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Moby Ric

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Ok, taking the family there at the end of the month.  Looking forward to it since I have never gone, and the kids wanted to do this.  Have a place at the west gate for home base for a couple days.  Then moving to Jackson Hole for the remainder of the trip. Total of a 7 days in the area.   Have a white water rafting trip already booked but looking for some must do's in the park and also for Jackson Hole and the Tetons.  

The place is overwhelming so I want to make sure I have a plan.  Looking for some rec's 

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32 minutes ago, Kennythetiger said:

I had a hard time not singing "I don't know where I'm a gonna go when the volcano blows" when I read all of the information about the caldera underneath Yellowstone.  

yeah there’s gonna be nowhere to go when that thing pops.  sorry bro.  hopefully it’s not for a few thousand more years. 

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Definitely hit the Visitor Centers in both the Tetons and Yellowstone.  They are fun and have a lot of great history and information about the parks.  In Yellowstone, if you want to see elk, go to Mammoth (far north in the park).  Bison are primarily in the Hayden Valley but can be all over.  If you want to see wolves, you'll probably have to put in some work (and ask the rangers - there are people that follow the wolves 24/7 so they know where the packs are), although you might get lucky.  Same for grizzlies.  We saw far more moose down by Jackson than we did in YNP.

The thermals are really cool but get a little repetitive after a bit.  The best, IMO, are Old Faithful and the hike around that area, Grand Prismatic (there is a hike that will take you up above GP to get a better view).  Paint pots are cool as well.

We had a fun meal at the Dornan's Pizza & Pasta Company in Moose (north of Jackson in the Tetons).  They have a wine shop attached so you can go buy a bottle of wine and there is no corkage fee.  Pizza was good.  That was probably our most memorable meal while we were there in the fall.  Spectacular scenery right out the window.  The Tetons are much prettier than YNP, they just don't have as much wildlife.  I wouldn't bother driving up to Jackson Hole (40 min from Jackson).  Not much to see there unless you're going to ride the gondola.

Downtown Jackson is cool but very touristy.  We found some good food at the Signal Mountain Lodge north of Jackson.  Whatever you do, do not eat at Jackson Lake Lodge.  Horribad.

Definitely agree with getting out of your car.  And be ready for gridlock in the park.  Lots of animal related traffic jams in the park, especially in the summer.  See as much of the park as you can.  It's an amazing place.  Get ready for crazy Chinese tourists everywhere.

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This sounds really morbid, but in some gift shop in Yellowstone, there was a book telling about each person that died in Yellowstone and the (almost always) stupid shit that they did to end up dead.  I wish I had read the book before we went.  Also, Yellowstone Falls was my favorite part of the entire park.  

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Thanks Chewy.  I have a couple books on YNP and the area that I am researching.  Just needed to put in order a few not to miss things.  Or maybe places I must eat etc.  I promise to get out of the car and do some of the trails.  

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Thanks Chewy.  I have a couple books on YNP and the area that I am researching.  Just needed to put in order a few not to miss things.  Or maybe places I must eat etc.  I promise to get out of the car and do some of the trails.  
My wife found a fun guided tour (worked off your phones gps to know where you are) that made all the driving more fun.
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1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:
2 hours ago, Moby Ric said:
Thanks Chewy.  I have a couple books on YNP and the area that I am researching.  Just needed to put in order a few not to miss things.  Or maybe places I must eat etc.  I promise to get out of the car and do some of the trails.  

My wife found a fun guided tour (worked off your phones gps to know where you are) that made all the driving more fun.

Was it Gypsy?  I downloaded that for Banff, the Icefields Parkway, and Jasper and it was awesome.

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1 minute ago, Biff Tannen said:

Was it Gypsy?  I downloaded that for Banff, the Icefields Parkway, and Jasper and it was awesome.

That sounds about right.  It was a guy who knew the park inside and out and not only gave you a lot of history about the park, but he also told you which places were worth stopping and which were not.

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This sounds really morbid, but in some gift shop in Yellowstone, there was a book telling about each person that died in Yellowstone and the (almost always) stupid shit that they did to end up dead.  I wish I had read the book before we went.  Also, Yellowstone Falls was my favorite part of the entire park.  

 

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I don’t have that one, but these two are really interesting:

 

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6da7346e89252b4d87f6a346da4143c4.jpg

 

The Big Bend one by Laurence Parent is good, too.

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Each summer I spend from around June 1 until early October at my cabin about 11 miles outside the SW corner of Yellowstone.  Both parks are fantastic and are great places to take the family.  I agree with everything Chewbacca said and would add a few other considerations:

(1)  The Canyon visitor center is focused on the Yellowstone super-volcanoes and does a great job presenting the immensity of the eruptions compared to Mt. St. Helens.  My cabin is on the side of one of the previous super-volcano calderas, so I'm always looking out the window for a pyroclastic cloud.  The Old Faithful visitor center is also really good.  Both centers have free films, which can be a good way to cool off on a warm afternoon.

(2)  One of the highlights of Yellowstone is the wildlife.  Keep in mind your best chances to see wildlife are in the very early morning hours and at dusk.  The animals don't like to be exposed to the heat of the sun, except for the bison, who don't have a choice.  If you do any backcountry hiking away from the crowds, take bear spray and keep it handy (not stuck in a backpack).  I think I saw a place last month next to the Canyon visitor center that rents the cannisters.  Otherwise they cost around $50.  Either the summer of 2016 or 2017 a guy got killed and partially eaten by a mother grizzly and her two cubs a short distance from the Canyon visitors center, so, while unlikely you'll even see a grizzly in the park, the precaution is no joke.  People are attacked by grizzlies in the greater Yellowstone ecosystem each year.  I own "Death in Yellowstone" to scare my houseguests upon arrival, but I haven't had to read it - I just read the newspaper.  In 2018 there have been two bison attacks and two elk attacks in Yellowstone (in Mammoth Hot Springs - don't walk between a cow elk and her cute baby for a better photo angle).  The bears so far are being held scoreless.

(3)  Traffic is going to be bad in the parks, which is another good reason to drive around very early and very late, and hike in between. Or buy some drinks at the upstairs bar at the Old Faithful Inn and watch the geyser from the upstairs deck.  Although you have a pretty good outline to cover both parks in the brief time you have, I'll throw out another back-up plan, if you get sick of the hordes of tourists.  The entire Yellowstone ecosystem is really pretty and has a lot to see.  My property, for example, was originally slated to be part of Yellowstone NP, but economic interests (probably timber) had the proposed park boundary moved before the park was established, so there are some really nice sights near my place.  So here are a few places convenient to West Yellowstone (within an hour drive), where I think you are staying, that will be away from the hordes, but worth seeing:  Wade Lake and Cliff Lake (next to each other), Big Spring and the Johnny Sack Cabin, Sawtelle Peak (connects to Mt. Jefferson by a nice, alpine trail, albeit through prime grizzly country),  Upper Mesa Falls (with a nice visitors center), Lower Mesa Falls, Cave Falls and Bechler Falls (these last two are actually in the SW corner of Yellowstone NP, but can only be accessed by car by driving in on a short road poking in from the SW side of the park).  Some of these sights are accessed by a (US Forestry Service) gravel road, which is common up here, so don't lose your nerve when the pavement ends.  If you are out west of Yellowstone, a nice restaurant/bar is located at Trouthunter located in Island Park, Idaho.

(4) The geology of this area is fascinating, so if you get a chance to attend a ranger geology talk, go check it out.

If you have any specific questions, post them here and I'll check back from time to time.  I've got a group of friends and family arriving from Austin the first week of August for a visit.  My copy of "Death in Yellowstone" is already on the coffee table for them.

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On 7/10/2018 at 12:55 PM, Chewbacca said:

...  Grand Prismatic (there is a hike that will take you up above GP to get a better view). 

That path, on the way to Fairy Falls, walks on the backside of the Midway Geyser Basin (where Grand Prismatic is located).  When we were there 6 years ago, it was still very much "wild/natural" to get up the hill that overlooks GP...  but I've heard they've actually created an overlook now, so there's *no excuse* to do that.

Here's my write-up from when we did that Fairy Falls hike: http://www.balettie.com/fairy-falls/

Grand%20Prismatic%20-%20from%20atop%20hi

Grand%20Prismatic%20-%20from%20atop%20hi

 

...but don't stop there -- Fairy Falls is worth the walk!

Fairy%20Falls%20(5).jpg

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Those Asian tourists scared me along those walkways.  In some of those areas, if you fell off, you could die.  And people just walk around not looking, and not caring if they bump into you.  Keep an eye on them.

Watch out for them on the roads, too, but that's just common sense.

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11 minutes ago, miguelito said:

Those Asian tourists scared me along those walkways.  In some of those areas, if you fell off, you could die.  And people just walk around not looking, and not caring if they bump into you.  Keep an eye on them.

Watch out for them on the roads, too, but that's just common sense.

Yeah, I tried being the nice guy and avoiding them at first, but so many of them have so little self awareness (thanks, selfie sticks!) that after about a half day of that, I let them run into me and move their asses.  I would just stop moving and wait for the inevitable collision.

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My wife and I just got back from Jackson Hole 2 days ago after spending a week there.  We absolutely loved it.  The trip was originally scheduled around a friend's 40th birthday, and we decided to head up there a few days early and make a vacation out of it.  We felt weird not going up to Yellowstone, but decided there was plenty in and around JH to occupy us this go-around, so we saved Yellowstone for next time.

A few highlights for us:

* Hiking from the Jenny Lake boat launch on the south bank up to Hidden Falls on the west bank and taking the boat back across.  We did this on our last day there, and it was a nice easy hike to end the trip on for us.  We don't have any kids, but this hike is easy enough for kids regardless of age as long as they can walk.  The falls are awesome.

* The Park Rangers won't give you any details since it's "off trail", but we hiked up to Delta Lake on our 2nd day in town, and we couldn't stop talking about it for the rest of our trip.  It's a bit NW of Bradley Lake just off the trails for Surprise & Amphitheater Lakes.  Although enough people know about this lake at this point, so there is a discernible "trail", it is still very much a difficult hike at points.  Definitely not for kids or anyone unsure of their footing/trail ability as you can definitely hurt yourself pretty easily with one slip.  And I wouldn't go alone. If your kids are young enough to be with you the entire time, then I would rule this hike out. However, if you and the wife are up for it, the payoff is incredible.  The lake sits in a valley at the base of the Grand Teton peak, and the view is absolutely unreal.  Just google "Delta Lake."

* The fishing won't be all that good for another month or more, but if you enjoy fly-fishing, it's worth the time to throw a line into the Snake River or one of the many lakes/streams inside Teton National Park.

* It sounds weird, but it's hot enough right now that the alcoholic frozen drinks that they call "sloshies" around town hit the spot.  I can't even recount how many I consumed last week.  Our fav is at the Creekside Market on Cache St. just north of downtown.  "The Hound"...essentially just a frozen greyhound cocktail.

* Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.  Not necessarily kid friendly, but it's worth your time to stop in and take a look.  The bar seats are horse saddles, which I imagine the kids will get a kick out of.  Even Kanye had to sit in one of the seats recently while he was in town.  I spent most of the next day hungover after we met some strangers at dinner the night before and ending up playing pool here until God knows what time.

* Local Restaurant & Bar.  Great burger.

*  Snake River Brewing.  Surprisingly great food for a brewery.  

* Persephone Bakery.  This place is fantastic.  Great spot to grab a seat outside on their patio and enjoy a really good breakfast and coffee.  And I think there is a toy store across the street if I remember correctly.

*  There are a number of Thai places...4 or 5, I believe.  We went to Teton Tiger for lunch one day and loved it.  We heard good things about Teton Thai as well.

*  If you're in JH on Tuesday, go to the visitor center just north of downtown on Cache St. for "Talon Tuesday."  There is a bird rescue organization in town that does educational presentations that your kids would probably enjoy.  We didn't see them at the visitor center, but we did see them at Amangani on Friday night and it was fascinating.  Btw, Amangani.  WOW.  It's like $1k/night to stay there, but they'll let you drop in for drinks and food.  The view is amazing.

*  Take the gondola up to the restaurant in Teton Village.  Incredible view, and the kids should enjoy it.

* Dornan's Chuckwagon on the Snake River just outside the Teton National Park visitor center.  This is a really cool place.  It's the kind of breakfast and coffee situation that you would expect from a chuckwagon.  We weren't expecting it, but this was something we really enjoyed.

*  Not sure if your kids are old enough, but we went horseback riding just on the outside of Teton Village and enjoyed it.

 

There's so much else to do that I wouldn't stress about making a strict plan that you feel you have to stick to...it's such an incredible place that I really think you'll have a blast regardless of what you decide to do.  We didn't have much of a plan for our first 3-4 days there, and this was honestly one of the best vacations we've ever taken.

Have a blast! 

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Lots of great information above. We just got back from a week up in the Big Sky / Yellowstone area. The best advice I can give is get to Yellowstone early to avoid some of the crowds at the more popular sites.

 

We basically hit the inner loop in Yellowstone. Favorites were hiking the trails around the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, Grand Prismatic Spring (which has a nice boardwalk around the springs), Old Faithful (hit up the visitor's center), and Norris Geyser Basin trails. We did purchase Bear spray ($50), I'd recommend renting it from the vendors in the park as it will only cost you around $9-$10 if you return it unused. You can't fly home with it. (edit to add, if you aren't planning to get off the main trails you most likely don't need to carry bear spray......the crowds are very large and you probably won't see any wildlife of note).

 

We packed lunches which allowed us to get away from some if the crowds to eat. Definitely pack some water it can get hot during the afternoon down in the caldera. The photos below are from my phone, haven't had time to process what I took on the DSLR.

 

We did a whitewater raft trip on the Gallatin River which was one of the highlights of the trip, would definitely recommend. 391640e863d6714939bfb99e38a4c2fd.jpg2802fd691d9a39116785258fdab77140.jpgd73569029ef29c78554c5bffd37c44ab.jpga26775087833225828563eec2eafc881.jpg1ef3305f7dfe897030833c2bb207f608.jpg897449aacbaaba929d6e5b8de008167d.jpg0c1b682f30865dff8d15110f2bf4c906.jpg

 

e7ad8203ce00731e0b30604309236872.jpg

Edited by Irwin F Fletcher
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  • 3 weeks later...

So just got back Friday form Yellowstone and Jackson.  All I can say is that I have been many places in this world and taken many vacations that were great.  This is right up there.

Flew into Bozeman and rented a large SUV.  Stayed in a cabin West Yellowstone for the first part.  Which for me is roughing it, I don't camp.  Did the lower loop and the upper loop.  Did a full day of white water rafting on the Gallatin River. Stopped and did a few hikes with the kids saw some of the most incredible scenery.  Bison, Elk, Deer, etc.  It was a great drive and hike experience.  Drove from West Yellowstone to Jackson Hole through the park and the drive was some of the best scenery I have seen.  The Grand Tetons are a sight to behold.

Next we stayed in Jackson Hole.  Stayed in Teton Village in a condo, it was very nice.  Like a small master planned ski village.  Everything there is walking distance, the tram to the top for waffles was cool.  Gondola to the restaurant for drinks was cool.  Son and I took several mountain hikes.  We saw 2 bears on the mountain via the tram ride.  Drove to Jackson and did some shopping.  Saw a play in the playhouse of Cat Balou.  I highly recommend it if you like plays and or have kids.  It was a highlight.  Last day drove through the Tetons and it is was great.  Funny thing is we had not seen a moose the entire trip.  Kids were a little disappointed about that. Until we were parking at the condo and walking back to it and full grown female moose was eating off a tree 10 ft off our back patio.  It stayed for a few minutes, did not mind us and was a very cool.

Overall a great place to visit.  Pictures do not do any of this place justice.  You just can't understand the grandness and vastness of this place unless you experience it in person.  A tip.  If you pay the $35 to get the pass in to Yellowstone and show the receipt to the ranger at the Tetons instead of paying another $35 for that park, pay $45 and get a pass to all National Parks for a full year.  Found that out driving to the Jackson airport which is inside the park.

Oh and the Asian thing is real.  Holy shit the entire place is filled with them.  Buses etc.  Most of the stores in West Yellowstone cater to them.  And yes they will knock you right off the pathway to get around you.  

Edited by Moby Ric
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  • 9 months later...

Heading up to Teton/Yellowstone on June 1 for a week.  Great info on this thread and I'll try to remember to add more when I get back.  Going paragliding in Teton Village and going to get a lot of hikes in, but nothing too deep in the back country since the in laws are coming too.  

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There’s a turnoff on the road in Tetons that goes to a lake. There’s a marina there where some very rich people keep a boat slipped, but the place also rents canoes and kayaks. Go paddling around. 

I can’t be more descriptive, I just saw it as we drove by. 

It is very true that pictures do not capture the grandeur of the area.

I’m off the east gate, but if you aren’t intent on seeing the entire park don’t bother turning by the fishing bridge and heading towards that gate.  It is where the big fire was in the 80s and that is an interesting sight, but unless you allocate a week to explore then stay on the figure 8.  I happen to like the boardwalk in west thumb geyser basin.

Pack warm clothes. There may still be snow on the ground in places in early June. 

For those going in July or August, you might want to leave the park through the silver gate in cook city, Montana and head east on the beartooth highway to beartooth pass. 11,000 feet. Probably an hour each way, silver gate is up at Lamar valley. Look online to make sure it’s open, it’s only plowed for about 60 days a year. Any you could ski there in July if you wish. 

Edited by Pato del Muerto
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Safe and happy travels, Biff. If I recall, you do a fair amount of backpacking/camping. Shame you won't have a chance for that on this visit as the park is best enjoyed off the beaten path, in my opinion.

Hope the weather improves between now and then. I live about 2.5 hours SSW of the Park and it has been miserably cold and wet for a week. Currently raining here in town with a high of 52 degrees--I imagine it might be snowing inside the Park.

As always, don't forget to share pics!

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The snake is going to be moving soon. They got a ton of snow this winter. I would not be surprised if they stop rafts for a few days in June. 

My trip is planned from end of June until mid July in Jackson. Taking the newborn up there for the first time. I cannot wait to get out of the heat and humidity. 

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8 hours ago, Pato del Muerto said:

There’s a turnoff on the road in Tetons that goes to a lake. There’s a marina there where some very rich people keep a boat slipped, but the place also rents canoes and kayaks. Go paddling around. 

I can’t be more descriptive, I just saw it as we drove by. 

It is very true that pictures do not capture the grandeur of the area.

I’m off the east gate, but if you aren’t intent on seeing the entire park don’t bother turning by the fishing bridge and heading towards that gate.  It is where the big fire was in the 80s and that is an interesting sight, but unless you allocate a week to explore then stay on the figure 8.  I happen to like the boardwalk in west thumb geyser basin.

Pack warm clothes. There may still be snow on the ground in places in early June. 

For those going in July or August, you might want to leave the park through the silver gate in cook city, Montana and head east on the beartooth highway to beartooth pass. 11,000 feet. Probably an hour each way, silver gate is up at Lamar valley. Look online to make sure it’s open, it’s only plowed for about 60 days a year. Any you could ski there in July if you wish. 

Was hoping you would chime in.  Thanks.  

 

8 hours ago, Braff Zacklin said:

Safe and happy travels, Biff. If I recall, you do a fair amount of backpacking/camping. Shame you won't have a chance for that on this visit as the park is best enjoyed off the beaten path, in my opinion.

Hope the weather improves between now and then. I live about 2.5 hours SSW of the Park and it has been miserably cold and wet for a week. Currently raining here in town with a high of 52 degrees--I imagine it might be snowing inside the Park.

As always, don't forget to share pics!

Yep, I wish I could get deeper in, but also this is my first time so I'm happy to do all the touristy stuff, especially since I only have a week.  I'll make it back.  I've been keeping an eye on the weather and supposedly it's looking like 60s for highs and upper 30s for lows with under 50% rain chances each day so I'll take it for sure.  Regardless I'll be bringing all of my gear so if it rains and is cold, I'll deal.  Maybe it will keep some of the early season crowds away.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great thread with lots of info. appreciate everyone's info.

My Wife, 4 year old daughter, Mother in Law and myself are heading to Jackson August 8th for 8 days. Any suggestions on where to stay? We enjoy nice dinners and relaxing on a deck at night. We will of course have a rental car. Thoughts on an itinerary for us?

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Just now, Errestaurants said:

Great thread with lots of info. appreciate everyone's info.

My Wife, 4 year old daughter, Mother in Law and myself are heading to Jackson August 8th for 8 days. Any suggestions on where to stay? We enjoy nice dinners and relaxing on a deck at night. We will of course have a rental car. Thoughts on an itinerary for us?

Don't know about the rooms (we didn't stay there), but the food at Signal Mountain Lodge was great.  https://www.signalmountainlodge.com/  We ate dinner there 2-3 times the week we were up there.

 

It's a good location for being able to hit the Tetons as well as Yellowstone.  You're a long way away from Yellowstone if you stay in Jackson.  And since all you do is drive even when you're in the park, limiting the seat time can be a good thing.  Not as many options for dining out that way, though.  There's a great pizza place in Moose.  But most of the better restaurants will be in (or closer to) Jackson.

 

To put the distances in perspective, Jackson is 60 miles from the south entrance of Yellowstone, 100 miles from old Faithful and 150 miles from Mammoth.  And in the summer there will be traffic to deal with in the park.  Staying in the area of Signal Mountain Lodge cuts off 35 miles each way.

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16 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Don't know about the rooms (we didn't stay there), but the food at Signal Mountain Lodge was great.  https://www.signalmountainlodge.com/  We ate dinner there 2-3 times the week we were up there.

 

It's a good location for being able to hit the Tetons as well as Yellowstone.  You're a long way away from Yellowstone if you stay in Jackson.  And since all you do is drive even when you're in the park, limiting the seat time can be a good thing.  Not as many options for dining out that way, though.  There's a great pizza place in Moose.  But most of the better restaurants will be in (or closer to) Jackson.

 

To put the distances in perspective, Jackson is 60 miles from the south entrance of Yellowstone, 100 miles from old Faithful and 150 miles from Mammoth.  And in the summer there will be traffic to deal with in the park.  Staying in the area of Signal Mountain Lodge cuts off 35 miles each way.

Thanks Brother.

We like to stay in 2 bedroom 2 bath homes/condos, etc. allows us to put our daughter to bed but we all get to still hangout versus being in separate hotel rooms.

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2 hours ago, Errestaurants said:

My Wife, 4 year old daughter, Mother in Law and myself are heading to Jackson August 8th for 8 days. Any suggestions on where to stay? We enjoy nice dinners and relaxing on a deck at night. We will of course have a rental car. Thoughts on an itinerary for us?

Recommend visiting the National Museum of Wildlife Art. Maybe a leisurely stroll around Jenny Lake up to Hidden Falls/Inspiration Point. There are lots of guided whitewater trips on the Snake, and by the time you're there in August, flows will be much gentler than they are now.

Fishing the Gros Ventre is a blast, even if you're not catching anything. Depending on your comfort/activity level, you could shuttle up one of the slopes for some downhill bike riding, or rent some gravel bikes and ride the roads and paths inside Grand Teton National Park.

If you're an aviation buff, the Warbird Airplane Museum at the Teton Aviation Center on the other side of Teton Pass in Driggs, Idaho, is a nice little secret. There aren't too many places you can check out a MiG up close.

Of course, simply driving around the area for some sightseeing is always time well spent.

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It's worth a short trip off the highway to Yellowstone, just outside Jackson, to see the Mormon Row old barns.  It's best in the morning for shots like this (not by me):

Edit to clarify: as you leave Jackson to go to Yellowstone, about a half hour outside of town, past Blacktail Butte, there is a turnoff to the right to these cabins.  Watch out for wildlife.

 

14485_1266_Mormon_Row_Wyoming_lg.jpg

 

Barns_grand_tetons.jpg

 

Mormon-Row-Barn-Panorama-1-Version-2.jpg

Edited by miguelito
everyone likes tetons
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1 hour ago, Kennythetiger said:

@DefinitelyNotHollywoodColt may have some suggestions.  

funny timing...headed up that way to fish with a guide buddy on the Henry's Fork this weekend. He works out of a shop in Driggs but doesn't head over to Jackson much but I know his shop has guides over there. I'll ask him if he has any recs.

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Used to go to Jackson every year.  I have not been in years, so info may be dated.  My go to eats were breakfast at the Bunnery and dinner at Teton Thai, Snake River Grill or Billy's (which I think closed).  All decent food for a small town, but nothing you really need to go out of your way for.  

On the way out of town to go fishing or hiking each morning, would generally pick up a sandwich at Creekside Deli and throw that in a cooler for lunch.

I don't have good fishing guide recs, but if you want a few suggestions of spots to try by yourself then PM me.  I'm no expert, but there are a few spots I have had good luck in the past.  

 

 

  

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