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Not new, not classic, semi-old shitbox car thread

blacklab

By blacklab
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TwiceHorn

TwiceHorn 31699

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, USCATX said:

I love a good shitbox convo.  What about an S2000?  You could probably get a driver grade higher mileage one for mid teens and that transmission is about the sweetest shifting piece on god’s green earth.  Nothing ever broke on the one I had and consumables like brakes and tires are very inexpensive. 
 

You could also get a 2.0 manual trans Cadillac ATS in the mid teens.  I’ve only driven a V but it’s a very competent chassis if a little boring on the motor.  
 

If you’re city parking it then I’d avoid anything that you see in street takeover vids.  The G35/37 is the king in those other than Chargers and Challengers.  

For a shitbox car, the 2.0T is not at all boring.  Certainly not compared to the other shitbox cars we're talking about. 275HP/295Tq.  However, I am skeptical of the long-term, high-mileage reliability of the engine.  Not so much because it's GM, but because I am skeptical of all of the current series of 2.0T.  They are pretty over-engineered to get away from the no-torque and low output except at redline of say the spicier Honda four-bangers.

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Pescado_Rojo

Pescado_Rojo 19454

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On 9/14/2024 at 11:00 PM, SurlyGator said:

This is essentially exactly what I did, and I got bit in the ass on one detail.  2018 RDX Advance, 42,xxx miles.  The online details put out by the dealership said it had Apple CarPlay, which was one of the must haves in my mind.  I didn't discover until driving off the lot that Acura RDX's started getting Apple CarPlay in 2019.  I have complained to the dealership, but I'm not holding my breath on that resulting in anything.  A local car stereo place said they can install a kit that will give me everything for $1,400 installed.  Looks like I will be living without Apple CarPlay.  I am not gruntled.

Did you ever get this resolved? My girlfriend has a 2018 MDX and it's got wired carplay. Did you try pluging in a usb cable? 

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SurlyGator

SurlyGator 911

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On 9/14/2024 at 11:00 PM, SurlyGator said:

This is essentially exactly what I did, and I got bit in the ass on one detail.  2018 RDX Advance, 42,xxx miles.  The online details put out by the dealership said it had Apple CarPlay, which was one of the must haves in my mind.  I didn't discover until driving off the lot that Acura RDX's started getting Apple CarPlay in 2019.  I have complained to the dealership, but I'm not holding my breath on that resulting in anything.  A local car stereo place said they can install a kit that will give me everything for $1,400 installed.  Looks like I will be living without Apple CarPlay.  I am not gruntled.

 

On 10/7/2024 at 2:43 PM, Pescado_Rojo said:

Might check with these guys. I'm half-ass looking at a Lexus RC-F that doesn't have carplay, and their Lexus integration is highly recommended. 

Acura Carplay integration

 

On 10/11/2024 at 3:39 PM, ChickenSandwich said:

Are they reputable?  Would love to upgrade my 2018 4 runner to car play

Update:  after some emails back and forth with these guys, I decided to pull the trigger.  They are currently running a 10% discount with a code, so I'm in for a hair under $500.  For installation, they said they have had good success with Geek Squad for 8 years.  I did an online chat with Geek Squad, and they said they could do it and quoted me $129.99 for installation.  Time will tell if this proves to be worth it or a massive shit storm.

On 10/28/2024 at 6:17 AM, locodos said:

These UVA guys got you..

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-GUdWBC3ZneT/

Crutchfield does not sell any type of add-on Apple CarPlay/Android Auto module.

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ChickenSandwich

ChickenSandwich 9856

Posted
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1 minute ago, SurlyGator said:

 

 

Update:  after some emails back and forth with these guys, I decided to pull the trigger.  They are currently running a 10% discount with a code, so I'm in for a hair under $500.  For installation, they said they have had good success with Geek Squad for 8 years.  I did an online chat with Geek Squad, and they said they could do it and quoted me $129.99 for installation.  Time will tell if this proves to be worth it or a massive shit storm.

Crutchfield does not sell any type of add-on Apple CarPlay/Android Auto module.

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SurlyGator

SurlyGator 911

Posted
Posted
On 10/30/2024 at 4:36 PM, SurlyGator said:

 

 

Update:  after some emails back and forth with these guys, I decided to pull the trigger.  They are currently running a 10% discount with a code, so I'm in for a hair under $500.  For installation, they said they have had good success with Geek Squad for 8 years.  I did an online chat with Geek Squad, and they said they could do it and quoted me $129.99 for installation.  Time will tell if this proves to be worth it or a massive shit storm.

Update update:  Just got home from Best Buy/Geek Squad.  Installed without any major issues.  It has the option to connect via Bluetooth or USB (a USB-A female wire is now sticking out on the passenger side next to the glove box - I think I can tuck it essentially out of sight if I end up never using it.  When paired via Bluetooth and set to Auto Pair, the screen immediately shows Apple CarPlay as soon as I start the car.  The main menu gives a screen mirroring option that makes me wonder if it could show video with the associated audio coming through the speakers.  The audio all comes through the Aux input, so all other options are still available.

Downsides - so far I haven't been able to bring the OEM navigation up on the screen, but that is not a problem since I prefer Waze/Google Maps/Apple Maps.  Also, the buttons on the steering wheel to answer and hang up on a phone call do not appear to work, but its not an issue to do it with the CarPlay controls the same way you do everything else.

Road trip Sunday and Monday for a college visit for my 17 year old daughter (no pics), will report more after some real world experience.  So far, I am quite gruntled - well worth the $500 for the unit and $150 installation in my mind.

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Brisketexan

Brisketexan 105626

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Posted

So, our foster refugee kid was driving my old 2012 Hyundai Sonata.  It only had about 40k miles on its new engine.  Some gal broadsided him, and due to the age and mileage of the car, insurance will total it.  Trying to decide between two options:

1) Take the money offered, then buy it back at its damaged value, and repair it and keep it under a salvage title (it only needs a new door and quarterpanel).  We know that it's mechanically sound and has been taken care of with maintenance etc.  And it's hard to find a good reliable cheap used car.  It has something like 140k miles.  Bit of a pain to do the whole pay me and I buy it back and repair it process, and will have a salvage title, but it's a daily driver, not an investment.

2) A friend is selling a 2013 Chevy Equinox with 170k miles.  Will need to dig into it more, but it's been their car the whole time, they've maintained it well, etc.  We'd get it checked out, but presume no mechanical issues at the moment.  Can probably get it for just a bit more than we'll get back from insurance on my Sonata.

He's 16, he needs safe and reliable wheels to get back and forth to school and soccer.  Maybe to get him up to his first year of college in a couple of years.

 

Any big thoughts on those options?

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texasdago

texasdago 7594

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On 1/31/2024 at 6:56 PM, blacklab said:

I have an FJ cruiser. I love it and will probably never get rid of it. But it's not great for long highway drives.

Planning on taking mine up to Taos... haven't gone further than 3-4 hours in the FJ.  Going to be interesting.  Its a 2007 with less than 110,000 miles so as long as it gets a clean bill of health, I guess its fine.  Mileage sucks, though.

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blacklab

blacklab 11999

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1 hour ago, texasdago said:

Planning on taking mine up to Taos... haven't gone further than 3-4 hours in the FJ.  Going to be interesting.  Its a 2007 with less than 110,000 miles so as long as it gets a clean bill of health, I guess its fine.  Mileage sucks, though.

I drove mine from Austin to New Mexico and back. It sucks on the long stretches of west Texas. Set the cruise at 75 and it was continuously downshifting, had to set the cruise lower.

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texasdago

texasdago 7594

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8 minutes ago, blacklab said:

I drove mine from Austin to New Mexico and back. It sucks on the long stretches of west Texas. Set the cruise at 75 and it was continuously downshifting, had to set the cruise lower.

Well that sounds like it will be pleasant.  

I'll be taking the Austin > Winters > Lubbock > Clovis > Ft Sumner > Santa Rosa > Taos route.  I'm sure anything uphill will suck, not to mention the crosswinds on the way to Clines Corners.

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blacklab

blacklab 11999

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7pm last Wednesday, going south on Mopac over Town Lake, light traffic, turned my head to check for cars to get into right lane to exit on Bee Cave road, looked back and car was stopped in my lane. Swerved to get over and hit the front left of my car to back right of hers. Still wondering how/why the fuck they came to a complete stop, there were only a few cars on the bridge. The only thing I can think of is the car ahead of her brake checked her.

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Jerry Callo

Jerry Callo 8836

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41 minutes ago, texasdago said:

I'll be taking the Austin > Winters > Lubbock > Clovis > Ft Sumner > Santa Rosa > Taos route.  I'm sure anything uphill will suck, not to mention the crosswinds on the way to Clines Corners.

Last trip to Santa Fe we didn't turn north at Ft. Sumner, but instead proceeded on to Vaughn and got on 285 to SF.  Avoided I-40 all together - I hate that stretch of I-40.

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texasdago

texasdago 7594

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1 hour ago, Jerry Callo said:

Last trip to Santa Fe we didn't turn north at Ft. Sumner, but instead proceeded on to Vaughn and got on 285 to SF.  Avoided I-40 all together - I hate that stretch of I-40.

Yeah, I'll have to think about it. I'm such a creature of habit on that drive that I almost always take the same exact path

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RDCanecutter

RDCanecutter 26561

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8 hours ago, Brisketexan said:

1) Take the money offered, then buy it back at its damaged value, and repair it and keep it under a salvage title (it only needs a new door and quarterpanel).  We know that it's mechanically sound and has been taken care of with maintenance etc.  And it's hard to find a good reliable cheap used car.  It has something like 140k miles.  Bit of a pain to do the whole pay me and I buy it back and repair it process, and will have a salvage title, but it's a daily driver, not an investment.

#1 all the way. It's the plan with the fewest moving parts and is direct and simple. (For max funkiness, don't even repaint the replacement door or quarterpanel.) This car has saved a life and deserves to live, and will gratefully give you 300,000 miles if you believe in it.

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AUinHsv

AUinHsv 580

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17 hours ago, Brisketexan said:

So, our foster refugee kid was driving my old 2012 Hyundai Sonata.  It only had about 40k miles on its new engine.  Some gal broadsided him, and due to the age and mileage of the car, insurance will total it.  Trying to decide between two options:

1) Take the money offered, then buy it back at its damaged value, and repair it and keep it under a salvage title (it only needs a new door and quarterpanel).  We know that it's mechanically sound and has been taken care of with maintenance etc.  And it's hard to find a good reliable cheap used car.  It has something like 140k miles.  Bit of a pain to do the whole pay me and I buy it back and repair it process, and will have a salvage title, but it's a daily driver, not an investment.

2) A friend is selling a 2013 Chevy Equinox with 170k miles.  Will need to dig into it more, but it's been their car the whole time, they've maintained it well, etc.  We'd get it checked out, but presume no mechanical issues at the moment.  Can probably get it for just a bit more than we'll get back from insurance on my Sonata.

He's 16, he needs safe and reliable wheels to get back and forth to school and soccer.  Maybe to get him up to his first year of college in a couple of years.

 

Any big thoughts on those options?

Totally avoid number 1.  You probably are aware that salvage titles make it difficult to get rid of later on. Also your insurance may not work.

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Jerry Callo

Jerry Callo 8836

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2 hours ago, AUinHsv said:

Totally avoid number 1.  You probably are aware that salvage titles make it difficult to get rid of later on. Also your insurance may not work.

I tend to agree.  You never really know what was damaged in an accident unless you pull the entire thing apart.  If the airbags deployed, it can get quiet expensive to put back together.

We bought a vehicle back that was totaled due to hail damage, but that scenario is much different - no change in title, no change in ability to get insurance, etc.  Used about $500 to repair the dents on the hood and its still in use.

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SurlyGator

SurlyGator 911

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/8/2024 at 5:26 PM, SurlyGator said:

Update update:  Just got home from Best Buy/Geek Squad.  Installed without any major issues.  It has the option to connect via Bluetooth or USB (a USB-A female wire is now sticking out on the passenger side next to the glove box - I think I can tuck it essentially out of sight if I end up never using it.  When paired via Bluetooth and set to Auto Pair, the screen immediately shows Apple CarPlay as soon as I start the car.  The main menu gives a screen mirroring option that makes me wonder if it could show video with the associated audio coming through the speakers.  The audio all comes through the Aux input, so all other options are still available.

Downsides - so far I haven't been able to bring the OEM navigation up on the screen, but that is not a problem since I prefer Waze/Google Maps/Apple Maps.  Also, the buttons on the steering wheel to answer and hang up on a phone call do not appear to work, but its not an issue to do it with the CarPlay controls the same way you do everything else.

Road trip Sunday and Monday for a college visit for my 17 year old daughter (no pics), will report more after some real world experience.  So far, I am quite gruntled - well worth the $500 for the unit and $150 installation in my mind.

I could have sworn I had posted an interim update after this one, but I guess not.  Well, yesterday afternoon I had the unit uninstalled and have started the process to (hopefully - not holding my breath) get a refund.  Here are the downsides I discovered since this last update:

1.  Both AM and FM radio no longer worked, for some reason.  The buttons were still on the screen, but pushing them didn't do anything

2.  I couldn't figure out any way to get the factory screen to show anything other than the Apple CarPlay interface UI.  This is an issue, because the car uses that screen for adjusting just about everything adjustable on the car.

3.  This was really the deal killer for me - the new unit was always electrically hot.  I had no idea for the first week or so, until the battery was dead one morning.  Discovered the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity was always there when within range while the car was off.  Happened multiple times, the battery tested OK.  Ended up having to hook up to a battery charger every evening and leaving it overnight for the better part of a week before I could get it uninstalled.

4.  This just sealed my decision - absolute radio silence from the seller to address any of these technical issues.  They were more than happy to answer questions prior to sale, but since then?  Nada.

The tech at Best Buy/Geek Squad that did the uninstall (not the same guy that put it in) told me if he had been the tech assigned to the install he wouldn't have done it.  They always see some sort of issue, either right away or not too long down the road.  Chalking this one up to a caveat emptor lesson for me.  I put the chances at even a partial refund in the single digits.

 

EDIT:  Right after posting this, I decided to try their online chat feature on their website to see if I could get a response when they thought there might be another sale on the hook.  Their website is down.  FML.

Edited by SurlyGator
FML
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Sam Lin

Sam Lin 3566

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Specific for Carplay/AAuto into newer BMW, look at mr12volt. They're the only one to use the fiber optic MOST bus for audio instead of the aux input, better sound quality. I've put them in CIC, and NBT cars and they work great. (That covers all BMW about 2007-2017.)

2018 and newer you can just add the wifi antenna and have someone code the Carplay on, no need to "buy" the option from BMW.

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