Slim Mount for the frame TV issue

[immamac 42,889]

So we got a 75” The Frame TV. It has a slim mount that isn’t vesa and it comes in 2 pieces. Unlike any sane vesa one piece where you can find studs anywhere along the mount these have a fairly substantial gap between them and don’t extend beyond the predetermined points in the tv. This is generally a non issue since the panel itself is so light (sub 65lb) all the guts are down below in a different box so usually toggles where you can’t hit a stud are fine.

The wall we want to mount this on is not drywall it’s 1/4 inch wood paneling (maybe even 1/8). 

standard 16” stud spacing. The 2 mount points for the hanging of the tv are 39.5” apart. We hit neither stud on my prelim measurements of centering the TV on the wall and the room which is pretty important for the aesthetic. See pics below. TV is planned to be centered with beam and turntable console.

Any ideas on how to get this done? Do I just take down one of the panels and add a horizontal stud all the way across and secure to that then put the panels back over? I don’t think they sell any other slim mounts compatible with this that are one piece across. 

adding on top of the paneling is out of the question since that would ruin the whole aesthetic of it actually looking like a framed picture the majority of the time (this is not going to be a theater setup/TV not the focal point of room for those who want to say this is a shit TV and who cares bla bla, think of it as a 70lb painting) 

 

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

2 minutes ago, immamac said:

Do I just take down one of the panels and add a horizontal stud all the way across and secure to that then put the panels back over

Yes exactly 

[immamac 42,889]

Just now, Pato del Muerto said:

Yes exactly 

Fuck. 

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

3 minutes ago, immamac said:

Fuck. 

Or if it won’t mess up the aesthetic and the studs are close enough, run a 1x4 on the outside of the panel that secured to the studs and mount it to that. 

[immamac 42,889]

I think that extra 1/4” will make the picture effect not flush and make it angled. 

[boilerhorn 1,398]

This might be better than pulling off all of the paneling, but maybe not.  Marginally better than the 1x4 option above and still violates the "adding on top of the paneling" comment from before.

I know of one example where someone used a 1/2" piece of plywood.  Cut the plywood large enough to where it keeps the TV level, but is not visible.

Attach the plywood to the studs and then use a similar toggle bolt solution that you would for a drywall hang - but through the plywood (and paneling).  It will sit off the wall 1/2 inch, but it will only be apparent when you walk up to the wall - given where you'll be putting it in that room.  Still definitely not flush, but somewhat better than a 1x4 frame.  However, you might be able to get a customized frame/bezel that extends further toward the wall than normal.

Did a quick internet search (which I am sure you did, too) and realize that's where the above example was borrowed from.

[immamac 42,889]

I mean taking the paneling down doesn’t seem too terrible if done carefully. It’s not like drywall fragile and crumbles. Just a lot more work than it needs to be because of some really incredibly strange design decisions from Samsung. 

Will keep updated and show results. 

[Updawg 2,285]

Shiplap the entire wall

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

3 minutes ago, Updawg said:

Shiplap the entire wall

[immamac 42,889]

3 minutes ago, Updawg said:

Shiplap the entire wall

This would have made this fucking easy. 

[boilerhorn 1,398]

50 minutes ago, immamac said:

This would have made this fucking easy. 

If you are going to pull the paneling...  Might as well.

[Handcruser 2,805]

Just run an exterior stud and be done with it. Nobody will ever see it.

[immamac 42,889]

29 minutes ago, Handcruser said:

Just run an exterior stud and be done with it. Nobody will ever see it.

The issue isn't the seeing it part, the issue is that the TV is supposed to be flush with the wall and doing this makes it not only not flush, but angled.

I know it's a TV, but in this "use case" it's actually a portrait/painting. If it was a TV I'd get a VESA mount and just mount it like normal. there are 4 studs across the back of the TV it's normal stud spacing. 

[Homercles 10,206]

We’ve got a couple of Frames, and yeah those two-piece mounts are way different…but a huge part of why you pay a premium for them.  They’re also nerve wracking trying to snap the tv into/out of.  

So there are absolutely no studs that’d cross behind any of the holes in either mount?  I assume your stud finder works on wood paneling and you double checked by measuring 16” centers starting from that outlet box down there (whichever side the stud is on).

What’s behind that paneling…anything?  Pop the cover off that outlet to see if you can verify how thick it is and what, if anything, is behind it.  

As you noted, the tv itself isn’t that heavy since all the guts are in the OneConnect breakout box.  If that paneling is actually mounted to studs securely, I’d like to think a gang of good toggles would work…but obviously having at least one mount hit a stud would be peace of mind  

The best anchors I’ve seen are WingIts, though they require using a special 3/4” bit to put the hole (don’t use a spade bit on that nice wood).  

Otherwise, per usual, best reply is the first:  get serious by running a 2x4 horizontally and call it a day.  

[immamac 42,889]

7 minutes ago, Homercles said:

We’ve got a couple of Frames, and yeah those two-piece mounts are way different…but a huge part of why you pay a premium for them.  They’re also nerve wracking trying to snap the tv into/out of.  

So there are absolutely no studs that’d cross behind any of the holes in either mount?  I assume your stud finder works on wood paneling and you double checked by measuring 16” centers starting from that outlet box down there (whichever side the stud is on).

What’s behind that paneling…anything?  Pop the cover off that outlet to see if you can verify how thick it is and what, if anything, is behind it.  

As you noted, the tv itself isn’t that heavy since all the guts are in the OneConnect breakout box.  If that paneling is actually mounted to studs securely, I’d like to think a gang of good toggles would work…but obviously having at least one mount hit a stud would be peace of mind  

The best anchors I’ve seen are WingIts, though they require using a special 3/4” bit to put the hole (don’t use a spade bit on that nice wood).  

Otherwise, per usual, best reply is the first:  get serious by running a 2x4 horizontally and call it a day.  

There’s nothing behind the panels I’ve checked. I won’t know if I can hit a stud until it gets here. I taped the studs out. You can see what I mean those mounts are improperly sized for a 75” TV it specifically doesn’t math for a 75”. The centerline basically begins between two studs and 6-7 inches either way is the beginning of the mount so it misses both inside studs then the outside studs are 16” from those so they are just outside the bracket. This has to be the fucking dumbest design in the history of ever for a standard 16” spacing and only making the fucking brackets 12” and spacing them 38” apart. It’s literally mathed to miss the god damned studs  

[Homercles 10,206]

It’ll come with a paper template so you can absolutely be sure.  But yeah these things are full of compromises, and I was ready to nuke Samsung when one of ours had to be sent in for service at only 6 months old…getting the bitch in/out of those metal u-brackets is scary when you can’t really reach back there.  

Provided no miracles you’ve got 3 choices:  ass ton of good toggles, take wall apart to run a 2x4 behind the paneling, or cut a strip of 3/4” plywood to run on top of the paneling and just live with it being a little proud.  

Upside to taking the wall apart is it’ll make it much easier to run that wire behind there to the breakout box so you can hide it.  

[immamac 42,889]

20 minutes ago, Homercles said:

It’ll come with a paper template so you can absolutely be sure.  But yeah these things are full of compromises, and I was ready to nuke Samsung when one of ours had to be sent in for service at only 6 months old…getting the bitch in/out of those metal u-brackets is scary when you can’t really reach back there.  

Provided no miracles you’ve got 3 choices:  ass ton of good toggles, take wall apart to run a 2x4 behind the paneling, or cut a strip of 3/4” plywood to run on top of the paneling and just live with it being a little proud.  

Upside to taking the wall apart is it’ll make it much easier to run that wire behind there to the breakout box so you can hide it.  

what about something like this https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adapter-Extender-Accessory-MLEB/dp/B002TKS0S8 or these and use them as extenders to the mount? to hit all 4 studs with 8 screws? (all weight on studs + fasteners to extenders)

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adapter-Extender-Accessory-MLEB/dp/B002TKS0S8

https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Brackets-Savener-Stainless-Furniture/dp/B0BYJMGWB9

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Straight-Brackets-Furniture-Bookcase/dp/B099KC5M8R

[Homercles 10,206]

“Frequently returned item”…worth a shot I guess.  Order em and when the tv shows up, see if it works.  

For what it’s worth, I’d rather do that than go all-anchors.  Don’t trust that, but also have young kids that find new failure modes to expose all the time. 

[immamac 42,889]

25 minutes ago, Homercles said:

“Frequently returned item”…worth a shot I guess.  Order em and when the tv shows up, see if it works.  

For what it’s worth, I’d rather do that than go all-anchors.  Don’t trust that, but also have young kids that find new failure modes to expose all the time. 

Yeah I think instead of plywood I can just do 14/12 gauge steel as a span as well and just drill through it. Thoughts @Pato del Muerto

[immamac 42,889]

Example of stud placement in wall and my issue that I screenshotted from an install video and drew where my stud spacing is. 

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

45 minutes ago, immamac said:

Yeah I think instead of plywood I can just do 14/12 gauge steel as a span as well and just drill through it. Thoughts @Pato del Muerto

Interesting. With toggle bolts?

[immamac 42,889]

5 minutes ago, Pato del Muerto said:

Interesting. With toggle bolts?

Yeah, but anchor the plate into studs on one or both sides. Since it’s substantially thinner and I can get away with a 16” x 4” x (.10” or .078”) piece of steel spanning across the studs. Toggle bolt through it and the paneling and the mount. I think that’s acceptable from an offset and hardly noticeable. 

the other way is to just kind of extend the one side closest to the stud and load bearing and not span the studs. That’s cheaper, but idk if it’ll actually hold. At this point spending $100 bucks in materials is way better than ripping down the paneling. 

[Dbeasy 15,077]

Stop acting poor. Re-do the wall. Take out the panels and replace with something that’s not from the 1970’s. Jeesh. 

[immamac 42,889]

21 minutes ago, Dbeasy said:

Stop acting poor. Re-do the wall. Take out the panels and replace with something that’s not from the 1970’s. Jeesh. 

The entire point is the 1970s vibe. There is also a woman involved and she is very anti removing the paneling because reasons that aren’t even clear to me. 

[Homercles 10,206]

Come on, asbestos is good for you

[uoftorange 1,386]

Cut the wall, install boards horizontally in btw the vertical studs, nail the side back over.  A circular saw pull up with a shallow cut is probably the best option

I wouldn't do any other way, but I would bitch about it the entire time I was doing it.  It's just the best way and eliminates any issues.  Personally I'd install a partial 2X4 vertically, then cap it with the horizontal so you have plenty of support.  Costs 10 in wood to do it right.

Edited April 14 by uoftorange

[immamac 42,889]

20 minutes ago, uoftorange said:

Cut the wall, install boards horizontally in btw the vertical studs, nail the side back over.  A circular saw pull up with a shallow cut is probably the best option

I wouldn't do any other way, but I would bitch about it the entire time I was doing it.  It's just the best way and eliminates any issues.  Personally I'd install a partial 2X4 vertically, then cap it with the horizontal so you have plenty of support.  Costs 10 in wood to do it right.

Why the actual fuck would I do that when I could take the full panel off and just put it back on after adding the horizontals lol. It’s not drywall it will just come off the hole sheet it’s just attached with fastening nails into the studs 

[uoftorange 1,386]

3 minutes ago, immamac said:

Why the actual fuck would I do that when I could take the full panel off and just put it back on after adding the horizontals lol. It’s not drywall it will just come off the hole sheet it’s just attached with fastening nails into the studs 

Yeah, full panel off works as well.  Honestly didn't read the entire thread just skimmed.  I can see it's paneling, but figured there was a reason you couldn't take it off, otherwise seems really simple to just pull them off and go.  Still would cap it that way to make it work well

[immamac 42,889]

45 minutes ago, uoftorange said:

Yeah, full panel off works as well.  Honestly didn't read the entire thread just skimmed.  I can see it's paneling, but figured there was a reason you couldn't take it off, otherwise seems really simple to just pull them off and go.  Still would cap it that way to make it work well

Yeah this is definitely the right thing to do. My wife works from home otherwise I’d just do it while she was not here. 

[Bevo 13,592]

7 hours ago, immamac said:

The entire point is the 1970s vibe. There is also a woman involved and she is very anti removing the paneling because reasons that aren’t even clear to me. 

Listen, @Dbeasy is correct. Even with a 70s vibe, there are ways to redo that room that are cool. I'm not gay, but even I can tell that ain't cool.

I'm sorry to be the one to have to tell you but you are going to have to show her who the man is. Put your foot down. I can guarantee that you outweigh her.

Or go with a 32" CRT with some rabbit ears and give that a go.

 

Edited April 14 by Bevo

[immamac 42,889]

Just now, Bevo said:

Listen, @Dbeasy is correct. Even with a 70s vibe, there are ways to redo that room that are cool. I'm not gay, but even I can tell that ain't cool.

I'm sorry to be the one to have to tell you but you are going to have to show her who the man is. Put your foot down. I can guarantee that you outweigh her.

 

you are not wrong. 

[Bevo 13,592]

1 minute ago, immamac said:

you are not wrong. 

Perhaps, but don't take my advice.

[Homercles 10,206]

9 hours ago, immamac said:

The entire point is the 1970s vibe. There is also a woman involved and she is very anti removing the paneling because reasons that aren’t even clear to me. 

Probably because she expects all kinds of dick-waving confidence until she hears a sharp crack, a loud curse, and comes into the room as you stare at a long crack in the panel.  There’s always that one nail that’s a total cast iron bitch 

Edited April 15 by Homercles

[LosIllini 91]

I was fortunate when I installed my 55" Frame in my office- was able to hit two studs with 3" deck screws, and used a FlipToggle Toggle Bolt Anchor in drywall for a third point. 

One thing about your picture above w the blue lines drawn in, that I can't tell w/o seeing the exact measurements (and, hence, that may be the whole point).  The flat mounts that attach to the wall, don't have to be symmetric to center, as long as the sliding receiver brackets match up to the width of the mounts on the back of the tv- which according to my template is 38.5" for a 75" tv.  So, you could potentially move them over left and right to hit a stud (and not be centered/ symmetrical), and slide the receiver brackets to compensate/ get to the 38.5".

Another thing I did (though it likely makes no difference, is bought some plastic flex conduit at homedepot to wrap the power/ video cable in).  And, last comment- try puttinging the brackets together before mounting the tv, to make sure they 'snap' in place and fully seat.  Neighbor had a heck of a time, and finally had to wide the receivers a bit w a screwdriver.  Good Luck!

[immamac 42,889]

1 hour ago, LosIllini said:

I was fortunate when I installed my 55" Frame in my office- was able to hit two studs with 3" deck screws, and used a FlipToggle Toggle Bolt Anchor in drywall for a third point. 

One thing about your picture above w the blue lines drawn in, that I can't tell w/o seeing the exact measurements (and, hence, that may be the whole point).  The flat mounts that attach to the wall, don't have to be symmetric to center, as long as the sliding receiver brackets match up to the width of the mounts on the back of the tv- which according to my template is 38.5" for a 75" tv.  So, you could potentially move them over left and right to hit a stud (and not be centered/ symmetrical), and slide the receiver brackets to compensate/ get to the 38.5".

Another thing I did (though it likely makes no difference, is bought some plastic flex conduit at homedepot to wrap the power/ video cable in).  And, last comment- try puttinging the brackets together before mounting the tv, to make sure they 'snap' in place and fully seat.  Neighbor had a heck of a time, and finally had to wide the receivers a bit w a screwdriver.  Good Luck!

great tips, thanks. Yeah the example is that the brackets are missing the studs, I wasn't aware that the receiver brackets slide, the looked fixed, it would make a ton of sense if they slid, cuz then they would do exactly what you are saying with no issue. Tomorrow is the big day, I'll update this thread one way or another on the results!

[LosIllini 91]

Yes- the receiver brackets do slide--- so that gives you movement anywhere along the track.  The 38.5" was from the 2021-23 models, so it looks like they may have tweaked the dims a bit wider for 2024 (these are the widest left/ right screws, not the 4 vesa pattern mounts).

When you get it on the wall, the brackets should click down and seat, and the upper portion of the tv should be flat on the wall when the magnets engage.  So, if it is tilting down, you need to make sure it's fully seated- then it will click into place.  I think they provided some sort of plastic spacers that are optional and will cause a gap--- i didn't need to use them.  You'll enjoy the set--- and, much easier install than having to run electrical/ hdmi cables.

 

FWIW- for those interested in a flat install for a non-Frame tv, i've had good luck w/ this mount in mine and my parents houses.  Not as clean as the Frame, but, way closer/ flatter to the wall than the typical mounts we all already have.   

https://www.amazon.com/ynVISION-DESIGN-Bracket-Compatible-Samsung-2021-2023/dp/B0C3SCVP5T/

 

[LosIllini 91]

Dammit- total brainfart- i'll take my beating now.  Just checked my tv.  I was positive that when I put the Frame up, the bracket slid horizontally, the same as the aftermarket mount.  But, alas, it's static--- you have to move the whole brackets.   Boo. 

The aftermarket one I linked has the sliders.  I still had the issue w/ the Frame where studs weren't 16" apart, so, the install wasn't symmetric.  But, i was able to get it to work.

Apologies!

[immamac 42,889]

4 minutes ago, LosIllini said:

Dammit- total brainfart- i'll take my beating now.  Just checked my tv.  I was positive that when I put the Frame up, the bracket slid horizontally, the same as the aftermarket mount.  But, alas, it's static--- you have to move the whole brackets.   Boo. 

The aftermarket one I linked has the sliders.  I still had the issue w/ the Frame where studs weren't 16" apart, so, the install wasn't symmetric.  But, i was able to get it to work.

Apologies!

Yeah it’s usually not an issue if you have a normal wall because toggle bolts are fine on any reasonable drywall. My issue is that I fear the 1/8” wood paneling won’t have enough strength to hold the 70ish lbs. I think running some 14/12 gauge steel will suffice spanning the studs there’s no way that won’t hold 70lbs. 

[immamac 42,889]

They delivered this. 

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

Awesome update.  Did you hang the mounting bracket?

[boilerhorn 1,398]

That really sucks, @immamac.  What a pain.

[immamac 42,889]

Silver lining. Got another from Best Buy in bee cave for a crazy deal and the install guy I hired to help me is gonna pick it up with some steel flat bar from Home Depot on the way tomorrow. 

All measured up with the template from the broken one. 

studs in blue under template. Spanning the studs where there is no hit with the steel and toggle bolting through mount steel and paneling should hold. 

[Bevo 13,592]

17 hours ago, immamac said:

Silver lining. Got another from Best Buy in bee cave for a crazy deal and the install guy I hired to help me is gonna pick it up with some steel flat bar from Home Depot on the way tomorrow. 

All measured up with the template from the broken one. 

studs in blue under template. Spanning the studs where there is no hit with the steel and toggle bolting through mount steel and paneling should hold. 

 

That looks like one of the brackets I own. Doesn't it allow for a pretty much unlimited number of screws? You could place a screw or two on each shiplap and that thing isn't coming down.

[orange dream 1,255]

23 hours ago, immamac said:

Hang it just like that and I bet no one ever says a word about your mounting technique.

[immamac 42,889]

It’s mounted. Got an aluminum plate  secured it to 3 studs spanning 36 inches  then mounted through it with toggle bolts and got into the stud on the right side mount proper as well as through the metal flat bar. We tried to pull it down and it’s not budging. 

Still gotta do a few things to clean up the final look like putting the wires in the cracks and tightening them, but here’s a few shots of what we did and final result. 

 

[Bevo 13,592]

1 hour ago, immamac said:

It’s mounted. Got an aluminum plate  secured it to 3 studs spanning 36 inches  then mounted through it with toggle bolts and got into the stud on the right side mount proper as well as through the metal flat bar. We tried to pull it down and it’s not budging. 

Still gotta do a few things to clean up the final look like putting the wires in the cracks and tightening them, but here’s a few shots of what we did and final result. 

 

 

Now for the rest of the room. Maybe she will go for a Longhorn sports bar theme.

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

I guess a hole saw to hide the wiring behind the paneling wasn’t on the order?

[Bevo 13,592]

15 minutes ago, Pato del Muerto said:

I guess a hole saw to hide the wiring behind the paneling wasn’t on the order?

 

I could drill a 2" hole in 30 seconds and put on a cover plate in another 30. 1 minute tops and she wouldn't even know it happened.

[immamac 42,889]

Was in a rush left the tidying up to the wife. The wires hide in the slots very well. 

[Pato del Muerto 52,552]

Additional opinions- lose the ficus, solid job hanging the runners in line with the tv, buffet/cabinet is choice.