10 Days in Budapest and Istanbul

[brown water 3778]

Headed there in September with Mrs.Brown Water.  We've booked flights but otherwise wide open.  What tips does the Surly collective have to offer?  Much appreciated.  

Edited June 27, 2018 by brown water

[texifornia 57031]

GREAT choices. Budapest is the best city in Eastern Europe (Prague is gorgeous, but just so overrun with tourists) and Istanbul is stunningly pretty.

Budapest: The Hungarians are descended from the Huns (i.e. Attila), so they have a very different vibe than most Eastern Europeans - friendlier and rowdier. Their historical statues of basically Barbarians with feathered helmets and axes are extremely metal.

Food - Hungarian food is the best in Central Europe because it actually has flavor. Hope you like paprika. The Jewish Quarter is the coolest part of the city - lots of fun, trendy restaurants and bars. The Street Food Karavan is a fun little area for food trucks that's a wonderful spot to just hang out with the locals.

Drinking: Budapest is famous for "ruin bars" - after the Soviets left and the title to a lot of the old palaces in the central city was unclear, young people moved in and turned them into cool bars. It's a sight to see.

Sightseeing: The castle and cathedral (duh). Andrassy ut is the main shopping drag, with lots of pretty architecture. Margaret Island and Varosliget Park are the two main areas of greenery.

 

Istanbul: There is SO MUCH to do in Istanbul. It's New York-sized. It's really hard to screw it up. Beyond the main stuff like Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, I loved taking the ferry up the Bosphorus to Anadoglu Kavagi on the Black Sea. You can hike up to an old Genoese castle and have fresh caught seabass in the little town center by the water. Otherwise, honestly your days will be pretty full hitting the essential tourist stuff - it's all worth seeing.

There's some very trendy stores in Karakoy and Beyoglu the wife will probably like - my gf at the time bought a lot of reasonably priced jewelry.

You have to eat simit - it's like a Turkish bagel - and the babaganoush in Istanbul made me reconsider my entire conception of what eggplant could be.

Edited June 28, 2018 by texifornia

[midtown 3346]

Agreed. Budapest it's one of my favorite cites.

Edited June 28, 2018 by midtown

[52-80 19195]

41 minutes ago, texifornia said:

...

Budapest: The Hungarians are descended from the Huns (i.e. Attila), so they have a very different vibe than most Eastern Europeans - friendlier and rowdier. Their historical statues of basically Barbarians with feathered helmets and axes are extremely metal.

....

Full post mostly right....  

...However the contemporary Hungarians are not descended from the Huns of Attila by any means except Anglicized-coincidence.  In Hungarian, they are called Magyars and the Magyar people do not have any definitive genetic, cultural, or linguistic link to the Huns.  

There are some claims in folklore history, and having occupied broadly the same pannonian basin / central europe area, overtime there have been inevitable pollination, but the link is as broad and tenuous as Eurasian claims to be African.  

***

That said, the Jewish quarter (district 7) is the liveliest and funnest area to stay.  Though neighboring 6th and 8th are good as well.  The Continental Hotel is a good one, but also consider the independent hotels next to river on the Buda side of the city (=West), as you get a great view across the Danube, and its a bit quieter and less crowded.

Lots of great eating in that city.  Though IMO its not the local cuisine, which is very much commoner pork and stew.  You can get fantastic haute and modern cuisine for perhaps the best value in Europe.  Theres a couple of Michelin stars bestowed in the city.  My fav are Costes and Mak (not starred).  If you dont live in Texas, they have a burgeoning Austin/Franklin-inspired TX BBQ scene which is...interesting.  Quite a lot of mexican restaurants as well but those should be avoided.

***

Istanbul ... their food is a gem.  The most underrated in Europe.  And among the best, bar none.  The eggplant dishes are fucking great - mama ganoush but also soslu patlican, imam bayildi, etc.  The contemporary cuisine is great, but seek out restaurants that specialize specifically in ottoman imperial cuisine, too.  

Most of the tourist attractions are concentrated in Sultanahmet, but most hotels there are smaller kinda shittier places.  The fancier ones (e.g. grand hyatt and park hyatt are both there) serving business clienteles are between taksim and besiktas.... a bit further away from most attractions.  Theres a really nice independent ones called Karakoy Rooms in that up and coming neighborhood.  Its attached to a nice restaurant of same name.  

No need to recommend specific restaurants because there are so many good ones.  If you want to go to one just to say youve been there, take the ferry over to Kadikoy and visit Cifa Sofrasi.  Taking the ferry on the bosphorus is an essential experience.  If you visit in the right season, take the ferry over to the Princes' Islands for a nice day trip to get away from the bustle.

***

Lastly, i dont know what kind of traveler you are, but if you have 10 *full* days for those 2 cities, consider doing 4+3+3 with a 3rd city or lots of side trips

[texifornia 57031]

Hah! Guess my Hungarian friend misled me. Knowing her, she thought the Attila thing was a more fun story to tell.

[52-80 19195]

25 minutes ago, texifornia said:

Hah! Guess my Hungarian friend misled me. Knowing her, she thought the Attila thing was a more fun story to tell.

All those tribes over all that time make 1 big dirty mess anyway

[Bone3421 716]

Faust wine cellar...set up a wine tasting
Its all Hungarian and unless its changed it will be cash only due to it being in an old monastery buried beneath the hilton on the buda side

Great way to finish a day and can plan your visit to fishermans bastion/mattias church and buda castle for that day. Wont have to leave the area all day

[texifornia 57031]

Lucky you - this is an excellent article: https://www.wsj.com/articles/the-best-of-budapest-a-guide-for-strategic-travelers-1530116774

[Fudge Nuggets 19208]

On 6/28/2018 at 8:55 PM, 52-80 said:

All those tribes over all that time make 1 big dirty mess anyway

They also made some fine ass bitches.

[Continental Op 3934]

If you have a date in Constantinople she'll be waiting in Istanbul. 

[Spankytoes 1742]

The food in Budapest was surprisingly good. The ketchup they use there would probably beat Whataburger in a taste test. It has a kick of Worcestershire or something. There is a cheap eats place called Kors that has kickass homemade sandwiches and sodas. It’s pretty big with the local crowd, albeit, located in a street no bigger than an alley. The chimneys with cinnamon, vanilla or chocolate powder as a meal in themselves. Everything is dirt cheap. We stayed at the Radisson Blu in an Executive Suite for 28,000 Points. It had a sitting area, living room and 2 King beds. I think the cost would have been $90/night had we paid for it. Some gothic stained glass windows there too.

I’d recommend a bus tour for sure as well as a night cruise on the Danube. The subway is easy to figure out if you can pay attention instead of relying on announcements. A lot of people speak English so communication isn’t really an issue.

I had to bypass Istanbul because they had bombed the airport before I went and the had a coup the week after I was scheduled to leave. Still on my list to go.

[Bone3421 716]

I believe that kick spanky would be the paprika they are famous for

[texifornia 57031]

2 hours ago, Spankytoes said:

The food in Budapest was surprisingly good. The ketchup they use there would probably beat Whataburger in a taste test. It has a kick of Worcestershire or something. There is a cheap eats place called Kors that has kickass homemade sandwiches and sodas. It’s pretty big with the local crowd, albeit, located in a street no bigger than an alley. The chimneys with cinnamon, vanilla or chocolate powder as a meal in themselves. Everything is dirt cheap. We stayed at the Radisson Blu in an Executive Suite for 28,000 Points. It had a sitting area, living room and 2 King beds. I think the cost would have been $90/night had we paid for it. Some gothic stained glass windows there too.

I’d recommend a bus tour for sure as well as a night cruise on the Danube. The subway is easy to figure out if you can pay attention instead of relying on announcements. A lot of people speak English so communication isn’t really an issue.

I had to bypass Istanbul because they had bombed the airport before I went and the had a coup the week after I was scheduled to leave. Still on my list to go.

Hah we narrowly missed each other in Istanbul. I was there during the protests and it was wonderful. No lines for anything, currency made my dollar go further. Very fun.

[Thetexashammer 1062]

Third rec on the bosporus boat ride. 

I stayed in Sultanahmet at The Ambassador. Twenty yards from the main plaza, solid breakfast. I thought they were good people. Breakfast looks out over the Hagia Sophia. http://www.hotelambassador.com/

Strong rec on any kind of mezze. Basically small plates of everything. It's fucking fantastic. I found one with all you can drink turkish wine, which is mostly just young drinkable white wine. Lots of seafood. 

Folks in Istanbul will try and get you to give them money constantly. Didn't bother me, but it did bother the wife.

I regret not leaving the tourist areas. But you can spend 5 days within walking distance and have a great time. 

STRONG REC EAT THE BAKLAVA. They have like fifty different kinds, doesn't matter what kind you get, but do not just walk past the window when you see it. Get tea/coffee, sample one or two flavors. It's off the hook. You have no idea until you try it. Beats the shit out of "turkish delight". 

I would love to visit the rest of Turkey. Ephesus is a big site. Capadoccia. Turkish riviera. 

Hottest women I've ever seen.

Edited July 3, 2018 by Thetexashammer

[brown water 3778]

Thanks again the recommendations.  Depart tonight and will report back.  

Edited September 13, 2018 by brown water

[52-80 19195]

if youre not living in texas, bbq is really catching on in budapest.  theres a couple of restaurants in the city doing a decent rendition, and another country joint 30 minutes north along the danube that might as well be on the brazos

[Bernard 879]

When you get to Istanbul, eat here: https://www.yelp.com/biz/sarnıç-restaurant-istanbul

Restaurant is located below street level in a 3,000 year old room that was part of the city's underground water storage system. 

Bernard

Edited September 13, 2018 by Bernard

[Bone3421 716]

And to call back to earlier post and like bernard said about underground shit....hope you got a tasting at faust wine cellar

[smwhorn 482]

Bumping this thread too (already bumped Prague).

Will be in Budapest for three days starting Friday.  Anyone have anything to add to the earlier posts?

Thanks.

[RPM 26326]

On 7/2/2018 at 2:31 PM, Continental Op said:

If you have a date in Constantinople she'll be waiting in Istanbul. 

Why did Constantinople get the works?

[Bozo_Casanova 26504]

That’s nobody’s business but the Turks

[elfenix 34330]

The modern Turkish name İstanbul (pronounced [isˈtanbuɫ]) (Ottoman Turkish: استانبول‎) is attested (in a range of variants) since the 10th century, at first in Armenian and Arabic (without the initial İ-) and then in Ottoman sources. It derives from the Greek phrase "στην Πόλη" " [stimˈboli], meaning "in the city" or "to the city", reinterpreted as a single word;^[13][14] a similar case is Stimboli, Crete.^[15] It is thus based on the common Greek usage of referring to Constantinople simply as The City (see above).

 

 

[Doug E. Fresh 452]

Resurrecting this thread as I’m going to Budapest in March. I’ve been 4 times before so know it reasonably well but it has been over a decade since the last trip. So, I’m looking for any recs on the restaurant scene plus thoughts on day trips. Always wanted to do Eger - anyone been and is it worth a day? Other suggestions?

[4th&Five 41565]

Finger’s crossed I’ll be going to Budapest in July. Vienna and Krakow as well. 

[Doug E. Fresh 452]

On 1/22/2022 at 4:41 PM, 4th&Five said:

Finger’s crossed I’ll be going to Budapest in July. Vienna and Krakow as well. 

Excellent, let me know what you’re planning for Budapest and will do the same.

[6th Street 6433]

Trying to tack on a 2nd city for a London trip this August with my kids (4 and 2). Been to most of the other major cities but thinking Budapest, Berlin, or Edinburgh for this one. Feels like Budapest by a mile?

[4th&Five 41565]

Just based on geography I'd go to Edinburgh.  Great city too.

[52-80 19195]

1 hour ago, 6th Street said:

Trying to tack on a 2nd city for a London trip this August with my kids (4 and 2). Been to most of the other major cities but thinking Budapest, Berlin, or Edinburgh for this one. Feels like Budapest by a mile?

Edinburgh first for proximity, and compactness. Budapest okay, too. Berlin is a bit anodyne. 

[52-80 19195]

On 1/22/2022 at 12:50 PM, Doug E. Fresh said:

Resurrecting this thread as I’m going to Budapest in March. I’ve been 4 times before so know it reasonably well but it has been over a decade since the last trip. So, I’m looking for any recs on the restaurant scene plus thoughts on day trips. Always wanted to do Eger - anyone been and is it worth a day? Other suggestions?

Suppose your trip is already done, but restaurant scene is getting modern cuisine from talented young chefs — including Michelin * joints of which there are a bunch — for really good value.  Even more so for lunch menus. 

Favs are St Andrea wine bar, Costes, Mak.  Salt and Rumor is also good.  Olimpia is under the radar and literaly underground.  

Onyx, Arany Kaviar, Baraka also fine too.  Really hard to go wrong in the city  

Eger is a quick day trip, but not real must-see. Similar small towns with quaint city centers for a quick walk through is Szetendre.  Other theme for visit if youre into that stuff are castles and fortresses from the Hungarian-Ottoman wars like at Eger, Szigetvar, etc.

I’d just stay in the the city to eat and drink.

 

[4th&Five 41565]

Good information. I’ll still be going in July. 

[Doug E. Fresh 452]

1 hour ago, 52-80 said:

Suppose your trip is already done, but restaurant scene is getting modern cuisine from talented young chefs — including Michelin * joints of which there are a bunch — for really good value.  Even more so for lunch menus. 

Favs are St Andrea wine bar, Costes, Mak.  Salt and Rumor is also good.  Olimpia is under the radar and literaly underground.  

Onyx, Arany Kaviar, Baraka also fine too.  Really hard to go wrong in the city  

Eger is a quick day trip, but not real must-see. Similar small towns with quaint city centers for a quick walk through is Szetendre.  Other theme for visit if youre into that stuff are castles and fortresses from the Hungarian-Ottoman wars like at Eger, Szigetvar, etc.

I’d just stay in the the city to eat and drink.

 

Appreciate the feedback. Decided to swap Budapest for Marrakech due to the Ukraine situation but will likely do it as a city break later this year.