sorry if the newness offends anyone

[Prepuce of Doom 21296]

You sure you don't want a Ford for that driveway? 

[Bo 139]

You sure you don't want a Ford for that driveway? 

No sir, not in that garage, haha. This is a separate 8-10ish car garage with man cave behind his house. He sorta built his dream garage with lift even on this side pictured.

[Prepuce of Doom 21296]

Living the dream - good for him! 

[Buzzrock 15147]

Saw this saucy number at the golf course yesterday. ‘74 maybe?

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

58 minutes ago, Buzzrock said:

Saw this saucy number at the golf course yesterday. ‘74 maybe?

I've puked that color before.

[Prepuce of Doom 21296]

The orange trim is an unusual choice for that green. I'd have expected a Miami Hurricanes plate. 

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

12 minutes ago, Prepuce of Doom said:

The orange trim is an unusual choice for that green. I'd have expected a Miami Hurricanes plate. 

Along with a balding, paunchy, short guy... in that color at least.  Porches should be red, black, silver. Just my opinion of course

[conVINCEd 21477]

7 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Along with a balding, paunchy, short guy... in that color at least.  Porches should be red, black, silver. Just my opinion of course

The judges will also accept slate gray.

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

12 minutes ago, conVINCEd said:

The judges will also accept slate gray.

Oh yeah...........