Penelope Witherspoon's Travel Thread

[Longhorn94 2427]

our oldest son leaves for a semester in Paris next week. we are planning a trip for 8 days in Paris in March for his birthday and our anniversary. I will review this thread for ideas but suggestions would be appreciated!

 

And thank you PW for not only your work in Trading Places but also the trip diary. outstanding!

 

 

Edited January 7, 2019 by Longhorn94

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

On 1/7/2019 at 11:42 AM, Longhorn94 said:

our oldest son leaves for a semester in Paris next week. we are planning a trip for 8 days in Paris in March for his birthday and our anniversary. I will review this thread for ideas but suggestions would be appreciated!

 

And thank you PW for not only your work in Trading Places but also the trip diary. outstanding!

 

 

I am so glad people appreciate my hard work in Trading Places.  

As Paris is my favorite place in the world, planning for Paris is always a good time.  I am happy to send forth suggestions.  Any specifics or must dos you have?  

 

Also, as a note to Surly, today is my birthday.  I was hoping to launch my blog today (yes, I have been working on it forever, but given my real job, I need to amass enough content first), so it is a bit postponed.  But, once I launch it, will let you all know.  

Trip schedule for 2019 has changed a bit.  It is now:

March - Lisbon and Porto

May - Milan and Venice

June - Norway

November - North of England

2020 Schedule is shaping up to be the following:

March/April/May (still deciding) - Spain (parts)

Fall - TBD.  Looking at Thailand and Vietnam currently.  

Considering trying to fit an Egypt trip in as well.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Norway has been a logistical nightmare given the weekend I need to be in Tromso for my friend's marathon, so I am moving that to a later year.  I will be there with her in Spirit, but getting to Tromso from Texas is just a fucking nightmare.

Portugal is fast approaching.  I leave on the 22nd.  So ready for a vacation.  I have not had anything more than a long weekend since the almost 4 week trip last summer.  Definitely need the time off.  Still making plans.  Have not had a lot of time to dedicate to the planning yet.  

New opportunity popped up to spend almost two weeks in Prague and Budapest around Thanksgiving, so I am going to do that rather than the North of England.  I have never been to either, so really interested to get people's thoughts on both cities.  

Also, Spain in 2020 is starting to take shape.  Will be 3 weeks around Easter (I want to be in Seville on Good Friday).  

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

And Budapest/Prague is now on slate for November of this year.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

In less than 48 hours, I'll be en route to Portugal.

[PencilPusher 454]

On 8/7/2018 at 8:53 PM, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

 

Dinner was to be at La Sagrestia.  The owner was our waiter both Saturday and Sunday nights.  Yes, it was THAT good that we went twice.  

 

 

On the recommendation of this thread, actually ate at La Sagrestia for lunch when we were by the Pantheon this last Sunday. As the Italians would say, it was molto bene!

Can confirm that the cacio e pepe was great as my youngest daughter (who discovered that dish as her new thing in Italy) ordered it. Definitely one of the best meals we had in Italy. I need to get on the Italy thread and post a few things. 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

On 3/21/2019 at 3:39 PM, PencilPusher said:

On the recommendation of this thread, actually ate at La Sagrestia for lunch when we were by the Pantheon this last Sunday. As the Italians would say, it was molto bene!

Can confirm that the cacio e pepe was great as my youngest daughter (who discovered that dish as her new thing in Italy) ordered it. Definitely one of the best meals we had in Italy. I need to get on the Italy thread and post a few things. 

I am so glad you enjoyed it.  It is pretty amazing.  I love that it doesn't make any of the Best in Rome lists. It feels more local secret that way.  

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

The Portugal trip is started.  Was able to upgrade to business on BA for a reasonable amount so I did (was originally in Prem Economy).  Ready to get this thing started.  Of course, as I was on the way to the airport, I realized I left three or four things I needed in Houston, but I can buy them all in Lisbon (or Heathrow), so no big deal. 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Missed sunset.

Not bad though.

[Zombie 284]

Timeout magazine has an awesome food hall with something like 40 restaurants and an amazing self serve beer and wine bar in the middle. 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Just some photos of the amazing seafood tonight. These are before and after photos.

[Braff Zacklin 13409]

There's always rep for crustacea.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Any rep for a 1978 port. It's the year I was born!

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

More gratuitous crustacean shots. Yes, I sucked the heads (last photo is said sucked heads).

[Braff Zacklin 13409]

12 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Any rep for a 1978 port. It's the year I was born!

Don't get greedy. Besides, aged or not, port is a bit cloying for my taste.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

And more of the red shrimp.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

I am officially done on the red shrimp.  They are amazing, but three days in a row is enough.  At least for now.  I might have to get one more on Saturday before I leave Portugal on Sunday.  

Porto is very interesting.  Tons of derelict buildings in the city center.  I am seriously looking at Property.  Might be a good location for a vacation property.  The terrain is interesting.  Lots of hills, stairs, pedestrian only areas.  No need to try and work out on your vacation.  :mrgreen:

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Port tastings and tours.

 

 

[Braff Zacklin 13409]

15 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

I am officially done on the red shrimp.  They are amazing, but three days in a row is enough.

That's good because I think I've exhausted all the rep I can award for them. Try mixing up those decapodans, like something from the Astacidea infraorder.

Serious question: do the Portuguese have anything analogous to paella? If so, I would be on that like, uh, fish on rice.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Sort of. I'm having it tomorrow at this little local joint.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

So, I am going to have to come back to Porto and the Douro Valley.  Just wow.  

However, today I need to detox.  I have had so much port and wine over the last 3 days that I was actually unable to sleep last night.  I am exhausted as I sit here in the train station awaiting my train back to Lisbon.  Once I get to Lisbon, I am going to run an errand or two, and then call it a night in my Airbnb.  That way, I can cover a lot of ground tomorrow and then be in early tomorrow night for my early flight on Sunday.

Port purchases in Porto include 6 bottles from Vasconcellos (2 bottles of 10 year white, 2 bottles of 40 year tawny, and one bottle each of 20 and 30 year tawny), One bottle of Taylor's (their special edition in a special bottle), and then 3 from Croft (their 430th Anniversary edition, a 2003 and a 2016 vintage).  All in all, pleased with that.

[TxTower 650]

Sounds fantastic. How are you getting all those bottles home?

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Sounds fantastic. How are you getting all those bottles home?

Checked bag for 4 of them. I have wine skins, though most come in their own boxes. I know how to pack wine.

The other 6, I had shipped.

[texasdago 7552]

Shipped?  How is that going to work out?

 

I bring back 6-8 bottles when we return from Italy... dirty laundry has its uses.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Shipped?  How is that going to work out?
 
I bring back 6-8 bottles when we return from Italy... dirty laundry has its uses.

Have you never shipped wine? They do it for a lot of American clients.

[texasdago 7552]

On 3/30/2019 at 3:24 PM, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

On 3/29/2019 at 9:33 AM, texasdago said:

Shipped?  How is that going to work out?
 
I bring back 6-8 bottles when we return from Italy... dirty laundry has its uses.

Have you never shipped wine? They do it for a lot of American clients.

No... are you in Texas because usually there are all kinds of issues.  I also bring back a big variety of wine and not just from one vineyard.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Just now, texasdago said:

No... are you in Texas because usually there are all kinds of issues.  I also bring back a big variety of wine and not just from one vineyard.

I am in Texas, and I have done this before and never had any issues.  I bought back 4 other bottles of Port and 2 bottles of Ginja.  Two of the six bottle I had shipped are gifts.  The others (2 10 year whites, a 30 and a 40 year Tawny) are for me.   

[texasdago 7552]

This is what TABC says

"

Foreign Wineries

Under current state law, wineries located outside of the United States are not authorized to ship wine directly to consumers in Texas.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

56 minutes ago, texasdago said:

This is what TABC says
"

Foreign Wineries

Under current state law, wineries located outside of the United States are not authorized to ship wine directly to consumers in Texas.

I am wondering what bug crawled up your ass that you are making a big deal of it and seem to be the TABC's personal cheerleader. Just let it go.

And FYI, TABC sucks utterly and completely.  It is in the pocket of the distributors and the wholesalers with its draconian laws and really works against the producers and the consumers.  It needs to be abolished.

Edited April 1, 2019 by PenelopeWitherspoon

[texasdago 7552]

5 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

I am wondering what bug crawled up your ass that you are making a big deal of it and seem to be the TABC's personal cheerleader. Just let it go.

And FYI, TABC sucks utterly and completely.  It is in the pocket of the distributors and the wholesalers with its draconian laws and really works against the producers and the consumers.  It needs to be abolished.

Uh... what?  I'm not sure what prompted your rant since I was just commenting about shipping and included a quote.  I'm glad you can infer that I love TABC from my post or that I support the system as it is set up in Texas.  Quite impressive at reading between the lines.  Second, you went to Taylor Fladgate (also owns Croft, Fonseca)... a large port house that has relationships with large importers.  I believe that's how they get around it.  We often go to smaller wineries that have smaller productions and, guess what, they can't ship to Texas.  I also don't want to pay for inflated costs and excess shipping fees.  So, yeah, I pack my wine in dirty underwear and I posted the TABCs information because, like it or not, they enforce the laws of shipping to this state, even if they suck.

- Signed, TABC's personal cheerleader 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2019 by texasdago

[Braff Zacklin 13409]

This is what happens when you exhaust your supply of crustacea pictures.

[PencilPusher 454]

17 hours ago, texasdago said:

  We often go to smaller wineries that have smaller productions and, guess what, they can't ship to Texas. 

 

 

Probably depends on the winery......just had some stuff shipped from a smaller winery in Tuscany. They did have it sent to a US handler which then sent it via FedEx which may be how they got around the rules since it wasn't "direct". I also brought some bottles back via luggage, but limited it due to luggage weight restrictions, customs officers, and TSA thieves at Newark airport, who inspected 3 of our 4 bags upon return to the US, but miraculously did not open the one with the wine in it (including a nice Super Tuscan). Guessing had they opened that one, they would have snatched it. 

Miss the old days when you could just pile it all into a couple of carry-ons. Thanks a lot Bin Laden........and F TABC 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

18 hours ago, texasdago said:

Uh... what?  I'm not sure what prompted your rant since I was just commenting about shipping and included a quote.  I'm glad you can infer that I love TABC from my post or that I support the system as it is set up in Texas.  Quite impressive at reading between the lines.  Second, you went to Taylor Fladgate (also owns Croft, Fonseca)... a large port house that has relationships with large importers.  I believe that's how they get around it.  We often go to smaller wineries that have smaller productions and, guess what, they can't ship to Texas.  I also don't want to pay for inflated costs and excess shipping fees.  So, yeah, I pack my wine in dirty underwear and I posted the TABCs information because, like it or not, they enforce the laws of shipping to this state, even if they suck.

- Signed, TABC's personal cheerleader 

 

 

Jesus.  Someone is a little sensitive.  I was giving you shit for basically threadshitting and lecturing.  Lighten up Francis. 

The place I ordered the port from is not Taylor's (or Croft).  It is a small house that does not import to the US.  However, as they have a lot of US Clients, my guess is that they have relationships and use those to get around it.  FYI, I shipped 6 bottle and brought back 6 bottles.  I have definitely brought back more, but you are limited to I believe 5 gallons by TSA.  

 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

13 hours ago, Braff Zacklin said:

This is what happens when you exhaust your supply of crustacea pictures.

No shit.  I have other photos though.  I just got back to Houston, but I will be putting together a trip report soon.  Now I have to plan Milan and Venice.  

[Braff Zacklin 13409]

 

[texasdago 7552]

The irony in some of the responses.

 

How much you bring back each trip varies from state to state.  While the State Dept has rules in place, TABC says you can bring up to 3 gallons of wine back per person.  That's 11 liters of wine.  TSA does not have the right to take that wine.  When they ask, just tell them... "we have 8 bottles of wine" or whatever.  I've never had a problem.   Each winery is different... many small ones will tell you that they don't bother importing their wine to the US because of the quantities they have to produce, the different labels they have to produce, etc.  In some cases, they may have an importer that services an area like New York or Chicago but are screwed when it comes to Texas.  

 

Also super rare for me to want to get 6 wines from one winery... more likely to want 2 from here, 2 from here, etc. or to even go to a regional enoteca like the one in Emilia Romagna and come back with a big mix of wines.

Edited April 2, 2019 by texasdago

[Smax 3800]

The irony in some of the responses.
 
How much you bring back each trip varies from state to state.  While the State Dept has rules in place, TABC says you can bring up to 3 gallons of wine back per person.  That's 11 liters of wine.  TSA does not have the right to take that wine.  When they ask, just tell them... "we have 8 bottles of wine" or whatever.  I've never had a problem.   Each winery is different... many small ones will tell you that they don't bother importing their wine to the US because of the quantities they have to produce, the different labels they have to produce, etc.  In some cases, they may have an importer that services an area like New York or Chicago but are screwed when it comes to Texas.  
 
Also super rare for me to want to get 6 wines from one winery... more likely to want 2 from here, 2 from here, etc. or to even go to a regional enoteca like the one in Emilia Romagna and come back with a big mix of wines.

How about you just stfu in this

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

15 minutes ago, texasdago said:

The irony in some of the responses.

 

How much you bring back each trip varies from state to state.  While the State Dept has rules in place, TABC says you can bring up to 3 gallons of wine back per person.  That's 11 liters of wine.  TSA does not have the right to take that wine.  When they ask, just tell them... "we have 8 bottles of wine" or whatever.  I've never had a problem.   Each winery is different... many small ones will tell you that they don't bother importing their wine to the US because of the quantities they have to produce, the different labels they have to produce, etc.  In some cases, they may have an importer that services an area like New York or Chicago but are screwed when it comes to Texas.  

 

Also super rare for me to want to get 6 wines from one winery... more likely to want 2 from here, 2 from here, etc. or to even go to a regional enoteca like the one in Emilia Romagna and come back with a big mix of wines.

Actually, both CPB and TSA can impose restrictions.  On hard liquor, TSA has limits you can have un your checked bags.  No limits on wine.

Alcoholic beverages with more than 24% but not more than 70% alcohol are limited in checked bags to 5 liters (1.3 gallons) per passenger and must be in unopened retail packaging. Alcoholic beverages with 24% alcohol or less are not subject to limitations in checked bags. 

Mini bottles of alcohol in carry-on must be able to comfortably fit into a single quart-sized bag.

For more information, see FAA regulation: 49 CFR 175.10(a)(4).

For CPB, if you are bringing more than 12 bottles back, they may say you are importing for commercial reasons and without proper permits, you could be fucked.

And finally, if you have so much that you are over weight on the airlines, they could do something about it.  

Now, please stop threadshitting.

 

[PencilPusher 454]

Just to be clear, the TSA thieves I was referring to were the people who just take your stuff when they look through your bags, irrespective of whatever customs requirements exist. Have had bad experiences at Newark in the past because it is..well Newark. 

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...............

 

[Onboard 2.0 9083]

I like port. Tawnys, Vintage years, 20 years old.  Liquid sunshine.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Ok, I am finally getting around to starting my trip report.  

Flew out of Austin on Friday, March 22.  Flew BA.  Was given the opportunity to upgrade to Business at the airport (originally supposed to be in Premium Economy), and I took it.  We were supposed to be in a 747, but that flight out was on a 777.  The flight was uneventful, which is the preference for a flight, and I got about 6 hours of sleep.  

Had a long layover in London on the 23.  Probably could have gotten friends to meet me for lunch, but I just went to the BA Lounge and finished up some things I needed to do.

Arrive in Lisbon around 5:30 on March 23.  It was no big deal to get out, get luggage, and grab a cab.  I was staying at the H10 Duque de Loulé for the first three nights I was in Lisbon.  My room was large and comfortable, but the best thing about the hotel was the rooftop bar which gave you these views.

That evening, I had reservations at Alma for dinner.  I headed down towards the restaurant, taking in some of the sites as I went.  Alma is on a small street off one of the most lively streets in Chiado.  That lively street has a lot of cafes, and around 9:00 pm on a Saturday night has a lot of street performers.  

First, there was a fire juggler, then a guy who looks like he is standing on air, and then a dance crew.  

On the corner of the street I needed to take to get to Alma is one of the oldest bookstores still in existence.  It has this beautiful walls of tile, which is common all over Lisbon.

I am going to do dinner at Alma in one post, so I will stop here and start the next one.

 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Well, I had started a post, and for whatever reason, my browser reset and erased the damned thing.  Sigh.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Ok, I will try again.  Dinner at Alma.  Alma is Henrique Sá Pessoa's 2 Michelin Star (received the second in 2019) in Chiado.  It is not quite haute cuisine, but is rather Portuguese elevated.  The food is made with traditional Portuguese ingredients, and the wine list is full of Portuguese wines.

While I would later try the Portuguese sparkling wines, for my first meal of my vacation, I started out with Champagne.  Delamotte to be exact.  For those that are unaware, Delamotte is the sister winery to Salon.  It is one of my favorites, especially for the price point.

Rather than doing the set menu, I did a la carte.  I started with the bread course.  Yes, this included the normal bread and butter, but it also included all the little special bites as well that you normally see in a prix fix multi course meal.  First came tapioca crackers with oyster mayonnaise and cockles in their own juices (who knew I would like these tasty little mollusks).  Then came cod fish tongue (called that, but actually a small muscle in the neck of the fish) with peas and coriander (really enjoyed this).  And then finally came tempura peppers with a really tasty red pepper sauce.  

In anticipation of my first course, I went ahead and ordered another glass of wine.  This time, I went with a Portuguese Riesling from Alentejo, the region south of Lisbon but north of the Algarve.  This Riesling (a 2017 from Herdade do Arrepiado Velho) reminded me of the wines from Alsace, which are my favorite Rieslings.  

 

My first course was Portuguese Sole with pureed green peas, Alentejo chorizo, and a noisette hollandaise.  Even though I really enjoyed my main course, this was the best dish of the night, and potentially one of the best things I had in Portugal.  The fish was beautiful, and all the flavors went amazingly well together.  

In order to prepare for my main course, ordered the 2013 Respiro Claret, staying in the Alentejo region.  

The main course was the Alentejo Pork Presa with banana chutney, passionfruit and onion pickle, and spiced molasses jus.  I really liked this dish, but having been blown away by the previous dish, this one just wasn't as impressive.  Still very, very good.  The pork was cooked perfectly, and the flavors did go very, very well together, but it just could not top that Portuguese Sole.

As an after dinner drink, went with a glass of La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Blanc as I had ordered something citrusy and light for dessert and this would pair better.  I had never had it, and I really, really enjoyed it.

Dessert was called Sea flavors and citrus and included yuzu sorbet and crystallized algae.  It was not overly sweet, which was just what I needed.  And it went great with the vermouth.

Then, after my main dessert, they brought out some more little bites.  From right to left is a chestnut macaron, a chocolate truffle, and then my favorite, their riff on a pastel de nata in a nice little bite.  

I really enjoyed my meal at Alma, and I would recommend it to anyone looking to go to Lisbon.

 

Edited April 14, 2019 by PenelopeWitherspoon
Needed to finish this post.

[tx 3 putt 76314]

Great thread 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

After dinner, I was way too full to go back to the hotel.  So, I decided to walk around Chiado a bit.  First stopped at Café A Brasileira for a Ginjinha and a bica.  This cafe is pretty historical, and is known for hosting the Lisbon literati, including Fernando Pessoa (there is even a bronze statue of him outside!).

After that headed up the road and saw another dance crew.  This time, they did old school breakdancing, which was a lot of fun to watch.

Afterwards, stumbled upon this little street and a number of Ginjinha bars.  Had 4-5 more (yes, it is that good).

After that, called it a night and headed back to the hotel.  And thus completes my first evening in Lisbon.  Now, GoT is on, and I need to see it.  Will come back and post day 2 shortly.

 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Ok, Day 2 in Lisbon started out amazing.  Headed out to Belem for some Pasteis de Nata at Pasteis de Belem.  I got there just after 8, and there was no line. 

I absolutely love these little things.  The pastry crust is crispy with great layers.  They are not too sweet, but I still not sprinkle the cinnamon and sugar on top as some do, as IMO, they are just perfect as is.  Definitely go here.  And go early to avoid this line.  This was around noon or 1 that afternoon.

Next was a stop at the Jerónimos Monastery.  As it was Sunday, and mass was occurring, could not head into the church.  However, the cloisters is the real marvel.  Manueline style, like this monestary and the Tower of Belem, is incredibly ornate and detailed.  I spent an hour wandering around the cloisters and the other areas open, and still could have spent more time.

The above is the Refectory of the monastery.  And all around, are these great tile mosaics.  Here are just a few.

 

Next, I walked over to the Tower of Belem.  The line was long, so I declined going in.  Besides, there was this Wine with a View cart (excellent idea), so I bought a glass or two of Rose and took in the great weather, the pretty scenery, and the amazing blues guitarist who was playing just down the wall from me.

This is the monument to the explorers.  You can climb it as well, but I declined as again, there was a line.

Here is a great view of the monastery across the park.  This is also the park where there was a pothole in the sidewalk, which I mistakenly stepped into and cut the ever living shit out of my hand and started bleeding all over the place.  Fun times.

After my fall, I decided to head back to the hotel and do some first aid.  Once I did that, I took a nap.  I was on vacation afterall.  So I will stop this post here and keep dinner and drinks in the evening and my wandering afterwards to the next post. 

 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Many of you know I have been trying to get a blog started, but real life gets in the way.  Given what happened today, I thought it was appropriate to get something up.  Please feel free to pop by and see my favorite photos over the last 4 years of visits to Our Lady of Paris.

https://www.mlleshetravels.com/single-post/2019/04/15/Remembering-Notre-Dame

[RollLeft 5040]

Great thread, hope your hand is healing.  

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19093]

Great thread, hope your hand is healing.  

Thanks! It has healed, but I'll always bear a scar. Battle wounds I suppose.

[PencilPusher 454]

14 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Many of you know I have been trying to get a blog started, but real life gets in the way.  Given what happened today, I thought it was appropriate to get something up.  Please feel free to pop by and see my favorite photos over the last 4 years of visits to Our Lady of Paris.

https://www.mlleshetravels.com/single-post/2019/04/15/Remembering-Notre-Dame

Nice pictures....been a long time since I have been to Notre Dame. Nice to visit the cathederal and hop over to Glacier Berthillon on Ile de St Louis for some chocolate ice cream on a hot Paris summer day.