Lawn Care - Take All Root Rot

[Post Oak 20213]

My St. Augustine got wiped out by TARR last year.  I've let my neighbors Bermuda creep over and fill in.  

I still have some bare patches of dirt where nothing wants to grow. I'm *assuming* that's because the TARR is still in the soil.  Could be wrong.

What kind of fungicide should I use to deal with the TARR.  

Thx.

[Mother mopar 3318]

@cactusflinthead

[cactusflinthead 27598]

E-615-Take-all-root-rot-factsheet.pdf

I'll add more info later 

[Post Oak 20213]

Thanks 

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Here's another link. Wolfpack includes the combos. Some of these can be mixed at home and some are not available to homeowners.

https://turf.ces.ncsu.edu/take-all-root-rot-in-turf/#:~:text=Overview,for golf course putting greens.

"Maintain soil at pH 5.5 to 6.0 on intensively managed St. Augustinegrass lawns. To reduce the risk of disease, apply no more than 10 to 20 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet of turf per season. Use acid-forming fertilizers on sites with near-neutral to alkaline soils (pH 7.0+) to lower the soil pH. Topdressing with sphagnum peat moss has proven to aid in the recovery of take-all damaged St. Augustinegrass lawns. Evenly distribute 1 bale of sphagnum peat moss per 1000 feet2 of lawn."

https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/take-all-root-rot-on-st-augustinegrass/

It likes high pH. There's a lot of alkaline soil in Texas. Unless you are in the Piney Woods you are not likely to achieve a 6. My last soil test in the Frisco/McKinney area was a 7.75. The rec was 4# of sulfur per thousand. 

There's some evidence that suggests that peat moss inhibits the disease. One bale per thousand is pretty cheap. It's worth the investment. 

There's no consensus on remedies. Hence the laundry list of options. It was only described and named a disease in the 90s though there's evidence of outbreaks in buffalograss in Kansas described in 43. Back then it was called "the yellows". 

You might have to curtail pre-emergent or limit it to the coldest, sleepiest time of the year. Post spray doesn't seem to be detrimental. 

I had a pathology prof at a field day downplay its threat to StA. I tuned out at that point. "Why don't you get out of the lab and stop trying to control all the variables. Get out there in the field and see what it's doing."

 

[SimonBolivar 10958]

Holy yellow spots batman! 

Is it possible that the weed and feed that I laid out back on March 20th could be messing up my grass today? Everything was going great until the storms rolled through this weekend and we got a ton of rain. 

 

It's hard to see because it's mostly behind the column but it looks significantly worse off than the houses on either side of me.

 

 

 

Here is the specific Weed & Feed I used:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Post Oak 20213]

22 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

Here's another link. Wolfpack includes the combos. Some of these can be mixed at home and some are not available to homeowners.

https://turf.ces.ncsu.edu/take-all-root-rot-in-turf/#:~:text=Overview,for golf course putting greens.

"Maintain soil at pH 5.5 to 6.0 on intensively managed St. Augustinegrass lawns. To reduce the risk of disease, apply no more than 10 to 20 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet of turf per season. Use acid-forming fertilizers on sites with near-neutral to alkaline soils (pH 7.0+) to lower the soil pH. Topdressing with sphagnum peat moss has proven to aid in the recovery of take-all damaged St. Augustinegrass lawns. Evenly distribute 1 bale of sphagnum peat moss per 1000 feet2 of lawn."

https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/take-all-root-rot-on-st-augustinegrass/

It likes high pH. There's a lot of alkaline soil in Texas. Unless you are in the Piney Woods you are not likely to achieve a 6. My last soil test in the Frisco/McKinney area was a 7.75. The rec was 4# of sulfur per thousand. 

There's some evidence that suggests that peat moss inhibits the disease. One bale per thousand is pretty cheap. It's worth the investment. 

There's no consensus on remedies. Hence the laundry list of options. It was only described and named a disease in the 90s though there's evidence of outbreaks in buffalograss in Kansas described in 43. Back then it was called "the yellows". 

You might have to curtail pre-emergent or limit it to the coldest, sleepiest time of the year. Post spray doesn't seem to be detrimental. 

I had a pathology prof at a field day downplay its threat to StA. I tuned out at that point. "Why don't you get out of the lab and stop trying to control all the variables. Get out there in the field and see what it's doing."

 

Thanks cactus. I appreciate it.  

[cactusflinthead 27598]

4 hours ago, SimonBolivar said:

Holy yellow spots batman! 

Is it possible that the weed and feed that I laid out back on March 20th could be messing up my grass today? Everything was going great until the storms rolled through this weekend and we got a ton of rain. 

 

It's hard to see because it's mostly behind the column but it looks significantly worse off than the houses on either side of me.

 

 

 

Here is the specific Weed & Feed I used:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2, 4-D, 2-ethylhexyl ester 1.108% Mecoprop-p acid 0.167% Dicamba acid 0.071%

I had to go look at the specs. That's the active ingredients list. It's the same as regular 3 way post herbicide. 2,4-D, mecoprop, and dicamba. It's not going to root prune like the pre. It looks like you cut more than a third of the height and got into the stems.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

On 5/1/2024 at 2:43 PM, SimonBolivar said:

Holy yellow spots batman! 

Is it possible that the weed and feed that I laid out back on March 20th could be messing up my grass today? Everything was going great until the storms rolled through this weekend and we got a ton of rain. 

 

It's hard to see because it's mostly behind the column but it looks significantly worse off than the houses on either side of me.

 

 

 

Here is the specific Weed & Feed I used:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Has it greened up any since the last mowing?